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Yeah I’ve had that issue with other wheels too. When I bought these way back in 2017 they were a blemish sale as they didn’t have any clear coat. I got soooo tired of trying to keep them clean I bead blasted them and then rattle canned them. I used the VHT Roll bar and chassis paint in satin...

I too have started a beadlock mounting project. Or rather, a new tire mounting project and since my ATX Chamber pros have really taken a beating, I’ve decided to clean them up and give them a fresh coat of paint. Oh and new shoes of course.

This for sure ^^^. For me it’s a packaging issue. The front ford SD60 I’m building for mine makes it almost impossible to run a driver side long arm because the differential is so far over. I could do it if I ran a lot of bump stop to keep it from hitting things but then I’m really limiting...

Dude some epic shots. Glad you’re getting out again. We need to connect. My Jeep is just about road worthy again.

I’m doing the DT rear, been running the MB rear tank for a bit now in prep for that system.

That’s great to hear. Definitely will be hitting you guys up once I’m in a position for the jeep to be down for a while. The front 3 link I could handle, the rear… that’s a bit above my pay grade.

Stoked to see how you like their stuff. I just ordered their 3 link front/4 link rear for my JK.

It was really fucking bad in Utah. It hasn’t been as bad here in SoCal but I still see dashboards covered in them. The fact that you can actually buy legit mounts to shove up rubber ducks asses tells me that someone had figured out how to capitalize on the worst Jeep trend since angry grills...

Happy birthday sir!

Yeah synergy has their shit together.

Man so true. The best years are 05-11 if you want to stick with the SD/sterling combo. And yeah… locating them is by far the easiest and cheapest part 🤣🤣🤣.

Yeah. There are a few routes you can go and as mentioned in the video, you can either stick with the 8x170 ford pattern or, in my case have new hubs machined for 8x6.5. But either way… you’re joining the 8 lug life.

I found mine on Facebook marketplace for $1200 for the pair. LKQ usually has a bunch of them on hand for around the $1500-$2000 mark. What really adds up are the lockers and gears etc. but once that’s handled, it’s really just a matter of bolting them in and dealing with the setup. That being...

Ah yeah. I guess I should have clarified. The belt driven pump that replaces the electric pump completely.

Yeah that’s really the only potential issue I could see but, the front SD60 diff is so huge and those mounts are far enough outboard that if you’re running a big enough tire (40-42) then they might not be too bad. That being said, cutting those fucking brackets off is hands down the worst part...

All of this👆

As someone who is still working through a SD60/Sterling swap I can say this kit is gonna be a game changer for a lot of people. I’ve spent nearly $1000 alone just in tools and consumables cutting off all the casting and brackets and shit from the from SD60, not to mention the hours upon hours...

I don’t have any personal experience with ANY of the JL systems but have wheeled with enough to see than when they fail, it’s a major drama. That being said regardless of which motor it’s attached to, if you’re serious about wheeling and you’re going to be on anything bigger than a 35 and...

So awesome. Looking forward to following. It’s been a few years since I’ve been able to attend so I’ve had to live vicariously through you guys 🤣

I can see the benefit in a rebuildable set that you only have to press the main housing in once. After a few ball joint changes you might have to go to a knurled set and then, you only get a couple more changes out of that before potentially degrading the axle C’s enough that they just won’t...