Wheeling Queation

aaronstephen

New member
Going wheeling for the first time that is not on Sand Dunes. I know in sand you air down to about 12psi. But what about rocks and mud? Advice?


- aaron

Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

JK&Beyond

New member
You'll want to air down to about the same. :yup:

I've often wondered about wheeling psi in mud. It seems having them inflated a little more would help you out in mud as opposed to our normal low psi. Just curious as to how this works in mud. Can anyone clarify? [thread jacked sorry] :bummed:
 

jeff_in_rc

New member
Don't really have mud out here in the desert but I would think that when you air down and the tire flattens out it will help float a little in the mud giving you a larger footprint so to speak, could be wrong.
 

JK&Beyond

New member
Don't really have mud out here in the desert but I would think that when you air down and the tire flattens out it will help float a little in the mud giving you a larger footprint so to speak, could be wrong.

(Nice YJ in the avatar). So pretty much the same idea as rock crawling? Makes sense, I just heard a guy talking about airing his tires up so they would "float". I think he might have just been a redneck idiot (common around here). Thanks Jeff.
 

GCM 2

New member
I've often wondered about wheeling psi in mud. It seems having them inflated a little more would help you out in mud as opposed to our normal low psi. Just curious as to how this works in mud. Can anyone clarify? :bummed:

Before I lived out west, I grew up wheeling in mud and there are two schools of thought, both have their valid points. 1st school of thought- For the average guy, thats most of us, follow Wayoflife's advice and do what you would do in the sand or rocks and air down to the normal psi that is common. This is typically done with the tires and wheel widths we all commonly run (pretty wide 12.5-15"). These would be considered a "floatation" type of set up and works for most situations.

2nd school of thought- The true mud racer. These are pretty specific builds designed to do one thing, cut through mud really fast. The word "cut" is key here. This is achieved by running really tall, really skinny tires that you would see on a tractor plowing fields. Think of a tire the width between rows of corn, skinny. They usually don't air down, and even run water in the tires. The thought is to not float above or in the mud, but to slice through it with as little rolling resistance as possible. It's not about tire surface area like other forms of wheeling, but sinking into with skinny, really deep lugs (almost paddles) to hit bottom and get traction.

The best of both of these worlds for mudding on a multipurpose built rig (like we all have) is the Interco Super Swamper "Boggers". Wide, but with huge lug/paddles. Horrible on the street but will rule any environment off payment.

Air down those tires, learn to keep the RPMs high and keep momentum up. More importantly , post pictures when you return. Good luck.
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
(Nice YJ in the avatar). So pretty much the same idea as rock crawling? Makes sense, I just heard a guy talking about airing his tires up so they would "float". I think he might have just been a redneck idiot (common around here). Thanks Jeff.

Most of the time in mud people run skinnier tires to cut through it. (if its a mud rig) In my opinion if your going to just go out and do some donuts in a mud pit then leave the PSI the same as you drive with everyday. If your going to do a trail with other things besides mud then airing down would be a bad thing. As for airing up, I don't see why you would ever do that before going on a trail.:crazyeyes:
 

aaronstephen

New member
So now I'm completely confused. Lots of differing opinions. hmmmm...


- aaron

Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

JK&Beyond

New member
Before I lived out west, I grew up wheeling in mud and there are two schools of thought, both have their valid points. 1st school of thought- For the average guy, thats most of us, follow Wayoflife's advice and do what you would do in the sand or rocks and air down to the normal psi that is common. This is typically done with the tires and wheel widths we all commonly run (pretty wide 12.5-15"). These would be considered a "floatation" type of set up and works for most situations.

2nd school of thought- The true mud racer. These are pretty specific builds designed to do one thing, cut through mud really fast. The word "cut" is key here. This is achieved by running really tall, really skinny tires that you would see on a tractor plowing fields. Think of a tire the width between rows of corn, skinny. They usually don't air down, and even run water in the tires. The thought is to not float above or in the mud, but to slice through it with as little rolling resistance as possible. It's not about tire surface area like other forms of wheeling, but sinking into with skinny, really deep lugs (almost paddles) to hit bottom and get traction.

The best of both of these worlds for mudding on a multipurpose built rig (like we all have) is the Interco Super Swamper "Boggers". Wide, but with huge lug/paddles. Horrible on the street but will rule any environment off payment.

Air down those tires, learn to keep the RPMs high and keep momentum up. More importantly , post pictures when you return. Good luck.

Very informative. Thanks! There's a guy who lives down the street from me with a mud racer and I never understood his "silly" tractor tires. Now I do.
 

Dixon4x4

New member
So now I'm completely confused. Lots of differing opinions. hmmmm...


- aaron

Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Putting more air in for mud does nothing but make for a rougher ride, unless your tires are big enough to make you rig float. This would either take a really large tire. Mud racers with the tall skinny tires still only run 10-18 lbs. of air depending on the weight if their rig. If you are running anything off-road, air down your kidneys will appreciate it.


09 JKU
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

jeff_in_rc

New member
(Nice YJ in the avatar). So pretty much the same idea as rock crawling? Makes sense, I just heard a guy talking about airing his tires up so they would "float". I think he might have just been a redneck idiot (common around here). Thanks Jeff.

Thanks for the comment on my YJ! :clap2: That notch was a challange but fun at the same time.
And your welcome of course. :D
 

GCM 2

New member
So now I'm completely confused. Lots of differing opinions. hmmmm...

- aaron

Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Not different opinions, but different techniques of attacking the same environment. One works good, the other works GREAT, but you need a high horsepower vehicle built very specifically to make it do GREAT.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Not different opinions, but different techniques of attacking the same environment. One works good, the other works GREAT, but you need a high horsepower vehicle built very specifically to make it do GREAT.

Exactly, couldn't have said it better.
 

aaronstephen

New member
Ok. I'm on the same page. I appreciate your shared knowledge. Can't wait to hit the trails.


- aaron

Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

hunterbilt

New member
Over here in Texas we usually don't expect to play in mud until we see a big hole off the road. Usually I don't have time to blink before I'm off the road playing, let alone time to air down. As long as you don't try to completely stop you shouldn't really have to air down. Now when we go to mudfest a few times a year I air down to about 13-14.
 

Holeshot

Banned
Here's my input on this. I will do a kind of write-up so those who never wheeled in that kind of stuff will know a little more.

Where I am (north west of Quebec province), mud is 75% of the trails we have. There are several variant of mud. Here's a list;

-Swamps ; real wet black soil covered by moss, if you see cattail, don't even think about it. STAY AWAY from cattail. You could lose your jeep completely if it's deep enough. Where there is cattail, there is no bottom. If you want to float on the moss, it takes wide tires, like 13,5 or wider. Try not to spin your wheel or moss will start to tear and you'll dig yourself. If it start digging, either you stop and go back, or snap it WOT and pray. Personnaly, when it digs, I choose option 2 :D more funny but so f*ckin dirty. Try to choose your line carefully, stay away from stumps, and if you can, go off track and keep your momentum. It is the key. But beware, you could find logs and rocks underneath.

If you get stuck and have to winch yourself out, use your slings and go around several trees (usualy they are rare and young/short and easy to extract, so be carefull.
HPIM4183.jpg

And if you choose option #2, you'll end up with this in your mirrors :D so it might be helpful having a squeegee inside.
HPIM4182.jpg


- Black soil ; almost the same as swamps, but no moss, usually less deep.
this picture show soft black soil, almost dry but still soft.
2012-07-08 14.48.21.jpg 2012-07-08 14.47.02.jpg


-A thing we call gumbo, it is a clay covered terrain, VERY slippery, virtually no grip when its wet, and real hard when dry. If you get stuck in this, you'll get sucked. When your rig is covered by that, it'll be way more heavy. It sticks everywhere. Your tires won't clean themselves if you have enough power to make them spin, cuz gumbo takes lot of power out of your engine.
Notice on second pic, the mud doing a lip around the sidewalls.
P1010009.JPG P1010032.jpg

-The typical mud, its a mix between black soil, clay, and don't know what else. Has a brownish color, leaves big deep rut, mud holes, water holes.
18-05-08_1638.jpg
IMG_9610.jpg

Then again, if you choose option WOT, you'll end up with this :D
18-05-08_1611.jpg


Tire deflation is preferable in any kind of mud. Some deflate more than others. Depends if you have beadlocks or not, of if you want the "cut through" effect of to float above. Personnaly, since I don't have beadlocks, I always deflate to 12-15 psi, just enough for a smooth ride, you get side bitter traction on the ground, and it helps not perforate with sharp roots/rocks.

And a few other advices.

-keep your momentum
-Don't try to crawl on mud, use 4 low, 2nd or even 3rd gear sometimes, lot of engine juice, I mean A LOT, don't be affraid to go over 3500-4000rpm. You can reach the red line without fear of breaking your engine.
-Lock the rear if possible, not the front, to keep control (may be necessary lock the front in some cases though)
-Keep your thumbs outside the steering spokes, hit a hidden stump or rock when gasing through mud, you'll get a violent bump steer, which could break a thumb easily.
-Watch the truck in front of you going through it before you do, and notice if it bumps or sinks, it will help you to know how your jeep will react.


Hope that helps! :standing wave:
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom