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desertrunner
07-25-2018, 04:06 AM
So I was trying to take off my spacers tonight so I could get my rear rotors off and one of the spacers lugs will not come off..... when I try to loosen it goes from tight to really loose and back to tight but will not back off the stud it just keeps spinning.

Any ideas on how the fuck I'm supposed to get this off now? And what I might have done to the stud?

306708

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TrailHunter
07-25-2018, 04:23 AM
So I was trying to take off my spacers tonight so I could get my rear rotors off and one of the spacers lugs will not come off..... when I try to loosen it goes from tight to really loose and back to tight but will not back off the stud it just keeps spinning.

Any ideas on how the fuck I'm supposed to get this off now? And what I might have done to the stud?




Is the Stud Spinning?

desertrunner
07-25-2018, 04:32 AM
Is the Stud Spinning?
I cant tell, the only way I can get to that nut is with a socket so I cant see if the wheel stud is spinning. My next thought was to pull the axle shaft which will have to come off with the spacer and rotor attached and see if I can see the back of the stud. If the wheel stud is spinning (which I imagine is the case) still not too sure how the hell I'm gonna get that nut off

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TrailHunter
07-25-2018, 05:15 AM
I cant tell, the only way I can get to that nut is with a socket so I cant see if the wheel stud is spinning. My next thought was to pull the axle shaft which will have to come off with the spacer and rotor attached and see if I can see the back of the stud. If the wheel stud is spinning (which I imagine is the case) still not too sure how the hell I'm gonna get that nut off

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Or just mark the end of the stud with a pencil...

jesse3638
07-25-2018, 05:53 AM
I think one of two things is happening. 1-The stud is spinning like you think, 2-That section of threads is stripped and the nut is spinning in place.

Can you get a pry bar or screw driver behind the spacer to put outward pressure on it while you try to loosen it? If that doesn't work you should be able to take the caliper off the caliper bracket and pull the whole axle like you suggested. You'll have to grind the back of the stud off and drive it through then replace the stud and lugnut.

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nbunga
07-25-2018, 07:30 AM
Or just mark the end of the stud with a pencil...
So simple yet so genius

desertrunner
07-25-2018, 05:25 PM
Thank you guys for the quick response I was pretty frustrated last night. So first thing I'm gonna do is mark the stud and see if its spinning.

The spacer is still pretty tight to the rotor so im really not sure that I can anything in between there to pry some force on there. What ever happened must have happened right on the initial loosening torque.

If the stud is spinning I imagine I'm going to have to pull the shaft with everything attached and see if I can get to the back of the stud, maybe try and get some vice grips on it or try and cut off the back of the stud.

Either way this is going to be a painful process all because i wanted to adjust my damn E brake

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VeruGE*144
07-25-2018, 05:33 PM
I read some people weld the stud from the back to stop it form spinning.

desertrunner
07-25-2018, 05:50 PM
I read some people weld the stud from the back to stop it form spinning.
That thought also crossed my mind if it is spinning and I cant manage to cut it off somehow

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desertrunner
07-25-2018, 05:53 PM
My next thought is though if it is spinning hopefully I didnt damage the hole its pressed into. If I need to press a new stud into a damaged hole it may just spin like the old on. Welding it maybe be a necessity

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desertrunner
07-26-2018, 12:09 AM
Ok I did confirm in fact that the stud is spinning. I'm still going to try and get something behind the spacer to pry some force on there and see if it's enough to hold the stud (I don't imagine I'll be able to do either). Next step will be to pull the shaft and see if I can get to the back of the stud

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desertrunner
07-26-2018, 01:31 AM
Side note is this supposed to be loose? Or pressed tight?

306754

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desertrunner
07-26-2018, 01:45 AM
So the question is, if I cut the head off of the back of the stud with my dremmil can I punch the rest of it through the front?

306758

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Bierpower
07-26-2018, 01:49 AM
Short answer is yes.

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desertrunner
07-26-2018, 02:12 AM
Short answer is yes.

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What's the long answer? Haha

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Snboarder113
07-26-2018, 02:19 AM
What's the long answer? Haha

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Yessiree


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QuicksilverJK
07-26-2018, 03:43 AM
Smear a little silicon on that seal prior to re installing, and be real careful not to pinch the lip. They expand on initial install and can easily get messed up causing a leak if re-used.


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TrailHunter
07-26-2018, 04:30 AM
like mentioned before.... couldn't you just tack weld it?

desertrunner
07-26-2018, 04:50 AM
like mentioned before.... couldn't you just tack weld it?
If I had a welder I'd have definitely done that already.

Question is, if I tac weld it can I just leave that stud in and call it day? Or would I then have to grind the weld off to pop the stud out and replace it anyhow? Because if that's the case I might as well just cut the head off now if I have to replace it anyways

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TrailHunter
07-26-2018, 05:26 AM
If I had a welder I'd have definitely done that already.

Question is, if I tac weld it can I just leave that stud in and call it day? Or would I then have to grind the weld off to pop the stud out and replace it anyhow? Because if that's the case I might as well just cut the head off now if I have to replace it anyways

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Got it.... Yeah, just remove and replace then... hopefully the hole isn't messed up and just the stud is stripped... otherwise you may have to tac it anyway.. good luck man. Hope it goes smoothly.

desertrunner
07-30-2018, 02:06 AM
So here is my question before I start cutting.
If I cut the back of the head off and push it through the front can I press a new stud in and not be worried about it spinning again? Or am I going to fuck up that hole in the axle shaft flange?

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fiend
07-30-2018, 02:42 AM
So here is my question before I start cutting.
If I cut the back of the head off and push it through the front can I press a new stud in and not be worried about it spinning again? Or am I going to fuck up that hole in the axle shaft flange?

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The hole may be oversized now. Why not just a tack weld?

desertrunner
07-30-2018, 03:06 AM
The hole may be oversized now. Why not just a tack weld?
I think I'm gonna call dynatrac tomorrow and just see if they know the material strength difference to see if it's pretty much guaranteed that I fucked the hole up.

And mostly because i need to find someone with a welder Haha

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QuicksilverJK
07-30-2018, 03:33 AM
Chances are good that the hole is already damaged from the spinning. If it hasn't spun then there will be no problem pressing a new one in. If it has then finding someone to give it a quick tack weld will be plenty safe.


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desertrunner
07-30-2018, 03:50 AM
Chances are good that the hole is already damaged from the spinning. If it hasn't spun then there will be no problem pressing a new one in. If it has then finding someone to give it a quick tack weld will be plenty safe.


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Oh yeah its definitely spinning and pretty easy at this point, so if that hole is already fucked up I'm gonna have to weld it or get an entirely new axle shaft. Before I do anything I do want to give dynatrac a call and see if they have any insight.
If I just weld it I'm always gonna be worried about that damn stud and after spending all that $ that sucks

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desertrunner
07-30-2018, 03:56 AM
Sure wish dynatrac made the back of their wheel studs with a hex head instead of round... then I at least would be able to get the lug nut off pretty quick

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fiend
07-30-2018, 04:11 AM
Sure wish dynatrac made the back of their wheel studs with a hex head instead of round... then I at least would be able to get the lug nut off pretty quick

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Go to harbor freight and get a 100 dollar mig welder. Watch a few u tube videos, practice a little, and tack weld it. Easy peasy.

desertrunner
07-30-2018, 04:47 AM
Go to harbor freight and get a 100 dollar mig welder. Watch a few u tube videos, practice a little, and tack weld it. Easy peasy.
I do know how to weld I just don't have access to the equipment I used to use but I'm sure someone at my work has one I can toss a quick tack on.
More of my point is if I tack weld it how strong is that really gonna be? Enough to hold it so I don't have to replace the stud?
I didnt throw a bunch of money into my jeep to hope a tack weld holds ya know?

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QuicksilverJK
07-30-2018, 09:36 AM
That stud has been compromised and I would replace it regardless of if you can get the lug nut off. If pressing the new stud in provides good results then great. If not, tack the new stud in and forget about it. The tack is just taking place of the interference fit stud. If you don't like that route then buy a new shaft and keep this as a spare, or have the shaft stud hole filled and re drilled by a machine shop.


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desertrunner
07-30-2018, 06:13 PM
Ok so found someone at work with a welder that I can tac it to get it out. Dynatrac did say that they don't reccomend having to tac the new one if the hole is walloed out but I wouldn't really have an option if the hole is jacked up other than buy a new shaft. Which I wonder if they would replace it under warranty considering these shafts don't even have 500 miles on them

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WJCO
07-30-2018, 06:25 PM
Ok so found someone at work with a welder that I can tac it to get it out. Dynatrac did say that they don't reccomend having to tac the new one if the hole is walloed out but I wouldn't really have an option if the hole is jacked up other than buy a new shaft. Which I wonder if they would replace it under warranty considering these shafts don't even have 500 miles on them

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I would definitely try to warranty them if they have that low of mileage on them.

jesse3638
07-30-2018, 06:33 PM
I would definitely try to warranty them if they have that low of mileage on them.

