zimm
Caught the Bug
After 6 months of researching, I pulled the trigger on the PSC hydraulic ram steering for my 2015 wrangler. Here are some pics and my install notes.
View attachment 275105
I had an EVO drag link flip, and learned that the bracket won't work with the steering ram, so it was removed it. I had the stock track bar bracket cut off, and a Synergy weld-in track bar bracket put in. It includes the tabs for the ram. http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-J...-Track-Bar-Bracket-2.5-Axle-Tube-p-25185.html
Install note- the bigger "tab" goes on top, not the bottom. We figured that out after we cut and welded it in. Oh well.
I followed Havok offload's youtube video that covered most of the steps, except they didn't use an oil cooler.
Removed airbox and stock steering pump. Bolted in the new pump and put belt back on. Then the reservoir. Don't cut the 3/4" feed line to size for the pump until you test fit the airbox first. First try was too short, luckily the hose I cut off was longer and I used that. You don't need the pictured clamps either.
View attachment 275104
For the reservoir, I had to rotozip some plastic out of the way to make room for the mounting bracket to slide under the airbox mount. Mount loosely and don't tighten the lines until you test fit the air box.
View attachment 275106
Next was to remove the steering box. For $31, I bought a new pitman arm, just in case. First drop the track bar. I tried pulling the drag link, no luck. The rented a "heavy duty" pitman arm puller that didn't work either, even after some BFH time and a torch. I did notice after I gave up on the pitman arm, the drag link had popped out from all the hammering. Score! Use a 7mm allen key in the top to hold the stud and remove nut. I followed Eddie's advice and removed 3 of the 4 steering box bolts. Loosen the 4th. I removed the fender liner for better access. 13mm bolt for the steering coupler. 18mm for the high pressure fittings. Drop the box out. The new box went up and in without an issue. Putting the pitman arm on first gave me a nice "handle" to get the box into place. An 18mm gear wrench was awesome for the steering box bolts.
View attachment 275108
Next pull the grill, drill 2 holes, and bolt in the oil cooler.
View attachment 275109
PSC gave me a handful of nice AN fittings, but I couldn't figure out how to use them between the steering box and cooler. I cut the factory return line just behind the driver's side fog light, used the brass barb fitting, and got the 3/8" line up to the grill. Barbed fitting on the cooler to complete. I cut out the old factory hard line.
I did use the AN-8 fittings to go from the cooler to the reservoir.
Next up is mounting the ram. Because of the currie 1.5" tie rod, I had issues with the clamp location. With the ends of the ram threaded all the way in, the clamp wanted to be right on the bend in the bar. I lengthened the rod ends about half of the usable thread and the clamp found a section of the bend that was straight enough to sit down nice. I'd rather have the clamp on the straight part of the bar, but it won't work for me. Maybe if the welded on tabs were further to the passenger side.
View attachment 275110
For the high pressure lines, I set the axle at full droop and mocked up the lines, giving an extra couple of inches of flex room. The fittings installed easily with a vice, wrenches, and cut off wheel. Make sure to blow out the lines after cutting, a big black cloud of rubber dust came out after each cut.
View attachment 275111
The hardest part of my install was putting the factory airbox back in. I didn't want to cut out holes in it and let water in. What worked was silicone lube on the studs and rubber grommets, all my body weight in the airbox, and jamming it into place. It took an hour, but everything "fits". I don't care that the reservoir is pushing in on the plastic airbox, at least it's air tight.
View attachment 275112
While bleeding the system, I got to the part where I start the engine for 30 seconds. I went back to the front and there's 1/2 quart of fluid everywhere! It took a lot of time to clean up. I got out my flashlight and used the remote start to fire the engine to see where the leak was. Nothing. Hmm.... I went back to turning the steering wheel lock to lock and got another huge mess. Turns out it was the breather in the top of the reservoir lid. I had the tank full and when turning, it was shooting out the top! I installed the nylon line and ran it back into an empty bottle to catch the overflow.
I did a 5 miles test drive and I'm happy. It's real quick turning the wheel off centerline, I'll have to get used to that. But no feedback from the tires and 75mph was problem-free.
I got home and the cooler fitting had a slight seep, I tightened it, and it should be good to go. I'll report more as I drive it.
