Mobil 1 extended performance oil?
- Thread starter tkkim
- Start date
NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
No. Regular mobil1 doesn't even START breaking down at 10K. Don't believe me? Run a test with blackstone labs and you'll see for yourself. A quality synthetic can run 15K without issue. If you are paranoid, change the filter at 7500 miles. I personally change my oil (synthetic) depending on my activities. Regular daily driving I'll run about 10K. Abusive, maybe 5-7K. Sports cars 5K, turbo sports cars 3K.
StrizzyChris
New member
are you saying it has a $10K engine protection guarantee or a 10k mile use range guarantee? Engine warranty is nice to have, especially since chrysler will try to get out of coverage any chance they can.
NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
They "guarantee" that it will protect for 10K. What they neglect to tell you is that any decent synthetic will do the same.
Tackerdown
Banned
The idea is to keep your oil clean and filter clean. It doesn't break down like you might think or they would have you think. That's why most people stick with 3000 miles. Keep it clean :thumbup:
EVO 4G WAYALIFE.
EVO 4G WAYALIFE.
NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
Changing a quality synthetic at 3K does nothing but clean your wallet. If you actually ran a lab test, you would see that it is a complete waste of money.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
Tackerdown
Banned
Seeing that I probably won't do that does synthetic actually stay cleaner than other oils and how is that possible.
EVO 4G WAYALIFE.
NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
I have had my oil tested over 10 times (wanted to see how my sports/race car motors were holding up) and there is little to no breakdown of oil below 10K (Amsoil was even more.) The 3000K oil change is something you will hear from old timers and dealers, just old wives tails. Modern engine oils don't break down like they used to, much less synthetic oils. Synthetic oil does "wear" better than conventional dino oil, but even today's dino oils will last 7500 without a problem. One of the biggest mistakes people make is judge oil by "color." If the oil is black, they assume it's dirty and no good. The fact of the matter is that oil will look black within 1000 miles. You also don't want your oil to stay clean. If it looks clean, it means it's not doing it's job.
Now, if you want some actual numbers, you can have a look here, these are cold hard facts. The only oil or fluid I would never run in any of my vehicles is Royal Purple. I know a lot of people here run them, so I won't go into detail, but I have seen what their fluids do to engines, etc, not to mention, completely false advertising, so none of my vehicles ever get touched by Royal Purple anything.
One of the guys on another one of my forums works in a lab that tests fluids. Here are the results he found...note, RP was not tested in this test (but he has commented on how they tested it later on a different occasion, and found it was subpar. While you guys are free to draw your own conclusions, I trust his opinion and actual testing, so his word is good enough for me.
Here are the results of his test......
___________________________________________
1. All the oils were 10w30 viscosity
2. The oils tested were:
Amsoil (syn)
Castrol GTX Drive Hard (mineral)
Valvoline Synpower (syn)
Mobil Drive Clean (min) - isn't this the rebadged Honda oil?
Pennzoil Purebase (min)
Quaker State (Syn)
Quaker State Peak Perf (min)
Castrol Syntec (syn)
Valvoline (min)
Pennzoil Synthetic (syn)
Mobil1 SuperSyn (syn)
The following ASTM tests were run:
Thin-film Oxygen Uptake ( D-4742)
High Temp/High Shear ( D-4683)
NOACK Volatility ( D-5900)
Pout Point (D-97)
Total Base Number (D-2896)
Cold Cranking Simulator D-5293)
4-Ball Wear (D-4172)
************************************************** *******
Test 1: Thin Film Oxygen Uptake:
Measures the oxidation stability of an oil.
The induction time (break point) in minutes is measured. The test uses standard amounts of fuel dilution, soluble metals, and water to offer a real-world applicability.
Results for this test(all units in minutes):
Amsoil: >500 (no break)
Mobil1: 397
Pennzoil Purebase: 242
Castrol Syntec: 221
Valvoline: 219
Vavoline SynPower: 211
Mobil Drive Clean: 209
Quaker State Peak Performance: 192
Pennzoil Synthetic: 159
Quaker State Synthetic: 159
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 132
Test 2: High Temperature/High Shear (HT/HS)
Measures a lube's performance under severe heat and shear (mechanical stress) as would be found in the journal bearings under heavy load. The units displayed are viscosity based, using the centipose unit (cP). The minimum spec for a 30w is 2.9 cP.
