PDA

View Full Version : Factory JK D44 Rubicon E-Locker Wiring



matt
05-14-2012, 02:42 PM
Has anyone on here wired up a set of rubicon E-Lockers directly to a switch? I would like to confirm a few things before I proceed with wiring up my Rubicon lockers in my sport. I already have the wiring harness and started to strip it of un-needed wires.

Thanks.
Matt

Holeshot
05-19-2013, 01:44 PM
I just did it two days ago. Very simple, but I guess it would be better to use relays. I thought the lockers solenoid would not take this much power. My switches becomes very hot when lockers are ingaged. I'm gonna add relays later this week.

Rubicon e-locker have a status switch on the side of the diff, to tell the TIPM to light up the locker indicator in the cluster when they're ingaged. If you want to know how to use it, it's very simple. just let me know.

Serg5000
05-19-2013, 02:27 PM
I will be wiring mine direct to my spod. Switch is already in place.

Holeshot
05-19-2013, 03:01 PM
I plugued mine on contura switches, they're rated to 20A. I took a quick look over other forums and many guys are not running relays and still no concern after over a year of use.

I have an ORE switch panel in route anyway, so my contura switches will probably serve as "locker enable switch" as a safety.

This is what the actual setup looks like.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g75/holeshot753/2013-05-18104251_zps241a6235.jpg (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/holeshot753/media/2013-05-18104251_zps241a6235.jpg.html)

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g75/holeshot753/2013-05-18104303_zps5b612493.jpg (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/holeshot753/media/2013-05-18104303_zps5b612493.jpg.html)

jeeeep
05-19-2013, 03:12 PM
so...are you rewiring to engage the e-lockers in 4hi or another purpose? wondering why remove the factory switch

Holeshot
05-19-2013, 03:15 PM
Mine is a sport, not a rubi. I installed a pair of rubi axles last week. :standing wave:

jeeeep
05-19-2013, 04:04 PM
Mine is a sport, not a rubi. I installed a pair of rubi axles last week. :standing wave:

ahh! now that makes sense...

Clark Collins
05-21-2013, 11:18 PM
I just did it two days ago. Very simple, but I guess it would be better to use relays. I thought the lockers solenoid would not take this much power. My switches becomes very hot when lockers are ingaged. I'm gonna add relays later this week.

Rubicon e-locker have a status switch on the side of the diff, to tell the TIPM to light up the locker indicator in the cluster when they're ingaged. If you want to know how to use it, it's very simple. just let me know.

I am dealing with another forum member on a pair of rubicon axles and may want more info from you on the wiring. I would like to have the locker indicator in the cluster indicate when they are engaged. Are the switches holding up or should I plan on using relays? Where did you get the switches?

Holeshot
05-22-2013, 11:45 AM
I took a pic of my wiring diagram. Gonna post it later tonight.

I made research and found that many people are running the exact same setup I actually run (no relays), and for over a year without any issue. My switches are rated to 20Amps. Don't think the actuators are taking this much power.

Holeshot
05-22-2013, 01:55 PM
31264

I used contura rocker switches

http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=V1D1J66B-AYC80-FL1

http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=V1D1J66B-AYC80-RL1

nmwranglerx
05-22-2013, 06:29 PM
31264

I used contura rocker switches

http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=V1D1J66B-AYC80-FL1

http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=V1D1J66B-AYC80-RL1

cool thanks for the wiring diagram, helpful. I not very familiar with reading them but seems pretty self-explanatory. Those are the exact switches I purchased and plan on using. See if I got this right, you have 1 wire (what gauge by the way? 16?) coming from positive side to a 30 amp inline fuse to power both switches. How did you split the wire to run to each switch? Did you ground each switch separately?

Holeshot
05-22-2013, 06:55 PM
cool thanks for the wiring diagram, helpful. I not very familiar with reading them but seems pretty self-explanatory. Those are the exact switches I purchased and plan on using. See if I got this right, you have 1 wire (what gauge by the way? 16?) coming from positive side to a 30 amp inline fuse to power both switches. How did you split the wire to run to each switch? Did you ground each switch separately?

From the batt to the inside of the cab I used a 8ga wire BUT, I will add an entire switch panel later. If it is only for the switches, you can use 16ga all around.

to split the wires, I just spliced on the main power wire, and all soldered and isolated with special 3M tape that acts as a shrink tube. I also used 10 female terminals to connect to the switches .

You can ground the switches through the same wire (this is what I did but it's not drawn this way on the diagram). I grounded them on the lower part of the dash on the left, there's already 2 or 3 grounds from the factory dash harnesses.

The numbers on the switches are the pin numbers on the back of the switches. This way, the lower light will serve as a status light. Lit when engaged and off when not engaged. The upper light light up when you press the switch.

Clark Collins
05-23-2013, 01:24 PM
Anyone on this thread: As mentioned in my previous post I'm possibly going to buy rubi axles from another forum member. How tough was the axle swap? I do not have access to a lift and would be doing it with a floor jack and jack stands. Did you have a shop lift? I am 71 years old, but would have help doing this, and I don't want to have to pay to have them installed. I've installed all the mods to my JK myself so far, but those axles are heavy.

BTW I used to be an electrician and 16 guage is too small for a 30amp circuit. It's only good for about 10amps. 10 guage would be required on a 110v circuit and I think that DC circuits would likely need the same size wire to protect them. 14 is good for 15amp, 12 for 20amp and your 8 would be good for about 50amps I think. I never did DC work, but the purpose of the fuse is to protect the wiring. A heavy load on that 16 guage could cook the insulation right off it. Does anyone know what those actuators actually draw? They would likely have a larger load to actuate, but smaller load to maintain.

I really appreciate the information you are providing here. The wiring diagram and switch info will make that part of this project easy. It's great having a source for this kind of help.

Holeshot
05-23-2013, 02:02 PM
The axle swap itself is not very difficul. It took me 2h45 to drop the old (both) but took soo much longer to get back under the jeep. Gotta say that I installed new coils, new shocks, did a brake maintenance, flushed both diff and inspect + motor oil change and also had to clean some brackets.

All this with power tools, a shop lift, long stands and transmission jack and a tool box full of tool (mine, since I'm a technician in a ford dealer)


Concerning the wire gauge, according to this chart,

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

Between 0 and 20 ft, up to 10A you can use 16ga. BUT, if I look at the factory wiring diagram, the wire used are 18GA, so I guess 16 is enough :thumb: In the OE diagram, they use relays, but its because it is controlled by the TIPM which use a very low current to drive power to the actuators.

The 30 amp I used is only in case of a short, I could have used a 10 or 15 amp and maybe it would be fine. When I get a chance I will measure the amp draw on the actuator circuit.

hope this help.

nmwranglerx
05-23-2013, 05:08 PM
if I look at the factory wiring diagram, the wire used are 18GA, so I guess 16 is enough :thumb:

hope this help.

In my research I found the actuator only draws about 4 amps. I did not do the test myself but got info from a reliable source. I'd be interested to hear what you find out...

nmwranglerx
05-23-2013, 05:12 PM
Clark, I will be swapping out the rear axle this weekend in my driveway. I'll be using jack stands and hand tools of which I have a pretty good collection. I've done a fair amount of mods this way, from transfer case swap to driveshaft replacement. Also installed a coil suspension lift before getting my current long arm setup. I'll have a buddy helping me out. I feel pretty confident about it. Just gonna take my time. I'll let you know how it goes.

BADDANDY
11-25-2013, 05:00 AM
I just did mine to day to my 2013 Sport with 2013 Rubi axles.

First off was to order a Daystar switch panel that replaces the net panel in front of the shifter. These are only for auto trans, but I modified it to work with my manual as shown in the pics. The trimming is required to allow the panel to fit over the shifter boot, looks ugly, but can't be seen as it's hidden by the boot. I ordered 2 Contura switches and bought a safety guard power switch to operate the lockers. I thought I had a pic of the wiring of the switches, but I must of forgot to. With all those pins, I only have 6 wires coming out of the panel. I've included a pic of the diagram of how I wiried the switches and at least I got a pic of the backside with the switches in the panel.

Next was to buy a stock Rubi locker harness, totally strip it down and rebuild it up to the 4 connectors needed. As you can see, it's not a stand-alone harness stock so was a bit of work. I routed the rear harness I made through the right tail-light housing into the cabin and fed it forward under the bed lip and pax-side kick-panels. I still need to install the front harness as I only have a few hours of warmth to work in during this cold snap, so will post a follow-up for that later.

I found an orange/grey dimming wire in an exposed harness in the pax footwell and tapped that for the locker identity light on the switches. I have an 8 post fuse panel mounted behind the glove-box for accessories that I used for On power with a 15amp fuse. A relay is not requied for this install. Ground posts are everywhere on my Jeep, so just use one convenient for you. I used one in the pax footwell.

Basically what I have is, green locker switch identity lights wiried into the dimming light circuit, a Master power switch that feeds power to the locker switch, and when the locker switch is On, sends power to the locker and when the locker contacts in the axle closes and completes a ground, the Red locked light illuminates providing a positive locked indication.



57847
57848
57849
57850
57851
57852
57853
57854
57855
57856

Holeshot
11-25-2013, 12:21 PM
I like how you did your wiring. I wonder why I didn't think about it. Put the status switch in line with the locker actuator, and use the bottom light of my switches on the parking light circuit.. I might do an upgrade sometime :thinking:

BADDANDY
11-28-2013, 06:34 PM
I like how you did your wiring. I wonder why I didn't think about it. Put the status switch in line with the locker actuator, and use the bottom light of my switches on the parking light circuit.. I might do an upgrade sometime :thinking:

This is how I did my positive locked lights on my TJ, but I don't want to go tearing into a non-rattling dash and cause that to happen.

58186

Clark Collins
10-03-2014, 01:47 PM
Clark, I will be swapping out the rear axle this weekend in my driveway. I'll be using jack stands and hand tools of which I have a pretty good collection. I've done a fair amount of mods this way, from transfer case swap to driveshaft replacement. Also installed a coil suspension lift before getting my current long arm setup. I'll have a buddy helping me out. I feel pretty confident about it. Just gonna take my time. I'll let you know how it goes.

I am finally getting around to getting a set of Rubi axles from a forum member and have come back to this thread. Tell me how your axle swap went. I haven't picked up the axles yet and any information you can share to make this project easier would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone else who has done an axle swap this way feel free to chime in. Thanks!

Clark Collins
10-23-2014, 04:02 AM
Thanks to all the folks who posted info on their Rubicon axle swap and locker wiring on the forum. I kept going back and forth from my garage and the computer while doing my swap to look up various items related to it. I don’t know how I could have done it without that info.
My swap went well, but was much more time consuming than I expected. I think I lost about 5 lbs getting up and down fetching the tools I needed. 3 more axle swaps and I’ll be about where my weight should be. It took me two 12 hr days, but I only had help for about 3 hours installing the new axles and loose fitting all the bolts for later locktiteing and torqueing by myself. I wish I had made a check-off list to ensure that everything was properly fastened and torqued. I missed a rear lower control arm bolt that I only caught when doing the locker electrical hook up as the final step. I also caught a rear spring not seated properly while I was under there. Future axle swappers – do a check-off list so you don’t have to sit and stare at the axles hoping you didn’t forget something.
Following are a few suggestions that might help future axle swappers so you don’t have to search other threads for the necessary information.
1. Disconnect the cables for the hand brake from their brackets to facilitate unhooking the cable. I had the brake rotors off for this step because I think that is necessary for slack in the cable.
2. The red tab on the rear speed sensor pushes sideways to unlock the electrical connection.
3. On the front speed sensor the connection at the axle is impossible to remove or install without bending the splash guard out of the way a bit on the old and new axle. It bends right back when you are done connecting to the new axle.
4. I suggest having the locker wiring at the axles all hooked up with the proper length of wire to reach your switches and routing that wire after the axles are in place rather than having to make those connections while under the jeep as I did. I had the wires routed ahead of time and making the final connections while under the jeep was a pain. I used one common ground from both the actuator and the indicator and one hot lead to each with different color wire. I used the Contra switches wired with the lower light wired to be hot on RUN and the upper light to be controlled by the indicator switch to show when the locker is actually on. Sort of like BADDANDY's wiring diagram.
5. The front axle takes about 1 quarts of oil and the rear about 2 quarts even with after-market dif covers, if the RuffStuff covers on my axles are any indication.
6. If you don’t need to lose weight, having someone just to hand you tools would be a great help. I guess a roll around tool tray could serve that function as well. A heavy duty ” Impact wrench is not a necessity, but would probably be worth the investment for this job alone if you don’t have one. You need metric sockets from 8mm up to 22mm, a 5mm alan wrench for the front speed sensor, a torque wrench and blue Locktite . A “bull peter”, or spike if you prefer, is useful for aligning bolt holes during re-assembly.
7. I used a fuse tap from the un-used front heated seat fuse position in the fuse box under the hood. I used the rear heated seat position for my LED light bar power. Both of these are only hot on RUN. (see attached photo) The existing locker fuse position is always hot or I would have used that one for the lockers.
8. Other threads show a foam filled hole accessible behind the right and left dash panel end cover that provides wiring access into the engine compartment just under the rear corners of the hood. I used this access to route the wiring into the dash area and to and from the switches and the power and lockers. I cut the stock left A piller cover to mount the switches as shown in the attached photo. There is room for the switches and associated wiring to clear everything if you cut them in as close to the windshield as possible and make sure they don’t interfere with the mounting clip holes in the A piller. My photo shows the Sharpy lines, but they don't show in normal light.
9. The front drive shaft is easy, but the rear requires a drift punch to drive that connection at the axle apart. When reinstalling the rear shaft make sure you have it aligned correctly so the bolts fit through to a threaded hole and not the larger holes there for the drift punch ( I made this mistake). Tie the shaft out of the way during disassembly and you have to compress the shaft by hand in order for it to fit back into the pinion flange.
10. I got wire loom cover at Harbor Freight to protect the locker wiring. Primary wire is fairly inexpensive in various colors at any of the auto parts stores and I used 16 gauge fused at 15amps. Heat shrink butt connectors were used to connect my wires to the factory connectors that I got with my axles from another forum member.
Thanks again to all the forum members who post their “how to” threads for the benefit of us all. I hope this post is helpful as well.
106416106417

H8ROADS
10-23-2014, 01:50 PM
Good info and thread!

