Changing Diff fluid

jtpedersen

Caught the Bug
Also is it beneficial to clean out the housing with brake clean? I've seen some videos of people doing that

Hi,

I do. It is amazing, even with only 35K on the clock, how much you will flush out. Also, flushing may help release any captured shavings/material/what-have-you into the drain pan, that you'd like to see in the event something's going on.

I used an entire can flushing it out at the same time I changed my diff cover. After 15-30 it will have completely flashed off and you'll be good to add fluids.

 
Hi,

I do. It is amazing, even with only 35K on the clock, how much you will flush out. Also, flushing may help release any captured shavings/material/what-have-you into the drain pan, that you'd like to see in the event something's going on.

I used an entire can flushing it out at the same time I changed my diff cover. After 15-30 it will have completely flashed off and you'll be good to add fluids.


Any recommendations on new diff covers? I'd like to do front and rear and something a little stronger to protect my new 5.13's haha


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kawimoto

Member
Bump on this question, I'm gonna do the fluid change tomorrow morning and want to make sure this is okay to use


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yes that's fine to use. just don't want synth if your running an arb locker, but im assuming your running a factory elocker. youll be fine with that. I run 85w 140 in my rearend due to the lower 5:13 gearset but nothing wrong with that recommendation.
 

DMF

Active Member
I think you need some thick gear like 85w 140. Thats what ORE used when I had my gears replaced.
 

kawimoto

Member
As far as covers go, depends on how much you wanna spend. I run a pr44 up front and it comes standard with their nodular iron diff cover. But dynatrac sells them online for around 160$ for factory d44 housings. I personally run a ruffstuff d44 diff cover due to it being cheap and hd. Paid 100$ and it's 3/8" plate steel welded inside and out IMG_1282.jpg IMG_1305.JPG


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jknikos

Member
I saw my manual and it says to use 80/90, which is not synthetic, but this is for stock 3.21 gears. I have a sport with no lsd. My question is now that I run 4.56 gears do I need to change the viscosity or it doesnt matter? :thinking:
 
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