Covering my bases before I order

desertrunner

Active Member
So after months of making extensive excel sheets and saving I think I have finally come up with the option that is going to work best for me. Just wanted to run it by you guys and make sure I'm not missing anything.

Due to my current and future lift size I am going to go with the standard geometry PR44 with ARB, 4.88, prosteers, 1/2" tubes and just the dynatrac shaft kit (unless there is a better alternative front shaft? I didn't do too much digging on that one)
Last thing to figure out in the front for me is what yoke to order, whether I can use a stock flange for the time being or not.

In the rear I'm going to go with revolution 35 spline shafts (cheaper than dynatracs and I have heard good things about their warranty) revolution 4.88s plus their timken overhaul kit. And a ARB 35 spline locker. Which I believe is the RD109?? might be the RD147 I need to get clarification on that too. I plan on just getting ARBs smallest compressor for the lockers which i believe is the CKSA12 since I already have a power plant to air up tires.

Is there anything obvious I'm missing or something I may be overlooking that I could do better? A little bit more context I am running 4dr springs on 33s currently and plan on in the end running essentially the 3" enforcer but with the 2" plush rides and spacers in the rear on 37s

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WJCO

Meme King
I'm running the Dynatrac shafts, they've been fine so far. You are correct on that model compressor, it's the simplest. I would suggest upgrading the yoke now, as you will likely need a new driveshaft in the future when you do your lift. Might as well have Dynatrac do the labor for regarding the yoke.
 

desertrunner

Active Member
I'm running the Dynatrac shafts, they've been fine so far. You are correct on that model compressor, it's the simplest. I would suggest upgrading the yoke now, as you will likely need a new driveshaft in the future when you do your lift. Might as well have Dynatrac do the labor for regarding the yoke.
Sweet good to know
Yeah my thought on the yoke was since I'm only on 1" lift and stock shocks right now I can get away with the stock drove shaft for now, but I will likely be adding longer shocks in when I do the swap so I was going to see what kind of droop I can get before my stock shaft hits the exhaust and measure for new shocks. If I can't gain much more droop than I already have then going with a new DS is a no brainer but if I can run say a 3" lift shock and still clear the stock shaft then why replace it.

Not quite sure where the threshold is for the 2dr if I run the 2" plush rides and a 3" lift shock if that will clear the front drive shaft or not, I just haven't measured yet.
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aermotor

Member
What spline are you going in the front, 32? Depending on that there are different options. The Dynatrac shafts are awesome but aren't cheap, I might recommend Ten Factory's instead.

If you are running a Rubicon rear axle you will need the ARB #RD147. If you are running the Sport, I think your first part # is right.
 

desertrunner

Active Member
What spline are you going in the front, 32? Depending on that there are different options. The Dynatrac shafts are awesome but aren't cheap, I might recommend Ten Factory's instead.

If you are running a Rubicon rear axle you will need the ARB #RD147. If you are running the Sport, I think your first part # is right.
Looks like the quote from dynatrac says they are 30 spline inner and 32 spline outer 4340 cromo shafts.
Is there a 35 spline shaft in the front I'm missing? Northridge has an option for a 35 spline ARB when you build it on their site (no clue if that's right or not though)

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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
You can run 35 spline but if I recall, only with the ARB and RCV shafts. I've run that setup in the past but don't know how much it's really needed. While I did replace my factory driver side shaft due to a bearing cap falling off, I ran my passenger shaft for 80,000 until I finally decided to upgrade both and still carry it for a spare.
 

WJCO

Meme King
Looks like the quote from dynatrac says they are 30 spline inner and 32 spline outer 4340 cromo shafts.
Is there a 35 spline shaft in the front I'm missing? Northridge has an option for a 35 spline ARB when you build it on their site (no clue if that's right or not though)

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You can run 35 spline but if I recall, only with the ARB and RCV shafts. I've run that setup in the past but don't know how much it's really needed. While I did replace my factory driver side shaft due to a bearing cap falling off, I ran my passenger shaft for 80,000 until I finally decided to upgrade both and still carry it for a spare.

Regarding the front, if you go 35 spline, it's either RCVs or G2 Chromies with ujoints. However, after seeing MYBADJK's break recently and look wollowed out, I myself wouldn't touch the G2s. I think a couple other guys here have run them with no issues.
 

desertrunner

Active Member
Yeah running RCVs doesn't sound appealing to me. I would rather run a U joint shaft. Looks like the Ten Factory ones are also 30 spline 4340 cromo and would save me like $200 over the dynatracs. Is there a reason to go with 1 over the other? Having dynatrac just build it with all their parts sounds convenient but if they are the same quality then no need to spend more than I have to.



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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Yeah running RCVs doesn't sound appealing to me. I would rather run a U joint shaft. Looks like the Ten Factory ones are also 30 spline 4340 cromo and would save me like $200 over the dynatracs. Is there a reason to go with 1 over the other? Having dynatrac just build it with all their parts sounds convenient but if they are the same quality then no need to spend more than I have to.

For the most part, any shaft with full circle clips should get the job done. A lot of guys are running Ten here and to the best of my knowledge, without any problems.
 

WJCO

Meme King
Having dynatrac just build it with all their parts sounds convenient ......

This was my primary reason for using their axle shafts. Second reason was knowing Dynatrac really pays attention to quality so I figured their shafts would be a good decision. Being that I got new wheel ends because my axle was custom, when the axle was delivered, the shafts were installed already and everything. No brainer for me.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
This was my primary reason for using their axle shafts. Second reason was knowing Dynatrac really pays attention to quality so I figured their shafts would be a good decision. Being that I got new wheel ends because my axle was custom, when the axle was delivered, the shafts were installed already and everything. No brainer for me.

There is something to be said about just bolting up an axle right out of the box. Also, Dynatrac shafts are made in the USA if that matters.
 

WJCO

Meme King
When looking at the arb site the 147 was for 3.73 and down gear ratio and the 109 was for the 3.92 and up. I know there is a difference with the thick vs thin ring gear but I though that was only in front?

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I know you guys are discussing the rear axle, however, I'm going to throw this out there in the event someone stumbles across this thread:

Untitled.jpg

I noticed when I received my axle, the ARB locker manual in the crate said that the locker installed was for 3.73 and down whereas I had ordered 4.56 gears. It scared the shit out of me. Luckily Dynatrac had the info above on their website. So if anyone else gets a little worried that their ProRock44 comes with a 3.73 and down carrier, it is normal for the ProRock regardless of your gear ratio.
 

desertrunner

Active Member
I know you guys are discussing the rear axle, however, I'm going to throw this out there in the event someone stumbles across this thread:

View attachment 271127

I noticed when I received my axle, the ARB locker manual in the crate said that the locker installed was for 3.73 and down whereas I had ordered 4.56 gears. It scared the shit out of me. Luckily Dynatrac had the info above on their website. So if anyone else gets a little worried that their ProRock44 comes with a 3.73 and down carrier, it is normal for the ProRock regardless of your gear ratio.
Ahh I knew I read that somewhere I just couldn't remember where!
So looks like that's just for the front ARB and I should still order the 3.92 and up ARB for the rear

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Exodus 4x4

New member
Regarding the front, if you go 35 spline, it's either RCVs or G2 Chromies with ujoints. However, after seeing MYBADJK's break recently and look wollowed out, I myself wouldn't touch the G2s. I think a couple other guys here have run them with no issues.

Nitro also makes 35 spline shafts for the front.


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