Pr44 options

HDGasser · Mar 13, 2014

I'm in a bit of a pickle.. To many options!! Hahaha

Here's my deal, I've got an 07 unlimited rubicon, 4" lift and 37's. With no plans to get any bigger.

So I'm ready to pull the trigger on some axles from dynatrac but my dilemma is that a front pr60 is outta my budget and I'm affraid the Hemi under the hood may eventually hurt a pr44... I like to wheel it and challenge myself but by no means do I beat on it.... Hell it's my wife's DD so I gotta be nice to it!!

Right now I've got a fully built factory 44 that is prolly bent cause I'm about to do a 2nd set of seals on it this weekend. Trussed, gusset'd, Dynatrac BJ's, rcv axles and 5:13's. Are the 100% PR44's any stronger than the pr housing with the factory internals?

Or am just lying to myself and need to save for a pr60 for the front?

Definetly wanna do a pr60 in the rear if it's the same track width or a trail 60. Do anyone know if there is an e locker option for the rear 60's?

Sorry for all the questions and thank you for your time, just wanna make sure if I'm gonna be spending north of $10k on axles I know what I'm getting myself into.

cozdude · Mar 13, 2014

I think overlander had told me before that moochie is running a pr44 front and a trail 60 rear. Maybe that will make you at eas a little.

Sent from my iPhone

Moochie · Mar 13, 2014

cozdude said:
I think overlander had told me before that moochie is running a pr44 front and a trail 60 rear. Maybe that will make you at eas a little.

Sent from my iPhone

I have a PR44 up front with RCV shafts but, still stock 44 in rear except for chromoly axle shafts. When the rear is bent/broke I will upgrade to a Trail 60.

HDGasser · Mar 13, 2014

Moochie said:
I have a PR44 up front with RCV shafts but, still stock 44 in rear except for chromoly axle shafts. When the rear is bent/broke I will upgrade to a Trail 60.

I've got the same setup as you in the rear.

Did you buy a complete pr44 with an arb or something? Or just a housing and swap over your stock internals?

wayoflife · Mar 13, 2014

If you're going through seals, you're front axle is most likely bent. It's a shame that you put so much money into it.

Regarding a ProRock 44, so long as you'll be for sure sticking with 37's, you should be fine with one so long as you stick with 5.13 gears. The benefit of upgrading everything is that you can get it with an ARB and 35 spline shafts. That will be stronger than reusing your factory locker and 30 spline shafts.

HDGasser · Mar 13, 2014

wayoflife said:
If you're going through seals, you're front axle is most likely bent. It's a shame that you put so much money into it.

Regarding a ProRock 44, so long as you'll be for sure sticking with 37's, you should be fine with one so long as you stick with 5.13 gears. The benefit of upgrading everything is that you can get it with an ARB and 35 spline shafts. That will be stronger than reusing your factory locker and 30 spline shafts.

I bought the jeep with the front end built how it is, I woulda done ProRocks from the gate.

Yeah 2nd passenger seal in about 5k mi maybe.

And that's what i was lookin for... 35 spline compared to 30's, any other differences in the R&P?

Also thinking of a trail 60 in the rear with a PR housing... I think this with a fully done up pr44 with Reid knuckles should be adequate enough for me.

Time to part out a front axle! Lol

OverlanderJK · Mar 13, 2014

HDGasser said:
I bought the jeep with the front end built how it is, I woulda done ProRocks from the gate.

Yeah 2nd passenger seal in about 5k mi maybe.

And that's what i was lookin for... 35 spline compared to 30's, any other differences in the R&P?

Also thinking of a trail 60 in the rear with a PR housing... I think this with a fully done up pr44 with Reid knuckles should be adequate enough for me.

Time to part out a front axle! Lol

Why do you need Reid knuckles? Have you ever seen a factory knuckle break?

wayoflife · Mar 13, 2014

HDGasser said:
And that's what i was lookin for... 35 spline compared to 30's, any other differences in the R&P?

The ring and pinion is the same, just don't go any bigger than 5.13 in a 44 and you should be okay. The factory locker is just weak and will break and that's another reason I would recommend an ARB. That and that it'll take 35 spline shafts.

Also thinking of a trail 60 in the rear with a PR housing... I think this with a fully done up pr44 with Reid knuckles should be adequate enough for me.

