Rear locker issues

Samuelh3

Samuelh3

Caught the Bug
Beyond frustrated. Took my Jeep to a local shop that used to do great work. Among other things I had them service the diffs and repair a small pinion leak, which they were responsible for as they did the original work. After getting it back two weeks later due to parts not arriving the rear lockers would not disengage. I found the drain plug was leaking and was barely hand tight. Took it back and they offered to rebuild the rear from scratch. Got it back last week and now a different problem. I plan to take it back and have them fix it but wanted to get an idea of what it might be before I do.

Here’s what’s going on.

When I engage the rear locker, the locker indicator continues to flash even tho the rear locker is clearly engaged.

When I turn off the locker the indicator turns off as if it’s disengaged but the rear stays locked. When I open the full plug and look inside the “locker plate” is all the way to the passenger side which I believe is the unlocked position.

Prior to turning on the rear locker the rear diff was operating as expected - limited slip.

Any ideas? My gut tells me it’s something to do with the wiring.


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fiend

fiend

Caught the Bug
If it’s an OEM locker it’s an open diff, not limited slip, with the locker disengaged.

Sounds like maybe a sensor issue. Did the remember to install the sensor plunger before reinstalling the carrier/locker?


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Samuelh3

Samuelh3

Caught the Bug
fiend said:
If it’s an OEM locker it’s an open diff, not limited slip, with the locker disengaged.

Sounds like maybe a sensor issue. Did the remember to install the sensor plunger before reinstalling the carrier/locker?


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Click to expand...

Not Sure. No way for me to tell without opening it up. I refuse to work on it given I paid someone to do that.


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A

Attenuator

Member
Most likely the diff was put back in and the sensor plunger was not placed correctly before insertion.

I recommend doing all your own work. Never met a mechanic I could trust... It's a steep learning curve, but just think about all the tools you will acquire. not to mention knowledge.
 
Samuelh3

Samuelh3

Caught the Bug
Attenuator said:
Most likely the diff was put back in and the sensor plunger was not placed correctly before insertion.

I recommend doing all your own work. Never met a mechanic I could trust... It's a steep learning curve, but just think about all the tools you will acquire. not to mention knowledge.
Click to expand...

Doing gears and welding are the two things I don’t feel comfortable with. Only reason I had them service the diff was because the pinion seal was leaking from when they originally did the work.

Now they are saying the rear axle shafts are too long and that’s what’s causing it. Which makes no sense. That would mean it was constantly binding with the spider gears and would have been locked even before engaging the rear locker.


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TrailHunter

TrailHunter

Hooked
Have you visually inspected the connector that goes into diff housing.... is it damaged? You could also buy a new one and swap it out pretty easy. If that doesn't fix it, then maybe the plunger wasn't held out correctly during install like stated before. To fix that, you would have to remove the carrier, (keeping track of all the shims etc..) hold the plunger out (there is a trick on youtube to do this) then reinstall..... seems pretty straight forward, just time consuming. Or take it back and have them fix it.... since they fucked it up.
 
A

Attenuator

Member
Samuelh3 said:
Doing gears and welding are the two things I don’t feel comfortable with. Only reason I had them service the diff was because the pinion seal was leaking from when they originally did the work.

Now they are saying the rear axle shafts are too long and that’s what’s causing it. Which makes no sense. That would mean it was constantly binding with the spider gears and would have been locked even before engaging the rear locker.


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Click to expand...

That's understandable, to each their own.

Are the shafts aftermarket? Reason I ask is, Rubicon shafts are 2 different lengths AND they are different lengths from non-rubicon D44 rear axle.
If someone installed a non rubi shaft on a short side rubi axle, it would indeed go too far in to the differential.
 
Zstairlessone

Zstairlessone

New member
Samuelh3 said:
Doing gears and welding are the two things I don’t feel comfortable with. Only reason I had them service the diff was because the pinion seal was leaking from when they originally did the work.

Now they are saying the rear axle shafts are too long and that’s what’s causing it. Which makes no sense. That would mean it was constantly binding with the spider gears and would have been locked even before engaging the rear locker.


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Click to expand...

They fucked the job more than once, are you sure going back there is a good choice?


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schnauzer

schnauzer

Member
I never would have thought TIPM I was initially thinking they bent or broke the plunger on the locker status sensor.

Now that the gears are set, draining the diff, inspecting and refilling is not big deal at all. Order a lube locker and you don’t even need to mess with sealant so the hardest part would be refilling and checking the level.


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