PR44 hydro assist bracket and steering stab options

desertrunner · Nov 26, 2017

Looking for a little help on the best course of action to take here. So the trail leader package I ordered comes with a PR44 that has a hydro assist bracket and no tab to mount a steering stabilizer. Since I am only on 1.75" of lift and don't have a drag link flip my drag link is not clearing the hydro bracket. I have come up with a few options for that and for my steering stabilizer but just wanted to get some second opinions.

So I could just adjust my steering stops out so far that I don't turn enough to make the drag link contact the bracket. But by doing that I lose just over a half turn of the wheel and this is how much my steer stop would have to come out. That seems a bit excessive. So my thought is to just cut it off and if I ever go hydro assist in the future deal with it then.

This is the drag link hitting the bracket at full left turn

Now in regards to the steering stabilizer I came up with 3 possible options.

1 leave it off and don't run one

2 only cut off part of the hydro bracket and drill a new hole to mount the steering stab on it. The issue I have there is by mounting it parallel to the tie rod it blocks the track bar bolt so I would have to take it off any time I need to mess with the track bar. (Not the end of the world but annoying)

3 mount the steering stab in the upper hole of the raised track bar bracket that I am not using right now. Keeps it nice and high and out of the way BUT is mounted at an angle so not sure if it needs to be parallel to the tie rod and axle or not? If I mount it at that angle am I just going to bend it right away?

Option 2

Option 3

Any thoughts, advise, and opinions are welcome!

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Speedy_RCW · Nov 26, 2017

I say cut it off and don’t run a steering stabilizer. If you’re set up properly you won’t need the stabilizer.

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QuicksilverJK · Nov 26, 2017

That last picture sure looks like a drag link flip wouldn't be a bad option. Relatively inexpensive, and you wouldn't be hacking apart that pretty new axle. Also keeping that bracket for down the road when you decide to go hydro. Until then you can use it for your stabilizer.

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Ddays · Nov 26, 2017

If you're not gonna run the hydro setup i'd cut the brackets off. Those two tabs are really simple mounts to install later on if you did decide to go hydro. If you went with a taller lift you'd probably need a raised track bar mount as well so that whole existing trackbar bracket would end up needing replaced so you're really not hurting anything by ditching them.

Edit. I'd also install your track bar in that top hole in the bracket. Flatter it is the better.

Benito · Nov 26, 2017

QuicksilverJK said:
That last picture sure looks like a drag link flip wouldn't be a bad option. Relatively inexpensive, and you wouldn't be hacking apart that pretty new axle. Also keeping that bracket for down the road when you decide to go hydro. Until then you can use it for your stabilizer.

Ddays said:
Edit. I'd also install your track bar in that top hole in the bracket. Flatter it is the better.

I would combine both of these. Install a draglink flip, and install the trackbar in the higher mounting hole on the raised tracbar bracket that is already on your PR44, this should keep both the draglink and trackbar parallel and flat, which is better. By doing this you can keep the ram mount tabs and install your stabilizer there if you think it is necessary.

Edit: You will probably have to install a set of 3” bumpstops up front, you should already have 1.75”-2” bumps since you have 1.75” lift. I have several sets of 3” Evo bumpstops i can send you if interested.

WJCO · Nov 26, 2017

If you end up considering the drag link flip, you may want to carefully measure ahead of time to make sure the flipped DL and raised TB will end up staying parallel to each other. If not, you will get bump steer and then you're stuck with a drilled knuckle. Are you pretty sure that your total lift height is less than 2 inches?

desertrunner · Nov 26, 2017

WJCO said:
If you end up considering the drag link flip, you may want to carefully measure ahead of time to make sure the flipped DL and raised TB will end up staying parallel to each other. If not, you will get bump steer and then you're stuck with a drilled knuckle. Are you pretty sure that your total lift height is less than 2 inches?

Ok well I just went and double and triple measured everything. According to the diagram below I am at 21" on shock length equating to 2.5" of lift. Which I'm not sure I entirely believe because before I started the axle swap I was at 19.5 which was 1" of lift and then I added 3/4" spacers. So I really should be at 1.75". Now I don't know if the PR44 shock brackets are a little bit off from stock so this diagram I'm using is no longer valid or what. If I truly am at 2.5" then using the raised track bar bracket and flipping the drag link isn't a crazy idea. In fact I would probably just go buy 2" plush rides now make it a full 3" of lift up front and run the drag link flip. BUT at 1.75" I feel like there is no way I would want to flip the drag link and use the raised track bar bracket.

