Body roll sucks. Both on jeep and on my body

rubiconrunner

rubiconrunner

New member
I’m up to 40s. 3.5” lift with bumpstops to spare. (East coast wheeling) either way I need some recommendations to reduce body roll and feel a bit more “grounded” on the highway. Currently feels as if we were on the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria while riding on highways and Columbus ain’t around to steer this. Even shifting a lane starts the last rites in the rig by all occupants.

Please read the post, I’m asking for recommendations on Reduction of body roll, Not what you think about my current axles, lift, tire size, job positions, etc. please keep all the extra donkey crap to yourself. Yea.... I already know it’s not a race car.....


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BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
rubiconrunner said:
I’m up to 40s. 3.5” lift with bumpstops to spare. (East coast wheeling) either way I need some recommendations to reduce body roll and feel a bit more “grounded” on the highway. Currently feels as if we were on the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria while riding on highways and Columbus ain’t around to steer this. Even shifting a lane starts the last rites in the rig by all occupants.

Please read the post, I’m asking for recommendations on Reduction of body roll, Not what you think about my current axles, lift, tire size, job positions, etc. please keep all the extra donkey crap to yourself. Yea.... I already know it’s not a race car.....


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What kind of shocks are you running? Did you do a drag link flip and raise your track bar?

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
Snboarder113

Snboarder113

Hooked
rubiconrunner said:
Please read the post, I’m asking for recommendations on Reduction of body roll, Not what you think about my current axles, lift, tire size, job positions, etc. please keep all the extra donkey crap to yourself. Yea.... I already know it’s not a race car.....


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Click to expand...

Yeahhhhh. Glad you know it’s not a race car but all that other information would help to understand what you’re already running and what’s either missing or needs fixing. You can keep your job position to yourself though ;)


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wjtstudios

wjtstudios

Hooked
Going with adjustable shocks makes a huge difference. You can turn them up on the highway where you want it to stay flat. Then drop it to 0 for the trails and it soaks up the bumps. I have the Kings and are very happy with them.


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
You need a blowjob to take your edge off. Then possibly stiffer springs. Weak/soft springs contribute to body roll. Also make sure your shocks aren't worn out. Then check the condition of your sway bar bushings and sway bar links. Those things will help a ton.
 
rubiconrunner

rubiconrunner

New member
wjtstudios said:
Going with adjustable shocks makes a huge difference. You can turn them up on the highway where you want it to stay flat. Then drop it to 0 for the trails and it soaks up the bumps. I have the Kings and are very happy with them.


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That’s my next upgrade. Currently running 5100s and just found one leaking tonight... on the fence with fox adjustables tuned for the jk or king


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rubiconrunner

rubiconrunner

New member
WJCO said:
You need a blowjob to take your edge off. Then possibly stiffer springs. Weak/soft springs contribute to body roll. Also make sure your shocks aren't worn out. Then check the condition of your sway bar bushings and sway bar links. Those things will help a ton.
Click to expand...

Found a leaking shock tonight so starting there lol and no edges needed to take off. Just needed to clear the air upfront, there’s certain members that like to criticize in which order things are done or how money is spent and don’t even bother giving insight to the OPs questions...


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BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
rubiconrunner said:
5100, no flip ... working on that next.... oem sway bar, could that be an issue?


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If your track bar and drag link aren't parallel, you're probably experiencing bump steer. If your shocks are blown out and your springs are soft that will also be an issue. Factory sway bar is not a problem... Unless it's a Rubi and the bar is disconnected. 😎 Also, if your sway bar links are too long that could be a factor.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
fiend

fiend

Caught the Bug
Also check your toe. If you have toe out (negative toe), you Jeep will want to wander a bit, requiring more constant correction to keep going straight. The corrections might feel a little like body roll.
 
rubiconrunner

rubiconrunner

New member
BaddestCross said:
If your track bar and drag link aren't parallel, you're probably experiencing bump steer. If your shocks are blown out and your springs are soft that will also be an issue. Factory sway bar is not a problem... Unless it's a Rubi and the bar is disconnected. [emoji41] Also, if your sway bar links are too long that could be a factor.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
Click to expand...


It’s Rubicon and it’s not disconnected (don’t think) .

I know I def have a blown shock. Springs are probably gonna be replaced soon. Thanks for the input


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fusion_jeff

fusion_jeff

New member
Stiffer springs, adjustable shocks and tires with stiffer/thicker sidewalls and correct air pressure.

Currently running 37s with a 4” Rubicon Express lift kit. The springs from the kit are way too stiff for my liking... but the rig handles like a slot car on the highway now compared to when it was all stock.


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zimm

zimm

Caught the Bug
What springs? I'm on EVO spec King 2.5 adjustables. Very well dampened. I get roll when I hunker into a corner, but nothing "sailing" down the highway. And I'm on click 5 out of 21. I'm also on soft evo springs.

I would do the drag link flip. Get those track bars as level to the ground as you can. On the rear bracket, if you have the option, try the tallest hole. I'm running an Artec welded on bracket and top hole for the track bar.
 
rubiconrunner

rubiconrunner

New member
zimm said:
Come to think of it, I have the artec rear bracket and a synergy front bracket (with a drag link flip) , which also gives me the tabs for the PSC hydro assist ram.

View attachment 305025
View attachment 305026
Click to expand...

Thank you. I’m currently running OME HD springs about 3.5” in the rear. And the front as well. I will start with the brackets as I have yet to do that. And going to be upgrading the shocks soon as well. Falcon shocks suck? everyone seems to vouch for the kings so I may follow the crowd on this one [emoji28]


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BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
rubiconrunner said:
Thank you. I’m currently running OME HD springs about 3.5” in the rear. And the front as well. I will start with the brackets as I have yet to do that. And going to be upgrading the shocks soon as well. Falcon shocks suck? everyone seems to vouch for the kings so I may follow the crowd on this one [emoji28]


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Click to expand...
Those springs shouldn't be soft unless you're carrying a shit ton of weight. I run the 2" in the rear... I'd definitely check the shocks as well as put some eyes on your drag link/track bar to be sure they're parallel.

Also, I think someone else mentioned the tie rod and ball joints. If there's any slop in them, you'll be all over the road as well.

Also part 2 😎, King shocks are probably the shit, but if you're looking for an economic alternative, you can't beat the Rancho 9000XLs.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
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