Decisions need to be made

Good morning everyone. I’d like to get opinions on the next stage of my build.

What started life as a 2013 Sahara JKU is now starting to really grow up. Upgrades to date include 4” EVO enforcer lift, evo control arms (8), King 2.5 shocks, drag link flip, synergy hd tie rod, skids, sliders, EVO cage, tire carrier, bumpers, etc... I have a PR44/60 being built that will be installed by ORE towards the end of the month with ARB lockers and 5.13 gears (to eventually run 37”). Im running Nitto ridge grappler 35”s right now with 10,000 miles on them. This is where my issues/decisions start. I screwed up and stayed with the 18” wheel size when I upgraded in early 2017 and the wheels have 5” backspace. I noticed some rubbing on the driver side shock while disconnected and full turn/flex while out on the Mojave run last weekend.

The next item on my upgrade list was to install a Rubicon transfer case after the axles.

But now that I’m noticing a rub on the shock, and gearing for 37”s, I’m conflicted. Do I
1)bite the bullet and get 37”s and 17” beadlocks and try to sell the 35”s and wheels while they still have good tread/condition
2) buy 18” beadlocks with the proper backspace and continue to run the 35”s until they need to be replaced and then move up to 37”s (knowing my tires will usually be more expensive and I’m told the ride is better on 17” wheels overall)
3) deal with the slight rubbing and keep the tires and wheels until they need to be replaced and add the Rubi transfer case while it’s at ORE for the axles anyway.

So, what would you do?

Being that the rubbing only occurs when you're axle is in certain positions, I would leave it for now. Any pictures of where the tire is rubbing at?

Oh, and I would skip buying the 18" wheels because it sounds like you already know that isn't your best option and likely wouldn't be happy with it up the road.

#1 - New shoes to go with the new lift, plus 37’s will look better with the 4” lift. And 5.13 is low for a 35” tire.

Thx. Here is a picture. I already had cleaned it up a little but the sticker had been scraped back a lot more and there were what I suspected were rubber marks up that side.

Thanks. I’ve been running the 35”s with the 4” lift for about 8 months and am happy with them, until I saw the rub. I’ve not trimmed my stock fenders, so the 35”s don’t look too out of place on that high a lift. But yes, I agree 37”s on 17” beadlocks will look and ride a lot better.

Just looking for a sanity check on this. I appreciate the feedback. I put the tires/wheels up on Facebook marketplace about a week ago as this was they direction I was leaning but I haven’t gotten any hits. I’ll branch out to craigslist as a next step.

TrailHunter said:

#1 - New shoes to go with the new lift, plus 37’s will look better with the 4” lift. And 5.13 is low for a 35” tire.

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I would go with option #1. You'll get the wheels you want and will be happy with the 37's.

Vinnielax said:

Thanks. I’ve been running the 35”s with the 4” lift for about 8 months and am happy with them, until I saw the rub. I’ve not trimmed my stock fenders, so the 35”s don’t look too out of place on that high a lift. But yes, I agree 37”s on 17” beadlocks will look and ride a lot better.

Just looking for a sanity check on this. I appreciate the feedback. I put the tires/wheels up on Facebook marketplace about a week ago as this was they direction I was leaning but I haven’t gotten any hits. I’ll branch out to craigslist as a next step.

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I looked at the New Years run pics and Yeah, for sure, the setup you have now looks good with 35’s... who’s 4” lift are you running now? The Evo 4” may be taller... plus you’re gonna have new bad ass axles now sooooo... might well put them to use with 37’s.... can’t wait to see it man!

TrailHunter said:

I looked at the New Years run pics and Yeah, for sure, the setup you have now looks good with 35’s... who’s 4” lift are you running now? The Evo 4” may be taller... plus you’re gonna have new bad ass axles now sooooo... might well put them to use with 37’s.... can’t wait to see it man!

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Yes, already running the EVO lift and all the rest of those upgrades in my original post. The axles and lockers, and front/rear drive shafts are going in late Jan. So it’s just a matter of deciding to do tires and wheels (and lose some money on them if I can even sell them) or Rubi transfercase instead.

Can that yellow band be loosened at all to twist that bypass cylinder in a little ?

Good thought. I’ll check that tonight.

Vinnielax said:

Yes, already running the EVO lift and all the rest of those upgrades in my original post. The axles and lockers, and front/rear drive shafts are going in late Jan. So it’s just a matter of deciding to do tires and wheels (and lose some money on them if I can even sell them) or Rubi transfercase instead.

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I would go with tires and wheels. If you’re serious about wheeling, get some 17” beadlocks and 37s and embrace the fact that the wheels are going to get all scratched up.

Re a Rubi transfer case, I think that’s secondary and honestly I’d patiently hold out for a cheap on on Craigslist. I have a Rubi transfer case and a Rubicrawler, so I have the benefit of both a 4:1 option and a 2.7:1 option. I use both depending on the circumstances. I can’t say the 4:1 is night and day better over the 2.7:1 to justify, in my mind at least, paying more than $1k or so for it.

Thanks again for the sanity check. Seems to be a pretty clear course of action. Cheers!

fiend said:

I would go with tires and wheels. If you’re serious about wheeling, get some 17” beadlocks and 37s and embrace the fact that the wheels are going to get all scratched up.

Re a Rubi transfer case, I think that’s secondary and honestly I’d patiently hold out for a cheap on on Craigslist. I have a Rubi transfer case and a Rubicrawler, so I have the benefit of both a 4:1 option and a 2.7:1 option. I use both depending on the circumstances. I can’t say the 4:1 is night and day better over the 2.7:1 to justify, in my mind at least, paying more than $1k or so for it.

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I had the same rub on the king 2.5s with 37s. Some spidertrax wheel spacers solved the issue. If I were you I would sell the 35s and 18 inch wheels since they’re fairly new and get 37s on 17s.


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WJCO said:

Can that yellow band be loosened at all to twist that bypass cylinder in a little ?

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Vinnielax said:

Good thought. I’ll check that tonight.

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The Aeroquip hoses between the reservoir and shock are really really stiff (apply WJCO joke here ) I'd be surprised if you can move it more than a few degrees.

And I agree with all - get the 37's and 17" wheels now. If you don't do it now you'll wish you had on down the road. And 5:13 is a really good ratio for 37's. I ran 4:88's first and then went with 5:13's when I swapped axles.
There really isn't much of a difference at the top end but there is a noticeable difference when accelerating from a stop.

Thanks again everyone. This was very helpful!