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desertrunner
05-01-2013, 02:45 PM
When i was out at the 4x4 shop the other day messing around on the ramp i had some guy recommend ditching my rear sway bar all together. Now im kinda curious what would be the pros and cons of removing it? To me i feel like im not going to get much more flex out of the rear and its just gonna make my freeway ride worse. Im i right?

wayoflife
05-01-2013, 02:49 PM
When i was out at the 4x4 shop the other day messing around on the ramp i had some guy recommend ditching my rear sway bar all together. Now im kinda curious what would be the pros and cons of removing it? To me i feel like im not going to get much more flex out of the rear and its just gonna make my freeway ride worse. Im i right?

The guy recommending that you ditch your rear sway bar is a moron and you shouldn't listen to him. Your factory rear sway bar is very thin and soft enough that you can manipulate it by hand. It WILL NOT limit your flex but rather, offer well needed stability on the rocks. Your ultimate limiting factor will be your shock lengths.

wayoflife
05-01-2013, 02:53 PM
Here's a shot that will prove my point. As you will see, even with a factory sway bar installed, this JK is still able to get full flex with an EVO lever and coil overs that provide 14" of vertical travel.

http://project-jk.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=89313

desertrunner
05-01-2013, 02:56 PM
The guy recommending that you ditch your rear sway bar is a moron and you shouldn't listen to him. Your factory rear sway bar is very thin and soft enough that you can manipulate it by hand. It WILL NOT limit your flex but rather, offer well needed stability on the rocks. Your ultimate limiting factor will be your shock lengths.

Yeah thats what i figured i just wanted to confirm my opinion. Thanks Eddie :thumb:

wayoflife
05-01-2013, 03:05 PM
Yeah thats what i figured i just wanted to confirm my opinion. Thanks Eddie :thumb:

Clearly, your gut feeling was right :D

rtguy1
05-01-2013, 04:46 PM
I'm actually curious to see how my rig acts now when I disco the front being that I have no rear swaybar. It's fine on road but that's another story. I know having the coilovers angled around 10* yields swaybar like effects, but we shall see. May be a rear antirock in my future:idontknow: Mel seems to think it will be fine. Disclaimer: my setup is custom and does not pertain to the op

wayoflife
05-01-2013, 05:37 PM
I'm actually curious to see how my rig acts now when I disco the front being that I have no rear swaybar. It's fine on road but that's another story. I know having the coilovers angled around 10* yields swaybar like effects, but we shall see. May be a rear antirock in my future:idontknow: Mel seems to think it will be fine. Disclaimer: my setup is custom and does not pertain to the op

You'll be fine. Not having a rear sway bar isn't so much a problem as it's just not needed to obtain more flex as some seem to think is all. Having one will offer more stability. I didn't ask but, was there a reason why Mel didn't just keep the factory rear sway bar in place?

kRay.JK
05-01-2013, 05:56 PM
I had my rear sway-bar off for a few weeks while I was trying to source some longer rear end-links to fix geometry after installing my lift. I 100% couldn't tell a difference. Because I couldn't tell a difference I was more inclined to put it back on knowing that I was getting the same amount of travel with or without it. I would compare the rear sway-bar to an anti-rock system and not really a sway-bar system. It diverts small percentages of downforce to where you most likely need it. Just make sure your geometry is right - aka your endlinks are long enough for the application/lift. If they are too short they could potentially limit downtravel or things could even bend/break. my :twocents:

rtguy1
05-01-2013, 06:14 PM
You'll be fine. Not having a rear sway bar isn't so much a problem as it's just not needed to obtain more flex as some seem to think is all. Having one will offer more stability. I didn't ask but, was there a reason why Mel didn't just keep the factory rear sway bar in place?

He didn't really specify but I believe there was a fitment issue with the stock bar. He said if I really wanted he would install it so I know he could make it work, but I don't think it would be optimal. At least that's the vibe I got. On road I don't notice a difference at all. In fact, as I was preaching at evo the other day the handling is far improved particularly in cornering. I did talk with Mel a bit more and we decided that if I do feel the need for the rear swaybar that a rear antirock would be the best bet. I was actually gonna just do it during the diff service and re torque but the bar is on back order for a couple weeks. So at this point I'm gonna get it offroad and go from there. If it feels a bit tipsy side to side while off camber I will have one installed. If I can live with it that'll save me some cash.:cheesy: daddy needs some beadlocks and a ram and new tire carrier and gas cans and a co2 tank and a .........u get the idea:standing wave:

wayoflife
05-01-2013, 06:36 PM
He didn't really specify but I believe there was a fitment issue with the stock bar. He said if I really wanted he would install it so I know he could make it work, but I don't think it would be optimal. At least that's the vibe I got. On road I don't notice a difference at all. In fact, as I was preaching at evo the other day the handling is far improved particularly in cornering. I did talk with Mel a bit more and we decided that if I do feel the need for the rear swaybar that a rear antirock would be the best bet. I was actually gonna just do it during the diff service and re torque but the bar is on back order for a couple weeks. So at this point I'm gonna get it offroad and go from there. If it feels a bit tipsy side to side while off camber I will have one installed. If I can live with it that'll save me some cash.:cheesy: daddy needs some beadlocks and a ram and new tire carrier and gas cans and a co2 tank and a .........u get the idea:standing wave:

Got it, I could totally see where fitment might be an issue. Of course, with the way your Jeep is designed, it really may not make a difference.

rtguy1
05-01-2013, 06:59 PM
Got it, I could totally see where fitment might be an issue. Of course, with the way your Jeep is designed, it really may not make a difference.

the antirock has much longer arms which i think will allow for a better mounting position.

thats what i'm thinking too. I think the slight inward angle of the rear coilovers will help keep things balanced. applying that force so far to the rear of the jeep has to amplify that effect as well. i'll see how it goes.

for any other application i dont see the real benefit in removing it though. being that the factory bar doesnt limit flex it can only help with stability as you said previously.

chitown35
06-08-2016, 08:17 PM
Sorry for the long post. But I'm trying to provide enough info hoping some of the awesome / knowledgeable members here can help me out.

Here's my situation:
2015 Wrangler Unlimited (Sport). Has the Max Tow package. 3.5" Metalcloak GC w/ 6pak shocks (read - only need 1" bumpstop).

Problem & Observation:
It seems to be a little tipsier than I would expect in off-camber situations. I took it to MC's CTI trailer yesterday (lifts Front Right and Rear Left wheels at same time to measure "flex" kind of like an RTI ramp). When doing this, the rear driver's side had probably 4"+ left before it would hit the bumpstop when the rear passenger side started lifting off the ground. At first looked like the brake line bracket was in the way, but after moving it a bit, the tech there said it looked like it was being limited only by the thick sway bar.

So I did some research and it appears there are 2 different sway bars for JKs. Mine is 7/8" diameter, while I have seen others with Sports say theirs is a 3/4" diameter. These parts appear to be like the springs, in that they get put on whatever vehicle whether or not it is a Rubicon / Sport / Etc I think?
w/ Standard Suspension 68067125AA *
w/ Performance Suspension 68067126AA *

Questions:
1. Do you think the Standard Suspension one is 3/4", and I have the "Performance" 7/8" because of my Max Tow package?
2. Should I try to change mine out for the 3/4" one?
3. Am I just way off base in any way? Is the stiffer sway bar actually keeping me more stable off-camber? Should I ignore what I saw on the CTI trailer / ramp that shows that I should be flexing more? Are the springs just too stiff to play nicely with that sway bar?

Thanks in advance.

jeeeep
06-09-2016, 02:32 AM
backing up to basics, have you cycled your rear suspension? not rti or trailer ramp

the thicker rear sway bar is part of the max tow package and provides additional stability. I'd say if it's feeling too tipsy you're actual lift is much taller, your shocks are too soft (combination of).

