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Thread: Does it make sense to buy a rubicon?

  1. #1
    Been Around the Block Chairokey's Avatar
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    Does it make sense to buy a rubicon?

    If someone wanted to leave their Jeep stock, sure a Rubicon would be a great choice. But if you plan to build your Jeep, could you not make a sport better than a Rubicon with less money than the difference in base price? Is $6,000 really worth the upgraded Rock-Trac transfer case and Tru-Lock differentials? I'm really not positive what the difference is between the regular transfer case and differentials and the Rubicons upgraded parts.. Also I didn't add the wheels and tires as a deciding factor because most are likely to upgrade those anyway..

  2. #2
    Nothing but a Thing Prime8's Avatar
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    Going through the same inner struggle, but decided to upgrade to a '13 Rubicon in October from my 2010 Mountain Edition (a Sport with a trim package...) for the following reasons:
    1. Front D44
    2. 4:1 T Case
    3. Locking differentials
    However, these alone weren't necessarily enough for me to justify the upgrade. For me, the biggest thing was getting the new engine/tranny.
    I'd love to have an Atlas T-case, a front PR44, and ARB airlockers front and rear, but I currently don't really wheel enough to justify those beefy upgrades. Illinois isn't exactly a wheeling mecca. If I'm able to move west again, I will seriously be considering those upgrades, but for now the Rubicons components will be sufficient.
    Epic Addictions!

    New Rig:
    2013 JKU Rubicon, 4" Evo Double D Long Arm Lift w/ Bilstein 5100's, 37" Nitto TGs on 17" Spyderlocks, J.E. Reel 1350 Front DS, LoD sliders, EVO 1/4 Pounder w/ Stinger, EVO Rockskins and Tire Carrier.

    Previous Rig:
    2010 JKU Mountain Edition, 35" Wrangler MT/R Kevlar's, 3.5" Rock Krawler Flex System w/ Fox Shocks, 5.13 G2 gears, Spyderlock beadlocks, Coast 1310 FDS, EVO C2 kit and drag link flip kit, LoD sliders, Trektop NX.

  3. #3
    Nothing but a Thing Prime8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chairokey
    If someone wanted to leave their Jeep stock, sure a Rubicon would be a great choice. But if you plan to build your Jeep, could you not make a sport better than a Rubicon with less money than the difference in base price? Is $6,000 really worth the upgraded Rock-Trac transfer case and Tru-Lock differentials? I'm really not positive what the difference is between the regular transfer case and differentials and the Rubicons upgraded parts.. Also I didn't add the wheels and tires as a deciding factor because most are likely to upgrade those anyway..
    BTW, regular t case is 2.3:1 (?) and only Rubicons have locking differentials. For $5000 you can get a loaded PR44. For ~$2000 you can get the Atlas case, and for $1000 you can get the rear ARB locker (add
    $200+ for compressor). So for $8200 you can have parts better than Rubicon stock parts. Add in a grand or two for Install... All said and done, you'd probably be around $10k. Yes the components are better, but you also need to come up with that money out-of-pocket, whereas you can finance the Rubicon.
    Epic Addictions!

    New Rig:
    2013 JKU Rubicon, 4" Evo Double D Long Arm Lift w/ Bilstein 5100's, 37" Nitto TGs on 17" Spyderlocks, J.E. Reel 1350 Front DS, LoD sliders, EVO 1/4 Pounder w/ Stinger, EVO Rockskins and Tire Carrier.

    Previous Rig:
    2010 JKU Mountain Edition, 35" Wrangler MT/R Kevlar's, 3.5" Rock Krawler Flex System w/ Fox Shocks, 5.13 G2 gears, Spyderlock beadlocks, Coast 1310 FDS, EVO C2 kit and drag link flip kit, LoD sliders, Trektop NX.

  4. #4
    Been Around the Block Chairokey's Avatar
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    Truth. Thanks for doing the research that I was too lazy to do haha. I suppose the Rubicon buys you time so that you can focus your attention elsewhere and not have to worry about those components right away since they are capable of doing the job just fine..

  5. #5
    Been Around the Block Indefatigable's Avatar
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    Perhaps the threshold mod that one might make to determine if Rubi or non-Rubi would be the way to go... long arm kit. If you are going far enough to cut out the suspension and replace it and the frame mounts, might as well do everything.

    Pretty much what I did with my LJ. Non-rubi and then put in D44s, Atlas and long arms.

    Suggestion. If you are going Atlas. Forget about the 2 speed. Go 4 speed. 3.8 or 4.3 with the 2.7. Cable shifters for all. I found the 4spd radically changes the capabilities of the vehicle compared to a 2 speed. Enables better "touring" and "creepy crawling"
    05 LJ - Hi-Lo-2nd Lo- Stupid Lo
    Herd of Turtles 4WD Society

  6. #6
    Nothing but a Thing Prime8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Indefatigable
    Perhaps the threshold mod that one might make to determine if Rubi or non-Rubi would be the way to go... long arm kit. If you are going far enough to cut out the suspension and replace it and the frame mounts, might as well do everything.

    Pretty much what I did with my LJ. Non-rubi and then put in D44s, Atlas and long arms.

