ORE and DYNATRAC

rtguy1

New member
Figured I'd throw this on here to share my experience with ORE and DYNATRAC. I'm running a PROROCK 44 up front with RCV's, 4.88's, DYNATRAC BALLJOINTS and ARB air locker. Recently I noticed some fluid leaking from my engine compartment onto the frame rail. It looked and smelled like gear oil but couldn't figure out where the hell it was coming from and how gear oil would be coming from the engine bay. After looking everything over several times I realized it was puking from the front locker solenoid on my ARB compressor. Gear oil was coming up the airline from the diff and puking out of the solenoid. Well I talked to ORE about the issue. Mel called DYNATRAC personally and before I knew it an ARB rebuild kit was on its way. Took my rig in yesterday for the rebuild. They pulled the diff and installed the rebuild kit along with a new solenoid. All fixed up courtesy of DYNATRAC and ORE. For those of you wondering who to buy your PROROCK's from I highly recommend ORE. They have a close relationship with DYNATRAC and if you have any issues you can count on them to make it right. Spend those hard earned dollars wisely and with the right folks. :beer:
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Figured I'd throw this on here to share my experience with ORE and DYNATRAC. I'm running a PROROCK 44 up front with RCV's, 4.88's, DYNATRAC BALLJOINTS and ARB air locker. Recently I noticed some fluid leaking from my engine compartment onto the frame rail. It looked and smelled like gear oil but couldn't figure out where the hell it was coming from and how gear oil would be coming from the engine bay. After looking everything over several times I realized it was puking from the front locker solenoid on my ARB compressor. Gear oil was coming up the airline from the diff and puking out of the solenoid. Well I talked to ORE about the issue. Mel called DYNATRAC personally and before I knew it an ARB rebuild kit was on its way. Took my rig in yesterday for the rebuild. They pulled the diff and installed the rebuild kit along with a new solenoid. All fixed up courtesy of DYNATRAC and ORE. For those of you wondering who to buy your PROROCK's from I highly recommend ORE. They have a close relationship with DYNATRAC and if you have any issues you can count on them to make it right. Spend those hard earned dollars wisely and with the right folks. :beer:

stories like this make me wish i was in socal by EVO so i could work with them. or have an EVO out East here so we have access to a highly trained group of guys thats knows there stuff.

thanks for sharing!
 

hinrichs

Caught the Bug
stories like this make me wish i was in socal by EVO so i could work with them. or have an EVO out East here so we have access to a highly trained group of guys thats knows there stuff.

thanks for sharing!


x2 on this one :thumb:
 

Fir-na-tine

Caught the Bug
That would be a dream come true for us "East Coasters"........I personally would jump at the chance of being one of the first in line to have them build my JKX Jeep.......as it is now I'm having to weigh the logistics cost of delivering my rig to and from ORE from South Florida when I finally pull the trigger on the axle swaps , DTD, and rear Lever setup.......having an east coast ORE shop would be so much more cost effective for me as far as the build and if I ever needed anything repaired or replaced as well.....looking at the map and trying to get something centrally located Richmond, Va., Raleigh, NC, or Charlotte, NC looks to be about equal distance north and south.......Raleigh would be great for me Southwest flies into there and they have some cheap flights from Fort Lauderdale :brows:........and then I woke up and reality again sinks in.........depression ensues and we're back where we started.....no East Coast ORE.....:grayno:

Woody:rock:
 

ChaosNein

New member
Figured I'd throw this on here to share my experience with ORE and DYNATRAC. I'm running a PROROCK 44 up front with RCV's, 4.88's, DYNATRAC BALLJOINTS and ARB air locker. Recently I noticed some fluid leaking from my engine compartment onto the frame rail. It looked and smelled like gear oil but couldn't figure out where the hell it was coming from and how gear oil would be coming from the engine bay. After looking everything over several times I realized it was puking from the front locker solenoid on my ARB compressor. Gear oil was coming up the airline from the diff and puking out of the solenoid. Well I talked to ORE about the issue. Mel called DYNATRAC personally and before I knew it an ARB rebuild kit was on its way. Took my rig in yesterday for the rebuild. They pulled the diff and installed the rebuild kit along with a new solenoid. All fixed up courtesy of DYNATRAC and ORE. For those of you wondering who to buy your PROROCK's from I highly recommend ORE. They have a close relationship with DYNATRAC and if you have any issues you can count on them to make it right. Spend those hard earned dollars wisely and with the right folks. :beer:

:thumb: Thank You! Glad we could get you fixed up.
 