I'd cycle the rear suspension and make sure your bumpstops are at the proper height where nothing hits and your shocks don't bottom out.


Also cycle the front suspension.

JKbrick
06-09-2016, 02:48 AM
I thought the rear sway bar didn't limit flex from what I've read here. You didn't say but was your front disconnected? If not that could be your problem, maybe it was and I didn't read correctly

WJCO
06-09-2016, 02:52 AM
I thought the rear sway bar didn't limit flex from what I've read here. You didn't say but was your front disconnected? If not that could be your problem, maybe it was and I didn't read correctly

The rear sway bar is so thin, it doesn't offer much change offroad if disconnected but while connected on road, it provides stability during turns.

JKbrick
06-09-2016, 02:59 AM
The rear sway bar is so thin, it doesn't offer much change offroad if disconnected but while connected on road, it provides stability during turns.

That is what I thought I had read, I meant to ask if his front was disconnected not the rear, just thought that may limit his flex

OverlanderJK
06-09-2016, 03:02 AM
This thread will become awesome!

So much bad information about to be spewed.

JKbrick
06-09-2016, 03:10 AM
This thread will become awesome!

So much bad information about to be spewed.

I must not have understood what he was asking, I'm out

OverlanderJK
06-09-2016, 03:12 AM
I must not have understood what he was asking, I'm out

Lol wasn't saying you. It's actually ok so far. I was just thinking ahead.

JKbrick
06-09-2016, 03:47 AM
Lol wasn't saying you. It's actually ok so far. I was just thinking ahead.

Ha, that's all I had for this anyways

Hammmerhead
06-09-2016, 04:51 AM
backing up to basics, have you cycled your rear suspension? not rti or trailer ramp

the thicker rear sway bar is part of the max tow package and provides additional stability. I'd say if it's feeling too tipsy you're actual lift is much taller, your shocks are too soft (combination of).

I'd cycle the rear suspension and make sure your bumpstops are at the proper height where nothing hits and your shocks don't bottom out.


Also cycle the front suspension.

Does anyone have a pic of the "thicker" sway bar? I ordered the OEM heavy duty version, but it sure is flimsy.

olram30
06-09-2016, 05:40 AM
Subscribed to this thread.

JAGS
06-09-2016, 05:48 AM
Lol wasn't saying you. It's actually ok so far. I was just thinking ahead.

Hmmm.

My advice would be to just remove the rear sway altogether. It doesn't really do anything back there except look cool. I learned this in my #webwrencher class.

MTG
06-09-2016, 06:05 AM
According to your profile you have the MC GC lift. Not sure if you've done so or not, but if you install all 8 MC control arms I think you would be fine. :thumb:;)

chitown35
06-09-2016, 12:25 PM
backing up to basics, have you cycled your rear suspension? not rti or trailer ramp

the thicker rear sway bar is part of the max tow package and provides additional stability. I'd say if it's feeling too tipsy you're actual lift is much taller, your shocks are too soft (combination of).

I'd cycle the rear suspension and make sure your bumpstops are at the proper height where nothing hits and your shocks don't bottom out.


Also cycle the front suspension.

Front and rear have both been cycled to set bumpstop. However, I didn't have the rear sway bar connected at the time since I had disconnected it to take the springs out and just forgot about it. But other than that bumpstop is set correctly. I've measured actual lift and it is just over 3.5. When I say it feels tipsy on off camber stuff I mean it feels like it leans over quite a bit instead of flexing a bit more. Not like anything having to do with shocks...? Maybe springs could be softer? But before I start messing around there I was thinking I'd just try addressing the sway bar thing.


I thought the rear sway bar didn't limit flex from what I've read here. You didn't say but was your front disconnected? If not that could be your problem, maybe it was and I didn't read correctly

Yes front was disconnected.

I know the rear sway bar supposedly doesn't limit suspension travel much, but maybe that is only with the limited travel, softer sock springs? My springs are a little bit stiffer I believe, and I've got a lot more room for travel than the stock setup.


This thread will become awesome!

So much bad information about to be spewed.

Haha I know you'll keep them honest, right?

chitown35
06-09-2016, 12:41 PM
Also, I run a little lighter in the rear: got a fuel skid but have the stock bumper and only a 35 on the tf hinge. Stock carrier for now.

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 01:56 PM
So I did some research and it appears there are 2 different sway bars for JKs. Mine is 7/8" diameter, while I have seen others with Sports say theirs is a 3/4" diameter.

LOL!! What in the world are you talking about? Rather than doing research on the internet, how about you just take a tape measure or ruler to your rear sway bar and measure it. They are ALL the same and they are only about 5/8" in diameter. FAR from being enough to be a limiting factor.

olram30
06-09-2016, 02:02 PM
Am I the only one that thinks 1" bump stops on 3.5" coils is not enough. I have 3" up front and 2.5" bump stops in the rear and I had to trim quite a bit to keep my tires from getting shredded. Plus I would think those coils would go solid.

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 02:10 PM
Am I the only one that thinks 1" bump stops on 3.5" coils is not enough. I have 3" up front and 2.5" bump stops in the rear and I had to trim quite a bit to keep my tires from getting shredded. Plus I would think those coils would go solid.

Nope. You wouldn't be the only one. Typically, you should be running about as much bump stop as you have lift. But hey, what would I know.

chitown35
06-09-2016, 02:10 PM
LOL!! What in the world are you talking about? Rather than doing research on the internet, how about you just take a tape measure or ruler to your rear sway bar and measure it. They are ALL the same and they are only about 5/8" in diameter. FAR from being enough to be a limiting factor.

No, I'm saying I DID measure, and it was 7/8". But I only have one Jeep I can personally measure right now. Is yours only 5/8"? The reason I am thinking there are 2 different sizes is:
* There are 2 different part numbers you can order, one of which is listed as standard, the other "performance".
* The guy from Metalcloak said he'd seen different sizes on occasion
* I had someone else measure theirs and they said it was 3/4".
* You are telling me the ones you have seen are only about 5/8".

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 02:15 PM
No, I'm saying I DID measure, and it was 7/8". But I only have one Jeep I can personally measure right now. Is yours only 5/8"? The reason I am thinking there are 2 different sizes is:
* There are 2 different part numbers you can order, one of which is listed as standard, the other "performance".
* The guy from Metalcloak said he'd seen different sizes on occasion
* I had someone else measure theirs and they said it was 3/4".
* You are telling me the ones you have seen are only about 5/8".

I don't know man, what I can tell you is that I've owned 4 different JK's over the last 9 years and the newest one is a 2012. They have been 2 Rubicon's, a Sport and a Sahara and they have ALL had the exact same rear sway bar from the factory. If you've got a rear sway bar that's almost 1" thick and from the factory (NOT what you can order separately), that's news to me.

olram30
06-09-2016, 02:15 PM
For the record, I have a Rubicon with the tow package, not sure what size my sway bar is. My rear tire stuffs just fine. Factory sway bar

chitown35
06-09-2016, 02:17 PM
Am I the only one that thinks 1" bump stops on 3.5" coils is not enough. I have 3" up front and 2.5" bump stops in the rear and I had to trim quite a bit to keep my tires from getting shredded. Plus I would think those coils would go solid.


Nope. You wouldn't be the only one. Typically, you should be running about as much bump stop as you have lift. But hey, what would I know.

What I said was that the MC shocks only require 1" of bump stop. I am actually running 2" all around, because I have yet to address a clearance issue with the front fender flare support bracket thing.

