Rear tire carrier

simonjk

simonjk

Caught the Bug
I am in the process of building up my jk ready for 37s. From what I have learned is a tire carrier is required. I had my hopes set on the evo carrier. But I also noticed there is or fab and gen right who make similar ones. As in they are on the body with no bumper. My question is...can those be mounted onto the rear with skins in place. I want to armor up my jk but with bolting these carriers into the body, I didn't know if it was do-able. Any help would be greatly apriciated.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Attachments

  • 1368238963508.jpg
    1368238963508.jpg
    84.9 KB · Views: 130
  • 1368238974474.jpg
    1368238974474.jpg
    90.1 KB · Views: 130
Atch

Atch

New member
I can't remember who it is or where I seen it but someone on here is running EVO corner armor with a non-EVO carrier. Hopefully he will see this and help you out.
 
simonjk

simonjk

Caught the Bug
Hopefully. My main concern was would it weaken it, or bounce with them on.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Atch

Atch

New member
simonjk said:
Hopefully. My main concern was would it weaken it, or bounce with them on.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Everyone that runs the EVO setup (EVO skins & carrier), loves it and say that it's sturdy and rattle free.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
There is no issues with either carrier an the skins. You just have to drill holes into the body on the driver side so you would just drill through the skins as well.
 
StrizzyChris

StrizzyChris

New member
as long as you don't get the aluminum bot the or fab and the gen tire carriers could be welded to the EVO skins OR Im sure there would be a way to bolt through/onto them as designed with slight modifications.
 
simonjk

simonjk

Caught the Bug
Thanks for all the answers. Would it be safe going through an extra skin. (There what about 3/8" thick?) Also welding is a possibility. But I see that overtime maybe ripping the skins off.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
J

JethroJK

New member
I have the Or Fab and the only hole I see that would possibly be an issue is the driver side hole you drill to put mounting block for the latch. With the skin it would be thicker and it sits in the recess you drill so that might need some modification but not much. The passenger side where the hinge is mounts through the existing holes your swing gate uses with a reinforced bracket inside the rear quarter panel (access through rear taillight). My 2 cents...
 
simonjk

simonjk

Caught the Bug
Atch said:
Everyone that runs the EVO setup (EVO skins & carrier), loves it and say that it's sturdy and rattle free.
Click to expand...

I would love the evo set up. But its a little out my price range. And I think a 37 might look too small in it. (Maybe its just cause I keep seeing mobys big 40s)

Sent from my SCH-I535 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
simonjk

simonjk

Caught the Bug
Jethro71 said:
I have the Or Fab and the only hole I see that would possibly be an issue is the driver side hole you drill to put mounting block for the latch. With the skin it would be thicker and it sits in the recess you drill so that might need some modification but not much. The passenger side where the hinge is mounts through the existing holes your swing gate uses with a reinforced bracket inside the rear quarter panel (access through rear taillight). My 2 cents...
Click to expand...

How do you like the or fab? That carrier just requires drilling on the drivers?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
J

JethroJK

New member
simonjk said:
How do you like the or fab? That carrier just requires drilling on the drivers?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

I really like it so far. Carries a 35" Nitto Mud Grappler. Also I purchased the Rotopax version. No rattles, pretty solid and no complaints.

The only exterior hole is on the drivers side mounting lug for the latch. There are other drilling required but they are inside under the plastic moldings in the rear (2011 or older have different molding in rear) more carpet in those than 2012 or newer. Please correct me if I am wrong. The work is time consuming and a large part of the works happens through the rear taillight openings so if you have big hands it will be painful. I think there are 4 more holes required one of which drills from inside the taillight area so an angle drill is really nice if you have one.

Hope that helps. If you want pics or any other data let me know.
 
simonjk

simonjk

Caught the Bug
Jethro71 said:
I really like it so far. Carries a 35" Nitto Mud Grappler. Also I purchased the Rotopax version. No rattles, pretty solid and no complaints.

The only exterior hole is on the drivers side mounting lug for the latch. There are other drilling required but they are inside under the plastic moldings in the rear (2011 or older have different molding in rear) more carpet in those than 2012 or newer. Please correct me if I am wrong. The work is time consuming and a large part of the works happens through the rear taillight openings so if you have big hands it will be painful. I think there are 4 more holes required one of which drills from inside the taillight area so an angle drill is really nice if you have one.

Hope that helps. If you want pics or any other data let me know.
Click to expand...

Sounds good. Thanks for the info. Hopefully another few paychecks and I will have either this one or the gen right one.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
SDG

SDG

Caught the Bug
simonjk said:
Thanks for all the answers. Would it be safe going through an extra skin. (There what about 3/8" thick?) Also welding is a possibility. But I see that overtime maybe ripping the skins off.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

I think they are 3/16", if they were 3/8" (thats practically 1/2" thick and ~15lbs per sqr foot) that would need a hell of a lot more nut-serts and probably still rip the sheet metal right off the jeep. They wouldnt be skins at that point, more like anti RPG defense!

I would think you would be fine going through the extra skin, at least most of the weight would be distributes all the way around the corner panel and to a lot more surface area of sheet metal.
 
simonjk

simonjk

Caught the Bug
SDG said:
I think they are 3/16", if they were 3/8" (thats practically 1/2" thick and ~15lbs per sqr foot) that would need a hell of a lot more nut-serts and probably still rip the sheet metal right off the jeep. They wouldnt be skins at that point, more like anti RPG defense!

I would think you would be fine going through the extra skin, at least most of the weight would be distributes all the way around the corner panel and to a lot more surface area of sheet metal.
Click to expand...

Sorry I meant 3/16". But woukd be mice to have the added protection of rpg defense :D thanks for the info.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom