regrets?

SLO said:

Since this thread got resurrected, I’ll chime in. Easy answer is the 50” light bar. I can always take it off but I did some minor modifications to the A-pillar to run the wiring that would have to be repaired.

I still question whether it was worth all the money and time to go to 40’s on my JK. Bought tires which led to new fenders because I was rubbing the ones I had on, then had to buy a new tire carrier which meant l had to move my license plate which opened a can of worms. Then, figured I better go Dana 60’s which also meant new drive shafts and new wheels (may as well spend a little extra for beadlocks). Then, with the Jeep weighing over 6000 lbs and hating the way it drove up steep grades and mountain passes, it led to a LS and while I was at it, hydro-assist.

After all that, I get my wife a JL and in a day and a half, put on a 2.5” lift and 37’s and it’s pretty much done. All I gained in ground clearance between my JK in 40’s and the JL on 37’s is about 1.5”.

Click to expand...

SLO said:

Since this thread got resurrected, I’ll chime in. Easy answer is the 50” light bar. I can always take it off but I did some minor modifications to the A-pillar to run the wiring that would have to be repaired.

I still question whether it was worth all the money and time to go to 40’s on my JK. Bought tires which led to new fenders because I was rubbing the ones I had on, then had to buy a new tire carrier which meant l had to move my license plate which opened a can of worms. Then, figured I better go Dana 60’s which also meant new drive shafts and new wheels (may as well spend a little extra for beadlocks). Then, with the Jeep weighing over 6000 lbs and hating the way it drove up steep grades and mountain passes, it led to a LS and while I was at it, hydro-assist.

After all that, I get my wife a JL and in a day and a half, put on a 2.5” lift and 37’s and it’s pretty much done. All I gained in ground clearance between my JK in 40’s and the JL on 37’s is about 1.5”.

Click to expand...

cozdude said:

I ran into the same issue with rock krawler arms years ago. At the shortest length they contacted the trackbar. Their “mid arm” is a scam and causes more issues than not. Sorry you had to learn the hard way about these arms

Click to expand...

A.J. said:

That's a hell of a build man! Oh and the JL is cool too. Just go wheel that thing! You'll see it's worth pretty quickly.


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app

Click to expand...

JJ151 said:

Still sounds like a nice JK build. I’m just up the road from you so to speak in Happy Valley and would like to get together sometime. PM me if your interested.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Click to expand...

USMC Wrangler said:

Standby for a long one...

So I officially have one and they are called Ruffstuff rear control arms. Now I know why the rear uppers I picked up from CL were only $100, “like new, in the box”. That’s $180 cheaper than buying them new and I should’ve known better right then!

They are 18.5” at their shortest and it caused a couple problems. First the pinion angle was way off.

View attachment 329092

I literally could not bolt up the trackbar because the springs were pushed back so far! So I ordered the RS lowers in hopes that would solve the issue. While waiting for those I put the factory arms back on. Anyone that has changed the rear uppers knows how much of a PITA the flag nut is at the frame to line up.

Lowers showed up. So again I pulled the factory uppers (PITA!) and installed all four RS arms. Uppers are set at their shortest and then adjusted the lowers to set pinion angle.

View attachment 329094

View attachment 329093

All is well now, right? Nope. Now my springs are really bowed and contacting the trackbar near the frame mount, while sitting still. It makes a wonderful clunking noise simply driving on the road. [emoji849]

View attachment 329095

View attachment 329096

I call Ruffstuff since they are their arms. The gentleman I spoke with tells me that the guys making those arms “really know what they are doing”. Then I’m asked, “Didn’t your lift come with correction wedges?” I explain I pieced the lift together myself and it’s not really a kit. I’m told the “only” two options are to live with it or get the wedges. Sadly I believe him and in my haste to get wedges ordered before close of business last Friday, I did no research. Now I see many of you who actually know what you’re talking about say the wedges don’t really help. Fuck!

Since the wedges arrived today and only cost $25, I’m going to try them out. (Very likely another regret.) I’ve considered putting the factory arms back on, cutting my losses and dropping the RS arms on CL. RS won’t accept my lower arms back because I painted them. (They come raw, for those that don’t know.) Yes, test fit before paint, unlike me. It doesn’t matter in the case of the uppers since they are 2nd hand.

I’ve also considered cutting 1” out of the DOM upper arms and welding them back together, but am concerned with the integrity of them or if I’ll constantly be worried about that. Then I wonder if I cut/shorten the uppers, will I have to do the same to the lowers? My wild guess is, yes.

What I’ve learned and heard so many times here? It’s expensive to be cheap. Listen to the folks here BEFORE you dive in and do something like I have. Research is your friend and the experience of many here is invaluable. I definitely regret this whole situation.

PS-I fucked up and bought cheap shit.

Click to expand...

SLO said:

Let’s do it. There are a group of us trying to plan a day to TSF soon. I’ll shoot you a PM.

Click to expand...

OverlanderJK said:

Since the arm was cheap you could basically sleeve it and weld if you want. Or get all new arms.


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app

Click to expand...