That being said, the running as much bump stop as you have lift rule is probably correct if you are running long travel standard shocks, or stock fender flares, or lots of other things which I am not.

chitown35
06-09-2016, 02:20 PM
I don't know man, what I can tell you is that I've owned 4 different JK's over the last 9 years and the newest one is a 2012. They have been 2 Rubicon's, a Sport and a Sahara and they have ALL had the exact same rear sway bar from the factory. If you've got a rear sway bar that's almost 1" thick and from the factory (NOT what you can order separately), that's news to me.

Yep, from the factory. Did any of yours have the Max Tow package? Maybe that is it?

olram30
06-09-2016, 02:20 PM
What I said was that the MC shocks only require 1" of bump stop. I am actually running 2" all around, because I have yet to address a clearance issue with the front fender flare support bracket thing.

That being said, the running as much bump stop as you have lift rule is probably correct if you are running long travel standard shocks, or stock fender flares, or lots of other things which I am not.

Take the shocks out of the equation for a second. Pretend they aren't there. Are your coils going solid and bump stops help with clearance issues on your up travel. What size tires are you running?

chitown35
06-09-2016, 02:21 PM
For the record, I have a Rubicon with the tow package, not sure what size my sway bar is. My rear tire stuffs just fine. Factory sway bar

Nice. How much droop did you have on the other side there though where the sway bar would have been limiting you?

olram30
06-09-2016, 02:22 PM
Yep, from the factory. Did any of yours have the Max Tow package? Maybe that is it?

I have a 2012 Rubicon with max tow package. Let that go already and let's figure out why your shit isn't getting good up travel.

chitown35
06-09-2016, 02:23 PM
Take the shocks out of the equation for a second. Pretend they aren't there. Are your coils going solid and bump stops help with clearance issues on your up travel. What size tires are you running?

No, coils aren't going solid. I'm running 315/70R17 STT Pros. Measured just under 34" under the Jeep.

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 02:24 PM
What I said was that the MC shocks only require 1" of bump stop. I am actually running 2" all around, because I have yet to address a clearance issue with the front fender flare support bracket thing.

That being said, the running as much bump stop as you have lift rule is probably correct if you are running long travel standard shocks, or stock fender flares, or lots of other things which I am not.

Nope, the primary reason for running about the same length bump stop extension as you have lift is to help prevent the over compression of your coils. In other words, to prevent them from being squashed down to the point where they no longer return to their original height. The prevention of rubbing things like your fenders or bottoming out your shocks is a perk.


Yep, from the factory. Did any of yours have the Max Tow package? Maybe that is it?

Umm, yes, on BOTH my 2007 and 2012 Rubicons. If they've changed things since 2012, it's news to me.

olram30
06-09-2016, 02:25 PM
Nice. How much droop did you have on the other side there though where the sway bar would have been limiting you?

Best picture I have with droop. Sorry I'm not using a mc trailer to test.

chitown35
06-09-2016, 02:34 PM
Nope, the primary reason for running about the same length bump stop extension as you have lift is to help prevent the over compression of your coils. In other words, to prevent them from being squashed down to the point where they no longer return to their original height. The prevention of rubbing things like your fenders or bottoming out your shocks is a perk.



Umm, yes, on BOTH my 2007 and 2012 Rubicons. If they've changed things since 2012, it's news to me.

Well I'm at a loss as to why mine is 7/8" then, or unless yours were JKs not JKUs. But it is what it is. Anyway as far as preventing coil over-compression good point. But I could've had 5" bumpstop just mayyyybe hit it.

olram30
06-09-2016, 02:35 PM
I'll just trying to figure out why my jeep with factory arms and budget bilstein shocks seems to be flexing fine.

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 02:40 PM
Well I'm at a loss as to why mine is 7/8" then, or unless yours were JKs not JKUs. But it is what it is. Anyway as far as preventing coil over-compression good point. But I could've had 5" bumpstop just mayyyybe hit it.

The 2 JK's I still own are 4-door Rubicons. One of the JK's I sold was a 4-door Sport and the last was a 2-door Sahara. Take a tape measure to your sway bar and take a photo of it. To the best of my knowledge, there is only ONE rear sway bar and only ONE bushing set that is sold. If there really were 3 different diameter sway bars out there, there would be 3 different bushings needed to accommodate them as well. The different part numbers are just that - it happens all the time over the course of a vehicle's life especially when the owner of the company has changed 3 times in the last 9 years.

WJCO
06-09-2016, 02:43 PM
Well I'm at a loss as to why mine is 7/8" then, or unless yours were JKs not JKUs. But it is what it is. Anyway as far as preventing coil over-compression good point. But I could've had 5" bumpstop just mayyyybe hit it.

We're all still talking 'rear' sway bar correct? You aren't referring to measuring your 'front' one correct?

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 02:44 PM
I'll just trying to figure out why my jeep with factory arms and budget bilstein shocks seems to be flexing fine.

Maybe because you have factory arms and Bilstein shocks :idontknow:

chitown35
06-09-2016, 02:44 PM
Take a tape measure to your sway bar and take a photo of it.

Will do tonight.

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 02:45 PM
Factory rear sway bar - 5/8" in diameter.
207472

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 02:47 PM
We're all still talking 'rear' sway bar correct? You aren't referring to measuring your 'front' one correct?

This ^^^^

Front sway bar is about an inch thick.

olram30
06-09-2016, 02:49 PM
Here's mine.

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 02:51 PM
Here's mine.

Is that reading 3/4" or is it just the angle of the camera that makes it look like it? Kinda looks like 1/8" is going above the bar.

olram30
06-09-2016, 02:53 PM
Is that reading 3/4" or is it just the angle of the camera that makes it look like it? Kinda looks like 1/8" is going above the bar.

I think it was the camera angle, here's a better shot

cozdude
06-09-2016, 02:54 PM
Is that reading 3/4" or is it just the angle of the camera that makes it look like it? Kinda looks like 1/8" is going above the bar.

I think it's the camera angle.

olram30
06-09-2016, 02:55 PM
Closer to 5/8". I could only imagine if I had all 8 mc arms and 6 pack shocks.

cozdude
06-09-2016, 03:00 PM
Closer to 5/8". I could only imagine if I had all 8 mc arms and 6 pack shocks.

Maybe it would be closer to 1" then if you had those 6 packs

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 03:01 PM
I think it was the camera angle, here's a better shot

Okay, that looks a lot more like mine. :thumb:

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 03:02 PM
Closer to 5/8". I could only imagine if I had all 8 mc arms and 6 pack shocks.


Maybe it would be closer to 1" then if you had those 6 packs

:cheesy:

Seriously though, could you imagine having a rear sway bar that was about as thick as your front sway bar?! :shock:

cozdude
06-09-2016, 03:05 PM
:cheesy:

Seriously though, could you imagine having a rear sway bar that was about as thick as your front sway bar?! :shock:

Reminds me of that guy a week or so ago who wanted to put a Rubi swaybar in the rear for God knows why

olram30
06-09-2016, 03:06 PM
I think the sway bar theory has been busted.

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 03:08 PM
Reminds me of that guy a week or so ago who wanted to put a Rubi swaybar in the rear for God knows why

WTF, really?? :ahhh-what:

olram30
06-09-2016, 03:11 PM
Actually thinking back, this is about the third time I've seen a thread on the rear not getting good up travel with MC. Maybe the springs are too stiff. Idk.

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 03:13 PM
Actually thinking back, this is about the third time I've seen a thread on the rear not getting good up travel with MC. Maybe the springs are too stiff. Idk.

More than likely. If they're selling their kit with only 1" of bump stop extensions, it could be because their coils are so stiff, they don't need to worry about over compressing them. Certainly, stiff coils or dual rate or even variable rate coils seem to be all the rage again and it's mostly being sold as a way to prevent the sagging of a heavy Jeep.

JeepJeep75
06-09-2016, 03:23 PM
207480
'15 JKUR with max tow. Theory busted....

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 03:26 PM
'15 JKUR with max tow. Theory busted....

:cheesy: Thank you for that!! I was just thinking about who I could contact that has a 2015 with a max tow package that could take a measurement. :clap2:

WJCO
06-09-2016, 04:03 PM
So I did some research and it appears there are 2 different sway bars for JKs. Mine is 7/8" diameter, while I have seen others with Sports say theirs is a 3/4" diameter. These parts appear to be like the springs, in that they get put on whatever vehicle whether or not it is a Rubicon / Sport / Etc I think?
w/ Standard Suspension 68067125AA *
w/ Performance Suspension 68067126AA *

I looked at those part #s and don't see anything listed about diameter. My guess is that you found bigger ones that were aftermarket. Which would be great for stability on roads while turning or towing but would be way worse for offroad use defeating your reasoning all together.

JK_Dave
06-09-2016, 06:51 PM
Swaybars are great for on road and reducing body roll, definitely something you want. Off road, they only serve to limit axle flex. Everyone addresses their front sway bar with extended links, removable links or a swaybar that disconnects like the Rubicon swaybar.

My question to you all is, does the rear just not limit the flex enough to warrant something similar? I feel like the aftermarket would have served up a replacement part if they felt enough people would buy it to make them money, but the only one I know of is the Currie Antirock one (which is probably identical to the one used in the front). Would quick removal links or a Rubicon syle swaybar not be of any benefit in the rear? That question applies to any type of Wrangler from stock up to an Evo lever equipped model.

Thanks guys

cozdude
06-09-2016, 07:01 PM
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=37512

Ddays
06-09-2016, 07:06 PM
does the rear just not limit the flex enough to warrant something similar?

^^ This......

olram30
06-09-2016, 07:08 PM
My shocks fully extend and compress with a rear sway bar. Sway bar does not limit any flex.

WJCO
06-09-2016, 07:13 PM
This too:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?7193-rear-sway-bar-removal

wayoflife
06-09-2016, 07:16 PM
Here's a shot of just how much your factory rear sway bar will supposedly "restrict" your flex.
http://project-jk.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=433143&g2_serialNumber=2

Please note that my limiting strap is taught.

I should also note that aftermarket sway bar systems like the Currie Antirock WILL LIMIT your flex. At SEMA last year, I drove Moby up a tall stand so that it could be put on display in front of the Dynatrac semi without any problems. I was then asked to ramp an identically setup JK only with an Antirock - it almost flopped due to the limited flex and so they decided to leave it on the ground.

JK_Dave
06-09-2016, 07:31 PM
Thanks, totally missed that other thread! I knew the Antirocks were garbage but I didn't realize they were worse than the stock bars. That's emabarrasing. :grayno:

Appreciate all who chimed in :thumb: You're good people!

NevadaZielmeister
06-09-2016, 07:33 PM
Here's a shot of just how much your factory rear sway bar will supposedly "restrict" your flex.
http://project-jk.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=433143&g2_serialNumber=2

Please note that my limiting strap is taught.

I should also note that aftermarket sway bar systems like the Currie Antirock WILL LIMIT your flex. At SEMA last year, I drove Moby up a tall stand so that it could be put on display in front of the Dynatrac semi without any problems. I was then asked to ramp an identically setup JK only with an Antirock - it almost flopped due to the limited flex and so they decided to leave it on the ground.

I love that shot, especially now that I have pretty much the same thing, but with the Currie AntiRock sway bar. I see where the mounts are for the stock sway bar at the bottom of the EVO lever cage. So now I wonder why ORE recommends the Currie Antirock in place of the stock one. Could it just be fitment issues?

As I learn more about the rig, I wonder if my XD60 will have the same hang up and not reach it's true flex potential as it would with the stock sway bar, the limiting straps notwithstanding.

jeeeep
06-09-2016, 09:12 PM
the 2015 sport sway bar is larger than my 2010 Rubicon - both Unlimited:

2010 Rubicon with max tow
207498


2015 Sport with max tow - correction, not max tow, just standard tow package but it's thicker :thinking:
207499

Kalums
06-09-2016, 09:18 PM
the 2015 sport sway bar is larger than my 2010 Rubicon - both Unlimited:

2010 Rubicon with max tow
207498


2015 Sport with max tow
207499

I wonder if the 13 sport w/max tow(mine) is the same as the 10 or the 15.... *thinks* huh, makes ya wonder... I don't have a micrometer tho...

chitown35
06-09-2016, 09:28 PM
Take a tape measure to your sway bar and take a photo of it.


the 2015 sport sway bar is larger than my 2010 Rubicon - both Unlimited:

2010 Rubicon with max tow
207498

2015 Sport with max tow - correction, not max tow, just standard tow package but it's thicker :thinking:
207499

See, I'm not crazy!!!! Lol. I'll still re-measure mine to confirm, but assuming it is the one that is closer to 7/8", I'm thinking I'm going to try to find one to replace it with unless anyone here has a better idea.

olram30
06-09-2016, 10:16 PM
Isn't 20mm almost 3/4 and not 7/8?

Exodus Jeeps
06-09-2016, 10:18 PM
Isn't 20mm almost 3/4 and not 7/8?

It's a hell of a lot closer to 3/4 than it is to 7/8

2nd.gunman
06-09-2016, 10:19 PM
3/4 is 19.05 and 7/8 is 22.225

Exodus Jeeps
06-09-2016, 10:26 PM
I think jeeeep used a metric dial caliper just to confuse this shit some more.

WJCO
06-09-2016, 10:32 PM
Yeah, this is getting way out of hand. I've included a picture of the proper measuring tools. Don't ask me to explain how to use them, I don't have time for that shit.

207515

WJCO
06-09-2016, 10:35 PM
Jeeeep's dial has a white section in the middle that is standard. Looks like first pic is 5/8" and second pic is 3/4".

chitown35
06-09-2016, 10:54 PM
Yeah so I guess it is closer to 3/4". Still not 5/8" though.

ChaosNein
06-09-2016, 11:10 PM
HOLY F*&K How I Do Love Me Some F*&CKING Intrawebs!!!

BLCK4X4
06-09-2016, 11:43 PM
My factory rear sway bar is 5/8" in diameter as well!
15' JKU high Alti
With a max tow package.

A.J.
06-10-2016, 12:14 AM
Yeah, this is getting way out of hand. I've included a picture of the proper measuring tools. Don't ask me to explain how to use them, I don't have time for that shit.

207515

Give me a brake. How do those work?

2nd.gunman
06-10-2016, 01:00 AM
Give me a brake. How do those work?

Lol nice pun.

MedixJK
06-10-2016, 01:17 AM
I dont even know how to take this thread...fuck it, i guess ill go measure my effin rear sway bar lolol

highoctane
06-10-2016, 01:31 AM
I love that shot, especially now that I have pretty much the same thing, but with the Currie AntiRock sway bar. I see where the mounts are for the stock sway bar at the bottom of the EVO lever cage. So now I wonder why ORE recommends the Currie Antirock in place of the stock one. Could it just be fitment issues? As I learn more about the rig, I wonder if my XD60 will have the same hang up and not reach it's true flex potential as it would with the stock sway bar, the limiting straps notwithstanding.

Drew had mentioned the Anti Rock rear sway bar when I picked my Jeep up, that if I have any problems running a stock sway bar I could upgrade later. I believe he said the only reason to get it would be a small gain in ground clearance. I passed on it because the stock sway bar is already fairly high up and I'm not worried about it. I don't see it being an issue.

cozdude
06-10-2016, 01:54 AM
Here's a shot of just how much your factory rear sway bar will supposedly "restrict" your flex.
http://project-jk.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=433143&g2_serialNumber=2

Please note that my limiting strap is taught.

