3.6L Oil Filter/Cooler Adaptor Housing Replacement

jeeeep

Hooked
The Dorman part is over $300 now and still seems to be out of stock! Anyone find a better deal?
there are 2 different models, the one that's about $300 is the upgraded version with oil cooler, the other model you have to reuse the existing cooler.

Dorman is still available on amazon, o'reilly, autozone
 

MORedJeep

Member
I replaced my cooler about a month ago. I also was unable to find the Dorman, gambled and used Dorman part 926-876 as suggested above for $217. This is the housing, including all gaskets but without the replacement cooler. I had read that the actual cooler rarely fails as it is typically the gaskets or housing. I took the cooler off my old factory housing and replaced it on the Dorman part. So far it seems to have solved the leak.
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
I replaced my cooler about a month ago. I also was unable to find the Dorman, gambled and used Dorman part 926-876 as suggested above for $217. This is the housing, including all gaskets but without the replacement cooler. I had read that the actual cooler rarely fails as it is typically the gaskets or housing. I took the cooler off my old factory housing and replaced it on the Dorman part. So far it seems to have solved the leak.
This is true but for the time it takes to get to that area and the pain in the ass factor, it’s worth it in my opinion to buy the whole thing including the cooler.
 

MORedJeep

Member
This is true but for the time it takes to get to that area and the pain in the ass factor, it’s worth it in my opinion to buy the whole thing including the cooler.
Definitely agree if you can find the part. My Jeep is my daily driver and i couldn’t wait. It was either the Dorman part without the cooler or my 2nd OEM part. I had the dealer do the first one 4 years ago.
 

Sinlessearth

New member
So I'm in the process of doing this for the 3rd time. I got a mopar one this time. When removing the old one it seemed some of the bolts were much easier to brake free than the others. Has anyone used a medium thredlocker when installing these? I just found it odd.
 
So I'm in the process of doing this for the 3rd time. I got a mopar one this time. When removing the old one it seemed some of the bolts were much easier to brake free than the others. Has anyone used a medium thredlocker when installing these? I just found it odd.

I did not used Threadlocker, and have had no issues in ~5K miles. Are you thinking the bolts backing out are causing it to leak again? Seems unlikely if you follow the torque values in this thread.

Have you considered a cast aluminum housing? Are you using new gaskets every time?
 

Sinlessearth

New member
Both times have lasted 10K miles. Each time the seals are no longer soft. They are hard and no good. The first one I didn't really experience one bolt not being as tight as the others. Maybe it just lost is tightness due to the crap seals. All I know is the original lasted 100K and hopfully since I went Mopar this time this will be the last time. I have checked my torque wrench a few different ways and it seems pretty much spot on.

I don't have an issue with the housing cracking or anything like that so not gonna go the dorman route. I have used a brand new housing everytime but it was an Amazon one with a "lifetime" warranty. They exchanged the first one but figured I'd go dealer this time.
 
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I don't have an issue with the housing cracking

It’s my understanding that the plastic housing can warp and therefore the mating surfaces no longer sit flat, and that’s where leaking occurs.

I hope the mopar one works out for you, though. I’m sure someone on here has used it and may chime in as to how long it lasts.
 

shooternow

New member
Hey guys, I'll be doing this job sometime in the next couple of weeks and have everything I need. Just a question about draining the coolant. I bought a gallon of new premixed coolant. Once I drain the rad, will that gallon be enough to replace the old stuff with? If not, there's no problem with reusing the drained coolant if I have to is there? Thanks
 

JeepFan

Hooked
Hey guys, I'll be doing this job sometime in the next couple of weeks and have everything I need. Just a question about draining the coolant. I bought a gallon of new premixed coolant. Once I drain the rad, will that gallon be enough to replace the old stuff with? If not, there's no problem with reusing the drained coolant if I have to is there? Thanks
You will need a little more than a gallon to refill the cooling system. Reusing old coolant is not a good idea.
 

kevman65

Hooked
Hey guys, I'll be doing this job sometime in the next couple of weeks and have everything I need. Just a question about draining the coolant. I bought a gallon of new premixed coolant. Once I drain the rad, will that gallon be enough to replace the old stuff with? If not, there's no problem with reusing the drained coolant if I have to is there? Thanks
Use the opportunity to drain and flush the system. Put all new coolant in.
 

shooternow

New member
Use the opportunity to drain and flush the system. Put all new coolant in.
I don't have the equipment to do a proper drain, flush and fill. From what i've read, the best time to fully replace the coolant is when a pump fails because you'll be draining the system during that time again anyway. It might be best practise to do a full flush and refill the whole system but there's no way that everyone in this forum did it that way.
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
I don't have the equipment to do a proper drain, flush and fill. From what i've read, the best time to fully replace the coolant is when a pump fails because you'll be draining the system during that time again anyway. It might be best practise to do a full flush and refill the whole system but there's no way that everyone in this forum did it that way.
Well why come asking for advice? I did a drain and refill when I did mine and it was over a gallon.
 
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