Strange Steering issues, Not sure why this is??

Big-T

Big-T

New member
Hey guys thought I would put this out for some input. Ok so I am having this strange steering issue with my 2010 JKUR 4" long arm kit, 37" Toyo's as a base line for the jeeps build. So here is the scenario, driving lets say 60 mph+ on a freeway or a semi-nice highway, and I hit one of those full with seams in the road that connects the asphalt to the cement or some thing like that type of a bump like going over a bridge that we have all drove over a 1k times, and not all bumps just those types that cause this little kick from the rear axle, some may notice this as well. It can be a bit more profound depending on springs and shock types. The bump can cause just a little side type kick feel in the rear. ( I hope this description makes sense, kinda hard to put in words) well after this happens it cause me to get into a steering swapping / over-steer problem, and can get a little spooky. To further explain, after I hit a bump my jeep will get that real mild kick to the right feel, not anything I haven't felt before in my other Jeeps or scary in anyway just trying give a good description, then it will make the jeep kinda need a little steering correction, then at that point it over corrects and just gos back and forth if I try and fight it its gets scarey as hell. Its like the Jeep will not find its own center if that makes sense. I have to just kinda let the steering wheel loose lightly and let straighten it self out. Now I believe this to Not be "death wobble" as it's not a violent shaking, the JK steers straight does not wonder the road, no pulling to ether side, under hard breaking stops straight honestly preforms better than would have expected. I have had no problems in anyway with the performance of my steering except this swapping effect after a "big type" bump at higher speeds. More info on my rig would be, Stock steering linkage ( I have a Currie set up, but have not installed it yet, want this issue resolved first), drop pit-man arm, stock steering box, Stock steering Stab, and just recently had a full set of upper and lower Ball joints installed. and a fresh alignment. So the only changes are the new ball joints & Alignment. Could or can these be causing my prob? I wouldn't think so, I would be more inclined to think worn out ball joints would if at all. But this did not happen before the new ball joints. Seem obvious but I am just not sure. Hope this post doesn't sound stupid, tried my best to explain it. If anyone has any ideas or similar experiences please reply. Thanks for the help.
 
Tcdawg

Tcdawg

New member
Check to see if your drag link and track bar are parallel. If not, that will give you bump steer.

New ball joints can take a few miles to break in as well. I know when I put my Synergy ball joints in my steering was a little sensitive but it settled down.
 
Last edited:
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Did you make sure to install a front track bar relocation bracket at the same time as your dropped pitman arm? This would have been absolutely necessary to do.
 
Big-T

Big-T

New member
wayoflife said:
Did you make sure to install a front track bar relocation bracket at the same time as your dropped pitman arm? This would have been absolutely necessary to do.
Click to expand...

Yes that was part of my Kit that was installed last year. This is a new problem that just started about a week ago, after the New ball joints & alignment.
 
Big-T

Big-T

New member
Tcdawg said:
Check to see if your drag link and track bar are parallel. If not, that will give you bump steer.

Yeah that was one of the first things I did check, and they are parallel. we even went over all track bars, and control arms to ensure all are torqued and there is no damaged or worn out parts.
Click to expand...
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Big-T said:
Yes that was part of my Kit that was installed last year. This is a new problem that just started about a week ago, after the New ball joints & alignment.
Click to expand...

You wouldn't happen to be running a CRC link setup in the rear, would you?
 
Big-T

Big-T

New member
wayoflife said:
You wouldn't happen to be running a CRC link setup in the rear, would you?
Click to expand...


please for give my ignorance to that, not sure what CRC means. If it means the type of control arms that mount to the center of the Dif then no I not. I have a Full Traction 4" Long arm.

update: Just looked that up because I wasn't familiar with that, yeah so definitely do not have FT's CRC setup.
 
Last edited:
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Big-T said:
please for give my ignorance to that, not sure what CRC means. If it means the type of control arms that mount to the center of the Dif then no I not. I have a Full Traction 4" Long arm.

update: Just looked that up because I wasn't familiar with that, yeah so definitely do not have FT's CRC setup.
Click to expand...

eh, it was just a thought as someone else I know with one has rear end issues but, not really like what you described.

I think what Tcdawg said is probably what you're experiencing. Some ball joints when new will tend to be too tight out of the box and enough so that they will hold your steering in the position. Not a whole lot of fun to deal with but, it will start to get better with time.
 
Big-T

Big-T

New member
wayoflife said:
eh, it was just a thought as someone else I know with one has rear end issues but, not really like what you described.

I think what Tcdawg said is probably what you're experiencing. Some ball joints when new will tend to be too tight out of the box and enough so that they will hold your steering in the position. Not a whole lot of fun to deal with but, it will start to get better with time.
Click to expand...

I am thinking the same thing, just wanted to make sure, ask a few questions didn't want to miss anything else that could be contributing to this. The Tech that installed them and did the Alignment mention that the lower right was tight but it should break in. Any pointers about that break in? if this keeps up much longer should I have them replace the right side BJ's? As of now there is a little over 500 miles on them.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Big-T said:
I am thinking the same thing, just wanted to make sure, ask a few questions didn't want to miss anything else that could be contributing to this. The Tech that installed them and did the Alignment mention that the lower right was tight but it should break in. Any pointers about that break in? if this keeps up much longer should I have them replace the right side BJ's? As of now there is a little over 500 miles on them.
Click to expand...

