Weird noise and diagnosis.

NFRs2000NYC

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
So the last week I noticed a strange noise...sounds sort of like rubbing/jingling bells with shearing scissors. (I know, weird description). It is similar to a noise when something is rubbing on a rotor. After checking all the brakes and not being able to diagnose it, I brought it to Jeep this morning. To me, it sounded like the noise was coming from the front end (but since it was under the car, it might have echoed from anywhere.)

So, after a bunch of testing and running it on a lift, they conclude the noise is coming from my rear diff. I just installed a Riddler cover on it the other day, and didn't see anything out of the ordinary, and there was no abnormal amount of filings on the bolt. The service guy tells me that he will replace it this once, but if it happens again, don't bring it back with "those tires." Those tires are Duratrac 33x12.50x15 on Level 8 trackers, which weigh the same as an OEM setup on a rubi/sahara and I haven't taken the rig through anything anyone would call abusive.

Do you guys really think that 33" duratracs can cause a D44 to fail? I think something is loose inside, but I guess they would rather replace it than fix it.

Any opinions? I know Im getting a "free diff" but Im always a little apprehensive about dealers replacing parts since often times they cause more problems than I started with.

This is on a 2012 Sahara with an open D44.
 
jhires

jhires

Member
NFRs2000NYC said:
So the last week I noticed a strange noise...sounds sort of like rubbing/jingling bells with shearing scissors. (I know, weird description). It is similar to a noise when something is rubbing on a rotor. After checking all the brakes and not being able to diagnose it, I brought it to Jeep this morning. To me, it sounded like the noise was coming from the front end (but since it was under the car, it might have echoed from anywhere.)

So, after a bunch of testing and running it on a lift, they conclude the noise is coming from my rear diff. I just installed a Riddler cover on it the other day, and didn't see anything out of the ordinary, and there was no abnormal amount of filings on the bolt. The service guy tells me that he will replace it this once, but if it happens again, don't bring it back with "those tires." Those tires are Duratrac 33x12.50x15 on Level 8 trackers, which weigh the same as an OEM setup on a rubi/sahara and I haven't taken the rig through anything anyone would call abusive.

Do you guys really think that 33" duratracs can cause a D44 to fail? I think something is loose inside, but I guess they would rather replace it than fix it.

Any opinions? I know Im getting a "free diff" but Im always a little apprehensive about dealers replacing parts since often times they cause more problems than I started with.

This is on a 2012 Sahara with an open D44.
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Did they give you a specific reason the tires and/or wheels would cause a problem? There is no reason 33" tires would cause a d44 to fail. The stock tires that come on a Rubi are 32". I'd question the service manager on why the tires are a problem. I've had problems in the past where I've had to remind the service manager that I brought it in because it is under warantee and not because I can't do the work myself. Most of the time their excuses don't stand up to a bit of questioning.

If you have the option, I'd also consider a different dealer for service.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I don't get it, what exactly are they replacing? The diff cover or the carrier inside and are they sure that is the problem? Seems fishy to me.
 
kRay.JK

kRay.JK

New member
Did you fill the diff all the way up to the hole on the new Riddler case? You probably over-filled it if you did.

None of the story adds up in my head. Also, there is no logical reason they should have given you grief. I would remind them next time stock Rubi's come with 32" MUD terrain tires. You tech only have all-terrain tires.
 
NFRs2000NYC

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
No, I filled it the appropriate amount 2.37qts (as per the ProkectJK writeup), and the noise was there before I did the cover install. I knew the riddler fill bolt was higher up.

Eddie, they are replacing this (this is the part number.)
http://www.wermopar.com/oem-part/je...-suspension/axle-housing/axle-assy/68035566aa

The guy told me that they don't just replace the guts, but the entire thing. The only reason why I'm not arguing is that they are doing it under warranty, don't want to piss on a beehive, know what I mean? For the record, they didn't give me grief. He did blame the tires, but said he's going to do it "this one time" but if it happens again "don't come back here with the tires" (basically giving me a hint to put the stocks back on before I bring it in.)
 
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OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
They are replacing your housing? I don't understand how the housing would make a noise. If anything it would be something inside.
 
NFRs2000NYC

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
wayoflife said:
Am I seeing things right? They're replacing your entire axle assembly?? :shock:
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You are seeing it correctly. I asked him about it, and he straight up told me, they don't just replace the guts (if it was on my dime, I obviously wouldn't let them do it) but the entire thing. I guess in their eyes, it's less heat on them, since installing gears is a more sensitive job than just popping in a new axle. Go figure. Still find it odd that 33s did this, I don't buy that. Me thinks something was not done right from the get go, and it finally shook something loose.
 
NFRs2000NYC

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
OverlanderJK said:
They are replacing your housing? I don't understand how the housing would make a noise. If anything it would be something inside.
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I guess they didn't want to find out if it was the ring, the pinion, the seals, the axle shafts, whatever, so they might as well do the whole thing. Im just waiting for my head to start ticking so they replace the entire motor. :cheesy:
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
NFRs2000NYC said:
You are seeing it correctly. I asked him about it, and he straight up told me, they don't just replace the guts (if it was on my dime, I obviously wouldn't let them do it) but the entire thing. I guess in their eyes, it's less heat on them, since installing gears is a more sensitive job than just popping in a new axle. Go figure. Still find it odd that 33s did this, I don't buy that. Me thinks something was not done right from the get go, and it finally shook something loose.
Click to expand...

That's just nuts :crazyeyes:
 
P

paychex.308

-
being warranty i would guess that swapping out the housing is easier than cracking it open and hoping what they replace was the problem. while financially it makes little sense, they just bill chrysler so........ good luck!

btw - your 33"s had nothing to do with it!

andrew -
 
kRay.JK

kRay.JK

New member
I bet wheel bearings or pinion bearings went. They knew it was going to be a huge job so just replaced the entire axle assembly and gave you grief because they don't want you going around telling people they replace axle assembles under warranty. :rolleyes2:

An axle rebuild is lots of fun hours of work. An axle swap can be done in an hour or less on a lift. Enjoy your new axle! remember to follow proper break-in procedure! :rock:
 
NFRs2000NYC

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
kRay.JK said:
I bet wheel bearings or pinion bearings went. They knew it was going to be a huge job so just replaced the entire axle assembly and gave you grief because they don't want you going around telling people they replace axle assembles under warranty. :rolleyes2:

An axle rebuild is lots of fun hours of work. An axle swap can be done in an hour or less on a lift. Enjoy your new axle! remember to follow proper break-in procedure! :rock:
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Now that you mention that....

1) what do you think caused the failure? Anything I can do to prevent this from happening?

2) I planned/booked a trip to Moab on May 2nd. It is a 2100 mile drive for me. What's the proper break in? I figured by the time I got there they would be good to go no?
 
kRay.JK

kRay.JK

New member
NFRs2000NYC said:
Now that you mention that....

1) what do you think caused the failure? Anything I can do to prevent this from happening?

2) I planned/booked a trip to Moab on May 2nd. It is a 2100 mile drive for me. What's the proper break in? I figured by the time I got there they would be good to go no?
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Not complex. Take it easy for the first 100-200 miles. Change fluid. Good to go. There is no filter system so as the new gears are wearing in you'll get tiny metal shavings in the diff. You don't want those in there for the next 30,000 miles. Some people also talk about he initial heating up of the gears on the first drive helps "set" the metal or something and you should only drive for a little bit then let the diff cool all the way before really driving on it....I don't know how much of that I believe.

Failure can be linked to many many variables. The only way to know is to tear down the axle and isolate the part that failed. Probably just a 'Friday' part was used during manufacturing. I honestly don't know if Chrysler still hand builds their axles or not. I do know the noise you described in your first post though. My old Jeep Cherokee did this when the backlash wasn't set correctly. Did it make noise when accel, coasting, or all the time?
 
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R

rubiconG

New member
When I picked up my 2008 last year used. The dealer told me "hey we topped off all the fluids an went through it" I drove an hour home parked it and front axle seals were puking all over the rims. I put it on a lift and popped the bolt out of the diff fill hole and it was like a gyser squirting out gear oil. front and rear. So I called, they told me to run it! Needless to say I didn't. Drove it straight back and left it for them. A week later they tore it all down and did inner seals. Woo fun. Didn't get to drive it for a week after I shelled out 24 grand...no rental or loaner either. Had a cracked header that they said they could t hear leaking so neglected to replace. Clare jeep Newport RI. I HATE THE DEALERS
 
Moochie

Moochie

Active Member
If they replace your total axle assembly you don't have to change your fluid. It will be just like it came from the factory. You don't change fluids at 500 miles on a new Jeep do you?
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Moochie said:
If they replace your total axle assembly you don't have to change your fluid. It will be just like it came from the factory. You don't change fluids at 500 miles on a new Jeep do you?
Click to expand...

I do. I stopped on the way home yesterday to change it real quick. ;):D
 
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