I should also note that aftermarket sway bar systems like the Currie Antirock WILL LIMIT your flex. At SEMA last year, I drove Moby up a tall stand so that it could be put on display in front of the Dynatrac semi without any problems. I was then asked to ramp an identically setup JK only with an Antirock - it almost flopped due to the limited flex and so they decided to leave it on the ground.

Idk Eddie really looks like your 7/8 thick swaybar is really holding you back from getting your limiting strap even tighter

A.J.
06-10-2016, 02:23 AM
I dont even know how to take this thread...fuck it, i guess ill go measure my effin rear sway bar lolol

Is that aftermarket or part of the effin tow package.

JeepJeep75
06-10-2016, 04:23 AM
Looks like we need to start a rear sway bar database thread. 🙄

Hammmerhead
06-10-2016, 04:39 AM
Now Im going to have to dig up a tape


8 68067125AA STABILIZER BAR
WRANGLER; STANDARD
$126.00 $88.68
8 68067126AA STABILIZER BAR
WRANGLER; OFF ROAD
$217.00 $153.40
9 52060012AC BUSHINGS
WRANGLER; OFF ROAD
$10.50 $7.43
9 52060013AA BUSHINGS
WRANGLER; STANDARD
$9.20 $6.49

WJCO
06-10-2016, 04:43 AM
Has anyone tried putting used engine oil on the bar for additional flex?

2nd.gunman
06-10-2016, 04:54 AM
207549
Ten characters

JeepJeep75
06-10-2016, 05:18 AM
Has anyone tried putting used engine oil on the bar for additional flex?

Maybe attaching a steering attenuator to each end in place of the links will help smooth it out and make it less frightening. [emoji15]

Blazindevl
06-10-2016, 05:19 AM
:cheesy:
207549
Ten characters

:cheesy:

mudmobeeler
06-10-2016, 03:19 PM
Best picture I have with droop. Sorry I'm not using a mc trailer to test.

Since you didn't use the trailer, your point is not valid. [emoji16]


Yeah, this is getting way out of hand. I've included a picture of the proper measuring tools. Don't ask me to explain how to use them, I don't have time for that shit.

207515

Thank you for this, I've had these tools for a while now and apparently I was using them wrong when working on brakes. Glad to know. [emoji106]


HOLY F*&K How I Do Love Me Some F*&CKING Intrawebs!!!

Lol.


Has anyone tried putting used engine oil on the bar for additional flex?

I did, it helped. It slipped around so much side to side and lubed the bushings that it got into a brake line and bent it all up. So I took the sway bar off and sold it for scrap metal. I like to live dangerously.

chitown35
04-19-2017, 07:16 PM
Here's a shot of just how much your factory rear sway bar will supposedly "restrict" your flex.
http://project-jk.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=433143&g2_serialNumber=2

Please note that my limiting strap is taught.

I should also note that aftermarket sway bar systems like the Currie Antirock WILL LIMIT your flex. At SEMA last year, I drove Moby up a tall stand so that it could be put on display in front of the Dynatrac semi without any problems. I was then asked to ramp an identically setup JK only with an Antirock - it almost flopped due to the limited flex and so they decided to leave it on the ground.

Ok sorry for the thread revival, but do you know your spring rate here at full droop?

Peterzampa1
06-20-2017, 09:12 AM
Other than Currie anti rock what would be the best way to get the rear to articulate more with out disconnecting.


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WJCO
06-20-2017, 11:22 AM
Other than Currie anti rock what would be the best way to get the rear to articulate more with out disconnecting.


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Leave the stock one one. Nothing else needed. Problem solved and you just saved money. I also merged your thread here to an existing one. Hopefully you can find all of your answers here.

DWiggles
06-20-2017, 12:55 PM
https://media.giphy.com/media/RL0xU1daTlMoE/giphy.gif

wayoflife
06-20-2017, 01:04 PM
Other than Currie anti rock what would be the best way to get the rear to articulate more with out disconnecting.

A factory rear sway bar will NOT limit the amount of articulation you have. A Currie Antirock WILL limit the amount of articulation you have.

JeepJeep75
06-20-2017, 01:58 PM
https://media.giphy.com/media/RL0xU1daTlMoE/giphy.gif

Hahahahaha!!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣


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desertrunner
06-20-2017, 02:03 PM
Holy thread revival, almost embarrassing reading some of my old posts haha

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notnalc68
06-20-2017, 02:39 PM
Here's mine.

The only thing I learned, from this thread, is that olram measures his sway bar, like most guys measure their penis.:cheesy:

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NevadaZielmeister
06-20-2017, 02:59 PM
A factory rear sway bar will NOT limit the amount of articulation you have. A Currie Antirock WILL limit the amount of articulation you have.

Is this the same in all applications? The reason I ask is because I have the Currie Anti-Rock rear sway bar, EVO Lever rear suspension system with bypass and an ProRock XD60 rear axle. With my limiting strap completely taught and my King Air Bump Shock completely flattened, where am I loosing flex/articulation then?

wayoflife
06-20-2017, 03:10 PM
Is this the same in all applications? The reason I ask is because I have the Currie Anti-Rock rear sway bar, EVO Lever rear suspension system with bypass and an ProRock XD60 rear axle. With my limiting strap completely taught and my King Air Bump Shock completely flattened, where am I loosing flex/articulation then?

It all depends on how long your limiting straps are and how tall your bump stop extensions are.

chitown35
06-20-2017, 03:38 PM
Other than Currie anti rock what would be the best way to get the rear to articulate more with out disconnecting.


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Leave the stock one one. Nothing else needed. Problem solved and you just saved money. I also merged your thread here to an existing one. Hopefully you can find all of your answers here.



A factory rear sway bar will NOT limit the amount of articulation you have. A Currie Antirock WILL limit the amount of articulation you have.

Sorry but yes it can limit you depending on your setup, I've seen it on my rig and heard of it on others as well. And that was with both the 17mm and the 19mm stock sway bars. However this does not occur until around maybe ~11" of travel for my setup.

I'm sure there are other factors that go into this such as spring rate, unsprung weight, etc. Also a blanket statement that the curry will limit your flex depends on the same factors, and additionally arm length.

Now of course that will get into the argument of will that little extra flex that's being limited (by the stock bar or the anti rock) actually do anything for you, your traction, etc. which will also depend on those other factors again...

wayoflife
06-20-2017, 03:56 PM
Sorry but yes it can limit you depending on your setup, I've seen it on my rig and heard of it on others as well. And that was with both the 17mm and the 19mm stock sway bars. However this does not occur until around maybe ~11" of travel for my setup.

This is 14" of vertical travel with a factory rear sway bar.

https://www.wayalife.com/photos/upload/2017/06/16/20170616155946-0910bc91.jpg


I'm sure there are other factors that go into this such as spring rate, unsprung weight, etc. Also a blanket statement that the curry will limit your flex depends on the same factors, and additionally arm length.

