I have a 2013 JKU sport with 3.73 and 285/70r17 duratracs. I also have an after market full width bumper with winch. The max tire size I will get is 285/75r17. I am planning on getting an AEV 2.5" lift with Geo brackets and Northridge grade 8 bolts. What else should i be considering. Some recommend new rear sway bar links and move rears up front, or discos. Also front trackbar (not now but maybe later). I use the jeep as a DD (60 miles a day). I live in NJ and mostly do wooded trails and beach. I don't have any plans for rocks or ever going higher than 2.5"
2.5" AEV lift what else
- Thread starter espi
- Start date
Why a company would sell a 2.5" lift without new longer rear sway bar links or any means to address it is beyond me but, if you're determined to get this lift, yes, I would get new links. If you're not planning on playing on the rocks, there'd be no need to get disconnects - just install your factory links up front. As far as the grade 8 bolt kit goes, try not to listen to all the fear, uncertainty and doubt people with no experience try to push as necessary. Fact of the matter is, your factory bolts are 10.9 metric and they are STRONGER than grade 8. Needless to say, please do yourself a favor and save your money there. An adjustable front track bar is not necessary but, without one, your front axle will be off a bit - really, no big deal.
steve_r2
New member
I have the AEV 2.5" and it is also my daily driver.
What I would add in are SumoSprings bumpstops. I know they are expensive for what they are .....but....... they have made my life a lot more comfortable when travelling on dirt/washboard trails.
For the type of driving I do I love what I have.
What I would add in are SumoSprings bumpstops. I know they are expensive for what they are .....but....... they have made my life a lot more comfortable when travelling on dirt/washboard trails.
For the type of driving I do I love what I have.
FireWire79
New member
I was looking into getting that very kit when I was piecing together my build. Based on what I have read on this board, and I have done probablly too much reading, you may want to look for another kit for the money. The Teraflex 2.5" kit comes with the trackbar relocation brackets, as well as shock extensions, and brakeline extensions as well. The kit is priced under that of the AEV kit, and gets similiar reviews. With the TF kit you can run stock shocks with the extensions, or upgrade to Bilstein 5100s or Rancho 7000s and still come in around the cost of the AEV kit.
Since you plan on running approximately 33" tires, you require very little lift, and will still be fairly capable offroad without havintg to worry about other issues. One of the things I was informed about was the fact that your driveshafts MAY have to be replaced with a lift of that height. Apparently the stock driveshafts are prone to failure when being used in a lifted application.
I have actually "punked out" some and settled on a RE 2" budget lift and Rancho 7000s, for around $500. This will allow me to run upto a 35" tire, and SHOULD alleviate any driveline problems for a while. This is a nice way to allow you to run the tires that you want while you research some other kits that are available. That's just my :twocents:
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While a 285 will have an actual measurement of about 33", so does most tires that state 35" on the sidewall. A 265 would be more of an advertised 33".
Actually, it's not the lift per se but rather, the installation of shocks that are too long and allow for too much droop. You can damage your drive shaft with just a budget boost if you run shocks that are too long.
Eddie,
I am pretty sure that the Grade 8 and Metric 10.9 are almost identical strengths.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx
I was looking to replace the hardware since the grade 8 bolts seem to have a better fit. I know what slop in a system can do. I know you are not a fan of the AEV "lift kits" because the large use of brackets. I liked the AEV lift because you get progressive springs and shocks and do a good job of keeping the lift under 3". If you were to get a kit under $1500 including everything that offered an excellent on road ride and 2.5" of lift, but not to much that I need to change my drive shafts? I am totally open to suggestions, but I am not looking to upgrade in the future or go higher. My wife is already weary because she is only 4'9" and has a hard time getting in. So this will be a one and done lift.
To address the teraflex suggestion I have read that their kits have a tendency to sag. If this is unfounded I am all ears. I think part of the problem is there are so many options one can be overwhelmed and after reading so many reviews that this kit just works it makes you lean in that direction.
