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View Full Version : Spend money on D30 upgrades?



jscribn1
10-07-2019, 01:30 PM
I know this will be an unpopular question with the easy answer being upgrade to a built D44 but I can't afford $5k for a new axle at the moment so here goes. I bought my 2012 JKU Sport already semi built. It has the D30 up front with the following upgrades already done: Trussed on the tubes only, Chromoly axle shafts, 4.10 gears with Eaton Elocker, and ball joints. I talked to a local Jeep place and he said since I have those upgrades already and don't have $5k to shell out he recommended the following: Sleeve the tubes, gusset the C's and put new Synergy ball joints in. He said that would be about $800 installed. I'm running 37's now and don't wheel it real hard but would like a little piece of mind. Let me know what you think if it's a waste of money or will these added items actually be worth it.

Red Knight15
10-07-2019, 01:33 PM
Gusset the Cís and call it done


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WJCO
10-07-2019, 01:41 PM
Don't waste money on sleeves. Numerous housing have still broken even with them installed. As far as ball joints, if they aren't worn out, don't worry about them. If they are worn out, then yes replace them.

fiend
10-07-2019, 01:43 PM
Do the gussets. Donít bother with the sleeves. No need to replace ball joints until yours are worn out. Use the front locker sparingly. When the 37s wear out, go to 35s. Have fun.


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jscribn1
10-07-2019, 02:02 PM
Do the gussets. Donít bother with the sleeves. No need to replace ball joints until yours are worn out. Use the front locker sparingly. When the 37s wear out, go to 35s. Have fun.


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Everything I've seen says you need to do ball joints when welding the gussets because of the proximity of the heat?

jscribn1
10-07-2019, 02:02 PM
Don't waste money on sleeves. Numerous housing have still broken even with them installed. As far as ball joints, if they aren't worn out, don't worry about them. If they are worn out, then yes replace them.

So you recommend C gussets only?

WJCO
10-07-2019, 02:10 PM
Everything I've seen says you need to do ball joints when welding the gussets because of the proximity of the heat?

If you put cold wet rags on the ball joint while welding and switch welds from side to side, ball joint replacement isn't necessary.

jscribn1
10-07-2019, 04:16 PM
If you put cold wet rags on the ball joint while welding and switch welds from side to side, ball joint replacement isn't necessary.
Great, thanks for the replies!

jeeeep
10-08-2019, 12:25 AM
Gusset the Cís and call it done
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If you put cold wet rags on the ball joint while welding and switch welds from side to side, ball joint replacement isn't necessary.


This ^^^ unless they are worn out, save your money.

If your ball joints are worn and need replacement, ask them to quote Crown HD ball joints - I believe they are 1/2 the price and also make sure they do not use knurled.

If they tell you the ball joints will be ruined when they weld the gussets, find another shop.

I had a muffler shop weld my gussets and they used the method described by WJCO.

OverlanderJK
10-08-2019, 02:12 AM
How many miles on it? $800 is pretty good for gussets, sleeves and ball joints with parts and labor. I wouldnít recommend sleeves so I would probably see what his price is without those. Ball joints are probably 1.5 hours labor each side and thatís probably on the low side.


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jscribn1
10-26-2019, 03:41 PM
How many miles on it? $800 is pretty good for gussets, sleeves and ball joints with parts and labor. I wouldnít recommend sleeves so I would probably see what his price is without those. Ball joints are probably 1.5 hours labor each side and thatís probably on the low side.


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63k on the odometer but the ball joints were replaced once already by the previous owner, just not sure when but all the tests I do they seem fine. I've decide to take the advice given here and just do the C gussets. I'll only do the ball joints if they are bad. My guy said no problem doing them the cold wet rag method. I've also decided to raise my track bar by cutting off the stock mount and using the Artec weld on raised mount. I'll also flip the drag link at the same time to keep the good geometry between track bar and drag link. Thanks again for all the replies, you guys are a wealth of knowledge.