500 miles is a lot of miles and while I would think that would be more than enough to have them break in by now, I have seen and heard where some of the more popular ones take a lot longer than that and enough so that some have ended up replacing them with Moogs or the like.
 
dhughes

dhughes

Banned
wayoflife said:
500 miles is a lot of miles and while I would think that would be more than enough to have them break in by now, I have seen and heard where some of the more popular ones take a lot longer than that and enough so that some have ended up replacing them with Moogs or the like.
Click to expand...

Just changed my ball joints and after the jeep drove horrible. It took a good 1000 miles to get back to normal or we just don't notice anymore. I was very surprised when I first drove it but happy now and hope they will last longer than the last two sets of factory joints.
 
Big-T

Big-T

New member
wayoflife said:
500 miles is a lot of miles and while I would think that would be more than enough to have them break in by now, I have seen and heard where some of the more popular ones take a lot longer than that and enough so that some have ended up replacing them with Moogs or the like.
Click to expand...

Same here, 500 miles seems like a lot to me as well. The brand they installed are Alloy, they seemed like a better option over OEM and can be serviced. Think I'm gonna talk to the shop and see about getting them replaced. Then we'll see if this issue go's away. Thanks again for everyone's help.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Big-T said:
Same here, 500 miles seems like a lot to me as well. The brand they installed are Alloy, they seemed like a better option over OEM and can be serviced. Think I'm gonna talk to the shop and see about getting them replaced. Then we'll see if this issue go's away. Thanks again for everyone's help.
Click to expand...

Alloy and Synergy are the same joint and both suffer from this long term break-in.
 
dhughes

dhughes

Banned
Big-T said:
Well Defiantly sounds like this is whats going on. I'll run another 500 miles and see if the get's any better before I have them changed. Thanks guys
Click to expand...

So has it gotten any better since you put more miles on it?

Sent from my HTC One X using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Big-T

Big-T

New member
dhughes said:
So has it gotten any better since you put more miles on it?

Sent from my HTC One X using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Hey dhughes, thanks for checking back, no it did not so I pulled both front wheels off, pop the drag link and tie rod so i could have full access to the knuckles. the left side rotated as smooth as it should but the driver side took every bit I had to move it. So defiantly the Ball joint or joints were defective. call Ominx / Alloy and those guys were super, over nighted me a new set popped them in and all probs have been resolved, drove like it was new( what a relief). Talking to the rep at Alloy he mentioned that there was a bad batch and they had re-tooled the lower Ball joint to correct this issue. When I received the new set could defiantly see they were machined differently. I compared the two and found the old one had 0.05 thicker housing. my best guess is that was enough to cause extreme pressure on the joint, in turn making it next to impossible to move freely once installed in the knuckle. I would say the revised lower ball joint was improved to take less break in time as well, as it rotated very smooth, tighter than the left side with 800 miles but extremely effort less in comparison to the original right lower. So I dont know how long or well these will hold up but the customer service at Ominx / Alloy is fantastic. very nice people and above and beyond in there response to my email as well as the replacement of there product. To further add Ordered the EVO drag link flip / track bar relocate kit and the rear track bar relocate mount. Talking to Mel at EVO he schooled me on the issues I could be having from my FT long arm kit with there frame drop Track bar mounts so I will be adding the EVO parts next weekend. JK is driving / steering great but I still think there is room for improvement based on Mel's info, hope to get rid of it with the EVO parts and just maybe Ill have the money to install a PSC unit later this summer.
 
JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
Next Sunday I will be doing sleeves, gussets, and Alloy ball joints. I had purchased them a while ago before I read about all the break in problems with the Alloy joints. How can I tell if mine are from the "bad batch"?
 
Big-T

Big-T

New member
Jkrubi said:
Next Sunday I will be doing sleeves, gussets, and Alloy ball joints. I had purchased them a while ago before I read about all the break in problems with the Alloy joints. How can I tell if mine are from the "bad batch"?
Click to expand...

Sure wish I had taken a pic of them side by side, you can defiantly see a difference in there machining. Best guess would be to put the lower Ball joints in a vice one at a time and check the rotation of the joint to ensure they move freely before you install them. When I did this the "bad one" could hardly be moved with out putting a wrench on it as the new one was tight but could be moved by hand. Once installed the knuckles should move fairly easy, as I stated in the other post. The "bad" Lower ball joint made it nearly impossible to rotate the knuckle back and forth. I hope this helps in some way, but you will defiantly know if they are from the "bad batch" once you got them installed. This sure is crappy way to find out, I can tell you first hand. Hopefully someone else might have some better input on testing them before you go though all the effort. If it happens to be the case you have a bad set, give them a call at Alloy those guys are great , they will get you fixed right up with a new set. Good Luck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom