JK 2dr Rubi Build

bear996

Member
So it's been long overdue for a build on my rig. I bought it slightly modified back in 2016. It's a 2014 JK Rubicon 2 door manual. Currently running a Skyjacker 2.5" lift installed by a shop by the original owner. Also 33" mud claw mud terrains on stock hard rock rims. Running a Smittybilt SRC front and rear bumpers. I believe I'm running mopar non adjustable control arms best I can tell. They're definitely not Skyjacker arms, and the part numbers from what I can find online are mopar #'s. So, here's what I've got on the list.

Rock Krawler 2.5" Flex Kit with Bilstein 5100's
Yukon 4.88 gears
Front and Rear axle seals (mine are seeping)
Rugged Ridge XHD Wheels with Rim Protectors
35" Nitto Ridge Grapplers
Rigid pod lights to replace my old LED cree pods that are pretty awful for lighting the roadway (I plan on adding more lights in the future)
Replacing old stock cable on my Smittybilt winch to synthetic. Also adding some underlighting (likely the Wal Mart lights for rock lights).

We primarily use the Jeep for forest service roads to gain access to backpacking trails, occasionally we'll go to an off road park, but mostly back roads and overlanding. I want something that travels well on the road, and can handle the moderate trails we rarely throw at it (may do more when I actually learn how to drive a manual off road).

Tips or suggestions for this build? All of this is going on at once, and I'll be adding things little by litter as I go afterwards.
 

rubiDave

Active Member
Check your wheel backspace and bumpstop height. To carry 35s you would be better with a wheel that has at least 4.5 inches of backspace so they don't rub on the LCAs at full lock. You could add 1.25 wheel spacers to those wheels for slightly wider stance.
If your fenders are not trimmed you will need a full 3 inches of bumpstop so they don't rub on the fenders at full stuff.
You didn't mention your driveline. At a minimum exhaust spacers, but preferably a new front driveshaft. Being a 2 door, the rear stock shaft will also have a reduced service life and will need to be replaced eventually. When you do go add an aftermarket rear driveshaft, you will need adjustable rear control arms to adjust the rear pinion angle.
That lift should give you a better ride than the skyjacker. I've read some complaints/warnings about the RK control arm end joints, but I know someone running them without issue. General consensus here is that Johnny joints on the control arms are better (Currie, EVO, Core4x4) and so that's what I went with.

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rubiDave

Active Member
One more thing...
Your new tires and wheels are going to be about 50% heavier than stock and larger in diameter. This will increase the stress on your axle, ball joints and steering components. If you haven't already installed C gussets and upgraded ball joints this would be a good time, while your axle is apart for seals and regear. Also inspect tierod and draglink ends for wear and replace/upgrade if needed.

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bigmase33

New member
Nothing against rock krawler but i feel like for the price of the flex kit you could get something that gives you a better ride. I drove a friends jeep with their 3.5 in xfactor kit and it was pretty stiff. Ride quality is subjective though tbh. I would look at the 2 in rancho sport kit for a better and cheaper alternative or maybe the synergy start kit.
 

desertrunner

Active Member
Nothing against rock krawler but i feel like for the price of the flex kit you could get something that gives you a better ride. I drove a friends jeep with their 3.5 in xfactor kit and it was pretty stiff. Ride quality is subjective though tbh. I would look at the 2 in rancho sport kit for a better and cheaper alternative or maybe the synergy start kit.
I'd have to agree with this. I had the 3.5 xfactor on my old 08 JKUR and had nothing but problems with it. The ride was really stiff, their control arm joints sucked, the rear 2" "stretch" is a joke and I tore most of it out before selling that rig. This was quite a few years ago so I know some of the components in their kit have changed since then but I'd be hard pressed to recommend that kit. Also on a 2dr you are gonna sit way higher than 3.5" with that kit. In fact on my current 2dr I'm running Evo 2" plush rides with a 3/4" spacer up front OME med duty rear springs and a set of rancho 9000 shocks on 37s and the ride is pretty nice.

Edit: my bad just saw you said 2.5" not 3.5" so disregard the comment about how high it would sit. I think you can still expect more like 3.5" total net lift out of there 2.5" kit though

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Glen1978

New member
I had RK kit before on my first JKUR.....meh. I built my own this time and it is TITS! Nailed it on the build.

2014 JKUR
cut fenders
3" Evo coils
Core 4x4 front LCA and rear UCA with JJ's on both ends
Rock Krawler 3" bump stop kit F/R
Rock Krawler sway bar end links F/R (could have used factory rears in the front and saved that money)
Crown ext brake lines (didnt need fronts as I cut the factory retainer bracket off and used OEM ones, could have saved money and only bought rear)
Factory track bars F/R with Synergy weld on bracket in front and Artec weld on bracket in rear
Rancho 9000 shocks F/R
Synergy tie rod insert on passenger knuckle and Crown RHD drag link flipped
37" Mastercraft Courser MXT tires (they run small for a 37") but ride well.

Set caster at 4.5 degrees, didnt check toe, didnt put the factory steering stabilizer back on as I wanted to see how it drove. Drives one finger, smooth as a caddy, wheels good, not one complaint!
 
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