Results for this test (all units in cP):
Amsoil: 3.51
Quaker State Peak Performance: 3.37
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 3.35
Vavoline SynPower: 3.30
Mobil1: 3.30
Valvoline: 3.30
Mobil Drive Clean: 3.28
Pennzoil Purebase: 3.16
Quaker State Synthetic: 3.15
Pennzoil Synthetic: 3.14
Castrol Syntec: 3.13
Test 3: NOACK Volatility.
Measures the evaporative loss of lubricants in high temperature conditions. The higher the number, the thicker the lubricant will become. API SL and GF-3 specs allow for a 15% evaporation limit. In this test, obviously, lower is better. Syns almost always have an advantage due to their monomolecularity.
Results for this test (% weight loss):
Amsoil: 4.86
Vavoline SynPower: 7.03
Castrol Syntec: 7.77
Quaker State Synthetic: 7.80
Pennzoil Synthetic: 8.15
Mobil1: 8.92
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 8.93
Quaker State Peak Performance: 10.63
Mobil Drive Clean: 10.83
Pennzoil Purebase: 10.93
Valvoline: 12.18
Test 4: Pour Point
This test reveals the lowest temperature at which a lubricant will flow when cooled under test conditions. The lower, the better the product will perform in getting from the oil pan to the upper oil galleys, and in providing oil pressure quickly. Synoils generally are the best, because they are free of wax crystals, but today's mineral oils are better refined to remove wax impurities, and use advanced pour point depressant additives to help offset the synoils' intrinsically better properties.
Results for this test (all units in degrees Centigrade):
Amsoil: -48
Mobil1: -46
Vavoline SynPower: -46
Castrol Syntec: -43
Pennzoil Synthetic: -40
Quaker State Synthetic: -40
Pennzoil Purebase: -37
Valvoline: -37
Mobil Drive Clean: -37
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: -37
Quaker State Peak Performance: -34
Test 5: Total Base Number (TBN)
TBN displays the lubricant's reserve alkalinity, and is, of course, the opposite of TAN (total acid number). A high TBN will help resist the formation of acids from sulfur and other sources. It is also a good indicator of reserve resistance to oxidation. The higher the number, the superior ability to suspend contaminants and the greater the ability to provide long-drain intervals
Results for this test (all units in mg KOH/g):
Amsoil: 12.34
Vavoline SynPower: 11.38
Castrol Syntec: 10.39
Pennzoil Synthetic: 9.73
Mobil1: 8.57
Valvoline: 7.88
Quaker State Synthetic: 7.82
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 7.74
Mobil Drive Clean: 7.71
Quaker State Peak Performance: 7.55
Pennzoil Purebase: 7.40
RR's comments: I was very impressed with all the oils, as the mineral oils have significantly improved, consistent with previous comments about how mineral oils are closing in, and that the GF-3 spec has resulted in very good performing products. Mobil1's showing is the best i have seen for that product, which usually was in the 5-6 range previously. It certainly also supports my previous comments that the 3K oil change "necessity" is out of place with current technology. Like an enema for a dead man, while it may not help to do a 3K change, it wouldn't hurt I guess.
Test 6: Cold Crank Sumulator
This one determines the apparent viscosity of the oils at low temperatures and high shear rates, simulating the dreaded cold start. It has direct applicability to engine cranking, the lower the number the better in terms of stress on the battery, starter, etc. A 10w is tested at -25degF and must show a vis <7000 cP to pass.
Results for this test (all units cP at -25degC):
Pennzoil Synthetic: 3538
Amsoil: 3590
Mobil1: 3967
Quaker State Synthetic: 4142
Vavoline SynPower: 4541
Quaker State Peak Performance: 4620
Castrol Syntec: 4783
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 5804
Pennzoil Purebase: 5936
Mobil Drive Clean: 6448
Valvoline: 6458
RR Comments: If you live and drive your car in very cold climates, the advantage of the synoils is obvious. Keep in mind that the NOACK performance figures here as well, as this tests hows the performance of fresh oil - after a few thousand miles, the oils with higher volatility will likely have thickened, unless there has been high dilution from fuel, such as can occur if excessive startup idling warmups are employed.
