Castle nut/cotter pin

Slimebones

Slimebones

Active Member
Just putting this out there. Often wondered if I should use factory castle nut on ball joints as opposed to nylock nuts. When castle nuts are torqued to spec and slot does not line up with hole in shaft of ball joint, if you loosen nut to align it is too loose. If you tighten to align with next slot, it is too tight. Seems to me if you just use a nylock nut set to proper torque spec, you would be better off. Must be a good reason factory uses the slotted nut though. I know there are a lot of knowledgeable people out here and was just wondering about your thoughts on this and which is the best alternative.
 
JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
Slimebones said:
Just putting this out there. Often wondered if I should use factory castle nut on ball joints as opposed to nylock nuts. When castle nuts are torqued to spec and slot does not line up with hole in shaft of ball joint, if you loosen nut to align it is too loose. If you tighten to align with next slot, it is too tight. Seems to me if you just use a nylock nut set to proper torque spec, you would be better off. Must be a good reason factory uses the slotted nut though. I know there are a lot of knowledgeable people out here and was just wondering about your thoughts on this and which is the best alternative.
Click to expand...

I thought this too, when I did my pro steers I had to tighten the shit out of them to get the cotter pin in


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jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
all instructions I've read where a castle nut is used indicate to tighten to the next open slot in the castle nut for the cotter pin.

you really shouldn't be more than 1 slot off to the cotter pin hole once you get it to torque

To help me know where the hole is, I start the castle nut then draw a paint mark on the threads below the castle nut that align with the hole.

Once I get to torque I use the mark to check how close I am to the next slot/open hole.

a nylon lock nut wouldn't last long give the amount of shock ball joints take.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
If you check your nuts regularly :shock: , you'll likely be fine with either. But castle nuts provide one extra feature to keep from loosening that other nuts don't. For ball joints, I feel better about castle nuts.
 
Jeepy

Jeepy

New member
You're suppose to torque to spec then line up your cotter pin hole. You're only slightly over torque and obviously not suppose to loosen to line up. You'll be just fine giving it that little extra.

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