Total install time was 11 hours, counting a trip to auto zone to return the useless pitman arm puller and clean up time for my bleeding oil messes.
View attachment 275113
View attachment 275105
I had an EVO drag link flip, and learned that the bracket won't work with the steering ram, so it was removed it. I had the stock track bar bracket cut off, and a Synergy weld-in track bar bracket put in. It includes the tabs for the ram. http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-J...-Track-Bar-Bracket-2.5-Axle-Tube-p-25185.html
Install note- the bigger "tab" goes on top, not the bottom. We figured that out after we cut and welded it in. Oh well.
I followed Havok offload's youtube video that covered most of the steps, except they didn't use an oil cooler.
Removed airbox and stock steering pump. Bolted in the new pump and put belt back on. Then the reservoir. Don't cut the 3/4" feed line to size for the pump until you test fit the airbox first. First try was too short, luckily the hose I cut off was longer and I used that. You don't need the pictured clamps either.
View attachment 275104
For the reservoir, I had to rotozip some plastic out of the way to make room for the mounting bracket to slide under the airbox mount. Mount loosely and don't tighten the lines until you test fit the air box.
View attachment 275106
Next was to remove the steering box. For $31, I bought a new pitman arm, just in case. First drop the track bar. I tried pulling the drag link, no luck. The rented a "heavy duty" pitman arm puller that didn't work either, even after some BFH time and a torch. I did notice after I gave up on the pitman arm, the drag link had popped out from all the hammering. Score! Use a 7mm allen key in the top to hold the stud and remove nut. I followed Eddie's advice and removed 3 of the 4 steering box bolts. Loosen the 4th. I removed the fender liner for better access. 13mm bolt for the steering coupler. 18mm for the high pressure fittings. Drop the box out. The new box went up and in without an issue. Putting the pitman arm on first gave me a nice "handle" to get the box into place. An 18mm gear wrench was awesome for the steering box bolts.
View attachment 275108
Next pull the grill, drill 2 holes, and bolt in the oil cooler.
View attachment 275109
PSC gave me a handful of nice AN fittings, but I couldn't figure out how to use them between the steering box and cooler. I cut the factory return line just behind the driver's side fog light, used the brass barb fitting, and got the 3/8" line up to the grill. Barbed fitting on the cooler to complete. I cut out the old factory hard line.
I did use the AN-8 fittings to go from the cooler to the reservoir.
Next up is mounting the ram. Because of the currie 1.5" tie rod, I had issues with the clamp location. With the ends of the ram threaded all the way in, the clamp wanted to be right on the bend in the bar. I lengthened the rod ends about half of the usable thread and the clamp found a section of the bend that was straight enough to sit down nice. I'd rather have the clamp on the straight part of the bar, but it won't work for me. Maybe if the welded on tabs were further to the passenger side.
View attachment 275110
For the high pressure lines, I set the axle at full droop and mocked up the lines, giving an extra couple of inches of flex room. The fittings installed easily with a vice, wrenches, and cut off wheel. Make sure to blow out the lines after cutting, a big black cloud of rubber dust came out after each cut.
View attachment 275111
The hardest part of my install was putting the factory airbox back in. I didn't want to cut out holes in it and let water in. What worked was silicone lube on the studs and rubber grommets, all my body weight in the airbox, and jamming it into place. It took an hour, but everything "fits". I don't care that the reservoir is pushing in on the plastic airbox, at least it's air tight.
View attachment 275112
While bleeding the system, I got to the part where I start the engine for 30 seconds. I went back to the front and there's 1/2 quart of fluid everywhere! It took a lot of time to clean up. I got out my flashlight and used the remote start to fire the engine to see where the leak was. Nothing. Hmm.... I went back to turning the steering wheel lock to lock and got another huge mess. Turns out it was the breather in the top of the reservoir lid. I had the tank full and when turning, it was shooting out the top! I installed the nylon line and ran it back into an empty bottle to catch the overflow.
I did a 5 miles test drive and I'm happy. It's real quick turning the wheel off centerline, I'll have to get used to that. But no feedback from the tires and 75mph was problem-free.
I got home and the cooler fitting had a slight seep, I tightened it, and it should be good to go. I'll report more as I drive it.
Total install time was 11 hours, counting a trip to auto zone to return the useless pitman arm puller and clean up time for my bleeding oil messes.
View attachment 275113
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