My Mall Crawler Build

wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
JK_Dave said:
Started developing some annoying rattles coming out of the rear end somewhere. I haven't found anything loose yet, but I haven't given it a thorough inspection either. Decided to get some angled spacers for the rear coils to take out the bind and see if that helps. It could be a busted joint too, but maybe installing the spacers will help me track down the source.

For anyone keeping up, I've had the Metalcloak arms installed for about 2.5 years with no maintenance on them. I wouldn't be surprised if a joint or 2 has gone by now, but need to find some time to really dig into it. Maybe I'll get lucky and it will be a loose shock bolt or something.

:idontknow:

I still need to finish up the rock lights, swap in the No Limits, install some new front speakers and install the new air actuator for the front locker. So many project, so little time. :gaah:
Click to expand...

Is the rattle a higher pitch sound or more like a thumping?
 
JK_Dave

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
wayoflife said:
Is the rattle a higher pitch sound or more like a thumping?
Click to expand...

It sounds like metal on metal contact and makes a knocking sound. On smooth pavement, you won't hear it, but over road bumps you'll hear some knocks in time with the suspension movement. That's why I'm thinking either the shocks could have loosened at the top or maybe 1-2 bushings are going out and the arm is hitting the mount side-to-side.

This is definitely separate from the metal squealing that the rear springs are making on the perch. (I've got that too, just infrequently)
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
JK_Dave said:
It sounds like metal on metal contact and makes a knocking sound. On smooth pavement, you won't hear it, but over road bumps you'll hear some knocks in time with the suspension movement. That's why I'm thinking either the shocks could have loosened at the top or maybe 1-2 bushings are going out and the arm is hitting the mount side-to-side.

This is definitely separate from the metal squealing that the rear springs are making on the perch. (I've got that too, just infrequently)
Click to expand...

Okay, that helps a lot. Take a look at your transfer case skid plate and see if maybe it's bent up enough to make contact with the transfer case itself. If it's close, bumps in the road could cause the two to make contact being that the transmission mount is rubber. Also, check to see if any part of your exhaust may have come loose from one of the hangers as this can allow for enough movement to make it make contact with the EVAP skid, frame rails, bottom of your tub and the like.
 
JK_Dave

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
wayoflife said:
Okay, that helps a lot. Take a look at your transfer case skid plate and see if maybe it's bent up enough to make contact with the transfer case itself. If it's close, bumps in the road could cause the two to make contact being that the transmission mount is rubber. Also, check to see if any part of your exhaust may have come loose from one of the hangers as this can allow for enough movement to make it make contact with the EVAP skid, frame rails, bottom of your tub and the like.
Click to expand...

Great suggestions I hadn't thought of. Thanks!
 
critter812

critter812

New member
JK_Dave said:
Started developing some annoying rattles coming out of the rear end somewhere. I haven't found anything loose yet, but I haven't given it a thorough inspection either. Decided to get some angled spacers for the rear coils to take out the bind and see if that helps. It could be a busted joint too, but maybe installing the spacers will help me track down the source.

For anyone keeping up, I've had the Metalcloak arms installed for about 2.5 years with no maintenance on them. I wouldn't be surprised if a joint or 2 has gone by now, but need to find some time to really dig into it. Maybe I'll get lucky and it will be a loose shock bolt or something.

:idontknow:

I still need to finish up the rock lights, swap in the No Limits, install some new front speakers and install the new air actuator for the front locker. So many project, so little time. :gaah:
Click to expand...

Wrenching party at Dave's House! :rock:

Seriously if you want some help let me know I can come over and help you out!
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
JK_Dave said:
In the name of procrastination, knocked out a couple easy projects yesterday. Still need to track down these annoying rattles.
Click to expand...

Great idea on the gauge. So as air is flowing, does it show you the pressure, or when you release the chuck button (similar to ARBs handheld one) ?
 
JK_Dave

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
WJCO said:
Great idea on the gauge. So as air is flowing, does it show you the pressure, or when you release the chuck button (similar to ARBs handheld one) ?
Click to expand...

I have yet to test it, but once you hook the air lines up to wheels, you slide that blue collar to the left and all the tires will begin to deflate. To read the PSI, you do need to momentarily slide the collar back to the right.

For airing up though, the gauge should display the real-time PSI of the tires. You can calibrate what PSI ceiling you want to set with the brass fitting on the end. That way, if I want all my tires aired up to 28psi, I connect the hoses, flip on the compressor and wait until I hear air purging from the brass valve. Then my tires are done!

If you have TPMS and are using the sensors in your tires, you don't need the gauge part of the assembly. But since I didn't reuse my sensors, I thought it would be nice to have it.
 
critter812

critter812

New member
JK_Dave said:
I have yet to test it, but once you hook the air lines up to wheels, you slide that blue collar to the left and all the tires will begin to deflate. To read the PSI, you do need to momentarily slide the collar back to the right.

For airing up though, the gauge should display the real-time PSI of the tires. You can calibrate what PSI ceiling you want to set with the brass fitting on the end. That way, if I want all my tires aired up to 28psi, I connect the hoses, flip on the compressor and wait until I hear air purging from the brass valve. Then my tires are done!

If you have TPMS and are using the sensors in your tires, you don't need the gauge part of the assembly. But since I didn't reuse my sensors, I thought it would be nice to have it.
Click to expand...

What system is that?
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
JK_Dave said:
I have yet to test it, but once you hook the air lines up to wheels, you slide that blue collar to the left and all the tires will begin to deflate. To read the PSI, you do need to momentarily slide the collar back to the right.

For airing up though, the gauge should display the real-time PSI of the tires. You can calibrate what PSI ceiling you want to set with the brass fitting on the end. That way, if I want all my tires aired up to 28psi, I connect the hoses, flip on the compressor and wait until I hear air purging from the brass valve. Then my tires are done!

If you have TPMS and are using the sensors in your tires, you don't need the gauge part of the assembly. But since I didn't reuse my sensors, I thought it would be nice to have it.
Click to expand...

That's cool. Hope it works out.
 
JK_Dave

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
Got some decent audio upgrades in progress. Nothing will remain stock... :brows:

Also, changing out the crappy distribution block that the rock lights came with for a Blue Sea unit. Much more secure and sturdy. Plus I went with a 12 bank unit in case I upgrade with additional lighting down the road.

Figured out the rattling issue was coming from the tailgate. I had to adjust the tensioner up a bit to put more pressure on the gate and that seemed to take care of the rattling.
 
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