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desertrunner · Nov 26, 2017

Ddays said:
If you're not gonna run the hydro setup i'd cut the brackets off. Those two tabs are really simple mounts to install later on if you did decide to go hydro. If you went with a taller lift you'd probably need a raised track bar mount as well so that whole existing trackbar bracket would end up needing replaced so you're really not hurting anything by ditching them.

Edit. I'd also install your track bar in that top hole in the bracket. Flatter it is the better.

It was to my understanding that if I run the track bar in the raised location then I also needed to flip the drag link. If I don't flip the drag link and raise the track bar they are not going to be at the same angle and I feel like that is just asking for some shitty steering. I still can't imagine needing the drag link flip right now but I guess if I actually am at 2.5" adding an extra .5" and doing a drag link flip isn't crazy, but doing 1 without the other doesn't seem right

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QuicksilverJK · Nov 26, 2017

desertrunner said:
It was to my understanding that if I run the track bar in the raised location then I also needed to flip the drag link. If I don't flip the drag link and raise the track bar they are not going to be at the same angle and I feel like that is just asking for some shitty steering. I still can't imagine needing the drag link flip right now but I guess if I actually am at 2.5" adding an extra .5" and doing a drag link flip isn't crazy, but doing 1 without the other doesn't seem right

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Yes this is correct. If you raise one, you should raise the other. You want them as close to parallel from each other as possible. I didn't mention it in my first response because you already have the raised track bar mount so you just need to move the bar.

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desertrunner · Nov 26, 2017

I think the simplest solution is to just cut off the hydro bracket and leave the drag link and track bar where they are at. I feel like trying to raise the track bar and flip the drag link at this stage in my build just to save the hydro bracket I may never use, is unnecessarily complicating things. For some reason I am reluctant to cut into the brand new axle but really I have no near future plans for hydro and if I do new tabs, or a new bracket can be welded on later.

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JKbrick · Nov 26, 2017

desertrunner said:
Ok well I just went and double and triple measured everything. According to the diagram below I am at 21" on shock length equating to 2.5" of lift. Which I'm not sure I entirely believe because before I started the axle swap I was at 19.5 which was 1" of lift and then I added 3/4" spacers. So I really should be at 1.75". Now I don't know if the PR44 shock brackets are a little bit off from stock so this diagram I'm using is no longer valid or what. If I truly am at 2.5" then using the raised track bar bracket and flipping the drag link isn't a crazy idea. In fact I would probably just go buy 2" plush rides now make it a full 3" of lift up front and run the drag link flip. BUT at 1.75" I feel like there is no way I would want to flip the drag link and use the raised track bar bracket.

View attachment 284028

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I have a drilled knuckle if you need it, when I lowered the Brick I went back to a stock knuckle.
Edit: on my 2 door I’m at 3” of lift with EVO 2” springs, just a little more than I wanted but it looks and drives like I wanted so I’m happy with it. I think I have some 3/4” rear spacers if you need them with new front coils

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desertrunner · Nov 26, 2017

JKbrick said:
I have a drilled knuckle if you need it, when I lowered the Brick I went back to a stock knuckle.
Edit: on my 2 door I’m at 3” of lift with EVO 2” springs, just a little more than I wanted but it looks and drives like I wanted so I’m happy with it. I think I have some 3/4” rear spacers if you need them with new front coils

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Do you have your drag link flipped with the evo 2" plush rides? Or are you saying putting in the 2" plush rides was going lower and you went back to stock drag link location?
If it steers just fine with the 2" plush rides at 3" for you without the flip then I really don't see a reason to do it to mine even lower.

Edit: read your build thread again and saw that when you went to the 2" plush rides you went back to stock steering. Which once again makes me think just leave it where it's at and cut the hydro bracket off
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JKbrick · Nov 26, 2017

desertrunner said:
Do you have your drag link flipped with the evo 2" plush rides? Or are you saying putting in the 2" plush rides was going lower and you went back to stock drag link location?
If it steers just fine with the 2" plush rides at 3" for you without the flip then I really don't see a reason to do it to mine even lower.

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Yes the 2” plush rides was lower than what I had. Before I changed my coils I had 2” JKS coils with a 3/4” spacer to level the rake and it was at 4.5” if I recall. I’m only on 285’s but it drives really nice in my opinion. I was surprised one day my wife even commented she thought it rode better after I lowered it

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jeeeep · Nov 26, 2017

could cut off the tabs and use a SS relocation bracket to align the SS higher like you have in the upper hole but it'll rotate the mount so it's level

Ddays · Nov 26, 2017

desertrunner said:
It was to my understanding that if I run the track bar in the raised location then I also needed to flip the drag link. If I don't flip the drag link and raise the track bar they are not going to be at the same angle and I feel like that is just asking for some shitty steering. I still can't imagine needing the drag link flip right now but I guess if I actually am at 2.5" adding an extra .5" and doing a drag link flip isn't crazy, but doing 1 without the other doesn't seem right

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Yeah sorry, I made the assumption you were gong to do a DL flip...

WJCO · Nov 26, 2017

desertrunner said:
I think the simplest solution is to just cut off the hydro bracket and leave the drag link and track bar where they are at. I feel like trying to raise the track bar and flip the drag link at this stage in my build just to save the hydro bracket I may never use, is unnecessarily complicating things. For some reason I am reluctant to cut into the brand new axle but really I have no near future plans for hydro and if I do new tabs, or a new bracket can be welded on later.

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I get it, but I cut mine off when the axle was still in the crate during the first week because the drag link was hitting it. I knew it had to go to make this thing work. Fixing it later at any time is a quick simple weld and paint. Just my :twocents:

desertrunner · Nov 26, 2017

Ddays said:
Yeah sorry, I made the assumption you were gong to do a DL flip...

No worries, I am still interested in how I'm now showing 2.5" of lift when I only added 3/4" pucks to 1". So really if I am actually at 2.5 if I just toss in the 2" plush rides that should yield me .5" which isn't bad and then I could consider the DL flip. But Brick didn't need the flip on his 2 Dr with the 2" plush rides so I probably wouldn't "need" it, it would once again just be spending money to flip the drag link to save a bracket I don't plan on using in the foreseeable future haha.

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desertrunner · Nov 26, 2017

So I know the RHD drag link looks a little different but by setting mine on the top of the axle it looks like it will clear the hydro assist bracket. I guess it really comes down to whether or not having a drag link flip at my lift height gains me anything. I have to add enough bump stop to clear the raised track bar bracket anyways so I should have enough bump to stop a flipped drag link from hitting the frame.

Buying the $300 evo flip kit seems pointless since my PR44 already has the raised track bar bracket all I need is the RHD drag link and the knuckle sleeve.

I guess the question is if I am at 1.75-2.5" of lift am I gaining anything by raising the track bar and flipping the drag link. Or should I just cut off the hydro bracket and be done with it? I could just buy the RHD drag link and nuckle sleeve, mount the track bar in the raised position and mount the steering stab in the lower hole and that would all work out too. I don't think having a raised track bar and a flipped drag link at this height would really hurt anything either.

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desertrunner · Nov 26, 2017

In any case I don't think it's a big deal to just cut the hydro bracket off and IF I ever choose down the road to run a hydro set up I'll get something new welded on.
So after all the debate I think I'm just going to cut it off

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JKbrick · Nov 26, 2017

desertrunner said:
No worries, I am still interested in how I'm now showing 2.5" of lift when I only added 3/4" pucks to 1". So really if I am actually at 2.5 if I just toss in the 2" plush rides that should yield me .5" which isn't bad and then I could consider the DL flip. But Brick didn't need the flip on his 2 Dr with the 2" plush rides so I probably wouldn't "need" it, it would once again just be spending money to flip the drag link to save a bracket I don't plan on using in the foreseeable future haha.

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What is your coil measurement vs the 9 3/8” in the picture? That may be more accurate than the shock length since the lower mount may not be the same on the new axle.

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