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View Full Version : Front locker on JK questions?



ZERO LIMITZ
04-22-2013, 08:25 PM
Ok wheeled all day and engaged and disengaged several times with no problem. When we were on a trail at the End of the day I engaged front locker again and when we made it up over the ledge we hit the button to disengage lockers. Rear disengaged no problem but front light just continued to blink and never disengaged. I took the connections off and made sure they were clean and connected good, pulled diff cover and flipped the lock ring to the right and then drove slowly with small turns back and forth in forward and reverse..... But never unlocked..... What could I have done to get the front unlocked manually while I had the front cover off??? I took it to stealership today and they were able to get it unlocked.... What could I have done???

suicideking
04-22-2013, 08:28 PM
Not sure, but subscribing to find out.

Were you on level ground?

ZERO LIMITZ
04-22-2013, 08:31 PM
Not sure, but subscribing to find out.

Were you on level ground?

Yes, we moved around to several places to make sure....

Tackerdown
04-22-2013, 08:36 PM
Does it work correctly now ? I have noticed that mine would flash for a little here and there but it always shut off eventually.subscribe .

EVO 4G WAYALIFE.

ZERO LIMITZ
04-22-2013, 08:42 PM
Does it work correctly now ? I have noticed that mine would flash for a little here and there but it always shut off eventually.subscribe .

EVO 4G WAYALIFE.

The stealership was able to get it unlocked, but I would like to know what they did so I don't have to take it to them if it happens again

wayoflife
04-22-2013, 10:30 PM
Unfortunately, the factory locker is just weak and its internal components are prone to cracking over time. Once this happens, it becomes harder and harder for the wave spring inside to push out the dog clutch. That is ultimately what will prevent your lockers from disengaging. If you had fully released the dog clutch, it should have done the trick.

MTG
04-22-2013, 10:32 PM
The stealership was able to get it unlocked, but I would like to know what they did so I don't have to take it to them if it happens again

Look in the fill hole. In the back you should see a little silver button. If you push it to the right it should disengage the locker.

If you are running bigger tires, it is just a matter of time before the factory locker stops working. There was a thread on here where a guy cleaned his all out and I thought he said it started working better. :thumb:

ZERO LIMITZ
04-22-2013, 11:22 PM
Unfortunately, the factory locker is just weak and its internal components are prone to cracking over time. Once this happens, it becomes harder and harder for the wave spring inside to push out the dog clutch. That is ultimately what will prevent your lockers from disengaging. If you had fully released the dog clutch, it should have done the trick.

Thanks, guess that just put PR 60's on the I want/ need list.

ZERO LIMITZ
04-22-2013, 11:24 PM
Look in the fill hole. In the back you should see a little silver button. If you push it to the right it should disengage the locker.

If you are running bigger tires, it is just a matter of time before the factory locker stops working. There was a thread on here where a guy cleaned his all out and I thought he said it started working better. :thumb:

Thanks for input!!!

suicideking
04-23-2013, 04:38 AM
Thanks, guess that just put PR 60's on the I want/ need list.

What size wheels are you running?

If the dealer got it fixed, just see if it happens again. If it does (and sounds like it will), then deal with it. I'd just replace it with an ARB.

ZERO LIMITZ
04-23-2013, 12:30 PM
I have just receive ATX Slabs from EVO.

wayoflife
04-23-2013, 01:34 PM
Thanks, guess that just put PR 60's on the I want/ need list.

We'll, may not need anything as big as a PR60 up front unless you're hoping to run 40's and play hard. A PR44 is probably all that you really need. :yup:


What size wheels are you running?

If the dealer got it fixed, just see if it happens again. If it does (and sounds like it will), then deal with it. I'd just replace it with an ARB.

You can only install an ARB up front if you don't have sleeves installed or are running the pound in kind and even at that, I'd have a hard time throwing anymore money at a factory 44 than is needed.

ZERO LIMITZ
04-23-2013, 02:00 PM
We'll, may not need anything as big as a PR60 up front unless you're hoping to run 40's and play hard. A PR44 is probably all that you really need. :yup:

You can only install an ARB up front if you don't have sleeves installed or are running the pound in kind and even at that, I'd have a hard time throwing anymore money at a factory 44 than is needed.

