Rock Krawler control arm joints

Benito

Benito

Caught the Bug
Ddays said:
JJ's won't fit RK arms - the JJ shanks are much larger. I replaced my old mid arms with a couple Currie LCA's last year (and since moved on to an EVO DD LA kit) and took this pic.
No comparison between the two IMHO

View attachment 301191
Click to expand...

Currie does make a 2.5” standard width JJ with 1” threads as well, I believe the ones used on their control arms are the larger 1.25” threads. They also have a narrow width 2.5” JJ that has a 7/8” thread. I don’t know what size thread the rock crawler arms use though.
 
Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
Benito said:
Currie does make a 2.5” standard width JJ with 1” threads as well, I believe the ones used on their control arms are the larger 1.25” threads. They also have a narrow width 2.5” JJ that has a 7/8” thread. I don’t know what size thread the rock crawler arms use though.
Click to expand...

Good catch - I forgot they made different sizes...

enfielded0405 said:
Dang next year I was thinking RK 2.5” flex with rancho 9ks. Going to keep an eye for threads like this. Hopefully just a bad batch.
Click to expand...

Having run both I would highly suggest a kit that uses the JJ's like Currie/Clayton/EVO, etc. The RK ends are a real bitch getting the lock nut tightened enough that the ends don't turn on you.
 
J

jeep670

New member
How tight needs the lock nut set? I have a set of LCAs and I wonder how to tighten them. Can't really use a torque wrench. So how to tighten them?
Please advise. Thanks.
 
Beer&Waffles

Beer&Waffles

Member
I've had my Max travel for almost two years now. The only issue I've had is the bushing for the front sway bar link is bad and pops out when Im close to full flex. Other then that its a great lift. Rides great and all my control arm bushing are fine. RK does suggest using their grease for the bushing though. Don't know if that might be a contributing factor.
 
Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
jeep670 said:
How tight needs the lock nut set? I have a set of LCAs and I wonder how to tighten them. Can't really use a torque wrench. So how to tighten them?
Please advise. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I used a 24" crescent wrench and had the arms in a vise. A member on here made a slick jig that held the arm instead of a vise. Might try searching for that thread. Torque value for the lock nut is in their instructions - I don't remember what it is.
 
2

2011jk

Member
Remember use anti-seize inside the control arms.

TORQUE VALUES FOR HARDWARE AND JAM NUTS
• All 14mm and 9/16” bolts are torqued to 90-100 ft-lbs.
• All 12mm and ½” bolts are torqued to 75-80 ft-lbs.
• All 10mm and 3/8 bolts are torqued to 30-35 ft-lbs.
• All #10-32 bolts are torqued to 25 to 30 inch pounds
• All 7/8” Jam Nuts are to be torqued 200-220 ft-lbs. Up to ½” of threads showing past the
jam nut is safe for final adjustment. These specifications are critical for the overall
longevity of the threaded section.
• All 1” Jam Nuts are to be torqued to 250-300 ft-lbs. GET YOUR BIG BOY PANTS ON!
Up to 5/8” of threads showing past the jam nut is safe for final adjustment. These
specifications are critical for the overall longevity of the threaded section.
 
Clearskies

Clearskies

Caught the Bug
I've got the 3.5 x factor as well, probably 15k miles and lots of hard trails (John Bull, Holcomb, Cougar Buttes, Dishpan, Calico) and very happy....so far
 
S

SullivanM08

Member
Yeah I started looking at the double D. Problem is this RK kits hasn't seen as much use as I'd have liked before upgrading. But like everyone else I want long arm so who knows might just be the time to do it. The pic comparison defently does Evo justice.

Sent from my SM-G950U using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
S

SullivanM08

Member
2011jk said:
Remember use anti-seize inside the control arms.

TORQUE VALUES FOR HARDWARE AND JAM NUTS
• All 14mm and 9/16” bolts are torqued to 90-100 ft-lbs.
• All 12mm and ½” bolts are torqued to 75-80 ft-lbs.
• All 10mm and 3/8 bolts are torqued to 30-35 ft-lbs.
• All #10-32 bolts are torqued to 25 to 30 inch pounds
• All 7/8” Jam Nuts are to be torqued 200-220 ft-lbs. Up to ½” of threads showing past the
jam nut is safe for final adjustment. These specifications are critical for the overall
longevity of the threaded section.
• All 1” Jam Nuts are to be torqued to 250-300 ft-lbs. GET YOUR BIG BOY PANTS ON!
Up to 5/8” of threads showing past the jam nut is safe for final adjustment. These
specifications are critical for the overall longevity of the threaded section.
Click to expand...
Yeah I read the instructions very complete multiple times and followed this to the t. Problem is the joints are coming apart overtime from small movements at their bolted locations. Mine separate on the highway every time then u get a slight axle shift and Traction control light kicks in and startles u for a second. Lucky I have control while driving and wasn't doing anything dumb at the time.

Sent from my SM-G950U using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
2

2011jk

Member
SullivanM08 said:
Yeah I started looking at the double D. Problem is this RK kits hasn't seen as much use as I'd have liked before upgrading. But like everyone else I want long arm so who knows might just be the time to do it. The pic comparison defently does Evo justice.

Sent from my SM-G950U using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

My Krawler Joints have 1.25" shanks and have more miss alignment ability than the Currie joints when installed into std axle-frame mounts unless you use the Currie narrow series joint, I've ran both without issues from either one.

So pick your poison both work.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom