Leaking Front Pinion

BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
JeepJeep75 said:
LOL!! I love all the variety of info here! I was in your exact same situation when I installed my Adams front 1350 drive line. It requires you take the factory pinion flange off the front axle and install a different one on. So, after sifting through all the different opinions, I called Adams and spoke to one of their techs. He told me yes, there IS a crush-sleeve and NO, there isn't a set torque number you can dial up and hit with your torque wrench. This is the "go-on-your-own" part. Since I wasn't using an impact wrench he told me to use my breaker bar and tighten the nut down "tight". WTF right? Well that's what I did and I did feel the nut tighten down and kind of stop. I applied a bit more pressure and then I felt the nut kind of "give" a little bit. That's right where I stopped. No problems since then and 15k miles later still no issues. There isn't a definitive answer on this. You can take all the readings you want, but short of completely stripping and replacing every part in the front end, this is another method. Good luck James![emoji106]


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😂 okay. I guess I'll just keep my fingers crossed and if it blows it'll force my regear plans up a few months.
 
VeruGE*144

VeruGE*144

Caught the Bug
JeepJeep75 said:
LOL!! I love all the variety of info here! I was in your exact same situation when I installed my Adams front 1350 drive line. It requires you take the factory pinion flange off the front axle and install a different one on. So, after sifting through all the different opinions, I called Adams and spoke to one of their techs. He told me yes, there IS a crush-sleeve and NO, there isn't a set torque number you can dial up and hit with your torque wrench. This is the "go-on-your-own" part. Since I wasn't using an impact wrench he told me to use my breaker bar and tighten the nut down "tight". WTF right? Well that's what I did and I did feel the nut tighten down and kind of stop. I applied a bit more pressure and then I felt the nut kind of "give" a little bit. That's right where I stopped. No problems since then and 15k miles later still no issues. There isn't a definitive answer on this. You can take all the readings you want, but short of completely stripping and replacing every part in the front end, this is another method. Good luck James![emoji106]


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That's the same thing Adams driveshaft told me to do. It's been way over 6 months and no problems. I did both front and rear


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
black pearl said:
Can't still check and just see if it's still in spec range by pulling the driveline and checking resistance at the pinion nut? That's what I did when I changed out my yoke measured resistance changed it tourqed it down and remeasured the resistance and set it a touch higher


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Yes.

fiend said:
This works best if you actually remove the axle shafts and carrier so you can get accurate before and after readings of required torque to spin the pinion by itself. But if you're doing this much work, tapping the pinion out and replacing the crush sleeve isn't much beyond that. I'm skeptical that taking torque readings with the carrier and shafts in will be all that accurate. Given the amount of work, I like your suggestion of just smearing some RTV on the outside and calling it a day. Unless you're dripping fluid at a pretty high rate, a little weeping isn't going to harm anything other than OCD tendencies and maybe a pristine driveway. Besides, You can always top up the diff fluid from time to time.


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This is accurate. To achieve manufacturer specs, you would have the carrier removed and be only spinning the pinion. However if you had it all assembled, you still would just measure your turning resistance before and after, and set your 'after' number about an inch pound or two more than your 'before' reading.
 
Exodus 4x4

Exodus 4x4

New member
BaddestCross said:
[emoji23] okay. I guess I'll just keep my fingers crossed and if it blows it'll force my regear plans up a few months.
Click to expand...

You're fine. You got it as tight as you could without being able to put too much leverage on it, which is probably perfect. It takes a lot more torque to manipulate a crush sleeve than what people think it does. By doing it the way you did you probably put it right back where it was and that's exactly what you needed to do.


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BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
Granite_head said:
You're fine. You got it as tight as you could without being able to put too much leverage on it, which is probably perfect. It takes a lot more torque to manipulate a crush sleeve than what people think it does. By doing it the way you did you probably put it right back where it was and that's exactly what you needed to do.


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Thanks for the vote of confidence! 👍

About 300 miles at 75-80mph and so far, so good.
 
jorgelrod

jorgelrod

Hooked
The Pinion seal on my PR44 is leaking, I'm having the oil changed friday and the front Drivesaft so I'm gonna have them replace that seal. What is the mopar part #for that seal, I want to make sure that they use a Mopar and not replacement...
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
jorgelrod said:
The Pinion seal on my PR44 is leaking, I'm having the oil changed friday and the front Drivesaft so I'm gonna have them replace that seal. What is the mopar part #for that seal, I want to make sure that they use a Mopar and not replacement...
Click to expand...

Do your own research but it appears that part number is 68004072AA.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
jorgelrod said:
I will, I just wanted to make sure because I had a D30 and the stupid local Mopar Store people only give you part numbers based on your Vin and I wasn't sure if it's the same seal for the rear
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For whatever reason, most vendors list that part # as working for either a Dana 30 or 44 axle. Maybe that part of both pinions was machined from Chrysler to be the same diameter at the sealing surface. You could always call a dealer to be safe.

Untitled.jpg
 
austin160

austin160

Member
JeepJeep75 said:
LOL!! I love all the variety of info here! I was in your exact same situation when I installed my Adams front 1350 drive line. It requires you take the factory pinion flange off the front axle and install a different one on. So, after sifting through all the different opinions, I called Adams and spoke to one of their techs. He told me yes, there IS a crush-sleeve and NO, there isn't a set torque number you can dial up and hit with your torque wrench. This is the "go-on-your-own" part. Since I wasn't using an impact wrench he told me to use my breaker bar and tighten the nut down "tight". WTF right? Well that's what I did and I did feel the nut tighten down and kind of stop. I applied a bit more pressure and then I felt the nut kind of "give" a little bit. That's right where I stopped. No problems since then and 15k miles later still no issues. There isn't a definitive answer on this. You can take all the readings you want, but short of completely stripping and replacing every part in the front end, this is another method. Good luck James![emoji106]


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Did the same on mine, expect called the guy that installed my gears. Torque for the pinion nut, if reusing one, is 200-220ft# with around 18in# run on. Not sure about the last part. I torqued mine up, no issues as of yet.
 
Andy5160

Andy5160

Hooked
Ok after installing my frond Adams 1350 seal started to leak. Went to the dealer and picked up new seal. Will do the install on Friday and let's see how it goes.
Will use all the advise given in this thread.
 
jorgelrod

jorgelrod

Hooked
WJCO said:
For whatever reason, most vendors list that part # as working for either a Dana 30 or 44 axle. Maybe that part of both pinions was machined from Chrysler to be the same diameter at the sealing surface. You could always call a dealer to be safe.
Click to expand...

Seal worked perfect for me...
 
Andy5160

Andy5160

Hooked
Took care of my seal earlier today so far so god. Few points on the install that i want to mention.
1. Do get the seal puller it does work and saves time.
2. Even dough there is factory sealant around the metal housing of the seal which you press into the axel housing i did add some RTV just a little bit to be sure.
3. I feel that my seal leaked because i used impact gun to install pinion nut so this time i used hand tools and would not recommend to use impact gun to reinstall the nut, remove yes.
4.Be careful while pressing new seal in, it has to go into the axel housing evenly on each side.

I think this is it to it, really easy job.
I posted some pictures in "What was done to your rig this week " thread.
 
Last edited:
Mybadjk

Mybadjk

Caught the Bug
Andy5160 said:
Took care of my seal earlier today so far so god. Few point on the install that i want to mention.
1. Do get the seal puller it does work and saves time.
2. Even dough there is factory sealant around the metal housing of the seal which you press into the axel housing i did add some RTV just a little bit to be sure.
3. I feel that my seal leaked because i used impact gun to install pinion nut so this time i used hand tools and would not recommend to use impact gun to reinstall the nut, remove yes.
4.Be careful while pressing new seal in, it has to go into the axel housing evenly on each side.

I think this is to it really easy job.
I posted some pictures in "What was done to your jeep this week " thread.
Click to expand...

Great points. The seal puller does make a world of a difference. As well as a yoke puller. Did my rear I had neither. Did my front it took 20 min.


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