Thanks for all the help
Vince
turbineguy
New member
It says right on the AEV page about the 2.5 dualsport kit that "Lift heights will vary depending on actual vehicle weight."
I wouldn't be so sure about it not being higher than 2.5".
Have you checked out Rock Krawlers 1.5" lift systems? They have a great reputation and a 1.5" lift will still allow you to run 33's.
"almost" is right BUT, the 10.9 IS still stronger.
Slop is caused by people who fail to maintain their Jeep. If a better fit was all that was required to hold your Jeep together, there would be no need for TORQUE settings. But hey, you can believe whatever it is you want to believe. Once you replace your bolts, can I have your old ones? I'll even pay for shipping :yup:
Oh please, if you really did know anything about me, the AEV 2.5" lift kit is about the only kit that I might recommend of theirs if only because it doesn't use their overpriced and weak control arm drop brackets.
And it is THIS that makes me not favor the AEV 2.5" lift. Not that it will matter to you being that you don't plan on playing on any rocks but, by it's design, progressive rate coils resist stuff and these in particular are too firm for my taste. Of course, ride quality is 100% subjective and to each their own. I prefer a softer ride especially for daily driving.
You're kidding right? If you do a little looking, I think you will find there are a host of other 2.5" lifts out there that are sold for UNDER $1000 that includes MORE than what you get with the 2.5" AEV kit and will actually address things like longer sway bar links and track bar relocation brackets. As far as "excellent on road ride" quality goes, a softer riding coil will get you that.
You would only need to change your front drive shaft IF you have a 2007-11 with an automatic AND are running longer shocks that allow for more droop. If you're just going to run the Bilsteins that come with the AEV kit and never plan on playing on the rocks, you won't need to worry about that. As far as the rear goes, IF you have a 2-door and do get 3" of actual lift, you will be needing to replace that sooner than later due to the steep angle your drive shaft will be sitting at. Of course, you will also need to get adjustable rear upper control arms to set your pinion angle when you do that.
That being said, she should know that you'll most likely be getting about 3" of lift out of your 2.5" AEV lift.
I think you might be thinking about Rough Country, their coils do sag. TeraFlex has the opposite problem. They have some of the stiffest riding coils I have ever installed and tested and in any height they offer.
So stop reading and get out there and find a few people with different lifts if you can go for a test ride. Everyone will tell you what they have is best but, if you can tune out what they have to say and just go off of what you feel, you can make a better and more educated decision. Again, ride quality is 100% subjective.
liljohn850
New member
if you're only going to be running 33's, and not playing in the rocks then you don't actually even "need" a lift. I mean, a stock JK with bump stops can rock 33's and look good while not changing much. If I were to re-do things I woulda just done a 2 inch lift, flat fenders and beefed stuff up more than now. You can do a budget boost, maybe even find a used on on the ol' CL or maybe even in the recycler. I'd drop a little coin on some 5100's (because they truly improve the ride quality) and be done with it. The amount of lift and the components needed are based on what you're going to be doing. If I was building a weekend camping trip type jeep that wouldn't see off-camber stuff or rocks, I'd grab a cheap budget boost.
As far as the AEV brackets and what not, I'm a little over 4 inches, maybe even at 5 inches (with ACOS I tend to change my front height like....weekly) of lift up front and I have the AEV brackets. They DRASTICALLY improved ride quality and handling... But...I'll never go above 4 inches of lift again...and if I ever redo my jeep I'll settle at 3 inches and go long arm. At two inches, I'm not really sure you'd really notice the geometry changes.
As far as the AEV brackets and what not, I'm a little over 4 inches, maybe even at 5 inches (with ACOS I tend to change my front height like....weekly) of lift up front and I have the AEV brackets. They DRASTICALLY improved ride quality and handling... But...I'll never go above 4 inches of lift again...and if I ever redo my jeep I'll settle at 3 inches and go long arm. At two inches, I'm not really sure you'd really notice the geometry changes.
You're absolutely right on this one. If you ask around, most people are getting about 3"+ out of their AEV 2.5" coils.
