Re gear question

EvaTheJeep

New member
If 37s run like 35s mounted do I need to re gear? I’m fine with waiting to re gear for a 35” tire but don’t want the problems a more true 37 could bring. I’m referring to what I’ve seen about the bfg all terrain ko2 37s.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Clutch

Caught the Bug
Well if you ask that question, I’d ask why pay for 37s (the bfg’s) if you’re only getting 35’s (the comparable size of the 37 bfg’s)?

Why not just find 37” tires that measure out to be about the same size as a competitor’s 37?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

wjtstudios

Hooked
My 37 BFG mud spare with 0 miles on carrier measures around 36.25-36.5. Mounted with 7 k miles on them measure 35.5 at 27 psi. I’m not exactly sure how this compares to the ATs. But to answer your question if you stay is the BFG family there is a solid 2” difference and regearing from 4:10 to atleast 4:88 is recommended. The other big consideration is the weight difference between the 35 & 37. The 37s eat stock axle parts.
Hope this helps!


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

EvaTheJeep

New member
My 37 BFG mud spare with 0 miles on carrier measures around 36.25-36.5. Mounted with 7 k miles on them measure 35.5 at 27 psi. I’m not exactly sure how this compares to the ATs. But to answer your question if you stay is the BFG family there is a solid 2” difference and regearing from 4:10 to atleast 4:88 is recommended. The other big consideration is the weight difference between the 35 & 37. The 37s eat stock axle parts.
Hope this helps!


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Okay thanks. I’m thinking I’m gunna run the 35s and upgrade the gears and axles overtime so when I can finally go with 37s I got a lot less to worry about


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

EvaTheJeep

New member
Well if you ask that question, I’d ask why pay for 37s (the bfg’s) if you’re only getting 35’s (the comparable size of the 37 bfg’s)?

Why not just find 37” tires that measure out to be about the same size as a competitor’s 37?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

I’ve just been pretty convinced of how well they perform on and off road. I’d love to just run a mud tire but I can’t because it’s also my daily driver. If you have and good recommendations for a solid on and off road tire mud or not I’d love to hear them I’m still making up my mind on a good tire


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

jeeeep

Hooked
you understand very few tires are actually what their stated size is? close but not exact.

I wonder how many people go to a lumber yard asking for a 2x4 and rejecting them all because they're not exactly 2x4

if you're running stock D44 axles I'd do 4.88 for reliability (IMO works well with 35& 37's), lot of guys also run 5.13 but you lose the ability to lock out OD on hills/ freeway (RPM climb too high).
The R&P are also thinner and more at risk to failure.

with the 3.6L 4.88 seem to work really well, I've only driven one newer Jeep, automatic with 35's and 4.88 gears and it was impressive.

I have a 2010 3.8L, 4.88s PR44 front, stock D44 rear, BFG KO2 37's w/beadlocks it's held up well, still get decent mileage and I can lockout OD as needed without worrying about RPMs climbing too high.
When I put the 35's on it's got a little more go than the with the 37s, but not enough to make me want to install 5.13 gears
 

Clutch

Caught the Bug
Toto RT is a good hybrid. My jeep is a daily with 27mi drive each way on 35” Trail Grapplers on beadlocks. It drives fine, I wouldn’t even be worried for my wife to drive it. If you like mud tires, I wouldn’t be scared about running them on a DD.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

EvaTheJeep

New member
you understand very few tires are actually what their stated size is? close but not exact.

I wonder how many people go to a lumber yard asking for a 2x4 and rejecting them all because they're not exactly 2x4

if you're running stock D44 axles I'd do 4.88 for reliability (IMO works well with 35& 37's), lot of guys also run 5.13 but you lose the ability to lock out OD on hills/ freeway (RPM climb too high).
The R&P are also thinner and more at risk to failure.

with the 3.6L 4.88 seem to work really well, I've only driven one newer Jeep, automatic with 35's and 4.88 gears and it was impressive.

I have a 2010 3.8L, 4.88s PR44 front, stock D44 rear, BFG KO2 37's w/beadlocks it's held up well, still get decent mileage and I can lockout OD as needed without worrying about RPMs climbing too high.
When I put the 35's on it's got a little more go than the with the 37s, but not enough to make me want to install 5.13 gears

I understand no tires a true to size. I also have heard things about the ko2’s running a little smaller then the majority of brands so I’ve just been trying to figure out people’s opinion on them who’ve had experience. I didn’t know that you lose the o/d with 5.13s and that’s really useful so thanks for all the information.

I have a 2008 3.8L with stock axles and 3.73 gears (I plan to re gear in the future but not for a few months) , I’ve replaced my drag link and tie rod because my old ones were crap. I also have a 3.5 inch lift so I could technically accommodate a larger tire, but then again the Jeep has a decent amount of miles on it so I’m thinking I might just run with the 35” Ko2’s to avoid running into problems with old knuckles and ball joints because just because there’s room for them I know I can’t just throw 37’s under there.

Since you own the 37” ko2’s what would you recommend? Should I go with 35’s or could I go with the 37s you have. Sorry for the long post but thanks for your time!


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Top Bottom