Here are 2 JK's with the exact same EVO DTD, long arms and axles only one is running a factory sway bar and the other is running a Currie Antirock. The first of course is Moby and I was able to drive it safely up a tall display ramp.
https://project-jk.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=436637&g2_serialNumber=2

This is the other JK. As you can see, it's sitting flat on the ground because while I was able to drive it up the same ramp, the rear started to lift and it wasn't stable enough to leave it there.
https://project-jk.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=439591&g2_serialNumber=2

As you know, a sway bar is a torsion bar and the higher the rate, the greater it will resist as you load it up. But hey, I can only show proof of things I have personally experienced and seen. Being that you're the expert here, your word is all that I need to hear to know that I'm wrong. :yup:

WJCO
06-20-2017, 04:02 PM
Maybe I'm ignorant here, but I would ASSUME the majority of Jeepers here on the forum get out on trails, enjoy their Jeeps, crawl over rocks, and never think twice about getting out during flexing just to measure their rear articulation. This whole rear sway bar topic seems stupid to me, maybe I'm missing something.

notnalc68
06-20-2017, 04:03 PM
https://media.giphy.com/media/RL0xU1daTlMoE/giphy.gif

Perfect


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chitown35
06-20-2017, 04:42 PM
This is 14" of vertical travel with a factory rear sway bar.

https://www.wayalife.com/photos/upload/2017/06/16/20170616155946-0910bc91.jpg



Here are 2 JK's with the exact same EVO DTD, long arms and axles only one is running a factory sway bar and the other is running a Currie Antirock. The first of course is Moby and I was able to drive it safely up a tall display ramp.
https://project-jk.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=436637&g2_serialNumber=2

This is the other JK. As you can see, it's sitting flat on the ground because while I was able to drive it up the same ramp, the rear started to lift and it wasn't stable enough to leave it there.
https://project-jk.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=439591&g2_serialNumber=2

As you know, a sway bar is a torsion bar and the higher the rate, the greater it will resist as you load it up. But hey, I can only show proof of things I have personally experienced and seen. Being that you're the expert here, your word is all that I need to hear to know that I'm wrong. :yup:

This is all exactly my point, the sway bar obviously is great on your Jeep's setup. But what's important is the specific Jeep the question was about.

@Peterzampa1 - I assume you are seeing your travel being limited? When and how much? Or is it just a guess at this point and you're looking for ideas?

wayoflife
06-20-2017, 04:42 PM
Maybe I'm ignorant here, but I would ASSUME the majority of Jeepers here on the forum get out on trails, enjoy their Jeeps, crawl over rocks, and never think twice about getting out during flexing just to measure their rear articulation. This whole rear sway bar topic seems stupid to me, maybe I'm missing something.

LOL!! You're not missing anything. The guys who obsess over silly things like rear sway bars and flex typically don't wheel nearly as hard as they'd like to think they do or anywhere as much. Granted, a lot of this is because they live in areas that don't have a whole lot to offer but then, there are also those guys who feel the need to justify what they chose to buy. :crazyeyes:

wayoflife
06-20-2017, 04:45 PM
This is all exactly my point, the sway bar obviously is great on your Jeep's setup. But what's important is the specific Jeep the question was about.

Funny, I thought your point was to suggest that a factory sway bar limits the amount of flex your Jeep has. But, okay. :rolleyes2:

chitown35
06-20-2017, 04:48 PM
Funny, I thought your point was to suggest that a factory sway bar limits the amount of flex your Jeep has. But, okay. :rolleyes2:
My point was that it CAN.

wayoflife
06-20-2017, 04:49 PM
My point was that it CAN.

And, my proof shows that it DOESN'T.

chitown35
06-20-2017, 04:53 PM
Maybe I'm ignorant here, but I would ASSUME the majority of Jeepers here on the forum get out on trails, enjoy their Jeeps, crawl over rocks, and never think twice about getting out during flexing just to measure their rear articulation. This whole rear sway bar topic seems stupid to me, maybe I'm missing something.
I didn't worry about it either...until I almost flopped because I run really light in the rear and the combined spring / sway rate was too high and limiting me.

chitown35
06-20-2017, 04:58 PM
And, my proof shows that it DOESN'T.
It proves it doesn't with those spring rates and unsprung weight. If I ever put mine back on, I'll try to remember to take some pics just for you.

wayoflife
06-20-2017, 05:03 PM
I didn't worry about it either...until I almost flopped because I run really light in the rear and the combined spring / sway rate was too high and limiting me.

LOL!! Right, because you almost flopped, it had to be because of your factory sway bar.


It proves it doesn't with those spring rates and unsprung weight. If I ever put mine back on, I'll try to remember to take some pics just for you.

What it proves is that you coils are too stiff and they prevented you from being at full bump and shock at a full extension. If they were, your sway bar would have ZERO effect on your Jeep. :naw:

chitown35
06-20-2017, 05:07 PM
LOL!! Right, because you almost flopped, it had to be because of your factory sway bar.



What it proves is that you coils are too stiff and they prevented you from being at full bump and shock at a full extension. If they were, your sway bar would have ZERO effect on your Jeep. :naw:
So the options are either softer springs or, wait for it...a less stiff sway bar! They combine in their effects on wheel rate.

I mean this is like the never ending debate in sports cars. Stiff springs or stiff sway bar...

MR.Ty
06-20-2017, 05:13 PM
So the options are either softer springs or, wait for it...a less stiff sway bar! They combine in their effects on wheel rate.

I mean this is like the never ending debate in sports cars. Stiff springs or stiff sway bar...

How does a soft spring rate effect articulation when it is a bump stop that stops up travel and springs do not typically attach to the axle housing unless you are using spring retainers? Are you saying that by using spring retainers you are limiting your flex? :thinking::crazyeyes:

wayoflife
06-20-2017, 05:17 PM
So the options are either softer springs or, wait for it...a less stiff sway bar! They combine in their effects on wheel rate.

:cheesy: As I have been saying from the very beginning, I have seen articulation being limited with a much heavier torsion rate Currie Antirock but never with a flimsy factory rear sway bar that you can easily manipulate by hand or at least, not on my Jeeps. If you're unable to get a full bump/droop with your flimsy factory rear sway bar, your coils are TOO STIFF. But then, that's just my opinion, what would I know.


I mean this is like the never ending debate in sports cars. Stiff springs or stiff sway bar...

Funny, didn't know we were talking about sports cars. :thinking:

chitown35
06-20-2017, 05:19 PM
How does a soft spring rate effect articulation when it is a bump stop that stops up travel and springs do not typically attach to the axle housing unless you are using spring retainers? Are you saying that by using spring retainers you are limiting your flex? :thinking::crazyeyes:
Think of it this way...if your combined wheel rate (springs and sway bar) is infinitely firm, you will never get any uptravel. So on real springs do you have a hard "limit"? No. But a practical one? Yes.

wayoflife
06-20-2017, 05:28 PM
:cheesy: I just looked at your profile and see that you're a Metalcloak Game Changer guy and with 6-pak shocks to boot. Clearly, the problem has to be your factory rear sway bar and the reason why you almost flopped your Jeep.

chitown35
06-20-2017, 05:33 PM
As I have been saying from the very beginning, I have seen articulation being limited with a much heavier torsion rate Currie Antirock but never with a flimsy factory rear sway bar that you can easily manipulate by hand. But then, what would I know.

So if the anti rock torsion rate combined with some soft spring rate can be too high, why can't the stock torsion rate combined with a different firmer spring rate be too high?

NevadaZielmeister
06-20-2017, 06:44 PM
It all depends on how long your limiting straps are and how tall your bump stop extensions are.

Thank you Eddie. Sometimes the obvious answer is the best answer. I figured that there is always something limiting our flex, whether its the sway bar, the shock springs, the frame, the bumper stop extensions, etc. Remove one obstacle, another gets in the way.

The question now is how much do you change the straps and bump stop extensions? From my experience in the field actually wheeling, the compressed wheel is really against almost the fender. So my attention would turn to the limiting straps. How can I tell I have room to make those longer? Is it even worth it? What are some things to consider and look out for?

Here is where I started feeling that rocking motion. It was clear that I had reached the maximum flex/articulation for my rig:
264398

wayoflife
06-20-2017, 06:54 PM
So if the anti rock torsion rate combined with some soft spring rate can be too high, why can't the stock torsion rate combined with a different firmer spring rate be too high?

Apparently, it can be if you're running stiff ass Metalcloak springs.

wayoflife
06-20-2017, 06:58 PM
Thank you Eddie. Sometimes the obvious answer is the best answer. I figured that there is always something limiting our flex, whether its the sway bar, the shock springs, the frame, the bumper stop extensions, etc. Remove one obstacle, another gets in the way.

The question now is how much do you change the straps and bump stop extensions? From my experience in the field actually wheeling, the compressed wheel is really against almost the fender. So my attention would turn to the limiting straps. How can I tell I have room to make those longer? Is it even worth it? What are some things to consider and look out for?

Here is where I started feeling that rocking motion. It was clear that I had reached the maximum flex/articulation for my rig:

Depends on what you're willing to sacrifice or deal with. EVO likes to sell Antirocks with their DTD because the factory rear sway bar is so soft that it warps and will make contact with your frame rail. This is no big deal to me but it will make a loud sound and that offended a lot of their customers. Plus, a factor rear sway bar just doesn't look sexy on a high dollar lift kit and most DTD owners can't have that. Of course, if big flex is really all you care about, you could remove or reduce your bump stop extensions so that your tires get torn up on the fenders at a full bump and you can remove your limiting straps so that your drive shaft binds at a full droop. These are all choices you can make.

wayoflife
06-20-2017, 07:06 PM
Check it out - I almost flopped my Jeep. It must have been the damn factory rear sway bar! >:(

https://project-jk.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=467043&g2_serialNumber=2

notnalc68
06-20-2017, 07:08 PM
Think of it this way...if your combined wheel rate (springs and sway bar) is infinitely firm, you will never get any uptravel. So on real springs do you have a hard "limit"? No. But a practical one? Yes.

Have you removed your sway bar and tested the flex?


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chitown35
06-20-2017, 07:14 PM
Check it out - I almost flopped my Jeep. It must have been the damn factory rear sway bar! >:(

https://project-jk.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=467043&g2_serialNumber=2
A little different predicament than I was in, but take it off and see if you do better there next time - you never know until you try!

NevadaZielmeister
06-20-2017, 07:33 PM
EVO likes to sell Antirocks with their DTD because the factory rear sway bar is so soft that it warps and will make contact with your frame rail. This is no big deal to me but it will make a loud sound and that offended a lot of their customers.

The funny thing is, with the King Air/EVO MFG Bump Stop Extensions notched into the frame, the Currie Anti-Rock rubs against the tubes/extensions anyways. No worries for me either, given I just put some grease where it rubs and call it good.

chitown35
06-20-2017, 07:47 PM
Have you removed your sway bar and tested the flex?


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Yes I have. For me my suspension works better without the bar.

chitown35
06-20-2017, 07:50 PM
:cheesy: I just looked at your profile and see that you're a Metalcloak Game Changer guy and with 6-pak shocks to boot. Clearly, the problem has to be your factory rear sway bar and the reason why you almost flopped your Jeep.
I'd say the line I chose to try that required as much flex as possible in the rear may have had a little something to do with it too :)

MTG
06-20-2017, 07:51 PM
Wow. What a great read.

I'll add this to the mix...

It was a real pleasure to have to remove TrailBuds broken anti-rock on the Rubicon. Almost as much fun as he had driving it on the off camber stuff afterwards.

Discuss.


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Jkzinger
06-20-2017, 08:03 PM
Wow. What a great read.

I'll add this to the mix...

It was a real pleasure to have to remove TrailBuds broken anti-rock on the Rubicon. Almost as much fun as he had driving it on the off camber stuff afterwards.

Discuss.


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Yep, just removed one of my buddies antirocks after he broke it also. Major waste of money.


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wayoflife
06-20-2017, 08:23 PM
A little different predicament than I was in...

Oh, I'm sure it was. I'm in suspense reading all about it. Kind of reminds me of playing Oregon Trail back in the day only, it had still had some graphics.

264414


but take it off and see if you do better there next time - you never know until you try!

eh, been there done that and not even because I wanted to. Totally over rated. Way too much sway, zero stability on off camber sections and nothing to hold you in place when cornering fast.


Yes I have. For me my suspension works better without the bar.

I'll bet. My CJ doesn't have front or rear sway bars but then, it's sitting on leaf springs.


I'd say the line I chose to try that required as much flex as possible in the rear may have had a little something to do with it too :)

Wow, you're so cool. I could read all about your amazing wheeling all day long. :daydream:

deadguy
06-20-2017, 08:28 PM
You guys got me worried about my rear anti rock now.... What broke? Bar snapped or ends spun on the splines?

Sent from a guy with a jeep

Tylersilverjku
06-20-2017, 08:48 PM
I'm going to chime in and MAYBE people can understand. These pictures are factory sway bar in the rear you can see how tucked one end is and how open the other is.

I wasn't anywhere close to flopping I stoped because my brake lines were extended. Moral of the story keep the rear sway bar and don't spend money when you don't need too. 264418264419


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wayoflife
06-20-2017, 08:49 PM
You guys got me worried about my rear anti rock now.... What broke? Bar snapped or ends spun on the splines?

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You'll be fine. It's rare but the torsion bar itself can break. The most annoying thing about them is how they squeak like a banshee. That being said, where they shine is if you do a lot of bombing across the desert. Mel likes having one because he races EVO 1 at KOH. For fast driving, being connected and running a stiffer rear sway bar is great to have.

deadguy
06-20-2017, 10:07 PM
You'll be fine. It's rare but the torsion bar itself can break. The most annoying thing about them is how they squeak like a banshee. That being said, where they shine is if you do a lot of bombing across the desert. Mel likes having one because he races EVO 1 at KOH. For fast driving, being connected and running a stiffer rear sway bar is great to have.
Yeah I can see that happening especially if it's not setup right. As far as the squeaking my front is dead quiet but my rear creaks like a bastard when I flex lol.

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SDG
06-20-2017, 10:26 PM
You'll be fine. It's rare but the torsion bar itself can break. The most annoying thing about them is how they squeak like a banshee. That being said, where they shine is if you do a lot of bombing across the desert. Mel likes having one because he races EVO 1 at KOH. For fast driving, being connected and running a stiffer rear sway bar is great to have.
I have heard that being a little stiffer they help to fill up holes faster at high speed on bumpy terrain. I assume that also means you need to have your rebound dialed in pretty solid as well.

Peterzampa1
06-20-2017, 10:45 PM
This is all exactly my point, the sway bar obviously is great on your Jeep's setup. But what's important is the specific Jeep the question was about.

@Peterzampa1 - I assume you are seeing your travel being limited? When and how much? Or is it just a guess at this point and you're looking for ideas?

264429
This is with the sway bar disconnected. It struggled with the bar connected.



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JeepJeep75
06-20-2017, 10:55 PM
264434 hmmm.... no struggling here with my factory rear swaybar, still connected.


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Peterzampa1
06-20-2017, 11:11 PM
264429
This is with the sway bar disconnected. It struggled with the bar connected.



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Also if I was to tuck the passenger side up (I am RHD) the sway bar at the link would rub on the rails.


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Jkzinger
06-20-2017, 11:38 PM
You guys got me worried about my rear anti rock now.... What broke? Bar snapped or ends spun on the splines?

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The bar broke its welds


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deadguy
06-20-2017, 11:58 PM
Also if I was to tuck the passenger side up (I am RHD) the sway bar at the link would rub on the rails.


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The sway are is only held in by the rubber bushing on the frame rails, the bar could be shifted to one side more than the other. Are you sure your axle is centered under the Jeep with the trackbar just right? If not it could be pulling it to one side.

