35" tires on factory Dana 30 axle (non rubicon)

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CombatVetJK

Banned
I have a 2008 JK Unlimited 3.5" lift with bilstein 5160 shocks antirock front and rear sway bars and factory fender chop to flat fenders.
I am currently running 33x12.50 tires on 17" rims with 0" offset. I want to upgrade to either 35's or 37's. I wheel it very often and I'm pretty hard on my jeep in the dirt. What is needed to be "safe" with larger tires, besides re gearing I have 3.73 now with an auto
 
StrizzyChris

StrizzyChris

New member
If you're currently running a 12.50" wide tire on 0 offset wheels, then is it safe to assume your running spacers? And if you already have chopped fenders and a 3.5" lift, youll be fine with your current set up to run 35's. You will want to trim your pinch seams though.

What year is your Jeep? If you have a 2012+, I would wait to see how you like the power in your stock gearing before re-gearing. As long as you recalibrate your speedo(an possibly tune it if you have a JK that diablo or superchips has a tune for). Otherwise a D30 R&P will get tall, thin and pretty weak in a re-gear over 4.88.
 
StrizzyChris

StrizzyChris

New member
:doh: 2008...yes I would run a tuner like superchips (re-gear or not) and see how much you hate the power. Otherwise, if you want factory power, a re-gear will be needed in the 3.8L slug!
 
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CombatVetJK

Banned
I have no spacers, wheels stick the tires out pretty far (see album for pics) I have the aev procal for its uses and I have a 2008 JK
 
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paychex.308

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Your 0" offset is not your BS I am too assume, so you need to find out what your BS is to be sure you will fit with issue. with 35 you might want to gusset maybe not sleeve but if you go 37 you will need to sleeve or truss. I would avoid axle shaft upgrades as you want those your weak link instead of your r&p on your 30. (please someone correct me if I am wrong there...)

andrew -
 
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CombatVetJK

Banned
Well when your 60's come in and u are ready to sell definitely let me know and give me a chance to buy them! How much u thinking?
 
StrizzyChris

StrizzyChris

New member
If your looking to do all this on a budget, and less likely to have breaks, I would stick to 35's. You can do 37's, but breaks are more likely.

paychex.308 said:
Your 0" offset is not your BS I am too assume, so you need to find out what your BS is to be sure you will fit with issue. with 35 you might want to gusset maybe not sleeve but if you go 37 you will need to sleeve or truss. I would avoid axle shaft upgrades as you want those your weak link instead of your r&p on your 30. (please someone correct me if I am wrong there...)

andrew -
Click to expand...

you are correct that BS and offest are two different things. BS is the distance from the inner(back side) wheel lip to the mounting surface of the wheel. Offset is the measurement of the mounting surface from the center of the wheel. If a 9" wide wheel has -1" offset, then it will have 3.5" backspacing. If you're running a stock wheel with larger and wider tires, then spacers would be needed to prevent rubbing.

The sleeve and truss issue is always debated as to whether you need to or not. Some say the welding process will weaken the axle tube, others swear by it. No one argues that C-gussets are not needed. I havent, and dont plan to do either so cant comment on personal experience of either being beneficial or detrimental. Maybe TrailBud will comment :cheesy:
 
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CombatVetJK

Banned
Ya 35's is the plan then, I stuck with 33's because I wheel it hard and wanted to be safe but my JK has outgrown the 33's. am I gonna gain that much from a true 33 to a 35?
 
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