DCR JEEP

New member
stories like this make me wish i was in socal by EVO so i could work with them. or have an EVO out East here so we have access to a highly trained group of guys thats knows there stuff.

thanks for sharing!

X3 on that!
 

mcpuck

Caught the Bug
stories like this make me wish i was in socal by EVO so i could work with them.

I am glad I am in so cal (and 10 minutes from my house to ORE). Mel and his crew are not only friends, they have always treated me right and jump on any issues I may have. Plus they have the best products available! :yup:

Thanks EVO crew! :thumb:
 

rtguy1

New member
Ugh. Noticed today I have gear oil coming from the solenoid again. Has anyone else had this issue with their arb?
 

Rottenbelly

New member
Mines does it about every other time I go wheeling hard.
Mostly just the rear with a riddler cover. I put a bleeder in the line and bleed it often after wheeling.
Seemed to cut down on it.
DSC_0673.jpg
 

rtguy1

New member
Bumping this up. Thanks for the solenoid blow off valve but I don't think that's an issue. The seal keeps going out allowing a large volume of gear oil to come from the solenoid. It's not just oil mist or blow off. This is accumulation on the garage floor after a couple days. This is what finally drips off. There's a mess all over the brake resevoir, fender liner, frame rail, etc. who knows how much blows out while driving down the road at 75+mph View attachment 58676
 

Rubitron

New member
Figured I'd throw this on here to share my experience with ORE and DYNATRAC. I'm running a PROROCK 44 up front with RCV's, 4.88's, DYNATRAC BALLJOINTS and ARB air locker. Recently I noticed some fluid leaking from my engine compartment onto the frame rail. It looked and smelled like gear oil but couldn't figure out where the hell it was coming from and how gear oil would be coming from the engine bay. After looking everything over several times I realized it was puking from the front locker solenoid on my ARB compressor. Gear oil was coming up the airline from the diff and puking out of the solenoid. Well I talked to ORE about the issue. Mel called DYNATRAC personally and before I knew it an ARB rebuild kit was on its way. Took my rig in yesterday for the rebuild. They pulled the diff and installed the rebuild kit along with a new solenoid. All fixed up courtesy of DYNATRAC and ORE. For those of you wondering who to buy your PROROCK's from I highly recommend ORE. They have a close relationship with DYNATRAC and if you have any issues you can count on them to make it right. Spend those hard earned dollars wisely and with the right folks. :beer:

What kind of rebuild kit did they use? And I notice you said that they pulled the diff cover, what did they replace inside their?


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devwil68

Member
Sport looking for a D44

I have a '13 sport running 37s with a sleeve and lower knuckle gussets on a stock D30 with 4.88s. We do trail riding mainly level 3 runs on a total of level 5 trails.

I have been been thinking, do we NEED to try and step up to a stock D44 and throw a sleeve in it with full gussets from Artec with a locker? Or wait for a PR44 with all the bells and whistles just because we're rolling 37s??? .I would like the peace of mind, but don't know if it's necessary to spend that cash...

***Would love to rely on a fully sleeved and Artec trussed D30 with some upgraded axles if possible, and throw in a locker to get us out of pinches when we get in them...

Any thoughts or direction? Currently know of a brand new stock mopar D44 "housing" I could get from a dealer for $1340 but don't know if it's a good deal for the same knuckles that need reinforcing.

Cheers!
Dw
 

munstie

New member
I have a '13 sport running 37s with a sleeve and lower knuckle gussets on a stock D30 with 4.88s. We do trail riding mainly level 3 runs on a total of level 5 trails.

I have been been thinking, do we NEED to try and step up to a stock D44 and throw a sleeve in it with full gussets from Artec with a locker? Or wait for a PR44 with all the bells and whistles just because we're rolling 37s??? .I would like the peace of mind, but don't know if it's necessary to spend that cash...

***Would love to rely on a fully sleeved and Artec trussed D30 with some upgraded axles if possible, and throw in a locker to get us out of pinches when we get in them...