Poser shot of me on an rti with the anti rock rear, coil springs and short arms. plenty of flex so I can't imagine the thin oem stock swaybar limiting anything
264436
264437

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Journeyman
06-21-2017, 12:02 AM
264438
Woah check it out, my stock rear sway bar is still connected! Annnndddd wait for it! I'm also on 3" terra flex coils at the moment, which are known for being stiff. Neither of those are what stopped my axle from drooping any further.

Journeyman
06-21-2017, 12:04 AM
264429
This is with the sway bar disconnected. It struggled with the bar connected.



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Words cannot even describe my feelings of how awesome this photo is 🤤

Peterzampa1
06-21-2017, 01:20 AM
What springs are you running? And what size tires?

Synergy 4.5". Pit bull 37's


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deezus
06-21-2017, 01:29 AM
Am I the only one that thinks 1" bump stops on 3.5" coils is not enough. I have 3" up front and 2.5" bump stops in the rear and I had to trim quite a bit to keep my tires from getting shredded. Plus I would think those coils would go solid.
Im running 4" bumps all around. Rock Krawler 3.5" X factor, king shocks, 37s.

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Judesign
06-21-2017, 02:01 AM
This thread will become awesome!

So much bad information about to be spewed.

Wow called it over a year ago. Sifting through trying to learn something and found this. Lmao


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notnalc68
06-21-2017, 02:02 AM
Wow called it over a year ago. Sifting through trying to learn something and found this. Lmao


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Lol. I saw that this morning. OverlanderJK is a forum prophet.


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OverlanderJK
06-21-2017, 03:04 AM
Wow called it over a year ago. Sifting through trying to learn something and found this. Lmao


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Lol. I saw that this morning. OverlanderJK is a forum prophet.


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Lol


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DWiggles
06-21-2017, 01:48 PM
Hmm... I decided to driveway flex the rear to see how much my rear sway bar is limiting me...I'm not cool enough for the stacked tire test... but I found... the shocks and bump stops are in fact limiting my flex... should I remove them first? :crazyeyes:

264517

wayoflife
06-21-2017, 01:52 PM
but I found... the shocks and bump stops are in fact limiting my flex... should I remove them too?

Well duh! All the cool guys have been doing this for years. Rookie :naw: :crazyeyes: :cheesy:

wayoflife
06-21-2017, 01:52 PM
Wow called it over a year ago. Sifting through trying to learn something and found this. Lmao

:cheesy: Hard to believe it was over a year ago :crazyeyes:

mudmobeeler
06-21-2017, 07:48 PM
Don't know if it was answered here or not but what was the collar deals that people have put on their sway bars to keep them from shifting side to side so much?


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DWiggles
06-21-2017, 08:02 PM
Well duh! All the cool guys have been doing this for years. Rookie :naw: :crazyeyes: :cheesy:

Damn it! I knew I was doing it wrong!!!

264566

tcjku
04-11-2018, 08:45 PM
Holy thread revival, Batman!

So, after wading through this thread I figured I'd try and help out here. And, I was nearly able to, but not quite. I'll share what I ended up with anyway.

I have a 2016 JKU with the tow package and 35's and the 6-Pak suspension. I wanted to see how far I could get the rear end to stuff/droop. Unfortunately the terrain in my front yard wouldn't allow me to get the rear suspension drooped all the way. For the point I'm at (which is a long way from full extension/compression) the sway bar is not a limiting factor at all:

Here's the jeep flexed out as much as I could get it with the terrain I had to hand. This is by no means full flex.
299086

Here's the rear shock. There's still plenty of shock and spring compression available - I couldn't get it to fully stuff because there wasn't a severe enough angle. I think I need to find a ramp to drive up.

299089

When I'm able to find the right terrain to get the rear axle at full droop I'll update the thread - and then everyone will know (at least for this setup) if the rear sway bar limits the travel of the suspension (which, for the record, I don't believe it does).

And, to clarify something about this suspension for people that are not familiar with it - there is more up-travel than a standard shock. Therefore, even with a 3.5" lift I am able to run 2" of bump stop at the front (with minor rubbing on the top of the plastic fender) and 1" at the rear (with no rubbing). I'm not saying this is better or worse than other suspension systems out there - merely that it is set up differently from a standard shock. As you can see from the (sideways) picture below - I'm on the front bump stop and still have some spring compression available.

299090

DWiggles
04-11-2018, 08:54 PM
Brah...

299092

...With rear sway bar...

There is no question here... the rear sway bar does NOT limit rear flex. Not on coil/shock setups, OR coilovers... it does NOT limit rear flex. Period. People claiming it does don't know what they are talking about, or don't know how to setup the jeep so see option 1. It's as simple as that.



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wayoflife
04-11-2018, 09:00 PM
Brah...

...With rear sway bar...

There is no question here... the rear sway bar does NOT limit rear flex. Not on coil/shock setups, OR coilovers... it does NOT limit rear flex. Period. People claiming it does don't know what they are talking about, or don't know how to setup the jeep so see option 1. It's as simple as that.

No way man, you could totally get more flex if you didn't have your rear sway bar connected :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy:

sipafz
04-11-2018, 10:01 PM
Here's the rear shock. There's still plenty of shock and spring compression available - I couldn't get it to fully stuff because there wasn't a severe enough angle. I think I need to find a ramp to drive up.

299089

When I'm able to find the right terrain to get the rear axle at full droop I'll update the thread - and then everyone will know (at least for this setup) if the rear sway bar limits the travel of the suspension (which, for the record, I don't believe it does).

And, to clarify something about this suspension for people that are not familiar with it - there is more up-travel than a standard shock. Therefore, even with a 3.5" lift I am able to run 2" of bump stop at the front (with minor rubbing on the top of the plastic fender) and 1" at the rear (with no rubbing).

Looks like your rear bump extensions are to short! Your shock will bottom out before the bump hard stops. I like to keep my six packs in the fridge, not under my Jeep 🤣.

tcjku
04-11-2018, 10:10 PM
Looks like your rear bump extensions are to short!

Nope - they are ok. There are o-rings on the shocks to indicate compression. The rear shocks never get to full compression with the bump stops set up that way.

sipafz
04-11-2018, 10:29 PM
Nope - they are ok. There are o-rings on the shocks to indicate compression. The rear shocks never get to full compression with the bump stops set up that way.

Ok, I forgot that those have the rods out the top and bottom. Carry on.

desertrunner
04-11-2018, 11:16 PM
Every time this thread pops back up it's a sad reminder that I started it :(

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tdougherty81
04-12-2018, 12:26 AM
Brah...

299092

...With rear sway bar...

There is no question here... the rear sway bar does NOT limit rear flex. Not on coil/shock setups, OR coilovers... it does NOT limit rear flex. Period. People claiming it does don't know what they are talking about, or don't know how to setup the jeep so see option 1. It's as simple as that.



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Same here

299106

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DWiggles
04-12-2018, 12:28 AM
Same here

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... I got more flex's than you! [emoji23]

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Flat Top
04-12-2018, 03:57 AM
Wait, shocks limit your flex? I had no idea...299118

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Brute
04-12-2018, 07:25 AM
Brah...

299092

...With rear sway bar...

There is no question here... the rear sway bar does NOT limit rear flex. Not on coil/shock setups, OR coilovers... it does NOT limit rear flex. Period. People claiming it does don't know what they are talking about, or don't know how to setup the jeep so see option 1. It's as simple as that.



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It's not "brah"...it's "eh brah", brah

DWiggles
04-12-2018, 12:45 PM
It's not "brah"...it's "eh brah", brah

:clap2: I'm still working on how to be a Basic Brah... its complex stuff. Thanks for the correction... :thumb: :cheesy: