Best way to lift yj
- Thread starter jeremey
- Start date
Indefatigable
New member
What are you trying to do with the Jeep? What kind of driving? Wheeling?
Why do you want to change the suspension?
I had a 95 that I put a 4.5" Rubicon Express kit into. Worked nicely. Rode better than most I had experienced. With TJ flares and a little body lift, I ran 35s without issue.
Why do you want to change the suspension?
I had a 95 that I put a 4.5" Rubicon Express kit into. Worked nicely. Rode better than most I had experienced. With TJ flares and a little body lift, I ran 35s without issue.
jeepcj
New member
I have cj w/ outboarded RE1444 and RE1445 specifically designed for SOA, and am running scout D44's. It flexes pretty well, as yj springs do over cj's anyway because they are flatter, having less arch. I like my set up, but it is really about what your going to use it for.
There are other considerations needed for running a SOA, such as axle wrap.
Sent from my SCH-I405 using WAYALIFE mobile app
There are other considerations needed for running a SOA, such as axle wrap.
Sent from my SCH-I405 using WAYALIFE mobile app
yj lift
so i plan on doing alot of fordyce, rubicon, and moonrocks since i live a couple hrs away from all of them. I rub against my fenders in the rear right now when i flex more than 4" or 5". I dont want to go crazy with this jeep and make it a trailer rig. Just trying to get a little more clearence but still want to keep my center of gravity low.
so i plan on doing alot of fordyce, rubicon, and moonrocks since i live a couple hrs away from all of them. I rub against my fenders in the rear right now when i flex more than 4" or 5". I dont want to go crazy with this jeep and make it a trailer rig. Just trying to get a little more clearence but still want to keep my center of gravity low.
Indefatigable
New member
What are you running for fender flares?
If still the stock YJ, I would suggest looking at changing to TJ flares. The TJ cut out helps alot. You basically take the lip off starting at the top of the fender opening and then as you work down to the back, you cut more and more. About 4-5" off the inside of the fender.
Makes for alot more room out back.
Here are a couple of installs
http://bc4x4.com/tech/2001/tjflares/
http://bc4x4.com/pv/yj/tjflares/
If still the stock YJ, I would suggest looking at changing to TJ flares. The TJ cut out helps alot. You basically take the lip off starting at the top of the fender opening and then as you work down to the back, you cut more and more. About 4-5" off the inside of the fender.
Makes for alot more room out back.
Here are a couple of installs
http://bc4x4.com/tech/2001/tjflares/
http://bc4x4.com/pv/yj/tjflares/
Saharaunlmtd
Caught the Bug
If u haven't done so yet, chopping the fenders and running TJ flares is your best option. I ran TJ flares, 2.5" spring lift, 1.5" shackle lift, and 3" body lift on my old YJ to clear 37s.
thanks 4 the idea
EODRubicon
New member
How tall?
I understand the terrain your wheeling, but how much clearance do you need and are you worried about your COG. I might have missed it but is your rig sprung over and what axles are you running. Im in the pacific NW so our terrain is a little different and I had a pretty wild setup on my YJ. I to was running 35s but my rig had bushwhacker flares on it when I bought it. If you have the mechanical skills and your not looking for a "out of the box" lift then maybe look into a couple of these options. I was sprung over with a 7 pack of wagoneer springs and shackle reversal in the front and I ran 3. 25 lift shackles with a cherokee add a leaf in the rear. The hard part about this was the shackle reversal in the front. Cutting grinding welding, the usual fab, not to mention i had to make a new driveshaft. If you have the coin you can just buy a Tom Woods. I was using this rig to hone my fab skills so I built my shaft. I took a steering shaft off of a semi, necked out the weld on a lathe and welded it back into a piece of 2" .120 wall DOM and put a CV from a cherokee on it. It was perfect. I had a custom driveshaft that had an 18in spline with CV and I was only about 150 to 200 bucks into it. There are a lot of little tricks you can do to yours, the key is getting your hands dirty and tailoring your rig to be exactly what you want.
I understand the terrain your wheeling, but how much clearance do you need and are you worried about your COG. I might have missed it but is your rig sprung over and what axles are you running. Im in the pacific NW so our terrain is a little different and I had a pretty wild setup on my YJ. I to was running 35s but my rig had bushwhacker flares on it when I bought it. If you have the mechanical skills and your not looking for a "out of the box" lift then maybe look into a couple of these options. I was sprung over with a 7 pack of wagoneer springs and shackle reversal in the front and I ran 3. 25 lift shackles with a cherokee add a leaf in the rear. The hard part about this was the shackle reversal in the front. Cutting grinding welding, the usual fab, not to mention i had to make a new driveshaft. If you have the coin you can just buy a Tom Woods. I was using this rig to hone my fab skills so I built my shaft. I took a steering shaft off of a semi, necked out the weld on a lathe and welded it back into a piece of 2" .120 wall DOM and put a CV from a cherokee on it. It was perfect. I had a custom driveshaft that had an 18in spline with CV and I was only about 150 to 200 bucks into it. There are a lot of little tricks you can do to yours, the key is getting your hands dirty and tailoring your rig to be exactly what you want.
BlackDiamondBound
New member
forget flares if its going to be trailered bust out the sawzall 
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Jeeper4life.
New member
Here's my 95 YJ with 2 inch BDS springs, 1.5 inch shackle lift and a 1 inch body lift. Its on 33's. It worked well, I don't own it anymore as I have a TJ now but I was happy with that set up..
