Tips, drag link and tie rod removal

desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
Anyone have pro tips for removing the drag link and tie rod completely?

Leave the tires on, strap down the steering wheel so the pitman arm doesn't move, do the pitman side first?
Anything like that to make my day go a little faster without figuring it out on my own.

I have done all this before with the axle swap minus removing drag link from the pitman arm, but I had so much tore out there wasn't really any tricks to make it faster haha. I do have a pickle fork and multiple BFHs

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A.J.

A.J.

Active Member
desertrunner said:
Anyone have pro tips for removing the drag link and tie rod completely?

Leave the tires on, strap down the steering wheel so the pitman arm doesn't move, do the pitman side first?
Anything like that to make my day go a little faster without figuring it out on my own.

I have done all this before with the axle swap minus removing drag link from the pitman arm, but I had so much tore out there wasn't really any tricks to make it faster haha. I do have a pickle fork and multiple BFHs

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You've pretty much got it figured out. Measure the old ones so you can make the new ones the same. Saves time setting toe etc. personally I would probably tackle tie rod first. Set toe with tape measure then drag link and straighten steering wheel.


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HighwayTrout

HighwayTrout

Hooked
Anyone have factory specs? Measurements of TRE to TRE for both drag link and tie rod?

I think they were in my flip kit instructions. But that might help you. Pull off old, measure new ones and slap em on. Adjust toe and steering wheel if needed.
 
rubiDave

rubiDave

Active Member
desertrunner said:
Anyone have pro tips for removing the drag link and tie rod completely?

Leave the tires on, strap down the steering wheel so the pitman arm doesn't move, do the pitman side first?
Anything like that to make my day go a little faster without figuring it out on my own.

I have done all this before with the axle swap minus removing drag link from the pitman arm, but I had so much tore out there wasn't really any tricks to make it faster haha. I do have a pickle fork and multiple BFHs

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Click to expand...
I've also seen pickle fork attachments for an air chisel but have never tried them. Remove the castle nuts completely then thread back on by hand about 1 turn so the tie rod or drag link doesn't fall out when it breaks free.

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desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
Measured out the old ones so I have a place to start. I'm just getting all the old stuff out and get the holes drilled and reamed. My Exodus set should be here Tuesday.

The only one that for some reason has me nurvous is the pitman arm side, idk why. I'll prob strap down the steering wheel even it it's not necessary

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MSJKU11

MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
I just dropped my draglink and it's really nothing major even from the pitman side. Just a little harder to get to, I used that ball joint seperator tool from your local auto store. I had to disconnect the knuckle first so I could rotate the arm so I could get the tool on the pitman side.

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desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
Sweet got it all out really nothing cosmic now to double check some other threads for the rest of it.

7/8" drill bit ready for the knuckle drag link flip. Should be pretty self explanatory, drill through the top haha

Reamer ready was going to hand ream the knuckles for the tie rod then see what I can do with the pitman arm.

I don't have the DL/TR right now so reaming now makes me nurvous but as long as I just do a tiny bit it should be fine
Don't know how the pitman arm will go though

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rubiDave

rubiDave

Active Member
desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
rubiDave said:
Yeah, ought to work.
I did mine on a drill press since I had the knickles off to replace ball joints. Made it a lot easier than a hand drill.
Good luck with the taper reamer.

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Yeah a drill press would have been nice, but it should be good enough.
Tie rod holes are reamed those went pretty easy and I did them maybe slightly less than I think I should until I get the actual tie rod to fit up to it.

Putting my track bar in the upper hole now before I tackle the pitman arm ream

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Exodus 4x4

Exodus 4x4

New member
desertrunner said:
Yeah a drill press would have been nice, but it should be good enough.
Tie rod holes are reamed those went pretty easy and I did them maybe slightly less than I think I should until I get the actual tie rod to fit up to it.

Putting my track bar in the upper hole now before I tackle the pitman arm ream

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The pitman arm is whole lot easier to ream out if you pull it off and put it in a vise.


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desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
Exodus Jeeps said:
The pitman arm is whole lot easier to ream out if you pull it off and put it in a vise.


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Click to expand...
Okie dokie new question then since I have never touched a pitman arm any tips for that one?

Pb blaster for a few days, mark the arm and the box so you can line them back up, rent a puller?
Obviously the bungie cords on my steering wheel arent gonna hold it in place to remove the arm.
Put the DL back on so it doesn't move as much?

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