Maybe a silly questions, maybe not

LUCCHESE

New member
Is the reason most people recommend getting a PR44 or a Currie 44, because after you upgrade everything on a rubi 44 to support 37s. The price kinda evens out? Or is it simple because the basic Dana 44 has the same weaknesses as a 30?

Just curious because I can get the gear set I want, a locker, and be ready to go for half the price. Then I would just have to lock and regear the rear.

Edit : I would probably stick with 4.88s. I live in Houston, and it's mainly flat and we take highways to get every where. I won't be smashing the thing either.
Thanks

-B
 
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jdofmemi

Active Member
What I understand is the Rubicon 44 has the same tube and C's the 30 has, and they are prone to bend or break with large tires and hard use.

The Pro Rock and others have thicker tubes and larger C's to withstand the abuse better.

There may be other things as well.
 

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
What I understand is the Rubicon 44 has the same tube and C's the 30 has, and they are prone to bend or break with large tires and hard use.

The Pro Rock and others have thicker tubes and larger C's to withstand the abuse better.

There may be other things as well.
That's pretty much it. The Recon did add larger knuckles to the 44 and slightly thicker tubes. But still not as big as aftermarket.

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zimm

Caught the Bug
If you already have a Rubicon, I would re-gear it and weld on C gussets. That's what I did. If I ever break or bend the housing, I can buy a bare Dynatrac pro-rock 44 housing and swap in my internals (assuming they're still good). They make a version that takes the stock rubicon locker and axles, as well as a version that takes an ARB locker. As mentioned the axle tubes are larger, much thicker, you can buy it with more caster built into the C's so you get a better driveshaft angle and a welded on high track bar bracket is an option that will support hydro ram assist steering and a drag link flip.
 
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Speedy_RCW

Hooked
If you already have a Rubicon, I would re-gear it and weld on C gussets. That's what I did. If I ever break or bend the housing, I can buy a bare Dynatrac pro-rock 44 housing and swap in my internals (assuming they're still good). They make a version that takes the stock rubicon locker and axles, as well as a version that takes an ARB locker. As mentioned the axle tubes are larger, much thicker, you can buy it with more castor built into the C's so you get a better driveshaft angle and a welded on high track bar bracket is an option that will support hydro ram assist steering and a drag link flip.

The flip side to what Zimm mentioned is you could also sell your Rubi 44 before you break or bend it to offset the cost of an aftermarket option, which is what I did. Used the $1800 I got from my front towards a PR44.


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Is the reason most people recommend getting a PR44 or a Currie 44, because after you upgrade everything on a rubi 44 to support 37s. The price kinda evens out? Or is it simple because the basic Dana 44 has the same weaknesses as a 30?

Just curious because I can get the gear set I want, a locker, and be ready to go for half the price. Then I would just have to lock and regear the rear.

Edit : I would probably stick with 4.88s. I live in Houston, and it's mainly flat and we take highways to get every where. I won't be smashing the thing either.
Thanks

-B

There are quite a few weak links in the factory JK Dana 30 and Dana 44 front axles, which is why we developed our ProRock 44. As others on this thread of pointed out, the thickness of the axle tubes is one issue which can lead to bending. The C forgings where the wheel ends are also very thin. These were both done from the factory to save weight for fuel economy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

Our ProRock 44 housing starts with a patented ProRock center section. This is the strongest center on the market and has the most ground clearance. In fact, our ProRock 44 gives you more ground clearance than a factory Dana 30. We offer two axle tube thicknesses: 0.3125 inch and 0.500 inch. We also offer the strongest C-forgings in the business, which we forge right here in the US along with all of our other axle components. We also offer 3 different track bar brackets depending on how much lift you have and if you ever want to use a hydraulic steering ram assist in the future. And we offer stock caster as well as our Unlimited housing which has more caster to work with suspension lifts taller than 3 inches.

Hope this information is useful!
 

LUCCHESE

New member
Sweet Christmas! Ahah, too much netflix . But thank you so much for the replies. My wife actually talked me into potentially just getting the trail leader. After I talked myself out of it. It makes the most sense. It would take my sport to a whole new level. Putting off all upgrades including tires I think to get my axles squared away.
 
Sweet Christmas! Ahah, too much netflix . But thank you so much for the replies. My wife actually talked me into potentially just getting the trail leader. After I talked myself out of it. It makes the most sense. It would take my sport to a whole new level. Putting off all upgrades including tires I think to get my axles squared away.

The Dynatrac Trail Leader package is great for those who run 37-inch tall tires or shorter. And the resale value of these items is pretty good if you decide to do more upgrades later.
 
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