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  1. #601
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    IMG_0422.jpg
    Thanks for the write up! Got my ready for install.


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  2. #602
    Knows a Thing or Two OhNoTheJiggies's Avatar
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    So I'm trying to figure out how to wire in a switch for winch in/out, can anyone point me in that direction? I am lost and can't seem to be able to use the search function too well right now.


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  3. #603
    Nothing but a Thing TrainWreck618's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OhNoTheJiggies View Post
    So I'm trying to figure out how to wire in a switch for winch in/out, can anyone point me in that direction? I am lost and can't seem to be able to use the search function too well right now.


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    Do you mean a switch to replace your controller? Or an on/off switch?


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  4. #604
    Been Around the Block Frydaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OhNoTheJiggies View Post
    So I'm trying to figure out how to wire in a switch for winch in/out, can anyone point me in that direction? I am lost and can't seem to be able to use the search function too well right now.
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    Lucily, you won't need another relay to make this work, all you have to do is emulate the remote switch.
    For an in-cab winch control, it can go either way depending on the type of winch you have. Look at the plug on your remote, If there are three pins, then it will be easy as pie.

    I'm too lazy to make a drawing today, Left is a 3-wire, and Right is a Warn 5-wire.
    XRC8socket.jpg warn1.gif

    The three wire setup, has a common line, that will touch either the In or Out wire. You will need a SPDT (Single Pole, Dual Throw) momentary switch for this, and a SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) for the power cutoff. Wire the power switch to the common line, then send that to the middle pin of the SPDT switch. The top and bottom pins then go to the In and Out wires respectively.

    12voltguy dot com makes some neat switch panels, but they're too expensive for my tastes. His winch panel alone is $55 and up.

    A warn 5-wire setup is a bit more involved, but can still be achieved without a relay. You will need a DPDT (Dual Pole, Dual Throw) switch. Refer the second picture, Top right corner.

    Edit: Hmm, It looks like the Warn wont need a DPDT switch after all. See the top three points on the switch? those two wires could go to the power switch, and the bottom three points can go to the SPDT In-Out switch!
    Last edited by Frydaddy; 01-18-2017 at 04:09 PM.

  5. #605
    Knows a Thing or Two OhNoTheJiggies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frydaddy View Post
    Lucily, you won't need another relay to make this work, all you have to do is emulate the remote switch.
    For an in-cab winch control, it can go either way depending on the type of winch you have. Look at the plug on your remote, If there are three pins, then it will be easy as pie.

    I'm too lazy to make a drawing today, Left is a 3-wire, and Right is a Warn 5-wire.
    XRC8socket.jpg warn1.gif

    The three wire setup, has a common line, that will touch either the In or Out wire. You will need a SPDT (Single Pole, Dual Throw) momentary switch for this, and a SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) for the power cutoff. Wire the power switch to the common line, then send that to the middle pin of the SPDT switch. The top and bottom pins then go to the In and Out wires respectively.

    12voltguy dot com makes some neat switch panels, but they're too expensive for my tastes. His winch panel alone is $55 and up.

    A warn 5-wire setup is a bit more involved, but can still be achieved without a relay. You will need a DPDT (Dual Pole, Dual Throw) switch. Refer the second picture, Top right corner.

    Edit: Hmm, It looks like the Warn wont need a DPDT switch after all. See the top three points on the switch? those two wires could go to the power switch, and the bottom three points can go to the SPDT In-Out switch!
    Wow, you are fan-freaking-tastic! Thank you! that's exactly what I was looking for. So id just leave the controller plugged in and use this new switch? That's great, no more need to hold the controller in hand or drape it over the door... can actualy keep the windows closed(when doors are on, obviously lol). But thanks again!

  6. #606
    Been Around the Block Frydaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OhNoTheJiggies View Post
    Wow, you are fan-freaking-tastic! Thank you! that's exactly what I was looking for. So id just leave the controller plugged in and use this new switch? That's great, no more need to hold the controller in hand or drape it over the door... can actualy keep the windows closed(when doors are on, obviously lol). But thanks again!
    Glad to help! What kind of winch do you have? maybe i can find some specific documentation. There are two major types of winch controllers, one with four big can relays, and another that has a black potted box with four big terminals.

    As for wiring it up, Personally, I would want to leave the plug free, so i can still use the remote if need be. I would open the control box on the winch (disconnect power first) and tap into the wires headed to the back side of the plug. Make a notch in the cover and and add a strain relief to the cable that will route up to the cab.

    Again, if it were me, I would avoid using T-Taps and wire taps if at all possible. Much of the wiring will go to screw terminals. Properly terminate your wires and add them there.

  7. #607
    Been Around the Block CastleRockJeep's Avatar
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    Man I want to take on this project, unfortunately I am still a bit too hesitant to place the parts orders!


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  8. #608
    Been Around the Block Frydaddy's Avatar
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    I'm not sure if this might help you or not. This is my understanding of most winch controls.

    Depending on your winch, it will be a combination of the left two control boxes, and the right two switch layouts to fit your needs.

    Untitled.png

  9. #609
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    I have just read the 61 pages of this thread.... I like the idea of building my own switch POD although I was looking at the Eaton Bussman ssVEC... It is kind of already wired and waterproof plus with a total rating of 200A...

    https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4605...S-000-0-ssVEC/

    It it pricey but that would already include relays and fuses... Although you would need to be the pricey watertight connectors and it seems every output is is wired to the 4 plugs that go into it... However, it would be better waterproofed than the normal Bussman... Another item I was thinking to use would be a LVCO (low voltage cut out) as you see on the infamous we won't speak the name of manufacturer... I see on ebay for about $25 a neat miniature 12V LVCO that would be great to wire into the supply voltage to the switches so if the power drops below the set point it would pull power from the switches thus saving you from draining the battery too far. Plus, it is easily adjustable it seems....

    I found it on ebay under the description "12V 15A LOW VOLTAGE BATTERY PROTECTOR / CUT-OFF / DISCONNECT" there seem to be some others too... Seems a good idea as a safety stopgap...

    Also, I saw someone in an earlier post mention the 12voltguy.... Never heard of him before but I like the stuff although maybe too retro... lol... But I like the idea of the switch console on top of that stupid tray above the radio... Maybe using some of the overhead fiberglass switch console used in another thread and mention here...

    http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?1...ghlight=Waytek

    using some of that info I maybe able to do similar but above the radio.... I am just trying to figure a way I can do the power pod and maybe above or below the control head for my Amateur Radio...

    Any suggestions?? maybe the fiberglass above on the windshield trim and the radio head above the radio??

    Too many options.......
    NotInStock

    2016 Rubi JKU Hard Rock, 3.5" RK X-Factor, Fox Shocks, Dynatrac PR44 Front Axle, ATX Chamber Pros, BFG 35x12.5x17, LOD Destroyer Shorty Bumpers (FR & RR), Warn 8274 Winch.
    Build Thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?4...Rubi-Hard-Rock

  10. #610
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    Oh.... I forgot to say... I remember in an earlier post someone was asking about running a higher than 30A device like the double ARB air compressor... Would you be able to just wire up two of the relays input(trigger)/outputs together... Use a 30A fuse on each?? If there would be a short it would pop both fuses... If one fuse popped the other should cascade and pop almost immediately after. I do not see the issue as long as you do not try running to much current through the wire... Maybe output using 12ga from each connector then bridge both together and run 8ga from there to the compressor... The 12ga wire can be kept short to handle the current. I would just use a large butt connector crimp and solder it for better connection.

    Just my 2 cents, but the main electric guy on this forum may not like my idea...
    NotInStock

    2016 Rubi JKU Hard Rock, 3.5" RK X-Factor, Fox Shocks, Dynatrac PR44 Front Axle, ATX Chamber Pros, BFG 35x12.5x17, LOD Destroyer Shorty Bumpers (FR & RR), Warn 8274 Winch.
    Build Thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?4...Rubi-Hard-Rock

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