I am getting ready to do this same swap into my WJ and I have re-read your write up about 6 times.
When you say you'd have extra caster built in are you referring to the coil bracket angle because to change caster the C's would have to be re-welded on at a different angle. The Clayton kit calls for bracket angle of 6.50*. How much extra do you think it needs?
Also, when it comes to the drag link, I was going to use the same DL and bolt it up to the factor pitman arm. Were you suggesting that the factory pitman needed to be reamed for the new DL? What a bout a new insert instead?
Anything else you'd suggest that you'd do differently?
Thank you,
Chad.
Welcome to Wayalife. As far as the extra caster, it is indeed the Cs welded in a new location (not the coil brackets). Not sure what housing you're using, but if you're going with a Dynatrac ProRock 44, you can request that they add the additional caster when they build the housing. If you are going with a stock JK housing, it would be a ton of work to re-weld the Cs and I wouldn't recommend it. In the drawing below from Dynatrac, it is better explained of how this works. As far as the Clayton bracket kit, just do whatever their instructions say, that is what Dynatrac did for mine. I went with the standard housing because I didn't know where I would end up, and I knew of two other builds that used an OEM JK housing with no issues. However, now that it's done, I wished I would have had Dynatrac build in the extra caster because it would have helped the pinion angle.
As far as the drag link, I explained it in a prior post but see picture below. I literally had a machine shop cut off the upper end of a Synergy drag link and drill and re-thread it to accept a factory WJ upper end link. So at any point that the joint end fails, I can go to any auto parts store and get a WJ replacement. However, I did have to get a jam nut from JKS to keep that link end secure to the Synergy bar. Now the lower end of the drag link I would have to get from Synergy if it wears out. My steering box, pitman arm, and upper link are 100% factory WJ with no reaming needed. I wish I had made the drag link about 1/4" shorter, It's bottomed out and my steering wheel is slightly crooked. Glad it's not a daily driver or it would bug the shit out of me.
Hope that helps.