Need help correcting my rear sway bar angle

Braxtonsag

Braxtonsag

Member
I have been annoyed by the way my rear sway bar angles downward for almost a year now and I’d like to take care of it. I’m running a Rock Krawler 3.5” kit and they supplied solid rear end links that in my opinion are too short. I purchased the 4-6” fox shocks because of the longer travel and with my sway bar running downhill on flat ground I don’t think I am getting all of what these shocks have to give as far as downtravel.

Here is how it sits on flat ground
5C75D829-9E18-450A-91A1-967E57908574.jpg

I’m also getting ready to buy evo rockstar skids and that’lol add even more down travel which is why I’m ready to get this done. I’ve measured the current endlinks and I want to say they were 11” long but can’t remember for sure off the top of my head. Teraflex offers a 14.75” endlink and I think that will have it running slightly uphill but give me plenty of room to play with the added downtravel.

Any help greatly appreciated
 
desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
Definitely agree they look too short. Easiest thing to do is take them off move the sway bar about 5 degrees higher than parallel and measure the distance. Plenty of companies make adjustables and personally I went with Evo because they are Stout and you can adjust them on the vehicle without disconnecting them. None of my lift is a kit I cycled, measured and bought the specific part I wanted. Including front and rear sway bar links.

Side note though when you take those links off to measure I would definitely cycle your suspension and make sure you aren't going to unseat your springs by adding the Rockstars. I cycled and measured quite a few times to make sure it was all going to work together before pulling the trigger on stuff. Just my 2 cents

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Braxtonsag

Braxtonsag

Member
Good idea, I think I’ll be fine as far as the springs go. These Rock Krawler springs are long as hell uncompressed. The fronts are a complete PITA to take off without a lift. I’ll probbaly take em off like you suggested and measure that way. I’d rather have them slightly long than slightly short
 
Braxtonsag

Braxtonsag

Member
I was able to remove the links and cycle the sway bar up and down and it’s looking like I will contact the brake lines and bracket if I go with longer links. Now wtf do I do? This doesn’t seem to be a very common problem and I can’t find anyone else with the same issue lol
 
Whitarmy

Whitarmy

New member
If you put the bolt through the other way will it clear the brake lines and tire? That is how mine is set up and it worked fine when I pulled the springs and lifted the axle to the bump stops


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Braxtonsag

Braxtonsag

Member
Whitarmy said:
If you put the bolt through the other way will it clear the brake lines and tire? That is how mine is set up and it worked fine when I pulled the springs and lifted the axle to the bump stops


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Click to expand...

It’s not even the bolt contacting it, when it gets high enough it’s twisted so much that the actual arms make contact. I may try and just remove that Rock Krawler bracket and let it dangle as long as it’s not overly loose.
 
M

Masjkf84

Caught the Bug
Just a heads up if you add those rockstars your coils are going to unseat with those shocks. I’m running those shocks and rockstars and have that problem badly. Haven’t decided what I want to do about it yet.
 
Braxtonsag

Braxtonsag

Member
Masjkf84 said:
I thought they were the remote res ones. May be different and be fine for you. Disregard me. :)
Click to expand...

I think the travel is the same on them though, 10.6”. I remember looking into the remote res shocks a while back and decided to wait to upgrade until these went out. I wish there was an easier way to cycle the suspension without a lift. So difficult to do things in flat Indiana
 
Braxtonsag

Braxtonsag

Member
I still haven’t gotten around to jacking with this. If any of you have pics of your rear sway bar angle can you post it? I can’t decide whether to do 1” drop brackets on the sway bar or get longer links. With longer links I run the risk of hitting the RK brake line brackets. But at this point with the lower raised shock mounts im maxing out the downward travel of this sway bar before utilizing all of the downtravel I have available
 
Red Knight15

Red Knight15

Caught the Bug
Braxtonsag said:
I still haven’t gotten around to jacking with this. If any of you have pics of your rear sway bar angle can you post it? I can’t decide whether to do 1” drop brackets on the sway bar or get longer links. With longer links I run the risk of hitting the RK brake line brackets. But at this point with the lower raised shock mounts im maxing out the downward travel of this sway bar before utilizing all of the downtravel I have available
Click to expand...

I went with the extended links on mine. I’m running the Fox2.0 shocks for 4-6” lift.
How you like the Rock Crawler Springs? Thinking about changing mine, I’m running Rusty’s 3.25” springs with 3/4” spacers and they will unseat a little. But I’m not running Rockstars yet, planning on it sooner or later
 
Braxtonsag

Braxtonsag

Member
Red Knight15 said:
I went with the extended links on mine. I’m running the Fox2.0 shocks for 4-6” lift.
How you like the Rock Crawler Springs? Thinking about changing mine, I’m running Rusty’s 3.25” springs with 3/4” spacers and they will unseat a little. But I’m not running Rockstars yet, planning on it sooner or later
Click to expand...

I actually really like them. My ride is a bit rough but I’m pretty sure it’s because of how light my jk is as opposed to most other jkus. If I didn’t have these I’d have the evo plush rides. One thing I really like about these though is that they’re long as hell and I’m not sure I could make them unseat even if I wanted to. That all may change once I get this rear sway angle fixed though
 
sm31

sm31

Active Member
I had similar issues... in a fit of frustration I just left it disconnected. My Clayton Overland suspension has decently high spring rates, and I really haven't missed the bar at all. At this point I have no plans to reconnect it & I'll probably remove it altogether one of these days.

Not exactly an appropriate solution for everyone but one that worked for me...
 
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