Test 7: Four Ball Wear
This one is a good indicator of the wear protection of a lubricant, although in the real-world it is should be factored in with the TBN of the oil. Three metal balls are clamped together, and a rotating 4th one is pressed against them in sliding contact. A scar is produced, since at some point the film strength (resistance to being squeezed out) of the oil will be exceeded. The scar is then measured, and the smaller the average wear scar, the better. This test is affected by both the base stock of the oil, and its additive package.
Results for this test (all units in inches):
Amsoil: 0.40
Castrol Syntec: 0.45
Vavoline SynPower: 0.55
Quaker State Synthetic: 0.55
Mobil Drive Clean: 0.55
Pennzoil Synthetic: 0.60
Mobil1: 0.60
Valvoline: 0.60
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 0.60
Quaker State Peak Performance: 0.60
Pennzoil Purebase: 0.65
So, to break it down simply.....
1) If you want the best fluids possible for your rig, Amsoil is the best, for everything, tranny, motor, etc. The only better diff fluid on the market is made my Lubrication Engineers, but it is usually used for race cars. So, if you want the best for your diff, LE607 is the best fluid you can buy (note the Iron difference) http://www.le-international.com/productdisplay.aspx?id=44
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NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
I actually maxed out the 20000 character limit on my last post, so here is the continuation.
:cheesy:
2) If you are looking for EXCELLENT fluids, go to your local big box store, and find any big brand synthetic (Castrol, Mobil1, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Motul, etc) pick the one with the best price, and run it. Royal Purple costs more, and is subpar in performance. In simple terms of economics (If product B is worse than product A and costs more than product A, product B is a poor product) there is absolutely no point in buying it.
Maybe if the higher powers find the above useful, they can copy/paste it into a sticky. Just looking out for you guys and helping you save some money.
:cheesy:
2) If you are looking for EXCELLENT fluids, go to your local big box store, and find any big brand synthetic (Castrol, Mobil1, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Motul, etc) pick the one with the best price, and run it. Royal Purple costs more, and is subpar in performance. In simple terms of economics (If product B is worse than product A and costs more than product A, product B is a poor product) there is absolutely no point in buying it.
Maybe if the higher powers find the above useful, they can copy/paste it into a sticky. Just looking out for you guys and helping you save some money.
NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
One more thing...I would never run any form of Lucas products in my vehicles. I would advise against using their products for modern motors.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
You need another hobby.
NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
I actually didn't write that much.:cheesy:
Everything in the quote box I copied from some of my older posts on other forums. I just thought it is useful information for those that are interested in knowing the products and avoid spending money on snakeoil. Before jeeping my hobby was road racing, so I've run through my fair share of oils and fluids.
wow professional about oil..
anyway, you're pretty much first person who recommend AMSOIL.
i'm thinking between mobile 1 and amsoil.
If I go for amsoil, I'll change oil after 7kmi.
but almost twice expensive than mobile 1.
Tackerdown
Banned
Good god man lol. I'll have to read that when I get home. Quick overview , I didn't see R.P. in the second part where it states the oil test 1-7 . And I'll have to read to see what it says about the oil & filter getting dirty. I'm aware that oil doesn't break down that fast but its the ability to stay clean that concerns me. Of course I have no first hand knowledge because I'm not in a lab but I've always been told the reason for changing your oil and filter was simply because it gets dirty. Maybe you clarified that in the lab finding.
EVO 4G WAYALIFE.
EVO 4G WAYALIFE.
I'm going to change mine over to amsoil this summer.
NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
I got a case of 6 at Costco for $36.99 of Mobil1. In stores (ie Autozone) it's a lot more expensive (9.99 a quart.) Amsoil is $40 for a gallon, (4 quarts) so overall, it is $20 more. Personally, I think Mobil1 (or castrol or valvoline) are perfectly ok for a JK. If you run the OE line of Amsoil, thats cheaper, but it isn't their top tier product.
NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
Your engine wont freeze up and will be just fine. My point was that RP costs more more and is inferior to other leading synthetics, so there is absolutely no logical reason to run it. Run it for this change, and the next time, run one of the others. I realize you are being sarcastic, but all I was trying to do is give everyone some actual data on fluid so they can make a well informed decision. I'm not here to debate which oil is the best and which oil will grenade your motor. This is simply to help others gain a little knowledge on the subject, since today, between forums, TV ads, etc, you are bombarded with misleading information.
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Alaskabound
New member
A BMW scheduled change is every 15-16k miles.