^^^This First^^^

If they won't warranty it what about putting 4 tacks (1/4 spacing) into the empty hole then press the stud in? That would make it tight just not sure if it would cause the stud to be come misaligned in the bold pattern. If that works then you could tack the stud in for additional piece pf mind.

Bierpower
07-30-2018, 07:23 PM
Pull the old one out and check a new stud in the hole before you start getting too worried. Axle shafts are generally made of harder steel than wheel studs and take quite a bit to deform. Unless you had this free spinning with an impact making a bunch heat in there the axle is probably fine.

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Snboarder113
07-30-2018, 11:24 PM
That guy ^
Wheel studs are surprisingly weak metal.


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desertrunner
07-31-2018, 02:48 AM
So we tacked the stud got the lug nut off and pressed out the stud. The splines on the stud are obviously stripped, the hole on the axle shaft looks un damaged. Dynatrac is sending me a new stud looks like I'll be good to go.
Guess ill use a little less locktite on this next round of spacer instal.

307149

307150

307151

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HighwayTrout
07-31-2018, 03:35 AM
Gotta love it when a 15 minute job turns into a week long headache. lol

Glad it all worked out!

Now what did we learn here? Never hammer on lug nuts with an impact, spacers suck, everyone needs a welder, axels>studs relax.

desertrunner
07-31-2018, 03:38 AM
Gotta love it when a 15 minute job turns into a week long headache. lol

Glad it all worked out!

Now what did we learn here? Never hammer on lug nuts with an impact, spacers suck, everyone needs a welder, axels>studs relax.
Right! All I wanted to do was adjust my E brake Haha
For the record I did not tighten the spacers with an impact just tried to take them off with my impact when it spun.

Agreed that spacers suck I really wish I didnt have to run them but spacers are cheaper than new wheels...

And yes i really wish i had a welder and this is by far not the first time... might be time to invest

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jesse3638
07-31-2018, 03:46 AM
Gotta love it when a 15 minute job turns into a week long headache. lol

Glad it all worked out!

Now what did we learn here? Never hammer on lug nuts with an impact, spacers suck, everyone needs a welder, axels>studs relax.

Sounds like any job I do, especially plumbing..haha.

Highway trout forgot to mention one thing, beer.

Glad it worked out and sounds like you'll back on the road without much expense other than time and patience.

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desertrunner
07-31-2018, 04:25 AM
Sounds like any job I do, especially plumbing..haha.

Highway trout forgot to mention one thing, beer.

Glad it worked out and sounds like you'll back on the road without much expense other than time and patience.

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Its shit like this that is exactly why my 2nd JK is not my daily driver. I ran into stuff like this too many times with my last one and it was awkward bumming rides to work because I couldn't finish what I started right away.

And yeah even though it's a pain in the ass it's just more experience and knowledge under my belt.

I did get a little nervous though considering I leave for moab in 20 days and have been swamped at work but it's looking like I'll be good to go

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QuicksilverJK
07-31-2018, 01:05 PM
Are these Dynatrac 35 spline? And what had you been torquing them to? Just curious because I'm running the same setup with 1.5" spacers.


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desertrunner
07-31-2018, 01:52 PM
Are these Dynatrac 35 spline? And what had you been torquing them to? Just curious because I'm running the same setup with 1.5" spacers.


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Yep and I followed exactly what the directions said in the spydertrax box so 80-90 or something like that. But based on how much crusted on locktite I had to scrape off I think I used too much

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QuicksilverJK
07-31-2018, 03:47 PM
Yep and I followed exactly what the directions said in the spydertrax box so 80-90 or something like that. But based on how much crusted on locktite I had to scrape off I think I used too much

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Wow, I will definitely be keeping a close eye on mine then. I have never seen a stud spin like that without the threads being chewed up.


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Snboarder113
07-31-2018, 05:16 PM
What color loctite did you use? I never used it when I ran spacers. Just torqued, then a hundred miles later retorqued and they’d be good.


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Jody Treadway
07-31-2018, 05:19 PM
This has happened to me a few times over the years. Another method is to drill through the stud, gradually increasing the bit size to 1/2". Once you get past the lugnut, the wheel (or spacer) can come off easily.
Then replace the failed stud.

Definitely a PITA...

desertrunner
07-31-2018, 07:09 PM
What color loctite did you use? I never used it when I ran spacers. Just torqued, then a hundred miles later retorqued and they’d be good.


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Red... it's what came with the spacers, I feel like it's a bit excessive considering I don't put my tires on with any, but I may put a small dab of blue on it this time when I reinstall them

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Snboarder113
07-31-2018, 07:12 PM
Yeah red is way too much. Technically red ‘needs’ to be heated before removal


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QuicksilverJK
07-31-2018, 10:31 PM
I have always used red hand torqued to 100 lb/ft and remove with impact. Definitely harder removing with hand tools.


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bmkrinne
08-01-2018, 12:26 AM
Red Loctite is for shit you never plan to take apart and don’t ever want it to come loose. The blue stuff is a better choice for applications where you may need to take apart in the future. Blue is still plenty strong but comes apart without a torch. Glad everything worked out for you! [emoji106]


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desertrunner
08-01-2018, 02:48 AM
Red Loctite is for shit you never plan to take apart and don’t ever want it to come loose. The blue stuff is a better choice for applications where you may need to take apart in the future. Blue is still plenty strong but comes apart without a torch. Glad everything worked out for you! [emoji106]


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Yeah I agree red seems a bit excessive for something that may need to be removed often and blue will prevent it from coming loose just fine.

I did try to go to an auto parts store to find a stud that matched to no success guess I'll have to wait for the new one from dynatrac. Either way it should press in just fine and I'm not worried about it

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BaddestCross
08-01-2018, 03:03 AM
Maybe they use red because of the potential heat generated by the wheels/brakes? I used the red Spidertrax sent with the spacers as well.

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Snboarder113
08-01-2018, 09:59 PM
Maybe they use red because of the potential heat generated by the wheels/brakes? I used the red Spidertrax sent with the spacers as well.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407

They used red for the potential of getting sued if a whee falls off. Pretty much guaranteed they won’t come off if they ‘cant’ come off


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BaddestCross
08-01-2018, 10:08 PM
They used red for the potential of getting sued if a whee falls off. Pretty much guaranteed they won’t come off if they ‘cant’ come off


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Lol. If that's the case, I can't say I blame them. Also, I'd rather have a hard time taking them off instead of them potentially falling off, so I'm fine with it.

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QuicksilverJK
08-01-2018, 11:54 PM
I have never had something that can't come off because of locktite. Can't even remember having to use a torch because of it.


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Snboarder113
08-02-2018, 12:17 AM
I have never had something that can't come off because of locktite. Can't even remember having to use a torch because of it.


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Not so much can’t come off, just in this case stronger than the knurls on a pressed in stud.


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QuicksilverJK
08-02-2018, 12:27 AM
Not so much can’t come off, just in this case stronger than the knurls on a pressed in stud.


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Well played sir [emoji482]


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HighwayTrout
08-02-2018, 01:05 AM
I have never had something that can't come off because of locktite. Can't even remember having to use a torch because of it.

Same here

Not so much can’t come off, just in this case stronger than the knurls on a pressed in stud.


lol
Too soon.

JohnnyD8586
08-02-2018, 04:21 AM
So I was trying to take off my spacers tonight so I could get my rear rotors off and one of the spacers lugs will not come off..... when I try to loosen it goes from tight to really loose and back to tight but will not back off the stud it just keeps spinning.

Any ideas on how the fuck I'm supposed to get this off now? And what I might have done to the stud?

306708

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Can you get a real narrow sharp chisel in the well to split the nut?

jesse3638
08-02-2018, 05:49 AM
Can you get a real narrow sharp chisel in the well to split the nut?
He already removed it. Pulled the axle and tack welded the stud.

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desertrunner
08-07-2018, 04:11 AM
Ok guys dynatrac sent me out a new wheel stud, I pressed it in and torqued my lugs just fine looks like I'm good to go. I'm half tempted just to tac that one anyway just for some piece of mind but it is probably unnecessary

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BaddestCross
08-07-2018, 04:23 AM
Ok guys dynatrac sent me out a new wheel stud, I pressed it in and torqued my lugs just fine looks like I'm good to go. I'm half tempted just to tac that one anyway just for some piece of mind but it is probably unnecessary

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Glad Dynatrac came through and you were able to get it back together. 👍

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407

desertrunner
08-08-2018, 04:21 AM
Glad Dynatrac came through and you were able to get it back together. 👍

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
Yeah I have had 2 issues so far with dynatrac parts that were supplied with my trail leader package and they have been awesome in helping me out and haven't hesitated to send me new stuff for no charge. Great customer service

And I have taken off and re torqued my tires 3 times now since putting in the new stud and it holds just fine so I should be good to go

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