LS anyone? Maybe?

CrazyJKer

New member
So I took my Jeep into the shop the other day, for a little problem I've been having. It's pops out of first gear from a stop to a rolling start. A couple hours later the service writer approaches me and says " It's going to cost $1800".:bummed: So I started thinking, Why should I fix a not so strong transmission for an under powered engine? When I could swap it out for a LS and a stronger transmission. I mean come on more power and strength? Why not you only live once. Now I'm in the process saving and making up my mind on what engine transmission pairing I should go with. I found out that what is usually said is true, an off road rig usually has an ever growing list.
 

GCM 2

New member
$1800 is almost a bargain compared to doing a quality LS swap, and that is even if you are doing it in your own garage. Not discouraging you at all, I am a believer in the LS swap versus a Hemi conversion. The only reason it has not happened on my rig is the cost. But I did begin my build from the ground up and not the engine bay out, which when done from the engine out will surely cost you a lot more if you actually use the jeep for off roading. To put things into perspective with a few associated cost that should be done with a V8 swap when doing it right:
$10,000- Front axle
$7000- Rear axle
$2200-atlas transfer case
$1500- front and rear 1350 driveshafts

Do you need the above to do a swap, no. But why do a V8 swap if you it's only going to be done with a half effort?
 

LoPo

Caught the Bug
$1800 is almost a bargain compared to doing a quality LS swap, and that is even if you are doing it in your own garage. Not discouraging you at all, I am a believer in the LS swap versus a Hemi conversion. The only reason it has not happened on my rig is the cost. But I did begin my build from the ground up and not the engine bay out, which when done from the engine out will surely cost you a lot more if you actually use the jeep for off roading. To put things into perspective with a few associated cost that should be done with a V8 swap when doing it right:
$10,000- Front axle
$7000- Rear axle
$2200-atlas transfer case
$1500- front and rear 1350 driveshafts

Do you need the above to do a swap, no. But why do a V8 swap if you it's only going to be done with a half effort?

Factor in the cost of new rims for the new bolt pattern on those shiny new axles as well. :thumb: Say some slabs at just under $400 a piece, you're looking at another $2k.

It ain't cheap. I've started my research and planning, trying to see what can be phased when and it's difficult as there are a lot of inter-dependencies.
 

GCM 2

New member
Factor in the cost of new rims for the new bolt pattern on those shiny new axles as well. :thumb: Say some slabs at just under $400 a piece, you're looking at another $2k.

It ain't cheap. I've started my research and planning, trying to see what can be phased when and it's difficult as there are a lot of inter-dependencies.

Yep, it just sounds so easy! Anything done incorrectly is usually pretty easy to throw together. Doing it correctly is somehow never cheap ;)
 

AllAmericanInfidel

Caught the Bug
I'm sure there are cheaper options out there, but most LS conversions that I have researched are about 10 grand just for engine and required conversion components, not including all the additional requirements that are mentioned here. For a turn key conversion, seems like the norm is around 20 grand for a quality conversion. For that kind of money, Id fix it and supercharge it if power is an issue. Just my :twocents:
 

2007 JKU

Banned
Dam :eek: what axles are you looking at even prorocks 60 and a 80 built don't cost $17k..

NO need for a Atlas with a ls-6l80 swap

It can be done way less than $20k DIY...Motec kits $5k+ and LS motors and trans can be found cheap. My '12 ls 5.3 and 6l80e has 800 miles on it and cost me $4k. get a pair with 30-70k for about $1000-1500
 

Fir-na-tine

Caught the Bug
Dam :eek: what axles are you looking at even prorocks 60 and a 80 built don't cost $17k..

They absolutely do cost that much.........I'm in the process of pricing out my JKX spec sheet punch list (thanks Greg for your advice) and my quote on Dynatrac D60's F/R was spot on what he told me they were going to be so if anyone knows how much they cost it's him.......I'm going with the 3.6 for now but natural progression will ultimately have me gravitating towards an LS transplant and by then if things go the way I plan I'll have one on the shelf waiting when that time comes.......building a solid foundation first is my mind set now.....makes it all the more easier to except the additional power later.

Woody
:beer:
Cheers
 
Dam :eek: what axles are you looking at even prorocks 60 and a 80 built don't cost $17k..

NO need for a Atlas with a ls-6l80 swap

It can be done way less than $20k DIY...Motec kits $5k+ and LS motors and trans can be found cheap. My '12 ls 5.3 and 6l80e has 800 miles on it and cost me $4k. get a pair with 30-70k for about $1000-1500

Apologies misread a post. Had to read it a couple times to fully understand it.
 
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Can't you just get some old 70s ford axles, modifying build them and be good. Would that be cheaper then going to dynatrac route and be just as good?
 

Linebacker

Caught the Bug
I think what we're sayin' here, including original Jeep, it's gonna be north of $70K to correctly convert and upgrade to an LS. Maybe alot more! Scary as that is, it sounds about right.:shock:
 
Can't you just get some old 70s ford axles, modifying build them and be good. Would that be cheaper then going to dynatrac route and be just as good?

Then you have to buy breaks gears shafts locker and all type of things and you're not to far from a pro rock after that!
 

2007 JKU

Banned
Dam :eek: what axles are you looking at even prorocks 60 and a 80 built don't cost $17k..

They absolutely do cost that much.........I'm in the process of pricing out my JKX spec sheet punch list (thanks Greg for your advice) and my quote on Dynatrac D60's F/R was spot on what he told me they were going to be so if anyone knows how much they cost it's him.......I'm going with the 3.6 for now but natural progression will ultimately have me gravitating towards an LS transplant and by then if things go the way I plan I'll have one on the shelf waiting when that time comes.......building a solid foundation first is my mind set now.....makes it all the more easier to except the additional power later.

Woody
:beer:
Cheers

Then you need to find a new source for pricing..my quote is way less....
 
Then you have to buy breaks gears shafts locker and all type of things and you're not to far from a pro rock after that!

Yea but I don't see that costing 17k for just axles. At least not where I'm from. But where I live there are just a bunch of rednecks and country boys who do a lot if mud riding so there are plenty of old ford trucks and broncos laying around. I would also think the stock shafts that come in those axles are probably pretty strong so would rcvs and all that really be necessary? Idk maybe I'm wrong. I'm not the type of person to go ALL out just to do it. I try and justify a need for it. That's just me.
 
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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Yea but I don't see that costing 17k for just axles. At least not where I'm from. But where I live there are just a bunch of rednecks and country boys who do a lot if mud riding so there are plenty of old ford trucks and broncos laying around. I would also think the stock shafts that come in those axles are probably pretty strong so would rcvs and all that really be necessary? Idk maybe I'm wrong. I'm not the type of person to go ALL out just to do it. I try and justify a need for it. That's just me.

For the kind of wheeling you do, I'd just play with what you've got and upgrade if or when you break something. Out here in the west, the desert rocks are very unforgiving and nothing short of $17k in axles has been able to keep me going.

I will let my source, the owner of Dynatrac Axles, know I need to find a new source for better pricing :cheesy:

:cheesy: That's what I was thinking :crazyeyes:
 
Oh it's not for me I was posting concerning the thread we are in. I don't know the specs for the old ford axles compared to the dynatrac axles. I'm just simply wondering if its completely necessary to go dynatrac or is there comparable axles out there for a way better price. Understand you might have to put some work in them. I'm just trying to gain knowledge. Guess ill do some more looking online. General concerns us on here is if it ain't dynatrac then it won't hold up or it's worth it. Nothing against dynatrac. Their axles are beastly and I would love to have them under my rig. Just don't make the money y'all do
 

GCM 2

New member
Oh it's not for me I was posting concerning the thread we are in. I don't know the specs for the old ford axles compared to the dynatrac axles. I'm just simply wondering if its completely necessary to go dynatrac or is there comparable axles out there for a way better price. Understand you might have to put some work in them. I'm just trying to gain knowledge. Guess ill do some more looking online. General concerns us on here is if it ain't dynatrac then it won't hold up or it's worth it. Nothing against dynatrac. Their axles are beastly and I would love to have them under my rig. Just don't make the money y'all do