CharlieK
10-23-2014, 09:01 PM
I am finally getting around to getting a set of Rubi axles from a forum member and have come back to this thread. Tell me how your axle swap went. I haven't picked up the axles yet and any information you can share to make this project easier would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone else who has done an axle swap this way feel free to chime in. Thanks!

I swapped my front out last weekend. I used jack stands and hands tools, took right at 2 hours to drop and install new one. Real straight forward.

JK505
12-05-2014, 09:12 AM
I swapped my front out last weekend. I used jack stands and hands tools, took right at 2 hours to drop and install new one. Real straight forward.

Can somebody dumb this WAY down please? I understand how to swap the axles out, but lockers are completely foreign to me, especially electric lockers. I'm picking up a front rubi D44 and looking to use the factory locker in it, but unsure how to wire it. And as sad as this is to say, I used to be an electrician and that wiring digram makes half sense to me. What's the box in the middle with 1-6 on it?:thinking:

Just realized you all are using wire harnesses, I was over thinking this. Sorry.

CharlieK
12-05-2014, 06:22 PM
The harness was around 25-30 bucks

H8ROADS
12-05-2014, 06:29 PM
Can somebody dumb this WAY down please? I understand how to swap the axles out, but lockers are completely foreign to me, especially electric lockers. I'm picking up a front rubi D44 and looking to use the factory locker in it, but unsure how to wire it. And as sad as this is to say, I used to be an electrician and that wiring digram makes half sense to me. What's the box in the middle with 1-6 on it?:thinking:

Just realized you all are using wire harnesses, I was over thinking this. Sorry.

I think you're talking about the relay in the diagram.

Clark Collins
12-05-2014, 06:56 PM
Can somebody dumb this WAY down please? I understand how to swap the axles out, but lockers are completely foreign to me, especially electric lockers. I'm picking up a front rubi D44 and looking to use the factory locker in it, but unsure how to wire it. And as sad as this is to say, I used to be an electrician and that wiring digram makes half sense to me. What's the box in the middle with 1-6 on it?:thinking:

Just realized you all are using wire harnesses, I was over thinking this. Sorry.

I think the box you are asking about in the wiring diagram is the switch and the terminals are 2-3 & 6-7-8. When you see the information for the "Contra" switch it shows the normally open contacts between terminal 2 & 3 that completes the circuit to actuate the locker. Terminals 2 & 6 are shown as 12v "hot" with terminal 7 connected to the indicator switch in the axle that energized a light to show when the axle has actually locked. Terminal 8 goes to ground so that the other light on the switch is on when you push the switch.

There is another way to wire this up so that one of the lights is on all the time that the jeep is running, to illuminate the switch, and the other light shows when the axle is actually locked. I did mine this way and didn't use a wiring harness, but the axles I got had both parts of the connectors at the axles. My previous post shows where I got the power to wire mine this way. Let me know if you want more info about this.

Clark Collins
12-05-2014, 10:50 PM
113555

I decided to go ahead and post a diagram of how I wired my locker switches. The internal switch diagram shows which terminals are connected to which light on the switches that I purchased online. Do a web search on 4x4 locker switches. I connected so that the bottom light illuminates "Front Locker" or "Rear Locker" on the switch and the top light illuminates the dif lock symbol to show when the dif is actually locked. Wiring this to a switched power source illuminates the switch so you can see it in the dark. There is no light illuminated when you push the switch as in the previous diagram -- you know when you push the switch. As you can see in the diagram terminal 3 is wired to the locker actuator and terminal 8 is wired to the internal switch in the Rubicon differential. The negative wires from both the actuator and the switch are then wired to ground and terminal 7 is also wired to ground. I used different color wires purchased from Auto Zone -- Red for the 12v positive -- Black for the negative wired to ground and two different colors for the switch and actuator in the differential. Only three wires to each axle enclosed in plastic wire loom from Harbor Freight. There are several ground terminals throughout our Jeeps and I used one under the driver side dash end cover near where I mounted the switches.

113556

Blkfenderslookbetter
03-05-2015, 02:15 PM
I'm getting ready to do this swap on my '13 Sport Unltd. I have the dual LED sPod that I will be using for wiring up my new lockers... Is it possible to make it so that the upper lights on the sPOD switch are only on when the lockers are engaged? Sort of like an indicator?

I see what you all have done when going directly to the Contura switch... but can you do the same with the sPOD?

doooodo
04-04-2015, 01:40 AM
At it's most simple, to activate the locker, is it just one prong from the top plug to the positive battery terminal, and the other prong from the top plug to a ground? Just trying to get to the very basics of the many wiring diagrams I'm seeing. Much obliged.

jedg
04-04-2015, 08:12 PM
At it's most simple, to activate the locker, is it just one prong from the top plug to the positive battery terminal, and the other prong from the top plug to a ground? Just trying to get to the very basics of the many wiring diagrams I'm seeing. Much obliged.


Yep, that's pretty much it. Obviously you should run with at least a fuse. I have mine wired with a relay through my own fuse/relay panel. I use a OTRATTW switch with the upper light indicating that I've activated the locker and the lower (bar) light indicating that locker engaged.

Number 1 is the locker and number 2 is the sensor.


135120

Z Hunter
07-20-2015, 03:01 PM
This thread has some useful info in it, thanks. I do have a few questions that maybe you guys can help with.

In that last image showing the connectors, # 2 is labeled as the sensor. Is there anyway to test if that sensor is bad or the wiring back to the switch on the dash?

jedg
07-21-2015, 01:53 AM
This thread has some useful info in it, thanks. I do have a few questions that maybe you guys can help with.

In that last image showing the connectors, # 2 is labeled as the sensor. Is there anyway to test if that sensor is bad or the wiring back to the switch on the dash?

You would need to put the jeep on blocks (all four corners). Then put it in 4LO and lock the front diff. If the sensor is working, it will close the switch at the diff. If you have a multimeter in set for resistance (ohms) then it should read a closed circuit by placing the multimeter probes on each of the prongs on the sensor.

doooodo
08-21-2015, 09:29 PM
Yep, that's pretty much it. Obviously you should run with at least a fuse. I have mine wired with a relay through my own fuse/relay panel. I use a OTRATTW switch with the upper light indicating that I've activated the locker and the lower (bar) light indicating that locker engaged.

Number 1 is the locker and number 2 is the sensor.


135120

Thanks @Jedg. Just got the new Rubi axle swapped in, so now it's time to learn a thing or two about wiring...

jedg
08-21-2015, 09:31 PM
Thanks @Jedg. Just got the new Rubi axle swapped in, so now it's time to learn a thing or two about wiring...

No worries. But, credit where it's due. This forum is where I got 100% of the information for the wiring. That picture included.

doooodo
08-23-2015, 01:59 AM
Here's another question:

I'll be wiring it up with female connectors and the like, not using the harness. How do people usually waterproof/solidify the connections to the actuator and indicator? For the actuator, I feel totally comfortable epoxying the heck out of the cavity, because if something ever goes wrong or I need to remove it, a new plug is $20. For the indicator though, that plunger can only be removed (if I understand correctly) by pulling the carrier, which would be a huge pain. If I epoxied in the connections to the indicator, that would be a little too permanent for my liking. Any other suggestions?

LASJK
02-05-2016, 11:56 PM
Here's another question:

I'll be wiring it up with female connectors and the like, not using the harness. How do people usually waterproof/solidify the connections to the actuator and indicator? For the actuator, I feel totally comfortable epoxying the heck out of the cavity, because if something ever goes wrong or I need to remove it, a new plug is $20. For the indicator though, that plunger can only be removed (if I understand correctly) by pulling the carrier, which would be a huge pain. If I epoxied in the connections to the indicator, that would be a little too permanent for my liking. Any other suggestions?

I am doing this install right now and I just use RTV to hold the pins in the connectors

evilsliderboy
03-19-2016, 11:51 PM
Ok I have put in rubi axles in my sport and they came with the connectors on the axles but they were cut about 3 feet off the axle. My questions are, can't I just solder the wires to 1 ground and 1 power? The other question is if I am using a dbox do I even need the second wires off the axle that shows it's engaged? If my switches turn the power on and off that should be all I need right?

Clark Collins
03-20-2016, 04:43 PM
You are correct. There is no need to wire anything to the engagement indicator switch. I think it is handy to have indicator lights wired to that switch, but it isn't necessary.

SarahLu
04-10-2016, 01:57 AM
This thread has so much useful info, thanks for sharing everyone!

jkugeza
04-10-2016, 05:28 PM
I just finished mine also. The indicator plunger does not need to be filled in. The 2 cables from the top of the axle are a positive and ground. Hook them up to the dbox and rock and roll.

DirtysJK
06-04-2016, 12:30 PM
If all goes well I will be using this guide to install a new to me axle. Thanks for the great advice

SarahLu
06-15-2016, 02:33 PM
We are doing my swap next weekend and just looked this over again. I have switches, relays and fuses, but looks like I forgot wire (duh) and shrink tubing!

SarahLu
06-27-2016, 10:39 AM
Completed my swap and couldn't be happier. Thanks again for all the tips and advice shared! http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160627/d77fef1607dab2e1d5f398de51e2592f.jpg

TacticalTortuga
10-14-2016, 08:39 PM
Thanks for all the great info! Just to clarify, the indicator plug with 2 wires, one from switch as shown in diagram and other to ground? Or is it one from switch and one from fused 12v power? Locker activation plug should be wire from switch and ground? Thanks!

Clark Collins
10-15-2016, 02:45 AM
I don't know what all has been going on with this thread, but here is the info on the "locked" indicator light wiring. If your locker switch has a separate indicator light to show when the locker is actually engaged there should be 12v power to that light (at the switch terminal 3 when the switch makes the connection between terminal 2 & 3 to energize the locker actuator) with a wire from terminal 8 going to one of the axle leads going to the plunger switch that is activated when the locker actually locks. The other lead from that plunger goes to ground completing the circuit from that light to ground when actually locked. The bottom light is on all the time to illuminate the locker switch for nighttime operation. If you have no second light (top light) at the switch you don't wire anything to the indicator plunger switch. It is not necessary to actuate the locker, as a simple toggle switch supplying 12v power to the actuator would accomplish that.

TacticalTortuga
10-15-2016, 02:48 AM
Thanks that's exactly what I needed. Just wanted to confirm that power would come from switch and didn't need separate hot wire run which seemed way overkill. Indicator light turned is just turned on when circuit becomes complete to ground upon engagement of locker right?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Clark Collins
10-16-2016, 01:43 AM
Right!! That's how it works.

Kilodog
03-17-2017, 12:25 AM
Love this write up! I just purchased j8 crate 44's 4:10's... Gonna follow this guide.

One question, the contra switch website seems to be gone, which switches are appropriate for this?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Fritcherc
03-17-2017, 04:18 PM
Here are the Mopar part numbers for the locker and the locker sensor if your swapping to Rubicon axles with elockers.

68148098AA is for the locker.

05017117AA is for the sensor.


Chris

Fritcherc
03-17-2017, 04:21 PM
Here is a site for switches.

http://www.otrattw.net/home.php

Im getting ready to install those same axles.

Chris






Love this write up! I just purchased j8 crate 44's 4:10's... Gonna follow this guide.

One question, the contra switch website seems to be gone, which switches are appropriate for this?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Kilodog
03-17-2017, 07:49 PM
Here are the Mopar part numbers for the locker and the locker sensor if your swapping to Rubicon axles with elockers.

68148098AA is for the locker.

05017117AA is for the sensor.


Chris

What is the 05017117AA sensor?
I know 68148098AA is the wire harness, ordered one last night..


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Fritcherc
03-17-2017, 07:56 PM
On the axles there are two plugs, the one at the top is 68148098AA, that locks the locker, the one at the bottom 05017117AA is the sensor that can be wired to a switch LED or LED to show you when the locker is engaged. If you have a locker in the front and rear axle you will need 2 68148098AA (one for front and one for rear) and 2 05017117AA (one for front and one for the rear). Hope that helps.

Chris



What is the 05017117AA sensor?
I know 68148098AA is the wire harness, ordered one last night..


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Kilodog
03-19-2017, 02:41 AM
On the axles there are two plugs, the one at the top is 68148098AA, that locks the locker, the one at the bottom 05017117AA is the sensor that can be wired to a switch LED or LED to show you when the locker is engaged. If you have a locker in the front and rear axle you will need 2 68148098AA (one for front and one for rear) and 2 05017117AA (one for front and one for the rear). Hope that helps.

Chris

I dunno, from what I'm reading the 68148098aa is the entire harness from mopar.. And I don't think mopar sent me drop in axles where I have to break down the axle to put plunger sensors in. You just put a halt to my build, we will see Monday.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Fritcherc
03-19-2017, 05:08 AM
The J8 axles, 410 gears, with elockers there are two plugs,

248792

1 is 68148098AA is used to lock the locker

2 is 05017117AA the sensor that you can wire to an LED to see when the locker is locked

if you have a locker in the front and rear you will need 2 68148098AA and if you want to use the sensors to tell when the lockers are locked you will need 2 05017117AA. Google those part numbers.

Kilodog
03-27-2017, 04:27 PM
The J8 axles, 410 gears, with elockers there are two plugs,

248792

1 is 68148098AA is used to lock the locker

2 is 05017117AA the sensor that you can wire to an LED to see when the locker is locked

if you have a locker in the front and rear you will need 2 68148098AA and if you want to use the sensors to tell when the lockers are locked you will need 2 05017117AA. Google those part numbers.

Thanks for the redirect Fritcherc, called the place that sold me the crates and they had the harnesses in stock..

2 - 05017117AA
250308

2 - 68158098AA
250309

These are stock rubicon D44 plugs. 2 locker actuators and 2 sensor. The 6815's (locker) look to be about 20 feet in length waterproofed and wrapped. The 0501's (sensor) need built. Not sure why they sent 4 wires for each sensor plug, but I'm sure I'll figure it out. Each package cost around 25$, look to spend a little over 100$ to have them shipped.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Fritcherc
03-27-2017, 05:53 PM
Got the axles installed, everything seems to be working fine, next weekend I will do the wiring and install the switches for the lockers. So far so good!:thumb:

Kilodog
03-27-2017, 10:04 PM
Got the axles installed, everything seems to be working fine, next weekend I will do the wiring and install the switches for the lockers. So far so good!:thumb:

I didn't realize you were doing axle swaps too.. got both axles in on mine and waiting on lower control arms to show up tomorrow. Thing is lookin like beast mode!!
250372250373250374250375


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Fritcherc
03-27-2017, 10:39 PM
Yes did the swap this weekend, install went pretty smooth with some help and ratchet straps, lol. Did you install a lift? Why new lower control arms? Just curious.

Kilodog
03-28-2017, 06:23 PM
Yes did the swap this weekend, install went pretty smooth with some help and ratchet straps, lol. Did you install a lift? Why new lower control arms? Just curious.

No lift (already lifted), castor is off and didn't want drop brackets.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Kilodog
04-02-2017, 06:26 PM
251429

Does this look ok? The axle is perched so this is where everything will hang during normal driving conditions. I'm not sure how else I would route these. My fear is these brake lines are too long...? Never put extended lines on before.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

madstiles
04-02-2017, 06:47 PM
251429

Does this look ok? The axle is perched so this is where everything will hang during normal driving conditions. I'm not sure how else I would route these. My fear is these brake lines are too long...? Never put extended lines on before.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)
Don't know what those u bolts hold but I would flip them so they don't catch anything or cut them, brake lines look good they are nice did you check the length?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Kilodog
04-03-2017, 05:02 AM
Don't know what those u bolts hold but I would flip them so they don't catch anything or cut them, brake lines look good they are nice did you check the length?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

The length should be good, haven't tested the new axles yet so I'll be checking. Lines stated they would clear 4.5" lift so i will be good on that front. On my JKUR, there is a bracket that mounts to the back of the axle brackets, my 09 didn't have them, I'm afraid to let these lines free float like that.

Those ubolts are a pro Comp dual stabilizer setup.., I'm a little disappointed in the hangers. Prolly going to cut them.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

EdL
05-14-2017, 01:15 AM
I am installing rubicon axels in my jk . wire harnesses will be here wed are they just a simple 2 wire hook up power and ground to activate

Sent from my SM-G930V using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Kilodog
05-14-2017, 01:19 AM
I am installing rubicon axels in my jk . wire harnesses will be here wed are they just a simple 2 wire hook up power and ground to activate

Sent from my SM-G930V using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Yes. Make sure you buy quality switches or run relays. I did both.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

toyotire
05-14-2017, 03:07 PM
ditto above. you might install some switch covers so you don't accidently flip them on. we just did a simple switch on my biddy's sport and works great. actually better than my stock as it disconnects much quicker. also he can lock in 4 hi which is nice in the snow sometimes.

EdL
05-14-2017, 03:22 PM
Thanks cant wait to get it done

Sent from my SM-G930V using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Clark Collins
05-15-2017, 12:23 PM
I've posted the attached wiring diagram on this thread before, but it has been a while. Here it is again so you don't have to search for it.

The diagram is for a "locker" switch with an indicator light to show when it is actually locked. Rubicon axles have an internal switch for that purpose. There is no need whatever for the use of a relay as the locker is very low current draw.

austin160
05-15-2017, 03:19 PM
I am in the process of wiring mine in. I have decided to go with an sPod though. Hopefully will make wiring a little easier and since I am running a York air compressor it will run off the sPod also.

