Axle Housing

cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
So within the next year or so i will be upgrading to a PR44. i will be on a small budget (unless i hit the lottery) and was curious about the housings. i see on ORE website you can get different housing configurations from standard all the way up to unlimited/extreme duty.

so my question is what is the main difference between all of these housings? pros or cons to one over the other? does running 37's make a difference? can you run an ARB in any of the different configuations?

thanks in advance. i want to keep the price tag as low as possible so i can put at least an ARB and 5.13's in it.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
The unlimited has the bigger tubes, 1/2". You can run an ARB you just have to get the right one for that axle. Meaning the ARB for the regular PR44 won't fit in the PR44 that uses stock internals.

To keep the price lower you could get cheaper ball joints and not get the RCV's. That will save you around $1500 up front but if you buy the dynatrac ball joints you will never need another set. It's all how much you want to spend really.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
OverlanderJK said:
The unlimited has the bigger tubes, 1/2". You can run an ARB you just have to get the right one for that axle. Meaning the ARB for the regular PR44 won't fit in the PR44 that uses stock internals.

To keep the price lower you could get cheaper ball joints and not get the RCV's. That will save you around $1500 up front but if you buy the dynatrac ball joints you will never need another set. It's all how much you want to spend really.
Click to expand...

thanks adam. prob trying to keep it under 4k total.
 
Dynatrac

Dynatrac

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We have created numerous options as the ProRock 44 gained popularity and we wanted to satisfy as many customers special needs as possible. However, the most popular and important options boil down to just 3. They are: Tru-Lok or Conventional Diff, Stock or Unlimited Geometry, and lastly tubing wall thickness.

If you're running 37's then I will assume you have at least 3" of lift. This makes the Unlimited Geometry version your most important option to choose. This option puts additional Castor and Pinion angle into the housing for best on-road handling, and steering. It will also reduce or eliminate front driveline vibration induced by the lift kit.

If you have a Rubicon then you should opt for the Tru-Lok diff version, so you can re-use your stock gears and electric selectable locker. If you're replacing a Dana 30 then I recommend the conventional diff version. We now have 3 good selectable locker choices to offer. The first is the venerable ARB AirLocker. There are countless ARB's in ProRock 44's. The 2 newest choices are the Ox-Locker, and the very latest Eaton E-locker. If you opt for the Eaton unit make sure it is the latest version they just announced with 4 spider gears.

All of these are excellent choices. Ox tells us they have several devices running around in ProRock 44's already. We just received an evaluation unit recently, and are expecting good things. I've been aware of the new Eaton device for some time, and am glad to see them finally get it to market. Eaton tells us their units are also in stock, but at this moment we have not installed one. We are not aware of any issues with any of these units.

If you want to save a few dollars the standard 3.0"x 5/16" wall tubing is plenty for your JK. Many people do go for the thicker 1/2" wall tube because it does not cost much more, but you can easily live without it.

For more info I recommend you go here http://www.dynatrac.com/products/jk/pro-rock44.html and look at the various tabs at the bottom of the page. The "downloads" tab has documents with very detailed information.

Off Road Evolution is an excellent source for your ProRock 44.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Dynatrac said:
We have created numerous options as the ProRock 44 gained popularity and we wanted to satisfy as many customers special needs as possible. However, the most popular and important options boil down to just 3. They are: Tru-Lok or Conventional Diff, Stock or Unlimited Geometry, and lastly tubing wall thickness.

If you're running 37's then I will assume you have at least 3" of lift. This makes the Unlimited Geometry version your most important option to choose. This option puts additional Castor and Pinion angle into the housing for best on-road handling, and steering. It will also reduce or eliminate front driveline vibration induced by the lift kit.

If you have a Rubicon then you should opt for the Tru-Lok diff version, so you can re-use your stock gears and electric selectable locker. If you're replacing a Dana 30 then I recommend the conventional diff version. We now have 3 good selectable locker choices to offer. The first is the venerable ARB AirLocker. There are countless ARB's in ProRock 44's. The 2 newest choices are the Ox-Locker, and the very latest Eaton E-locker. If you opt for the Eaton unit make sure it is the latest version they just announced with 4 spider gears.

All of these are excellent choices. Ox tells us they have several devices running around in ProRock 44's already. We just received an evaluation unit recently, and are expecting good things. I've been aware of the new Eaton device for some time, and am glad to see them finally get it to market. Eaton tells us their units are also in stock, but at this moment we have not installed one. We are not aware of any issues with any of these units.

If you want to save a few dollars the standard 3.0"x 5/16" wall tubing is plenty for your JK. Many people do go for the thicker 1/2" wall tube because it does not cost much more, but you can easily live without it.

For more info I recommend you go here http://www.dynatrac.com/products/jk/pro-rock44.html and look at the various tabs at the bottom of the page. The "downloads" tab has documents with very detailed information.

Off Road Evolution is an excellent source for your ProRock 44.
Click to expand...


awesome thank you for the info!

i have a 2011 sport with 5.13's currently in my D30. i am running the teraflex 2.5" lift with 35's. witht the lift i get a little over 3". i will prob move the the EVO 3" plush ride coils at somepoint to put me over the 3" barrier.

since i have a 2 door you think the standard housing is plenty then? i will go with the ARB as well since i have one in the rear already so i guess the arb style pumpkin is the way to go.
 
4x4Jesus

4x4Jesus

Caught the Bug
Dynatrac said:
We have created numerous options as the ProRock 44 gained popularity and we wanted to satisfy as many customers special needs as possible. However, the most popular and important options boil down to just 3. They are: Tru-Lok or Conventional Diff, Stock or Unlimited Geometry, and lastly tubing wall thickness.

If you're running 37's then I will assume you have at least 3" of lift. This makes the Unlimited Geometry version your most important option to choose. This option puts additional Castor and Pinion angle into the housing for best on-road handling, and steering. It will also reduce or eliminate front driveline vibration induced by the lift kit.

If you have a Rubicon then you should opt for the Tru-Lok diff version, so you can re-use your stock gears and electric selectable locker. If you're replacing a Dana 30 then I recommend the conventional diff version. We now have 3 good selectable locker choices to offer. The first is the venerable ARB AirLocker. There are countless ARB's in ProRock 44's. The 2 newest choices are the Ox-Locker, and the very latest Eaton E-locker. If you opt for the Eaton unit make sure it is the latest version they just announced with 4 spider gears.

All of these are excellent choices. Ox tells us they have several devices running around in ProRock 44's already. We just received an evaluation unit recently, and are expecting good things. I've been aware of the new Eaton device for some time, and am glad to see them finally get it to market. Eaton tells us their units are also in stock, but at this moment we have not installed one. We are not aware of any issues with any of these units.

If you want to save a few dollars the standard 3.0"x 5/16" wall tubing is plenty for your JK. Many people do go for the thicker 1/2" wall tube because it does not cost much more, but you can easily live without it.

For more info I recommend you go here http://www.dynatrac.com/products/jk/pro-rock44.html and look at the various tabs at the bottom of the page. The "downloads" tab has documents with very detailed information.

Off Road Evolution is an excellent source for your ProRock 44.
Click to expand...

Thank you guys for this info it helps me out a lot also. Much appreciated.
 
NFRs2000NYC

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
I don't mean to hijack, but I figured I'd ask here...for clarification purposes...

If I have a 2014 JKUR on a 2.5" lift and 35s, and was considering running 37s in the future without lifting anymore...would it be possible to purchase just the housing so that ALL OEM components can be reused (axles, gears, locker, brakes, etc?)...basically I guess I'd be buying it for the thicker tubes and the built in trussing...forgive my ignorance, I don't know all that much about aftermarket axle housings.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
NFRs2000NYC said:
I don't mean to hijack, but I figured I'd ask here...for clarification purposes...

If I have a 2014 JKUR on a 2.5" lift and 35s, and was considering running 37s in the future without lifting anymore...would it be possible to purchase just the housing so that ALL OEM components can be reused (axles, gears, locker, brakes, etc?)...basically I guess I'd be buying it for the thicker tubes and the built in trussing...forgive my ignorance, I don't know all that much about aftermarket axle housings.
Click to expand...

Yes. That's what Eddie did on rubicat.

Not sure if they used factory brakes or not. I think they did.
 
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Dynatrac

Dynatrac

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NFRs2000NYC said:
Thanks for the help! :thumb:

So the JK44-1X3010-E is what I'm looking for?
Click to expand...

This part number will allow the stock Rubicon Dana 44F Tru-loc electric diff, gears, yoke, axles, brakes, and wheel ends to be re-installed. Some gear work and shimming may be required to restore the original gear pattern, but it should not be difficult to do so. A new crush sleeve, pinion seal and shims should be handy before starting the install. New pinion or carrier bearings are optional.

This housing is set-up for stock geometry (Castor & Pinion angle), Tru-Lok Diff, comes with OEM ball joints installed, and has the 1/2" wall tubes. It is best suited for JK's with less than 3" of lift.

You won't find another housing with this much ground clearance, rigidity, features, and Made in the USA quality.
 
Dynatrac

Dynatrac

-
cozdude said:
awesome thank you for the info!

i have a 2011 sport with 5.13's currently in my D30. i am running the teraflex 2.5" lift with 35's. witht the lift i get a little over 3". i will prob move the the EVO 3" plush ride coils at somepoint to put me over the 3" barrier.

since i have a 2 door you think the standard housing is plenty then? i will go with the ARB as well since i have one in the rear already so i guess the arb style pumpkin is the way to go.
Click to expand...

When you are right on the 3" lift line, either housing will work well. Personally, I would choose the Dynatrac Unlimited housing with extra pinion angle and castor for this lift range. It will give you more flexibility to adjust control arms and dial in your pinion angle to avoid driveshaft vibration and achieve best highway handling. The downside is it does cost a bit more. Every modified Jeep is a little different, so results may vary.

Since you have a D30F, I recommend the Conventional diff version of the ProRock44. You are better off installing an aftermarket diff (ARB, Eaton, OX) rather than trying to acquire a Tru-Loc diff from a Rubicon. Last time I checked Tru-Loc diffs were crazy expensive. In fact, we no longer offer them as an option in loaded ProRock 44F's.
 
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