    Suggestion. If you are going Atlas. Forget about the 2 speed. Go 4 speed. 3.8 or 4.3 with the 2.7. Cable shifters for all. I found the 4spd radically changes the capabilities of the vehicle compared to a 2 speed. Enables better "touring" and "creepy crawling"
    I'll be getting the '13 Rubi and promptly putting on the EVO Double D long arm kit. Which is why I didn't factor-in the suspension in my above calculations. Although, one of the few take-offs that sells regularly is the Rubi suspension... And since my brackets will be permanently removed, I won't have a use for the stock suspension ever again.
    Epic Addictions!

    New Rig:
    2013 JKU Rubicon, 4" Evo Double D Long Arm Lift w/ Bilstein 5100's, 37" Nitto TGs on 17" Spyderlocks, J.E. Reel 1350 Front DS, LoD sliders, EVO 1/4 Pounder w/ Stinger, EVO Rockskins and Tire Carrier.

    Previous Rig:
    2010 JKU Mountain Edition, 35" Wrangler MT/R Kevlar's, 3.5" Rock Krawler Flex System w/ Fox Shocks, 5.13 G2 gears, Spyderlock beadlocks, Coast 1310 FDS, EVO C2 kit and drag link flip kit, LoD sliders, Trektop NX.

  7. #7
    Caught the Bug
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    In 2002 i bought a brand new TJ X model. I didn't know anything about jeeps. That TJ had a D30 front and a D35 rear. My first wheeling trip i snapped a rear axle shaft on the D35. So i started my research to see what i could do to beef things up. Long story short, i ended up putting a Ford 8.8 rear axle, a Super 30 kit in the front, ARB air lockers front/rear, re-geared to 4:88, installed a TeraLow 4:1 transfer case and ran Superior axle shafts front/rear.

    All those mods were done over a period of about 3 years. I wheeled that jeep for almost 10 yrs before i sold it. When i was looking for a new JK i immediately knew i wanted to go straight to the Rubicon. I basically spent all my money on the first jeep to get it to Rubicon status or maybe even a little better.

    With the Rubicon purchase i'm already where my old TJ was. Sure i'll end up doing mods to it but straight off the lot it already has more wheeling capability than my old TJ.

    Plus i love the electronic locks in the Rubicon vs the ARB air lockers i had in my TJ.

    Disclaimer: Yes i know dollar for dollar its less expensive to buy a base model jeep and then put your own axles, transfer case, gears, additional upgrades to it. But it depends on how hardcore you ultimately want your rig to be. For my wheeling/driving/daily driver style i knew that buying a Rubicon and then adding a few additional items was the perfect scenario.

    And as others have said in this thread, its also important to factor in being able to 'finance' a jeep as capable as a Rubicon vs having to come out of your pocket with cash to buy the mods to build stock jeep.

    Would i love to have a pair of Dynatrac ProRock 60's? You bet i would. And its not out of the realm of possibility down the road. Just sayin.
    Last edited by TX_JK; 05-27-2012 at 10:00 PM.
    - 2002 TJ (Solar Yellow) - Bought, Built, Wheeled, SOLD!
    - 2012 JK Unlimited Rubicon (Sahara Tan) - Bought, Built, Wheeled, SOLD!
    - 2013 JK Unlimited Rubicon (Commando Green) - Bought, Getting There...

  8. #8
    Fresh Catch RedRockIt's Avatar
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    Absolutely get the Rubi!

    I was thinking along th same lines as you. Why pay extra for stuff I'll replace anyways? But unless you already ha e all the parts sitting in your garage, the best bet is to get the rubi so that your wheeling experience is much better until all the upgrades arrive.

    Also you can get more money selling rubi parts ie suspension, axles etc then you can sport parts. Which in turn can help you fund ur upgrades.

    Take it from me, I have a 2012 sport and already wish I had bought a Rubi :/

  9. #9
    Addict StrizzyChris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedRockIt View Post
    Absolutely get the Rubi!
    Also you can get more money selling rubi parts ie suspension, axles etc then you can sport parts. Which in turn can help you fund ur upgrades.
    I have a sahara and wish I would have got the Rubi. It allows you to build it as the money comes in and still have a tough offroad capable jeep, rather than all at once to have the same capability. I was under the mindset of why buy it, if ill later replace it. I was wrong!
    With my sahara I dont want to put a penny into my D30 front that is worthless(relitively) on aftermarket compared to the Rubi D44 that people are fetching good cash for.

    PS in my signature box, the wheels and tires are not on my jeep yet because I dont have my 1 tons.
    2013 Dune JKU Rubicon <-- Build Thread

    37" Nitto Trail Grapplers on 17" ATX Slabs, EVO BO Coilovers Front and Rear, GenRight Rear Tire Carrier, RK Front lower Control Arms, Adams 1310 Front DS, LOD Sliders, DynoMax Comp Exhaust, EVO ProTek Skids, Fender Trim, EVO 1/4 Pounder and stinger, Warn 9.5ti, EVO C-Gussets, AEV Procal, Trektop NX

    ***Buy Jeep parts Made in the U.S.A.!!!***

  10. #10
    Hooked MikeLisa's Avatar
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    I have a Sport and with all I have seen and read in this forum and Wayalife I wish I'd gotten a Rubi. I'm hoping in about 2 years I'll trade mine for a Rubi and any mobs will hopefully be transferable.
    3/4" pucks w/Rubicon shocks and springs
    285/70/17 Hankook Dynapro MT
    Rampage recovery front bumper w/Smittybilt winch
    Rugged Ridge side armor

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