I got a chance to take a ride in a 4BT powered JKU. It had impressive torque, like throw you back into the seat torque, but, as others stated, it shook you to death. The owner did say he was...
Type: Posts; User: jedg
I got a chance to take a ride in a 4BT powered JKU. It had impressive torque, like throw you back into the seat torque, but, as others stated, it shook you to death. The owner did say he was...
Welcome from Fayetteville
Yep... same here, it's not difficult, just time consuming.
Thanks! My wife helped (a bunch, this is her jeep). The prep work is what took the longest, probably 4 hours to remove everything from the tub. Another 8 hours of sanding and cleaning. The...
This is our 95 YJ... we used Monstaliner and it turned out great. Did it 3 years ago and still looks like new. No chips or such. Prep work is key.
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For a drag link, stick with the OEM one. Nothing wrong with it.
For a tie rod, I've been running the aluminum RK tie rod. I don't recommend this thing. You have aluminum mixing with steel which...
yup... the bonus is that JB weld is sand-able and paintable! :D
eh... you're sure the body is back to normal shape... I'm doubtful... of course several have suggested you post photos... a photo isn't worth a thousand words but it's worth more than the...
Okay... :idontknow:
Yeah... I'm betting your body is tweaked.
Ruined as in your jeep has been in a wreck?
ORE's website still has them at $395 a piece and buy 4 get the 5th one free with shipping at $250. So WITH shipping it's $1850... now, if a fellow could swing local pick up, then it's a good deal.
hahaha.. gotcha, yes, that is the only time I don't use the axle tubes.
What maintenance are you doing? If it doesn't require the suspension to sag, I put the jack stands under the tubes of the axles.
I was running RK arms and didn't like the heim joint they use. Even with regular maintenance (lubrication) they were noisy. I'm on Currie control arms now with johnny joints at both ends. I still...
So pretty good read. The 213 percent stronger figure for a PR44 over the stock D44... wow!!! My take away is go PR44 if you run 35s (even though they say this depends on how you'll use it)...
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WoW! That is completely awesome! My wife would go nuts if you pulled up next to us in that thing. She's totally in love with the originals like that.
Sweet ride! ... and hello from Fayetteville!
It's from a bit ago, but still applies... it's the advice that I used to decide on axle shafts.
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?3345-Front-Axle-Shafts-C-Clips-vs-Full-Circle-Clips
Yep...exactly. I think it's super cool to see someone that's built their own axles like that, but it's not a novice job for sure.
Here's a taste of it... Grubbicon's build thread.
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?24912-Coming-up-to-Speed-With-Grubbicon/page54
Yeah, forgot about that.
If you are stuck on doing this, you're better to find a 2005 or newer D60. And a 14bolt with the ribs on the diff... can't remember what year range for that... go to...
Well, I just took a look at the spreadsheet (yeah... I keep a spreadsheet with build info and such for my jeep). So doing the 14bolt may be a bit cheaper as with a 10.5 and keeping the OEM rear...
Yeah... you won't come in under 5K. You're better off getting a PR44 or if you want to go with D60s then look at Dynatrac if you want completely bullet proof... if you want something at a lower...
Don't spend any money on the 44 except C gussets.