Rigid + flicker?
- Thread starter Holeshot
- Start date
Philip *AZ*
Banned
Maybe a bad ground? I have no experience with Rigids.
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JKAnimal
Caught the Bug
The computer theory is possible. There might be some sort of resistor or capacitor that bleeds out after you turn off the power.
Mine are wired right to the battery so I don't have that problem.
You might unplug them and use a voltmeter to measure the DC power coming out of the Jeep plug after you turn them off. Probably need a helper for that.
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Mine are wired right to the battery so I don't have that problem.
You might unplug them and use a voltmeter to measure the DC power coming out of the Jeep plug after you turn them off. Probably need a helper for that.
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orngcrushrgrl
New member
Our fogs are weird into the existing wiring from the stock fog lights. We've never had an issue with any sort of flicker. Maybe check your wiring to make sure you're grounded properly?
I have seen this before. Some have replaced the lamps and the new set worked, while others continue to have the issue. Best way is to power them directly to the battery and hook the relay to the factory wiring so they can be triggered by the oem switch if you don't have a switch panel. Do some more research....I have seen this issue posted several times here and elsewhere many times.:beer:
Holeshot
Banned
the bad ground theory can't apply here, I'm directly plugued to the oem harness, both power and ground wires. welded and covered properly (I'm a mecanic )
Anyway, its not something that annoys me but, If there was something I could do I would fix it. If not, it will probably stay just like that.
Anyway, its not something that annoys me but, If there was something I could do I would fix it. If not, it will probably stay just like that.
orngcrushrgrl
New member
I have no idea then. We did the exact same thing to ours that you did to yours and we've got no problems so far. Good luck to ya, I hope you get it fixed up soon
TheDuff
New member
Maybe something like this? Basically a small capacitor to not piss off canbus
http://shop.mobileweb.ebay.com/searchresults?cmd=SREF&catid=0&kw=CAN+BUS+HID+WARNING+CANCELLER+
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using WAYALIFE mobile app
http://shop.mobileweb.ebay.com/searchresults?cmd=SREF&catid=0&kw=CAN+BUS+HID+WARNING+CANCELLER+
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using WAYALIFE mobile app
Holeshot
Banned
Both flicker, and not at the same time.. I'll take a video to show you. It's really weird.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
It's because the aftermarket lights drawing different current from the stock ones. I would suggest wiring them on your own and not using the stock.
gtony12
Caught the Bug
TheDuff and OverlanderJK could be right.
Maybe something like this? Basically a small capacitor to not piss off canbus
My :twocents:
calculations of watts/volts/amps. It could be a few things. Wire size maybe to small or wrong relay size (OEM) my need after market. or a grounding issue. You would be better off running a hot wire from power source and use the switch leg from the OEM switch. For any after market light I use #12 awg wire.
Looking at the specs below my theory maybe wrong but something to look at :twocents:
Here are the Dually D2s specs (per light)….
· 50,000+ hour lifespan
· 9-36V
· Reverse polarity protection
· Available in driving or wide beam optics
· IP68 certified
· Unbreakable polycarbonate lens
· A360 High purity aluminum cast housing
· Durable UV3800 polyester powder coat
· Sealed deutsch connector
· Over/under voltage protection
· Goretex breather
· Operating temp -40~+145 deg F
· MIL810-STDG vibration certified
· ASTMB117 salt/fog certified
· ROHS Compliant
· Electrically protected against RFI/EMC interference
· Integrated thermal management system
· Updated hybrid patented optic system
· Patented specter optics (pat.#7,438,477)
· 1.25 pounds
· 28 watts
· Amp draw 1.9
· 2600 lumens
Maybe something like this? Basically a small capacitor to not piss off canbus
My :twocents:
calculations of watts/volts/amps. It could be a few things. Wire size maybe to small or wrong relay size (OEM) my need after market. or a grounding issue. You would be better off running a hot wire from power source and use the switch leg from the OEM switch. For any after market light I use #12 awg wire.
Looking at the specs below my theory maybe wrong but something to look at :twocents:
Here are the Dually D2s specs (per light)….
· 50,000+ hour lifespan
· 9-36V
· Reverse polarity protection
· Available in driving or wide beam optics
· IP68 certified
· Unbreakable polycarbonate lens
· A360 High purity aluminum cast housing
· Durable UV3800 polyester powder coat
· Sealed deutsch connector
· Over/under voltage protection
· Goretex breather
· Operating temp -40~+145 deg F
· MIL810-STDG vibration certified
· ASTMB117 salt/fog certified
· ROHS Compliant
· Electrically protected against RFI/EMC interference
· Integrated thermal management system
· Updated hybrid patented optic system
· Patented specter optics (pat.#7,438,477)
· 1.25 pounds
· 28 watts
· Amp draw 1.9
· 2600 lumens
Last edited:
TheDuff
New member
I've seen a lot of people posting around with this issue. Some have bought small caps from electronics store and soldered it in. I figured the canbus canceller would just be easier. Of course a relay with battery power will fix it also. Just extra wire to run, especially when the factory stuff should run these lights with no effort.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using WAYALIFE mobile app
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using WAYALIFE mobile app
Holeshot
Banned
#12 is way too big for light power 
A standart car wiring harness for headlights use 16 AWG wires or even 18.
Mine are dually's, not D2's. So they draw a very little current compared to EOM fogs.
http://www.rigidindustries.com/Dually-LED-Light-Spot-p/dually-sp.htm
As the rigid site mention, they draw 1.45 amps per light. At this current draw, we could use 18 AWG without any problem, and if I'm right, the wires in the factory fog harness are 14 or 16, which is big enough.
My jk's a 2012 with only 17 000kms on it, so I guess the ground is good.
The use of a capacitor on the fog would create a delay when I turn them off, and honestly, would't do anything. Usualy, capacitors are used when flicker happen while the light is on, to prevent voltage fluctuation to flicker the light, not while it is off with or without engine running.
The fact that they flicker, IMHO, is because the module that manage the fog lights still sends current in the harness after they've been turned off, and probably because it already has a capacitor in the module, and discharge in the fogs for 30sec to 1 min after they've been turned off.
my :twocents:
:standing wave:
A standart car wiring harness for headlights use 16 AWG wires or even 18.
Mine are dually's, not D2's. So they draw a very little current compared to EOM fogs.
http://www.rigidindustries.com/Dually-LED-Light-Spot-p/dually-sp.htm
As the rigid site mention, they draw 1.45 amps per light. At this current draw, we could use 18 AWG without any problem, and if I'm right, the wires in the factory fog harness are 14 or 16, which is big enough.
My jk's a 2012 with only 17 000kms on it, so I guess the ground is good.
The use of a capacitor on the fog would create a delay when I turn them off, and honestly, would't do anything. Usualy, capacitors are used when flicker happen while the light is on, to prevent voltage fluctuation to flicker the light, not while it is off with or without engine running.
The fact that they flicker, IMHO, is because the module that manage the fog lights still sends current in the harness after they've been turned off, and probably because it already has a capacitor in the module, and discharge in the fogs for 30sec to 1 min after they've been turned off.
my :twocents:
:standing wave:
gtony12
Caught the Bug
#12 is way too big for light power
A standart car wiring harness for headlights use 16 AWG wires or even 18.
Mine are dually's, not D2's. So they draw a very little current compared to EOM fogs.
http://www.rigidindustries.com/Dually-LED-Light-Spot-p/dually-sp.htm
As the rigid site mention, they draw 1.45 amps per light. At this current draw, we could use 18 AWG without any problem, and if I'm right, the wires in the factory fog harness are 14 or 16, which is big enough.
My jk's a 2012 with only 17 000kms on it, so I guess the ground is good.
The use of a capacitor on the fog would create a delay when I turn them off, and honestly, would't do anything. Usualy, capacitors are used when flicker happen while the light is on, to prevent voltage fluctuation to flicker the light, not while it is off with or without engine running.
The fact that they flicker, IMHO, is because the module that manage the fog lights still sends current in the harness after they've been turned off, and probably because it already has a capacitor in the module, and discharge in the fogs for 30sec to 1 min after they've been turned off.
my :twocents:
:standing wave:
Sounds like you got it covered.. Good luck!!
Looking at the specs below my theory maybe wrong but something to look at
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gtony12
Caught the Bug
The use of a capacitor on the fog would create a delay when I turn them off, I am still thinking :thinking: why do they want them to stay on after they are turned off?:thinking::idontknow:
FYI: For myself I use #12 awg wire, I have always did over kill, reasons why I may at the time use the wire for light but sometime I end up using for some other device. I try to fish all my wires thru the frame. So I go bigger just in case there needed for something else then I don't need to re-pull wires or even add more light devices etc....:idontknow:
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Holeshot
Banned
The capacitor, if there's one in the module that controls the fogs, would be used for the same reason some people add one in-line with the headlight wiring, to prevent flicker. But since LED's don't work the same way as halogen, I guess this might be the reason :thinking: I should test that out someday.
The use of 12 AWG sure is overkill, but not necessary, 14 is big enough to run 100w halogens or even bigger. Anyways, as long as it works..