First off, a 285 will give an actual measurement of 33" but, a tire with 33" listed on the sidewall will have an actual measurement that is closer to 31.5". A 2.5" lift would be a better fit for them. Second, I personally would not recommend the RK 1.5" system as even their cheapest kit is still $1000 and doesn't even come with a rear track bar relocation bracket. Also, I really am not a fan of their control arms as even at their shortest setting, they sit at over 1" longer than stock. Even at 3" of lift, this is way too long and will cause rear coil rubbing on the track bar, bowing and other related issues. Also, I personally don't like how they use polyurethane bushings on the frame end joints as they tend to squeak. If 1.5" is all that is desired, I personally would recommend installing a set of coil spacers instead but, that's just my opinion.
liljohn850
New member
As far as the whole better fitting bolts...I'll agree that torque specs are there for a reason...If you own a jeep and wrench on your own jeep, go buy a torque wrench...It could save your front axle side track bar mount :doh:
And for those brackets again...I didn't pay the stupid price they ask...I got them from a guy going out of business :thumb: so I saved some change. For retail, there are cheaper alternatives.
Ride quality is totally up to you, ride in lifted jeeps, drive them, then decide. Don't just listen to reviews. I have a bastard built lift kit and it's a little rough for me, but hey, it was cheap :brows:
And for those brackets again...I didn't pay the stupid price they ask...I got them from a guy going out of business :thumb: so I saved some change. For retail, there are cheaper alternatives.
Ride quality is totally up to you, ride in lifted jeeps, drive them, then decide. Don't just listen to reviews. I have a bastard built lift kit and it's a little rough for me, but hey, it was cheap :brows:
liljohn850
New member
^^^^ Cheap, Easy, minimal change in geometry...did I mention cheap?
liljohn850
New member
understanding this may be higher than desired...but http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?13742-TeraFlex-Spacers-2-5-quot-F-amp-R just as an example of expected spending :beer:
Again, I think it should be noted that a 285 will have an actual measurement that is closer to an advertised 35" tire. A 33" tire will have an actual measurement that is only about 31.5". Having said that, I too would agree, given the needs of the OP, I personally would just install a coil spacer lift and call it a day.
5" of lift is SKY HIGH and yeah, without the drop brackets, the geometry of your control arms would be significantly off. Of course, as you've pointed out, going lower and utilizing long arms to do the same correction would be the better way to go. At 2", there is almost no effect on suspension geometry.
Funny thing is, when it comes to coil lifts, it's really hard to get an exact number for anything. There are just so many determining factors and most companies tend to sell taller coils with the anticipation that you will load up your jeep with heavy bumpers, armor, etc. If you just want 2" of lift, the best way to do that is with coil spacers. That will give you an exact 2" of lift. OME sells a light duty 2" lift coil that I have found to yield close to 2" as well. For 3" of lift, most 2.5" lift coils will get you that if not a bit more. EVO Plush Ride coils made for 35's are about the only coil that I have seen to offer about 3" of lift. If you're trying to save on money and not have to deal with things like driveshafts, I would lean toward 2" of lift and factory shocks with extensions or shocks that are short enough to prevent drive shaft damage. IF you are willing to buy things like drive shafts, 3" is a good height for 35's and full factory fenders.
liljohn850
New member
I thought we beat this horse. lol. my "35's" actually measure out to like 33.5 ish depending on PSI...yada yada yada
...yea...I kinda ended up here because I didn't wanna cut my fenders....:naw:
^^^Rock Krawler even points this out on their site.
I wish I'da just stayed at a budget boost, ran fenderless and rocked out some 35's with shocks that droop and bump stops for days :rock: ....but....the DMV frowns on that type'a deal
olram30
Not That Kind of Engineer
i was going to recommend to the op to look at the rancho 2" sport, 300 bucks and probably do what he wants. 3" probably evo or rancho 3" sport,but price and more stuff needed.
liljohn850
New member
Even TF can't mess up a budget boost and some shock extensions 
even though..the price may still be a little...high:naw:
even though..the price may still be a little...high:naw: