Uneven air temperature in vent

Hi all

My passenger side vent gives a nice and hot air flow. Passenger middle air vent is also blazing hot and drivers middle vent is good but not as hot as passengers.

Drivers right vent at window is how ever really bad. Not ice cold but far far away from the heat on passenger side. This is not critical but also drivers feet vent is not warm and that is less funny in wintwer times. Ice cold feets is not so nice.

I´ve read about a bad heater core. So I flushed it today and also the radiator. I also empty the expension veassle to see if there was some dirt in the bottom but have to say it was very clean and nice. The antifreeze water was over all very clean both in radioator and heater core.


So, can it be something else? I´ve a hard time to think it is blender actuator since I do have real hot air on passenger side and ok warm om driver middle vent.

But I feel lost.

Is there some good way to clean the hetar core if that is the cultprit. Only flushing with water makes no difference. Can I flush it with some more agresive liquid?

Thanks!
 

PEACEMAKER1

New member
Since you have hot air in other vents, it wouldn't make me think the heater core is the problem. It could be something wrong with the actuators that direct air flow to the various vents. Maybe the drivers actuators are not working properly. It could also be that the air plenum/vent tubes on the drivers side become disconnected somehow...but I would find that a long shot unless you disassembled the dash prior to this problem. I would personally check the actuators and electronics controlling them.
 

rogerk93

New member
Ok I’m glad I was able to see this again because the day after this was posted I noticed the same thing in my Jeep. I was parked and the Jeep was running when I noticed it. My Jeep was already hot so I was confused why it was happening but then I hit the gas a little to rev it up to see if anything changes and as soon as I pressed the gas the driver side vent/and floor vent immediately got hot. It seems like when you are not hitting the has this occurs.


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woof359

Member
same problem

noticed the same thing Friday, checked the over flow bottle,it was low, when I get back sunday ill look in the radiator and see how low the water is, remember, JK's takes special anti freeze and you cant mix it with normal anti freeze, if you mix OEM anti freeze with normal anti freeze it turns it to Jell-O and you might have a pluged heater core, other than that, air mix door mix servo
 
I´ve never filled up more antifreeze so the antifreeze is all original.

But since I tried to flush the heater core I also changed as much antifreze as possible.

I know about the mix problem so I was verty carefull to get the right one and that is in my case HOAT antifreze. I bought OEM bottle.

I will check the actuators but I´ve read that very often it is a partially glogged heater core. But this is not anything I can back up my self, only read a lot of other post about partially glogged heater cores.
 
I had a striped gear in the actuator that opens or close the blender door for fresh or re circulate air into the cabin. the ones that sit behinds the "glove box" on passenger side. That was very noisy so if you do not have a very loud poping sound I do not think you have a striped gear in any of the actuators.

In a near future I will flush my heater core with boiling water and also put in radiator cleaning liquid for an hour or so and then flush again.

I will come back to this thread and tell how it goes. If possible I will avoid to change out the heater core since it is a ridiculous amount of work to do that. You have to take of the whole dashboard and everything that comes with it.
 

ThatJeepGuy

New member
I had a striped gear in the actuator that opens or close the blender door for fresh or re circulate air into the cabin. the ones that sit behinds the "glove box" on passenger side. That was very noisy so if you do not have a very loud poping sound I do not think you have a striped gear in any of the actuators.

In a near future I will flush my heater core with boiling water and also put in radiator cleaning liquid for an hour or so and then flush again.

I will come back to this thread and tell how it goes. If possible I will avoid to change out the heater core since it is a ridiculous amount of work to do that. You have to take of the whole dashboard and everything that comes with it.

I might try and take a look at the moving parts and see if one isn’t moving properly not loud noises however


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DMF

Active Member
There's a youtube video to show you where the blended door motor is located, behind the driver side dash (I do not have separate climate control). On mine, the pin came apart so while the motor ran when I change the temp from hot to cold, the door never change. I was able to just push the pin back into the arms. Also, we just replace a bad actuator on my friends 2013 yesterday, his motor completely died. You can get underneath your dash and adjust your temp control. If everything is working you should see a white plastic arm rotating back and forth.
 
Some update

Today I checked all the actuators and all 3 of them works.

So there is no problem with a actuator. I do get heat when turning knob to heat and cold when turning knob to cold. I can also see them moving. So in my mind it must be the heater core.

Today I flushed the heater core again. Used hot boiling water and a big vacum pump to get some action through the heater core. I also put boiling water mixed with cooling system cleaning fluid and let it sit for over one hour. Then flushed again with boiling water and last flushed with a garden hose with warm water.

Still bad heat on the driver side but good heat on the passenger side.

The strange thing is that there where not any kind of build up shit in the over fil tank and also thee cooling fluid when I empty the radiator was very nice looking. We could not see any debris, lumps or any kind of things that are not supposed to be in the heater core to come out. Nothing at all but clean nice antifreeze and of course when flushing only clear water.

So, can a heater core really be glogged up when it seems to be so clean? nothing bad come out what so ever.

So, any pro tip how to solve up very hard deposits in the heater core?

I do not feel very temtpted to tear down the whole dash to replace the heater core. Maybee going the method to make some cut in the structure for the dash to get out the core but is that ok regarding to structure strenght of the dash board? There is some short cut I´ve seen and if doing so it seems just to be 2 to 3 hours of work but not sure if I like to cut in the dash board structure. Any thoughts about that?

I can put up a link to a youtube film about that precedure if anyone is interested but not sure if that is against some rules . It is not a company, just a person in his garage showing how they swaped out the heater core with minimal work. The dealers ship way of replacing the heater core is involving a riddiculous amount of work.
 
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kta2402

New member
Hi,

I just had this event and it was -20 up here in Canada. My driver side vents were blowing freezing air.

Here is what I learned:

- check coolant level car cold take the coolant bottle out, if level under minimum add fluid in the tank.
- check your radiator cap, engine cold open the cap, start your car. If it starts filling up right away (engine cold) then you most probably have a stuck open thermostat.
- if you have an ODB2 gauge or a temperature coolant on your evic. See if the operating temperature gets over 210 F, if it doesn’t your engine is running cool because of stuck open thermostat. My coolant temp was oscillating from 190 to 160 consistently, sign the engine was always running cold. (This might only work if it is really cold outside)
- check your radiator cap if it is leaking, or just put a new one (about 10$)

Changing the thermostat is very easy, this was the problem in mine.

If you flushed your heater core already and you are getting some little heat just not in the drivers side, most probably it is fine.

Low coolant level is a big contributor to not getting enough hot coolant to the heater core

A stuck open thermostat will drain the coolant into the radiator before it gets a chance to get warm.

Hope this can help someone.


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mstraw9379

Member
I'm having the same issue. If I'm on the freeway heat is fine. Low speeds or coasting down a hill no heat. Airbound heater core?
 
I´ve tried to flush 3 times. Last time I used vinegar and let that sit for 36 hours. Heard that vinegar always work but unfortnately i did not this time.

My conclusion is that if the heater core have glooged to much it is impossible to unclogged it. It will just be to much and to much acumulated shit inside so it will be impossible to flush it. The channels inside is to small.

So I will change out the heater core. Fortnately you do not have to take out the whole dash. You "only" need to remove all the plastic panels and that should not be to much of a problem. once that is done there is a bracket in knee height that is bolted with 2 screws on the right side and one screw to the left side. At least on a right stearing jeep and I think it looks the same on a left steering jeep. take away the bracket and you can slide out the heater core but first you have to cut the pipes. then just use some tubes and clamps on the pipes when putting in the new heater core. Of course you have to cut the pipes on the new heater core at the same location.

I will order a new heater core and take a picture of the bracket when doing this. Proberly within 2 weeks or somethig like that.
 
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Changed out the heater core in weekend that was. Now it is heat in all wents.

I saw the old heater core in half and took a small screwdriver down in the tiny channels. They where full of some shit so no wonder it was not possible to flush out that shit. It was to compact.

Anyway, it is now warm and nice in the jeep.

I used the shortcut to change it out. Took of the dash panels and losen about 30 7 mm screws. then it was easy to pry out the plastic "skelleton" frame that the panels are attached to.

Then I cut the aluminium dash board frame and saw of the pipes to the heatr core. then it is just to slide out the heater core and put in the new one.

edit my previous post- there is no bolts on the frame, you must saw it of if you have a jeep with the steering wheel on the left so that means about 95 % of the word. Guys in Australia, England and so on are more lucky. they do not have to cut, only lose some bolts.
 
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