jmedgar
Member
For a while my rear locker has had some trouble unlocking and it finally fully failed. It was stuck closed enough that I had to pull the cover to get the plate to move to the right to dis-engage. Even manually moving it definitely does not snap into place it just kind of slides over. I am trying to troubleshoot and decide if it is worth trying to fix or not. It seems like it could only be the magnetic solenoid or return spring but I am no expert.
My tests/thoughts:
I took a non-stainless razor blade and when the magnet is energized (11 volts coming through the connector) it works but is barely strong enough to feel, and won't hold it in place on the outside edge. Should it be stronger than that? If so is that a good place to start?
Is there a return spring pushing the pawls (maybe not the right term but the blocks that move left and lock into the left side) and if so it is replaceable? It currently seems like there is no tension pushing the plate in either direction.
Could the sensor be causing any of these issues? It seems to me that would only control the light coming on or off and that works as expected if you manually move the plate. It also seems like if it was real sticky it could cause drag on it locking but not unlocking.
And finally if it seems like it is the magnet can I pull the locker out of the housing to replace the part as long as I keep the shims in order, or would I need to reset backlash? I have never been inside a dif other than to change fluids before.
Or is the only answer an ARB with new shafts? I have plans to regear at which point i'd do ARB's and shafts since I no longer trust the elocker, but I wan't planning on it for a year or so, so if I can fix my current one for a few hundred bucks it would be worth it for now.
Thanks a ton for any information you can give me!
My tests/thoughts:
I took a non-stainless razor blade and when the magnet is energized (11 volts coming through the connector) it works but is barely strong enough to feel, and won't hold it in place on the outside edge. Should it be stronger than that? If so is that a good place to start?
Is there a return spring pushing the pawls (maybe not the right term but the blocks that move left and lock into the left side) and if so it is replaceable? It currently seems like there is no tension pushing the plate in either direction.
Could the sensor be causing any of these issues? It seems to me that would only control the light coming on or off and that works as expected if you manually move the plate. It also seems like if it was real sticky it could cause drag on it locking but not unlocking.
And finally if it seems like it is the magnet can I pull the locker out of the housing to replace the part as long as I keep the shims in order, or would I need to reset backlash? I have never been inside a dif other than to change fluids before.
Or is the only answer an ARB with new shafts? I have plans to regear at which point i'd do ARB's and shafts since I no longer trust the elocker, but I wan't planning on it for a year or so, so if I can fix my current one for a few hundred bucks it would be worth it for now.
Thanks a ton for any information you can give me!
