Ball Joint Replacement - Anything Else?

BaddestCross

Active Member
So I'm gonna tackle replacing the ball joints this week for the first time. Any tips on making it go smoothly? Any specific specialty tools I should have on hand besides the press?

While I have everything apart, should I replace anything else as a preventative measure?

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 

tgoss

New member
As long as you have a decent press just take your time. Pretty straight forward.

Check your unit bearings and see if those need some attention, would be a perfect time to replace those too.
 

VeruGE*144

Caught the Bug
I used a 2' breaker bar on the press, and a 2' pry bar wedged between the end forging and the press to stop it form spinning.
When I did mine he only thing I replaced was ball joints and one side abs sensor because I broke it.
You you might want to reach behind the frame to disconnect he sensors and pull the wire with the hub, rather than trying to take the sensors out the hub, they always break.
 

VeruGE*144

Caught the Bug
Make sure you have the angled adapter for you ball joint press. You'll need to press either top or bottom in straight, I forgot which one
 
J

JKDream

Guest
So I'm gonna tackle replacing the ball joints this week for the first time. Any tips on making it go smoothly? Any specific specialty tools I should have on hand besides the press?

While I have everything apart, should I replace anything else as a preventative measure?

--
[Sent from the WAYALIFE mobile app]

Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407

Just make sure you clean up the bore before installing them.
Some fine grit sandpaper works well.
Also they do not take a ton of torque to press in.
If you have to use a ton of effort to get them to press in, stop and realign the stud/press.
I ran into this a couple weeks ago installing a set of Synergys with a friend, the stud bottomed out on the press, and we didn't notice.
It ended up shearing into two :crazyeyes: thankfully they replaced it under warranty.
 

WJCO

Meme King
Make sure you have an angled adapter to press the upper in. Use antiseize on new joints. As far as pulling sensor wires, if you leave the sensor attached to the unit bearing, you can move it off to the side together and set it on a box or something, just slide the backing plate somewhere where it won't get bent. This is if you pull the unit bearing off of the axle. Some people leave the unit bearing and axle together which will require the sensor to be disconnected.
 
J

JKDream

Guest
Leave tire on. Jack up that side. Grab tire/wheel at 12oclock and 6oclock and attempt to rock it. It should not rock nor have any play. If it does, bearing is bad.
I always found this method to be quite hard to diagnose unless the bearing is REALLY worn. The tire flexing will make it hard to see. You should really be using a dial indicator. Just a heads up.

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WJCO

Meme King
I always found this method to be quite hard to diagnose unless the bearing is REALLY worn. The tire flexing will make it hard to see. You should really be using a dial indicator. Just a heads up.

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I've always had good luck with it because it can be felt more than seen. If it's good, the tire tends to move with the vehicle and there is no 'click' that can be felt. If you can feel the 'click/play,' the bearing is toast.
 
J

JKDream

Guest
I've always had good luck with it because it can be felt more than seen. If it's good, the tire tends to move with the vehicle and there is no 'click' that can be felt. If you can feel the 'click/play,' the bearing is toast.

Interesting, never thought it of that way. Learned something new :thumb:
 

Flat Top

Member
As long as you have a decent press just take your time. Pretty straight forward.

Check your unit bearings and see if those need some attention, would be a perfect time to replace those too.

+1, This does NOT INCLUDE Harbor Freight. Just rent one from O'Reilly, AutoZone, etc.
 

BaddestCross

Active Member
Leave tire on. Jack up that side. Grab tire/wheel at 12oclock and 6oclock and attempt to rock it. It should not rock nor have any play. If it does, bearing is bad.
Thanks. I'll check it out when I get home tonight.
To add to this turn the wheel 90* and check again. Be thorough.


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Good idea. Thanks! 👍
+1, This does NOT INCLUDE Harbor Freight. Just rent one from O'Reilly, AutoZone, etc.
Lol. Yeah, already trying to track one down at my local shops. 😎

I haven't gone and reread the write-up on the job yet. Am I going to need the large (1 1/8”?) socket for this procedure?

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 

jeeeep

Hooked
if you use orielly, they offer a 4wd ball joint press kit and a second kit that has longer press cups.
I forget the numbers but get them both.
the shafts on the ball joints tend to be longer than the press cups in the 4wd kit.
as mentioned in a previous post, you don't want to risk bottoming out the ball joint shaft or you'll ruin it.
you shouldn't need to stack a bunch of pieces together to make it work.
 
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