14” coilover

white jk

New member
I have Evo long arm high clarance and evo coilover kit.
Does anyone know if I can upgrade me rig to 14” ? And what is the best way to do that with keeping max of 4.5” lift?
Towers?
I am running 37” tire on my 2013 jku.
Dana 60 rear normal width.
And Dana 44 in the front - normal width
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I have Evo long arm high clarance and evo coilover kit.
Does anyone know if I can upgrade me rig to 14” ? And what is the best way to do that with keeping max of 4.5” lift?
Towers?
I am running 37” tire on my 2013 jku.
Dana 60 rear normal width.
And Dana 44 in the front - normal width

You do NOT want 14" coilovers. Installing a set would just be a waste of money being that you would need to run limiting straps. Without the straps, your driveshafts would bind. Trust me, I've run this exact setup in the past.
 

TheGrendel

Active Member
You do NOT want 14" coilovers. Installing a set would just be a waste of money being that you would need to run limiting straps. Without the straps, your driveshafts would bind. Trust me, I've run this exact setup in the past.

Can’t you run a limiting strap off the pumpkin just for the driveshaft and still get additional travel at the wheels?
 

Exodus 4x4

New member
You do NOT want 14" coilovers. Installing a set would just be a waste of money being that you would need to run limiting straps. Without the straps, your driveshafts would bind. Trust me, I've run this exact setup in the past.

Lol, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had this conversation with guys, especially running 40’s. Guy has a DTD setup and thinks he’s going to gain something by cutting it all off and going with something different that uses 14” CO’s. I’m like, “Aren’t you stuffing the tires already? What do you think the limiting straps on the cantilever are for?” I actually had to send my front drive shaft back to Reel for some clearancing because it would bind at full droop. Pretty sure adding a couple of more inches would only make that worse.

I do know a guy local to me running 14” coil overs and he has to sit sky high, even with hardly any pre-load. It looks janky and when they do take it off-road it looks and feels sketchy because the cog is all fucked up.


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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Lol, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had this conversation with guys, especially running 40’s. Guy has a DTD setup and thinks he’s going to gain something by cutting it all off and going with something different that uses 14” CO’s. I’m like, “Aren’t you stuffing the tires already? What do you think the limiting straps on the cantilever are for?” I actually had to send my front drive shaft back to Reel for some clearancing because it would bind at full droop. Pretty sure adding a couple of more inches would only make that worse.

I do know a guy local to me running 14” coil overs and he has to sit sky high, even with hardly any pre-load. It looks janky and when they do take it off-road it looks and feels sketchy because the cog is all fucked up.

:cheesy: Oh yeah, it's hard to explain this to people when their dead set in their belief that a longer coilover has to be better. It's good to have a shop like yours on here to help provide GOOD advice and information and based on real EXPERIENCE. :thumb:
 

Angry Aussie

New member
:cheesy: Oh yeah, it's hard to explain this to people when their dead set in their belief that a longer coilover has to be better. It's good to have a shop like yours on here to help provide GOOD advice and information and based on real EXPERIENCE. :thumb:

And he is an awesome dude as well! Had the pleasure of wheeling with him and it was a blast. Such a cool guy.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
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