Personally, I wouldn't wasted your money on orange knuckles. I can guarantee you that you will still hit your tie-rod and you'd be better off just getting an HD tie-rod if you don't already have one. Your factory knuckles will do just fine but of course, that's just me.

Northridge4x4 · Mar 13, 2014

HDGasser said:
I'm in a bit of a pickle.. To many options!! Hahaha

Here's my deal, I've got an 07 unlimited rubicon, 4" lift and 37's. With no plans to get any bigger.

So I'm ready to pull the trigger on some axles from dynatrac but my dilemma is that a front pr60 is outta my budget and I'm affraid the Hemi under the hood may eventually hurt a pr44... I like to wheel it and challenge myself but by no means do I beat on it.... Hell it's my wife's DD so I gotta be nice to it!!

Right now I've got a fully built factory 44 that is prolly bent cause I'm about to do a 2nd set of seals on it this weekend. Trussed, gusset'd, Dynatrac BJ's, rcv axles and 5:13's. Are the 100% PR44's any stronger than the pr housing with the factory internals?

Or am just lying to myself and need to save for a pr60 for the front?

Definetly wanna do a pr60 in the rear if it's the same track width or a trail 60. Do anyone know if there is an e locker option for the rear 60's?

Sorry for all the questions and thank you for your time, just wanna make sure if I'm gonna be spending north of $10k on axles I know what I'm getting myself into.

We have a few packages for these axles that will give you a good idea on cost,

You could do it a few ways,

One would be the Rubicon Pro rock 44 Unlimited package we have. It allows you to swap your elocker gears and internals into a new housing. Our package is for this is below. It comes with ball joints and RCV's Its in stock and could ship today. It is still the Unlimited version and also has the 1/2" wall tubes.

http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/d...rorock-44-unlimited-package-jk44-1x3010-g-kit

The other is our ProRock Unlimited package that has RCV's, ARB Locker, Ball Joints, and your choice of gears. The package is below, and we have these built and shipped typically in 72 Hours.

http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/dynatrac-prorock-44-unlimited-special-package-pkg

As for the rear we also have these in a bundle package in stock and can have them built and shipped in the same time frame.

http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/dynatrac-jk-2007-13-semi-float-pro-rock-60-rear-axle

As far as going 40" and above we also have a Front ProRock 60 and Rear Prorock 80 in stock that could ship today

HDGasser · Mar 13, 2014

OverlanderJK said:
Why do you need Reid knuckles? Have you ever seen a factory knuckle break?

Surprisingly yes I have... On the flip side is I've seen ALOT more people beat on stock ones too with no problems.

wayoflife said:
Personally, I wouldn't wasted your money on orange knuckles. I can guarantee you that you will still hit your tie-rod and you'd be better off just getting an HD tie-rod if you don't already have one. Your factory knuckles will do just fine but of course, that's just me.

See above...

Just figured if I was gonna do a pr44 I might as well do it all? Who's law is it... If something can go wrong it will go wrong? Or someshit like that lol.

And yes, I already got an HD synergy tie rod.

Stalter08Rubi · Mar 13, 2014

HDGasser said:
Surprisingly yes I have... On the flip side is I've seen ALOT more people beat on stock ones too with no problems.

See above...

Just figured if I was gonna do a pr44 I might as well do it all? Who's law is it... If something can go wrong it will go wrong? Or someshit like that lol.

And yes, I already got an HD synergy tie rod.

Murphy's law, "if something can go wrong, it will go wrong"

HDGasser · Mar 13, 2014

Northridge4x4 said:
We have a few packages for these axles that will give you a good idea on cost,

You could do it a few ways,

One would be the Rubicon Pro rock 44 Unlimited package we have. It allows you to swap your elocker gears and internals into a new housing. Our package is for this is below. It comes with ball joints and RCV's Its in stock and could ship today. It is still the Unlimited version and also has the 1/2" wall tubes.

http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/d...rorock-44-unlimited-package-jk44-1x3010-g-kit

The other is our ProRock Unlimited package that has RCV's, ARB Locker, Ball Joints, and your choice of gears. The package is below, and we have these built and shipped typically in 72 Hours.

http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/dynatrac-prorock-44-unlimited-special-package-pkg

As for the rear we also have these in a bundle package in stock and can have them built and shipped in the same time frame.

http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/dynatrac-jk-2007-13-semi-float-pro-rock-60-rear-axle

As far as going 40" and above we also have a Front ProRock 60 and Rear Prorock 80 in stock that could ship today

Trust me if you can look up my IP address you'd see ive been on there comparing allllllll the options you guys got!

