Water in front diff

Jersey_Devil

Jersey_Devil

New member
Went to pull someone out the other night and afterwards on the way out I got stuck window deep in water for about ten minutes.... Checked all my fluids today and my front diff is "milky" so I'm thinking I got water in.... Guess I need new seals cuz my breathers are hooked up to my snorkel..... I don't have the money to change my seals or even buy new fluids, union has been slow and unemployment is screwing me for another 4 weeks.... I barely have gas money right now. Let alone money for these repairs... I know I can "get by" with just changing fluid cause I NEVER go thru stuff like the other night but when a fellow jeeper was in trouble I was going to get him no matter what was in front of me!

I guess I just want to know how much I'm messing it up by driving it still? The gear fluid was still thick but was def grey and milky looking...

1632256632_10200233444592103.jpg

That's a pic stuck in the water.... U can see its only a few inches under my mirror in top right corner of the pic
 
Tackerdown

Tackerdown

Banned
Damn thank god you have good door seals, and sorry I don't have an answer for you .

Sent from my PC36100 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
pop2tu

pop2tu

Active Member
Unfortunately most front axles do a good job keeping fluid in, but not such a good job keeping water out. That water in the Diff oil if changed very soon will not cause any problems. But if left for any length of time will start rusting the bearings and bearing races, causing little pits in the metal surfaces. Those little pits cause additional heat to build up, and are what initiates the bearing failure. I would change your fluid sooner than later.
 
Jersey_Devil

Jersey_Devil

New member
pop2tu said:
Unfortunately most front axles do a good job keeping fluid in, but not such a good job keeping water out. That water in the Diff oil if changed very soon will not cause any problems. But if left for any length of time will start rusting the bearings and bearing races, causing little pits in the metal surfaces. Those little pits cause additional heat to build up, and are what initiates the bearing failure. I would change your fluid sooner than later.
Click to expand...

OK so I don't need seals then? I'm trying to do some side work tomorrow to make some money for fluid..... Damn union needs to get me back to work! Damn Obama, damn economy! But not my damn Jeep! Lol.... I should have fluid tomorrow... What kind of fluid is recommended by other jeepers here?
 
rinkishjk

rinkishjk

New member
I agree I would change it sooner than later. Just get some cheap 80w90 and change them, and then when u have money change em back to synthetic.
Water in there is a problem waiting to happen.
Walmart has it, and pretty cheap also.
 
jeek.olllllllo

jeek.olllllllo

Banned
Jersey_Devil said:
OK so I don't need seals then? I'm trying to do some side work tomorrow to make some money for fluid..... Damn union needs to get me back to work! Damn Obama, damn economy! But not my damn Jeep! Lol.... I should have fluid tomorrow... What kind of fluid is recommended by other jeepers here?
Click to expand...

I used the project jk write-up and added the addictive. I spend like 40 bucks for front a rear
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Definitely change out your fluids. If you just use regular dino gear oil, it's pretty cheap and you only need to buy 2 quarts. There is no need for friction modifier if you don't have a LSD and even if you did, pretty much all synthetic gear oils have it in it.
 
Jersey_Devil

Jersey_Devil

New member
OK I'll make sure to get some tomorrow... 80w90 synthetic too? Thanks everyone!

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Jersey_Devil

Jersey_Devil

New member
One other question I forgot to ask... After this every time I get gas I can ONLY get 20¢ increments before gas spews everywhere out the nozzle.. Tank isn't leaking and after this situation I was COMPLETELY out of gas... On the way home that night I got gas at a shell station and that was the first time that ever happened, and since it's every time I put gas in.... What is blocking the fuel? I was told there is some kind of flapper in the tube?
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Hellfire said:
What if you have ABR lockers?
Click to expand...

You only need friction modifier for differentials that have a limited slip differential. They have clutch packs to make them work and the additive is needed to help them to work properly. An ARB is a locker and friction modifier is not needed to make it work.
 
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