Any thoughts or direction? Currently know of a brand new stock mopar D44 "housing" I could get from a dealer for $1340 but don't know if it's a good deal for the same knuckles that need reinforcing.

Cheers!
Dw

Run it until it fails, then go with the prorock..:thumbup:
 

suicideking

New member
Run it until it fails, then go with the prorock..:thumbup:

These are my plans. I did an axle swap for a Rubi D44 front. Just add the c gussets and a diff cover. Lots of people run 37's on a D44. Only ones I know of that broke one were people that knew they were pushing their luck. So yeah, don't start catching a lot of air or jump over cars and you should be fine. :cheesy:

My attitude on the subject: I hope if it does break, there are enough working pieces that I can just switch to the PR44 replacement housing. If not, then that's what credit cards are for.
 

JeepAholic

Member
I have a '13 sport running 37s with a sleeve and lower knuckle gussets on a stock D30 with 4.88s. We do trail riding mainly level 3 runs on a total of level 5 trails.

I have been been thinking, do we NEED to try and step up to a stock D44 and throw a sleeve in it with full gussets from Artec with a locker? Or wait for a PR44 with all the bells and whistles just because we're rolling 37s??? .I would like the peace of mind, but don't know if it's necessary to spend that cash...

***Would love to rely on a fully sleeved and Artec trussed D30 with some upgraded axles if possible, and throw in a locker to get us out of pinches when we get in them...

Any thoughts or direction? Currently know of a brand new stock mopar D44 "housing" I could get from a dealer for $1340 but don't know if it's a good deal for the same knuckles that need reinforcing.

Cheers!
Dw

Well I think by the time you sleeve, gusset and sleeve the mopar you would just about be able to purchase the PR. I'm just saying.


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suicideking

New member
Well I think by the time you sleeve, gusset and sleeve the mopar you would just about be able to purchase the PR. I'm just saying.


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Gussets are not expensive and a sleeve is not needed. So nowhere near comparable to the price of a PR.
 

Stegertime

Caught the Bug
My attitude on the subject: I hope if it does break, there are enough working pieces that I can just switch to the PR44 replacement housing. If not, then that's what credit cards are for.

I'm equally a fan of the notion that it is best to replace when broken, but just wanted to clarify here that you know you can't put D30 axles, diff, etc. into a PR44 housing. It sounded like you were saying that, maybe I'm confused by your statement. I know they sell the PR44 housing for people who have a Rubicon or a D44 up front, the PR44 housing uses those guys not the D30 guts. That's why a lot of guys will tell you, it costs almost half of a true PR 44 to do sleeves, gussets, axles, and trusses to beef up a D30 that may still fail from hard wheeling, so it is best to just save for the PR44 up front. Just wanted to make sure you were clear 😄✌🏻
 

suicideking

New member
I'm equally a fan of the notion that it is best to replace when broken, but just wanted to clarify here that you know you can't put D30 axles, diff, etc. into a PR44 housing. It sounded like you were saying that, maybe I'm confused by your statement. I know they sell the PR44 housing for people who have a Rubicon or a D44 up front, the PR44 housing uses those guys not the D30 guts. That's why a lot of guys will tell you, it costs almost half of a true PR 44 to do sleeves, gussets, axles, and trusses to beef up a D30 that may still fail from hard wheeling, so it is best to just save for the PR44 up front. Just wanted to make sure you were clear ✌️

Holy thread from the grave batman! :doh:

Maybe if you read the whole post, you wouldn't be asking if I had a d30.

These are my plans. I did an axle swap for a Rubi D44 front. Just add the c gussets and a diff cover. Lots of people run 37's on a D44. Only ones I know of that broke one were people that knew they were pushing their luck. So yeah, don't start catching a lot of air or jump over cars and you should be fine. :cheesy:

My attitude on the subject: I hope if it does break, there are enough working pieces that I can just switch to the PR44 replacement housing. If not, then that's what credit cards are for.
 

Stegertime

Caught the Bug
Holy thread from the grave batman! :doh:

Maybe if you read the whole post, you wouldn't be asking if I had a d30.

Ah got it, my apologies, I was viewing from my phone and must have skipped over that part, sorry about that. Yeah I was waiting at the dealership and was lost in vendor threads lol ✌🏻
 
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