EdL
05-21-2017, 01:04 AM
After installing new gears in my jk i received a check engine light pluvged in my reader and it gave me a incorrect gear ratio do i need to take to dealer to get fixed or can most parts stores reset

Sent from my SM-G930V using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

madstiles
05-21-2017, 02:04 AM
After installing new gears in my jk i received a check engine light pluvged in my reader and it gave me a incorrect gear ratio do i need to take to dealer to get fixed or can most parts stores reset

Sent from my SM-G930V using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)
If you have a programmer you should be able to set correct ratio and clear codes. Parts store can clear codes but not set ratio. I don't know of dealer can set ratio or not but I almost guarantee you can get a programmer for what they'll charge you lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

EdL
05-21-2017, 03:29 AM
Thats what i figired thanks

Sent from my SM-G930V using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Samuelh3
05-21-2017, 04:33 PM
Good stuff here. Wish there was a favorite button on the threads


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

mauijim
05-24-2017, 04:43 PM
On the axles there are two plugs, the one at the top is 68148098AA, that locks the locker, the one at the bottom 05017117AA is the sensor that can be wired to a switch LED or LED to show you when the locker is engaged. If you have a locker in the front and rear axle you will need 2 68148098AA (one for front and one for rear) and 2 05017117AA (one for front and one for the rear). Hope that helps.

Chris

Hey I've been reading this post as I just installed front and rear Rubicon axles into my 2012 jk sport. The wiring harness was cut and left me with about a foot of harness. It has 4 wires and I'm guessing I'm going to use only 2 of them, hot & ground, cause I have installed rocker switches and I don't believe my dash will show that the locker is on cause it's a sport and I'm not worried about it anyway cause my rockers light up when switched on. My question is which 2 of the 4 wires do I use. Those diagrams are useless to me cause I don't get it. Lol.
Was wondering if you could help me with this. Appreciate it. Thanks



Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

EdL
06-09-2017, 02:33 AM
Well got my d44s in lockers wired up all works great

Sent from my SM-G930V using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

kohrnholio
07-09-2017, 09:12 PM
I've posted the attached wiring diagram on this thread before, but it has been a while. Here it is again so you don't have to search for it.

The diagram is for a "locker" switch with an indicator light to show when it is actually locked. Rubicon axles have an internal switch for that purpose. There is no need whatever for the use of a relay as the locker is very low current draw.

So I am wiring this up with a SPOD can this still be done this way or am I going to have to do something different with the wiring? I like the way you have this so it indicates it is locked.

Thanks

shrekjk
09-28-2017, 01:36 AM
Im dealing with the wiring issue as well. I found a dana 44 from a rubi, got the e locker installed at a shop because they re-geared that axle and my factory rear axle to 4.88. Basically the shop told me there are no jumper harnesses or anything, I would need to go through a professional wiring person. They are saying I cannot hard wire in the locker because the locker is engaged by 4v instead of a direct 12v, and that if the 12v is used it can burn the solders off the sliding clutch inside the housing, they are also saying that the lower plug on the axle needs to be tied in so it will allow you to engage the locker only when in 4L. my jeep in not a rubi, the front axle is a d44 with e-locker, any help please?

JKDream
09-28-2017, 05:48 AM
Im dealing with the wiring issue as well. I found a dana 44 from a rubi, got the e locker installed at a shop because they re-geared that axle and my factory rear axle to 4.88. Basically the shop told me there are no jumper harnesses or anything, I would need to go through a professional wiring person. They are saying I cannot hard wire in the locker because the locker is engaged by 4v instead of a direct 12v, and that if the 12v is used it can burn the solders off the sliding clutch inside the housing, they are also saying that the lower plug on the axle needs to be tied in so it will allow you to engage the locker only when in 4L. my jeep in not a rubi, the front axle is a d44 with e-locker, any help please?
Run very far away from that shop.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

piginajeep
09-28-2017, 07:06 AM
Run very far away from that shop.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

Yup, they dont know their ass from a hole in the ground


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)

austin160
09-28-2017, 04:48 PM
So I am wiring this up with a SPOD can this still be done this way or am I going to have to do something different with the wiring? I like the way you have this so it indicates it is locked.

Thanks

If you are wiring to an sPod, you need two wires going from the actuator to the sPod. I bought the harness pig tails from Jeep for 45$ each, plug in at the axle, zip tie however you want to run, then red wire to the SW terminal and black wire to GRD. Cant get an easier than that. I'm not going to use the switch indicator. I will probably pull it and cut the plunger off then reinstall it as a plug for that hole.

TeamFaust
07-30-2019, 04:13 AM
Okay, just because I don't see it mentioned...two questions:
1) Where is the rear portion of the factory Rubicon Rear Locker harness run (inside to the back then out and down, or from engine bay underneath to the back...along)?
2) Those who did a Rubi axle swap into a Sahara or Sport, how/where did you run your wires to the rear locker?

OverlanderJK
07-30-2019, 04:14 AM
Okay, just because I don't see it mentioned...two questions:
1) Where is the rear portion of the factory Rubicon Rear Locker harness run (inside to the back then out and down, or from engine bay underneath to the back...along)?
2) Those who did a Rubi axle swap into a Sahara or Sport, how/where did you run your wires to the rear locker?

I just ran the wires in a wire loom and through the frame with the rock lights.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=73415)