2007-2011 Jeep Wrangler JK EGR Replacement

Vilmars

New member
Looking to change out my egr next weekend. I received my new egr but it didn’t come with new hardware. I’ve spent a few hours looking for the bolt part numbers and found this 6508489AA. I can’t find the part #’s for the 10mm bolts. Would anyone know what they are or the fastener specs?


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JDDK

Member
just did this change this morning in less than 90 minutes. God bless the saint who did this write up. buy the ratcheting 3 inch mini wrench set from Harbor Freight. it worked perfectly and actually easily. pull the tire and the rear half of the fender liner and an 8 to 10 inch seat is very key. also lossen the little 10mm bolt that holds the dipstick tube. while youre at it, change your sparkplugs. both jobs in less than 2hrs. total. I have been reading and dreading this for 6 months but the forum saved my sanity.
 

JDDK

Member
ok, trying not to lose it...CEL lit up today. engine drops rpm at idle for a second every ten seconds. did I get a bad EGR out of the box? replaced just 3 days ago!
going to check codes. last time it was the 406...
 

JDDK

Member
p0306 cylinder 6 misfire.
just replaced plugs and egr. runs great except at idle. Help please?
 

WJCO

Meme King
p0306 cylinder 6 misfire.
just replaced plugs and egr. runs great except at idle. Help please?

If you removed the plug wire when you did the egr repair, double check that you got it back on tight. Also make sure it is routed correctly and didn't get burned through on the exhaust nor is it arcing against another wire. Sometimes if you overlap plug wires, they can arc to the one next to it.
 

JDDK

Member
checked wires. good. checked obd again. threw a cat converter code now instead of cyl6missfire. wth? befuddled...cleared codes. driving and waiting for cel again.
 

WJCO

Meme King
checked wires. good. checked obd again. threw a cat converter code now instead of cyl6missfire. wth? befuddled...cleared codes. driving and waiting for cel again.

Not uncommon to have a cat code with a misfire because of excessive unburned fuel going into the cat. Swap the #6 wire with one right next to it (switch both ends of each wire). When engine light comes back on, if misfire moves to that other cylinder, then the wire is bad. If not, something else is.
 

Whiskeyjack

Member
Just finished my EGR valve install. God damn, that was a pain in the ass. The bolts were so seized I almost stripped the head off one. I ended up using the handle of my hilift in order to get more torque, and that definitely helped. I didn't find this write-up until I was trying to unplug the connector...the locking tab was an annoyance I didn't anticipate, so reading that it was a sliding tab was very helpful.

For those who attempt this job in the future...pull the tire and the fender liner. I didn't, and it caused more trouble than it was worth.
 

JDDK

Member
OK, CEL came back on after replacing egr a few months back. kept clearing it and it was persistent. After repeated hope that oreillys just sold me a bad unit, i bought another one to swap out. Me and that bolt are getting to know each other intimately. oreillys gave me full credit for a return on the old and so far so good. This time I had it out and in around 30 minutes. removed that vent tube and cleaned all the crud out of it too.
 

sm31

Active Member
Yesterday I had the "dubious" honor of joining the brotherhood of the EGR (2011 JKUR auto)... :rolleyes2:

One tip I would add, pertaining to that super hard to reach bolt on the back of the valve:

For awhile I was fighting with various wrenches, etc. to try and get a good bite on that bolt, all the while being scared to death that I was going to round it off (as many have). I decided a socket would be the only reliable solution but the dipstick tube was too close even after some "coaxing" with a pry bar. Then I noted that the tube is attached to a bracket directly behind the valve. Rather than risk damage to the tube, I was pretty easily able to get a good sized pry bar on that bracket and move the whole thing almost to the firewall. At this point I was easily able to get a flex-head wrench and socket on that back bolt and safely remove it.

edit: I did use a sizable cheater on the socket wrench.

Not that it didn't suck but it certainly sucked less. Good luck! :cool:
 

sm31

Active Member
Well that lasted 3 months. Pretty pissed that I get to become a real "expert" at this apparently. Any recommendations on actual quality parts? Tempted to put this one through the window at O'reilly.
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
I replaced with an oreilly egr valve. CEL went off for a while, came back on, went off and has stayed off.

Take a long drive or two and see if it goes off.


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sm31

Active Member
I replaced with an oreilly egr valve. CEL went off for a while, came back on, went off and has stayed off.

Take a long drive or two and see if it goes off.


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Thank you sir... before I add to the permanent scars on my knuckles I'll give that a try. I've reset the code a couple of times but I didn't take a long drive immediately after. First time stayed off for about a week & the 2nd came on immediately again. I'll try to reset when the engine is up to temp, then go drive up a mountain pass.
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
Thank you sir... before I add to the permanent scars on my knuckles I'll give that a try. I've reset the code a couple of times but I didn't take a long drive immediately after. First time stayed off for about a week & the 2nd came on immediately again. I'll try to reset when the engine is up to temp, then go drive up a mountain pass.

Yeah see how it goes. I was pretty mad when my CEL light and EGR code came back after the replacement. But like i said, it went away and has stayed fixed for the last 6-8 months. So who knows. Good luck.


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