New Rig - Silver Bullet - DTD, 60/80, 40’s....

Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
I wonder for all the comments of the 3.6's running hot, has anyone ever actually overheated one? The highest I've ever had mine go is 3/4 on the gauge going thru the passes in Colorado, like WJCO said. But even then, it never went over that mark. Even wheeling in Moab in 105* heat didn't push it past the 3/4 line. I quit worrying about it. They run hot.
 
Abntroop

Abntroop

Member
Ddays said:
I wonder for all the comments of the 3.6's running hot, has anyone ever actually overheated one? The highest I've ever had mine go is 3/4 on the gauge going thru the passes in Colorado, like WJCO said. But even then, it never went over that mark. Even wheeling in Moab in 105* heat didn't push it past the 3/4 line. I quit worrying about it. They run hot.
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My needle regularly blips over the halfway mark, I’ve got an OBD accessory gauge screen to keep an eye on temps and seems like it is usually between 210-215 , spikes to 219-220 on freeway hills


Typed on my iPhone with my Jimmy Dean sausage fingers
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
danford.lau said:
Damn okay AC off it is . When temp gauge goes above middle it’s time to let off gas I assume ? When is too hot?


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Not really. I can get mine to 3/4 and it won’t kill it. Usually when it’s halfway to 3/4 I’ll turn the ac off and/or the heat on. I don’t usually let off the gas. Heat on cools it down in about 15 seconds.


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OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Ddays said:
I wonder for all the comments of the 3.6's running hot, has anyone ever actually overheated one? The highest I've ever had mine go is 3/4 on the gauge going thru the passes in Colorado, like WJCO said. But even then, it never went over that mark. Even wheeling in Moab in 105* heat didn't push it past the 3/4 line. I quit worrying about it. They run hot.
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It won’t let you overhear one really. It will go into recovery mode and you can’t go above 3000 rpm or 60mph. I’ve had that happen. Throws a code. You can reset it and then it’s fine.


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notnalc68

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
piginajeep said:
Fuck that, I’d rather blow the motor than turn the AC off.

I have noticed mine started running hotter after the regear even with small 35’s.


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No shit. My A/C is always on, this time of year. I never went into limp mode, towing that trailer. That was even in Yuma, and down below the Salton Sea. It was well into the triple digits.


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OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Everyone I know with similar setups has issues. My two door has never once moved above half. The stock four door doesn’t either. Even holding 80 up a grade in 118* with ac blasting it never moved.


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Irish JK

Irish JK

Caught the Bug
OverlanderJK said:
That’s the big one. Nobody wants to admit there’s issues after spending $25k or deal with issues after spending that much. In today’s society though, hard to blame them.


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As much as no one wants to talk about them, I think like me it sours people and you just end up not using it, so there’s nothing to talk about. The vendors take your money, claim they’re gear to support you and will do whatever to get it running right, but that means little usually. Especially if you don’t live in the same town and actually want to use your Jeep for anything other than lightly built Jeep to run around town to the mall.


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RESURECTIONJK

RESURECTIONJK

Hooked
Adam, serious question. Going from your 2 door with coil and shock making the jump all the way to the DTD and coilovers, is that something you’d do again now knowing what they are like or would you do it in stages and start with bolt on coilovers and build up from there? I ask because over the next year or so I’ve got some decisions to make with mine. Long arms are certain but I’m still torn on weather to stick with coil and shock or go all in with coilovers.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
RESURECTIONJK said:
Adam, serious question. Going from your 2 door with coil and shock making the jump all the way to the DTD and coilovers, is that something you’d do again now knowing what they are like or would you do it in stages and start with bolt on coilovers and build up from there? I ask because over the next year or so I’ve got some decisions to make with mine. Long arms are certain but I’m still torn on weather to stick with coil and shock or go all in with coilovers.
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If money is no object I would never run coils and shocks again. Doing it in stages is kind of a waste of money if you know your end goal.


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jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
OverlanderJK said:
If money is no object I would never run coils and shocks again. Doing it in stages is kind of a waste of money if you know your end goal.


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Yeah no need to do it in stages if you know you're end goal. That's why I went long arms right off the bat. Didn't want to spend money twice when I know I'd want them in the future. Only reason I have kings was I got them used for about what I would have paid for new Rancho's. Plus a bunch if other stuff. If you know you are going to go DTD I'd save and wouldn't go with Bolt on CO's first.

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RESURECTIONJK

RESURECTIONJK

Hooked
New Rig - DTD, 60/80, 40’s....

jesse3638 said:
Yeah no need to do it in stages if you know you're end goal. That's why I went long arms right off the bat. Didn't want to spend money twice when I know I'd want them in the future. Only reason I have kings was I got them used for about what I would have paid for new Rancho's. Plus a bunch if other stuff. If you know you are going to go DTD I'd save and wouldn't go with Bolt on CO's first.

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Appreciate that Jesse. I refuse to spend money on all 8 short arms while I know my end goal is high clearance long arms. I run longer lower fronts and that’s it. Coilovers is ultimately my end goal as is a V8 at some point so having a DTD system I think is ultimately what I want.
Didn’t mean to hijack the thread guys. Thanks for the feedback.
 
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