ATX Slab install write-up

MTG

Caught the Bug
So I am fairly sure that I think I know what I might be doing. :crazyeyes:

Has anyone seen a good write up for the Slabs or the sypderlocks? I freely admit it is a whole lot easier to do when you are following the advice of someone who has done it before.

If so, post it here.

If no, I guess I bust out the camera and try to make one.
 

Rock-itman

New member
So I am fairly sure that I think I know what I might be doing. :crazyeyes:

Has anyone seen a good write up for the Slabs or the sypderlocks? I freely admit it is a whole lot easier to do when you are following the advice of someone who has done it before.

If so, post it here.

If no, I guess I bust out the camera and try to make one.

x2 & Subscribed ! :rock:
 

FoxC

New member
So I am fairly sure that I think I know what I might be doing. :crazyeyes:

Has anyone seen a good write up for the Slabs or the sypderlocks? I freely admit it is a whole lot easier to do when you are following the advice of someone who has done it before.

If so, post it here.

If no, I guess I bust out the camera and try to make one.

Send them down to me. I'll mount them on my rig and then give you a report...:brows:
 

MTG

Caught the Bug
Send them down to me. I'll mount them on my rig and then give you a report...:brows:

At the rate I'm going we just might be putting them on the night before the marathon run. :cheesy:
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Your Slabs should come with instructions printed on one of the cardboard panels. At least, torque specs should be on it. Aside from that, all you need to do is to work your wheel onto the tire - bead locking side first. Soapy water will help you to do this. Then, place the wheel (non-beadlock side down) and tire onto a 5 gal paint bucket - this will help push the locking side upward. Use more soapy water and a dead blow hammer to help seat the bead onto the lip of the wheel. Place the ring on top of the tire and slowly start to thread in a few bolts directly across from each other to help align things. Thread in the read of the bolts and then start ratchting away. Make sure to use a torque wrench to finish up the job. If you can, set yourself up in front of a TV as it's a long boaring job.
 

GCM 2

New member
What Wayoflife said.....

Basically Mike, all beadlock wheels are mounted using the same principals. The ring ft/lbs torque specs might be the only thing that differs from mfg to mfg, but the techinque you put the tire on and the way you tighten the bolts down seems to be the same. Its all Googleable Lots of videos on the interwebs
 

rtguy1

New member
The slabs have that extra lip on them that other beadlocks do not have. It is a major bitch to get the tire over that lip, at least the last 1/4 of the tire. Is this the issue you are having? Lol. I bet it is. What you can do is get some bolts and washers to hold the part of the bead that you have in place while working the last bit of the tire on. Once you get it all seated pull them off and use the long bolts to get the ring started an swap with the normal ones one by one and play the torque game. That extra lip blows. If the tire slips off when you remove the washers than use the ring with long Bolts to hold the section in place while seating the rest, then switch out the bolts to shorter ones once its clamping down. I've been eyeing trail ready since they are a bit easier to mount and made in the USA, although the slabs are purdy too;). Hope this helps you somewhat
 

rtguy1

New member
Seems like no one here has actually mounted these themselves? :thinking: they def have an extra lip that other beadlocks do not have
 

Moochie

Active Member
I had Discount Tire put the tires on the wheels and I installed the rings. Took them back to Discount and they aired them up to set the rear bead. They then balanced and installed them for me.
 

MTG

Caught the Bug
Your Slabs should come with instructions printed on one of the cardboard panels. At least, torque specs should be on it. Aside from that, all you need to do is to work your wheel onto the tire - bead locking side first. Soapy water will help you to do this. Then, place the wheel (non-beadlock side down) and tire onto a 5 gal paint bucket - this will help push the locking side upward. Use more soapy water and a dead blow hammer to help seat the bead onto the lip of the wheel. Place the ring on top of the tire and slowly start to thread in a few bolts directly across from each other to help align things. Thread in the read of the bolts and then start ratchting away. Make sure to use a torque wrench to finish up the job. If you can, set yourself up in front of a TV as it's a long boaring job.

Thanks.

The instructions also read "Tires should only be installed by a professional tire installer with beadlock wheel experience." :cheesy:
 

MTG

Caught the Bug
Basically Mike, all beadlock wheels are mounted using the same principals. The ring ft/lbs torque specs might be the only thing that differs from mfg to mfg, but the techinque you put the tire on and the way you tighten the bolts down seems to be the same. Its all Googleable Lots of videos on the interwebs

Oh I know and I've watched them. There are some...uh...interesting characters in the jeeping world. ;)
 

MTG

Caught the Bug
The slabs have that extra lip on them that other beadlocks do not have. It is a major bitch to get the tire over that lip, at least the last 1/4 of the tire. Is this the issue you are having? Lol. I bet it is. What you can do is get some bolts and washers to hold the part of the bead that you have in place while working the last bit of the tire on. Once you get it all seated pull them off and use the long bolts to get the ring started an swap with the normal ones one by one and play the torque game. That extra lip blows. If the tire slips off when you remove the washers than use the ring with long Bolts to hold the section in place while seating the rest, then switch out the bolts to shorter ones once its clamping down. I've been eyeing trail ready since they are a bit easier to mount and made in the USA, although the slabs are purdy too;). Hope this helps you somewhat

Not having any issues (yet) other than a distinct lack of time to get this done. :)
 

MTG

Caught the Bug
I had Discount Tire put the tires on the wheels and I installed the rings. Took them back to Discount and they aired them up to set the rear bead. They then balanced and installed them for me.

Did yours come with a thread in valve stem as referenced in the instructions or just the pull through type?
 

Moochie

Active Member
Did yours come with a thread in valve stem as referenced in the instructions or just the pull through type?

I didn't do anything with the valves. Either they were already in or Discount installed them.
 

GCM 2

New member
Oh I know and I've watched them. There are some...uh...interesting characters in the jeeping world. ;)

Haha! Yes there are some videos that are interesting!

Seems like no one here has actually mounted these themselves? :thinking: they def have an extra lip that other beadlocks do not have

I have mounted these and many other types of beadlocks. The ATX Slabs have the same lip my Walker Evans have. AEV Pintlers have the same lip too, it's there to center the tire on the rim. Without this lip, like many of the old school and home made beadlocks jobs the tire is not really evenly centered on the rim and this was the major problem with making them "unsafe" or impossible to balance for road use.
 
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rtguy1

New member
I could have sworn there was an extra lip on there. I stand corrected:thumb: what do you think about the trail ready beadlocks GCM 2? I have heard great things about them and love the look but have never ran a set.
 

GCM 2

New member
I could have sworn there was an extra lip on there. I stand corrected:thumb: what do you think about the trail ready beadlocks GCM 2? I have heard great things about them and love the look but have never ran a set.

Well you are correct in some regards, there are beadlocks out there that don't have the lip to seat and center the bead of the tire. As for Trail Ready wheels, the only guys I know that are running them are doing so on "offroad use only" rigs that have never been on the city streets. In fact they don't even bother balancing the wheel tire combo since it won't see street use. They seem to love the TR wheels. I have never owned a set so I can't comment. I do know their manufactured beadlocks have the lip (photos below), but don't know about the wheels you send in to them to have retro-fitted into beadlocks.
 

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Jkzinger

Caught the Bug
I mounted mine myself in about 3 hours taking my time. I soaped up the bead of the 37" Nittos then slipped it over the Beadlock side of the rim. Gave it a little shove down, then used a rubber mallet and tapped the bead of the tire into the recessed lip on the rim. Put on the ring and threaded in a bolt on the four sides 90 degrees apart and tighten a little bit. Then insert the other bolts and tighten then torque them alternating sides as you move around the wheel. I went 250 inch lbs and they don't loosen up.

Didn't even have to balance them with the Nittos. Don't tighten the hub cover bolts much at all and use blue locktight on those. Don't use any locktight on the Beadlock bolts.
 

MTG

Caught the Bug
I mounted mine myself in about 3 hours taking my time. I soaped up the bead of the 37" Nittos then slipped it over the Beadlock side of the rim. Gave it a little shove down, then used a rubber mallet and tapped the bead of the tire into the recessed lip on the rim. Put on the ring and threaded in a bolt on the four sides 90 degrees apart and tighten a little bit. Then insert the other bolts and tighten then torque them alternating sides as you move around the wheel. I went 250 inch lbs and they don't loosen up.

Didn't even have to balance them with the Nittos. Don't tighten the hub cover bolts much at all and use blue locktight on those. Don't use any locktight on the Beadlock bolts.

Thanks zinger! I'm hoping to not have to balance mine as well.
 
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