Gotta ask too... I know your shipping to me is free, but since Dynatrac is local to me could some $$$ be shaved off if I just pick it up??

Freight of a pr44 & pr60 can't be cheap! Kinda pointless to stick it on a truck just to go 15mins down the freeway. lol

cozdude · Mar 13, 2014

HDGasser said:
Trust me if you can look up my IP address you'd see ive been on there comparing allllllll the options you guys got!

Gotta ask too... I know your shipping to me is free, but since Dynatrac is local to me could some $$$ be shaved off if I just pick it up??

Freight of a pr44 & pr60 can't be cheap! Kinda pointless to stick it on a truck just to go 15mins down the freeway. lol

if you are that close i would call dynatrac directly and get a quote on one straight from them. might be cheaper in the long run and you can get exactly what you want.

wayoflife · Mar 13, 2014

HDGasser said:
Surprisingly yes I have... On the flip side is I've seen ALOT more people beat on stock ones too with no problems.

Is that a fact? I'd like to see it and know how it happened. In the 7+ years that I've owned a JK and run both this forum and JKF and working closely with companies such as EVO, I have yet to see a single one break.

See above...

Just figured if I was gonna do a pr44 I might as well do it all? Who's law is it... If something can go wrong it will go wrong? Or someshit like that lol.

And yes, I already got an HD synergy tie rod.

Well, what can I say, I'm just a mall crawler but it would seem to me that if you're really play so hard that you're breaking a knuckle, you really should be running a ProRock 60. After all, if something can go wrong with a small factory 44 knuckle, who's to say that an orange one with a slightly higher steering arm will make a difference. But hey, what do I know :crazyeyes:

Stalter08Rubi said:
Murphy's law, "if something can go wrong, it will go wrong"

Even if your knuckles are orange? :crazyeyes:

HDGasser · Mar 13, 2014

Stalter08Rubi said:
Murphy's law, "if something can go wrong, it will go wrong"

THATS the guy!

wayoflife · Mar 13, 2014

HDGasser said:
THATS the guy!

LOL!! So, based on what that guy's law says, explain to me how running an orange knuckle that has a slightly higher steering arm but is otherwise exactly the same a stock make a difference?

Northridge4x4 · Mar 13, 2014

HDGasser said:
Trust me if you can look up my IP address you'd see ive been on there comparing allllllll the options you guys got!

Gotta ask too... I know your shipping to me is free, but since Dynatrac is local to me could some $$$ be shaved off if I just pick it up??

Freight of a pr44 & pr60 can't be cheap! Kinda pointless to stick it on a truck just to go 15mins down the freeway. lol

It will save you tax having us ship it.

HDGasser · Mar 13, 2014

wayoflife said:
Is that a fact? I'd like to see it and know how it happened. In the 7+ years that I've owned a JK and run both this forum and JKF and working closely with companies such as EVO, I have yet to see a single one break.

Well, what can I say, I'm just a mall crawler but it would seem to me that if you're really play so hard that you're breaking a knuckle, you really should be running a ProRock 60. After all, if something can go wrong with a small factory 44 knuckle, who's to say that an orange one with a slightly higher steering arm will make a difference. But hey, what do I know :crazyeyes:

Even if your knuckles are orange? :crazyeyes:

Ohh it wasn't me, and believe it or not it happened in Azusa playing in the mud. I don't know who's it was but I remember talking to some people that watched it happend. Lots of stupidity, alcohol, and a very high rate of speed and some rocky air time apparently.

Not normal wheeling, even your mall crawling!

Didn't know that the pretty orange knuckles were just higher steering... Thought they were beefier all around. If that's the case then forget it, $500 more to spend on hookers and blow.

HDGasser · Mar 13, 2014

wayoflife said:
LOL!! So, based on what that guy's law says, explain to me how running an orange knuckle that has a slightly higher steering arm but is otherwise exactly the same a stock make a difference?

Cause I'm the guy that if I didn't have bad luck, I wouldn't have ANY luck!

Plus orange is my favorite color. :yup:

Serg5000 · Mar 13, 2014

wayoflife said:
LOL!! So, based on what that guy's law says, explain to me how running an orange knuckle that has a slightly higher steering arm but is otherwise exactly the same a stock make a difference?

Hmmmm, they are orange?

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