Weekend Build- Recommended Sequence for Coilover Conversion

HI everyone-
I'm tackling my newest project starting later this afternoon but was hoping to get some recommendations or input on the sequence I should go in for EVO coilover conversion on my 2017 JKU. I intend to complete the following as part of this in the next 3 days:

Front Drive Shaft
Rear Drive Shaft
Front Coilover
Rear Coilover
Draglink Flip
All 8 Adjustable Control Arms

I have the benefit of garage with lift but unfortunately no high jack stands. My thought had been to remove everything necessary then start with the rear and move to the front. I guess I'm unsure of where in the sequence the replacing of the control arms and driveshafts should come in or whether I should remove them completely to make the coilover work easier or leave them alone and remove/replace afterwards.
 
J

JKDream

Guest
HI everyone-
I'm tackling my newest project starting later this afternoon but was hoping to get some recommendations or input on the sequence I should go in for EVO coilover conversion on my 2017 JKU. I intend to complete the following as part of this in the next 3 days:

Front Drive Shaft
Rear Drive Shaft
Front Coilover
Rear Coilover
Draglink Flip
All 8 Adjustable Control Arms

I have the benefit of garage with lift but unfortunately no high jack stands. My thought had been to remove everything necessary then start with the rear and move to the front. I guess I'm unsure of where in the sequence the replacing of the control arms and driveshafts should come in or whether I should remove them completely to make the coilover work easier or leave them alone and remove/replace afterwards.

I don't think it's really too big of a deal which part you install first.
If you are doing the control arms, I would probably do them one or two at a time.
So take one lower off, replace it with the new one, move onto the next.
If you take both lowers off at the same time, or all of the control arms at once, the axle is going to rotate a lot and make it harder to get them lined up again.
If this does happen to you (axle will probably rotate/move once you remove one of the arms) use a ratchet strap to re-position. Just wrap it around the axle and hook it up to the crossmember or front crash bar depending on which way to need the axle to move.
I couldn't see removing the control arms making the coilover install any easier.
Personally I would tackle the coilovers first, and leave the easier stuff for last.
 
I don't think it's really too big of a deal which part you install first.
If you are doing the control arms, I would probably do them one or two at a time.
So take one lower off, replace it with the new one, move onto the next.
If you take both lowers off at the same time, or all of the control arms at once, the axle is going to rotate a lot and make it harder to get them lined up again.
If this does happen to you (axle will probably rotate/move once you remove one of the arms) use a ratchet strap to re-position. Just wrap it around the axle and hook it up to the crossmember or front crash bar depending on which way to need the axle to move.
I couldn't see removing the control arms making the coilover install any easier.
Personally I would tackle the coilovers first, and leave the easier stuff for last.

Thanks. That had been my other thought to leave the more straightforward stuff for the end when I’m doubtlessly tired and frustrated.


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wjtstudios

Hooked
Also doing the arms one at a time helps keep the alignment close(assuming it was correct before you started). Wish I could give you some insight on the coil overs. Haven’t done that one yet. Drive shafts are easy. Hardest part for me was breaking the nut lose on the rear diff. I didn’t have a strong enough impact at the time. Good luck and post up some shots when it’s done.


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Also doing the arms one at a time helps keep the alignment close(assuming it was correct before you started). Wish I could give you some insight on the coil overs. Haven’t done that one yet. Drive shafts are easy. Hardest part for me was breaking the nut lose on the rear diff. I didn’t have a strong enough impact at the time. Good luck and post up some shots when it’s done.


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I’ll take some progress shots for sure. In regards to alignment, is there away to determine what to make up with the adjustability of the arms vs shifting the axle via ratchet strap? Or will it be fairly obvious?

I’m going from a 2” lift that has driven well for the last 1.5 years and had the alignment checked after I did it.


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wjtstudios

Hooked
I’ll take some progress shots for sure. In regards to alignment, is there away to determine what to make up with the adjustability of the arms vs shifting the axle via ratchet strap? Or will it be fairly obvious?

I’m going from a 2” lift that has driven well for the last 1.5 years and had the alignment checked after I did it.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Didn’t realize you were adding that much lift. As you adjust the arms, start by getting the yoke pointing at the TC as straight as you can to get the pinion angle correct, then start dialing in the caster. There are a couple threads on here about getting the caster angle close to factory. But keep in mind, the more angle you have on the pinion, the more driveline vibration you introduce. It’s a balance that takes some time.


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Didn’t realize you were adding that much lift. As you adjust the arms, start by getting the yoke pointing at the TC as straight as you can to get the pinion angle correct, then start dialing in the caster. There are a couple threads on here about getting the caster angle close to factory. But keep in mind, the more angle you have on the pinion, the more driveline vibration you introduce. It’s a balance that takes some time.


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Yeah I’ve bookmarked some of the alignment write ups and am hoping to have the majority of work done by Sunday so I can spend Monday with a fresh mind dialing it in.


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