I started all this thinking that 35" was all I wanted. Well now that I have a set of 37" I'm sure before all is said and done going bigger will probably happen. Caught the bug and can't shake it, and its growing!!!!!

wayoflife
04-23-2013, 02:02 PM
I started all this thinking that 35" was all I wanted. Well now that I have a set of 37" I'm sure before all is said and done going bigger will probably happen. Caught the bug and can't shake it, and its growing!!!!!

:cheesy: Believe me, I understand :crazyeyes:

dchew
04-23-2013, 02:13 PM
If you pushed the clutch over to the right and your light was still reading locked, then the sensor in the back was stuck. Here is a pick of where the sensor is. It is that screw head looking thing behind the clutch, just in front of the pinion.

[note in this pic my clutch is installed wrong; that plate should be to the right of the sensor, not hung over it like in this pic]

Dave

26131

ZERO LIMITZ
04-23-2013, 05:16 PM
If you pushed the clutch over to the right and your light was still reading locked, then the sensor in the back was stuck. Here is a pick of where the sensor is. It is that screw head looking thing behind the clutch, just in front of the pinion.



Dave

<img src="http://wayalife.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26131"/>

Thanks. I appreciate the Help

suicideking
04-23-2013, 06:30 PM
You can only install an ARB up front if you don't have sleeves installed or are running the pound in kind and even at that, I'd have a hard time throwing anymore money at a factory 44 than is needed.

I have an Evo sleeve. Are those pound in?

Good to know though. I guess if it's not pound it, I would want to take it out and get a pound in one? Or would RCV shafts be better?

Hopefully it will be a while. I've only had the Rubi D44 front on for about a year and try not to use the locker unless I need it. I have an ARB in the rear. Use that one all the time.

ttfhell
04-23-2013, 06:36 PM
Evo are weld in. I have them and am dealing with the same locker failure.


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wayoflife
04-23-2013, 06:42 PM
I have an Evo sleeve. Are those pound in?

Nope, those are weld in and better because of it.


Good to know though. I guess if it's not pound it, I would want to take it out and get a pound in one?

Put it to you this way, without glue, plywood would just be thin sheets of wood sitting on top of each other.


Or would RCV shafts be better?

Better than sleeves? Well, being that you're more likely to break a shaft than an axle housing any day of the week, I suppose it would be better but, a standard chromoly shaft with full circle clips will do the same thing and without the $400 additional cost.

TheDuff
04-23-2013, 06:48 PM
Evo are weld in. I have them and am dealing with the same locker failure.


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Can't say you locker being broken has been bothering me:p

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ttfhell
04-23-2013, 07:54 PM
Can't say you locker being broken has been bothering me:p

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using WAYALIFE mobile app

I'm just here to make you look good.


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suicideking
04-23-2013, 08:47 PM
Nope, those are weld in and better because of it.



Put it to you this way, without glue, plywood would just be thin sheets of wood sitting on top of each other.



Better than sleeves? Well, being that you're more likely to break a shaft than an axle housing any day of the week, I suppose it would be better but, a standard chromoly shaft with full circle clips will do the same thing and without the $400 additional cost.

So when the locker eventually stops working, what do you suggest replacing it with? I'll hopefully be running 37's by then. I'm not planning on going larger than 37's.

wayoflife
04-23-2013, 08:57 PM
So when the locker eventually stops working, what do you suggest replacing it with? I'll hopefully be running 37's by then. I'm not planning on going larger than 37's.

If you run your locker sparingly, you can make it last for a while. During that time, I personally would recommend that you save up for a Dynatrac ProRock 44 and run an ARB in it. If it breaks before you can afford an upgrade, you might want to call someone like Off Road Evolution to see if they have any factory locker take-offs. They sometimes have them in stock and can offer one up for less than a new one from the dealership.

suicideking
04-23-2013, 10:42 PM
If you run your locker sparingly, you can make it last for a while. During that time, I personally would recommend that you save up for a Dynatrac ProRock 44 and run an ARB in it. If it breaks before you can afford an upgrade, you might want to call someone like Off Road Evolution to see if they have any factory locker take-offs. They sometimes have them in stock and can offer one up for less than a new one from the dealership.

Cool, thanks Eddie!