Did you know that a Dynatrac ProRock 60 or 80 is an upgrade over any Ford, GM, or Dodge Dana or Sterling series axle? Well it is. Probably the only exception to true strong factory axles might be a Corporate 14 bolt, but I think the ProRock 80 might have that covered now. It is not just Chrysler/Fiat/Jeep that uses poorly underbuilt Dana axles. Remember, what is that you are asking your axles to reliably do? I know what I put my $17k worth of axles through time and time again without issues. And when my four door JK is fully loaded, I am pushing the vehicle weight of a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck. Now have that stock junyard truck axle do this and work flawlessly every time.

228149_10151154654123680_1528654277_n.jpg

or this...

image-2032760249.jpg


No one is saying that you have to do a brand new crate LS motor or new EVO spec'd Dynatrac ProRock 60's, because they are pricey. But I have taken the route of 'junkyard' motors and axles on many different kinds of builds and it is never just plug and play. Guys on here write things with a low dollar figure next to it and make it sound like its just so cheap, problem free and easy. Buying something that basically just bolts in, has a ton of research and development behind it like a Dynatrac Axle is often cheaper and completely trouble free than a $1200 junkyard find that needs a lot of time and fab work put into it to make it function....and maybe not function as well as the initially more expensive turnkey product. A build will always come down to the simple fact of your budget. Build what you can afford to build and run it with in its limits. If junkyard parts builds were the equal to buying top shelf parts, you would see more people racing in Indy series, Baja 1000, NASCAR, Ultra 4, Formula Drift, World Rally Cup, etc. So really, how hard do you think you are wheeling your jeep?????
 

David1tontj

New member
I went with the old ford axles, and it wasn't as cheap as I thought, and I really wish I hadn't built that 10.25 rear! It's strong and all, but it freaking drags on everything!! O, and I didn't find any special "deals" for gears on those axles! You will be over a grand just for gears and install kits. Then you have axle bearings, diff covers, lockers, brackets, fabrication, possible narrowing, installation, drive shafts, steering, rims, disc brake conversion, e brake, new brakes, brake lines, and on and on........ All that, and you still don't have chromo shafts etc..
It worked for me, but it definitely wasn't as cheap as I thought it would be!
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1381969786.682012.jpg


05 Tj, long arm, one ton, lockers, winches, 39.5" Iroks
 

GCM 2

New member
I went with the old ford axles, and it wasn't as cheap as I thought, and I really wish I hadn't built that 10.25 rear! It's strong and all, but it freaking drags on everything!! O, and I didn't find any special "deals" for gears on those axles! You will be over a grand just for gears and install kits. Then you have axle bearings, diff covers, lockers, brackets, fabrication, possible narrowing, installation, drive shafts, steering, rims, disc brake conversion, e brake, new brakes, brake lines, and on and on........ All that, and you still don't have chromo shafts etc..
It worked for me, but it definitely wasn't as cheap as I thought it would be!
View attachment 53066


05 Tj, long arm, one ton, lockers, winches, 39.5" Iroks

I am completely with you here. On my TJ, I transplanted Dana 60's from an old Ford, did most of the work myself and it still cost me thousands in the end to strengthen it and update all internals with quality parts and selectable lockers. After spun crank bearings in the straight 6 stock motor, I did an engine swap to a SBC 383 stroker. Simple compared to a JK, but that cost way more than I expected with fab work for motor and trans mounts, cooling system upgrades, new custom length driveshafts, and a few more "must do" items for a reliable V8 swap.

That's why I think most guys that just throw random low ball figures out for all these swaps have not truly done the math. Bottom line; is it cheaper to do junkyard swaps, of course. But it's never as cheap as you think when you start the project. There is no shortage of for sale unfinished "projects" on forums, craigslist, and local papers due to unexpected cost, efforts and loss of interests by do it yourself'ers
 
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